For a relatively small island, Bali probably has the most complete variety of international fare restaurants compared to other islands. But where does one go for quality Indonesian dining, where one can indulge in a beautiful and indigenous atmosphere, savor delicious authentic dishes, and have decent wines? Instead of restaurants, Hotel Tugu in Canggu has spectacular theatrical dining venues with different themes that transport guests from one era of Indonesia's past to another. There must have been around 30 different kinds of dining experiences that I was told of by the staff - but the few below are the ones that really stick. One of my favorites was the atmospheric Warong Tugu. Set in a rustic open kitchen inspired by the daily lifestyle of Javanese and Balinese between the 15th to the 19th century, Waroeng Tugu is an open air hut with old tiled roof, featuring a row of beautiful antique statues and old wooden benches. The simplicity of the Waroeng Tugu is where it's so beautiful, not only in terms of its ambience, but in the whole experience of feasting with simple dining wares, hand-rolled corn cigarettes just like in the old days, an old ice grinder from the turn of last century, and many more. The dishes here are prepared by Ibu Soelastri, who has cooked at home since she was a small girl, and at Tugu for a number of presidents of Indonesia. The Waroeng Tugu has no menu—instead, Ibu goes to the market, picks the ingredients she likes, and then she makes up to eight different dishes in Waroeng Tugu's traditional open kitchen. In the morning, Iboe Soelastri gives cooking classes here, where she brings her guests with her to the market.
As dusk fell, I was taken to Tugu's deserted sandy beach, guided by a row of torches and red flower petals. A table for two, with flowers and candles atop, sat alone facing the Indian Ocean, with nothing around except for a seafood grill and a champagne stand. No hawkers, no beachwalkers, no other tables, and no noise except for the crashing waves. I was told, "We usually set only one table alone on the beach – but tonight is special, we put these thousands of flower petals because one of our guests will be proposing," say no more.
Getting hungry from the fragrant smell coming out of the kitchen, I decided I just wanted to choose from the comprehensive a la carte menu since it was getting late, and to sit at one of the lovely tables, with a view onto the gardens. However the staff wanted to show me one more venue, so I followed. I was glad I did – I was taken to the most extravagant dining room I have ever seen. A whole Chinese temple from the year 1706, stood there in a beautiful red-walled room, complete with its black and gold carvings, black pillars, and a striking black carved wooden roof. Decorated with beautiful giant black and white drawings of the old kings of Bali and lit by rows of red candles. I decided I would save this room for the next time I'm celebrating with a special someone.
Walking back to my previously chosen table with a view to the ocean, I was tempted to peak into another dining room that was set up for two other guests. This room, the Bale Puputan, has beautiful 19th century Balinese antiques and artwork, and a beautiful marble table from that period. Celebrating Bali of the 19th century, two special dining experiences are available here – the first one being the Balinese Rajadom dining, and the second one the Grand Rijsttaffel. a special dining created by the plantation masters during the colonial Dutch era, where they entertained guests with dishes using the exotic spices of the country. Bear in mind that the Grand Rijsttaffel dining is served by a parade of 13 waiters wearing traditional costumes, even if you are only a party of two. Noticing my bedazzled expression, I was further explained that the Grand Rijsttaffel was ‘normal'. Their most special dining experience, called the Tugudomis mind blowing. The Tugudom dining experience tells the story of how the royal entourage of the Majapahit Kingdom, including the soldiers, the ox carriages, the elephants, etc, arrived in Bali when they were defeated in Java, where they were warmly welcomed by the Balinese. The dishes presented here are researched to the times of the Majapahit era, and include royal dishes as well as cuisine prepared by the humble villagers to welcome the entourage. The Tugudom theatrical dining can include up to an entourage of 50 people, bringing the whole Majapahit entourage to present time – again, even if you are only a party of two.
Classical Balinese dance can be arranged with any dinner at Tugu. Ibu Cenik, one of the oldest and most flamboyant dancers of Bali, also dances on the beautiful stage upon request or on special schedule.I will say no more, except that dining at Tugu is indeed an experience of a lifetime.
Hotel Tugu Bali, Canggu (+62-361) 731 701
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