Minggu, 26 April 2009

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Tulamben - Bali's Diving Site

Tulamben is Bali's most famous diving location. Located on the North East coast of Bali, Tulamben receives very plankton-rich waters from the major oceanic currents in the area. These plankton-rich waters have created one of the most diverse regions on the planet. That is why, every year, a multitude of international photographers and videographers visit the area to dive their favorite dive sites and to explore for some new ones.

Underwater, the Tulamben diving area is awesome. However, the natural beauty of the area above the surface really lends to Tulamben popularity. Tulamben is situated under the foot of Mt Agung which offers some superb scenic views for when you are out of the water. The local Balinese culture is in full swing and offers a real edge to your time in the area.

The main attraction is the wreck of the USS Liberty, famous for the amazing variety of marine life found there. This is a must-dive site in Bali , and a photographers' paradise. Other sites include a great drop-off, a shallow coral garden, and a deep coral reef. Tulamben is the best place to night dive in Bali and, being on the East coast, you can take an unforgettable sunrise dive.

The Diving:

Kubu Reef

These two dive sites lie between the wreck and the drop off. I usually started at the drop off (have the Diving Helpers Club carry the tanks there) and went down to 25m to see the cleaning station just slightly to the left of the drop off on the sand. Then I would head towards the Paradise Reef. If you are good on air, you can leisurely dive the whole stretch, otherwise you just get out, before you run out of air and walk back. Most of the dive is shallow (3m to 15m). Specially the River is a great place to do so called muck diving and find rare animals such as the harlequin and the robust ghost pipefish, several species of eels and even the mimic octopus, boxer crabs or the harlequin shrimp! If you are lucky as we were, you might also see an eagle ray or a couple black tip reef sharks, a big barracuda or Spanish mackerel! Also very good for night dives.

US Liberty shipwreck
The Liberty was originally a cargo steamer built in New Jersey, USA in the early 20th century. She was pressed into service during W.W.II and armed with guns fore and aft. On 11th January 1942 the ship was cruising off the Lombok coast when she was torpedoed by a Japanese submarine causing major damage to the hull, but not sinking. The US Navy decided to try and salvage her and subsequently sent two destroyers to tow her to Bali. However, she was taking on too much water and it was decided to beach her at Tulamben.

In 1963 Bali's highest volcano, Gunung Agung, erupted causing major damage and loss of life on the island. This eruption also managed to push USAT Liberty to her final resting place 40 meters off shore, in between 9 and 28 meters of water.

Liberty is now Bali's most popular dive, encrusted with many different varieties of soft and hard coral and a very large concentration of fish and other marine life. A must do dive.

A resident school of bigeye jacks often lurks here-unafraid of divers, you can approach them and enter the school to have them whirl around you. The ship is also a haven for emperors, parrotfish,batfish and sweetlips. Look for anemones and nudibranchs in the coral-rich areas.

Drop Off
about 500 m to the east of the wreck and close to the temple, the underwater wall drops to a depth of 60m (the top is around 3 to 5 m), sometimes there is a slight current. There are three coral covered lava spurs that reach down to 50 or 60m but usually you dive at the one that lies to the west of the temple. The other two reefs around the corner are also worth exploring. On the first spur at 30m is a huge Muricella gorgonian fan, it must be over 2m in diameter! Just beautiful!

Batu Kelebit
This deep coral site is is just round the corner from the Tulamben Drop Off. The coral starts from about 25m, down to past 70m. Lots of big Triggerfish, Sweet lips, Midnight Snapper and colorful Clownfish & Angelfish. Big pelagics & Sharks. Access just a few minutes by traditional boat from Tulamben it self. This long stretch of coast is all diveable so you can take multiple dives along here.

A beautful garden of Mengwi

The people of Mengwi in Bali enjoy the distinction of possessing a living heritage site and ritual venue called Taman Ayun.

Bali, famous as "the island of the Gods," is also an island of a thousand temples. Nearly everywhere in Bali, we find Hindu holy structures, ranging from small temples for family worship to the huge ones used by the entire population of Bali, known as khayangan jagat.

Temple architecture varies as well, from the simplest to the most complex. One of the most monumental temples in Bali is Pura Taman Ayun, which has just this year been nominated as a world cultural heritage site.

After a 30-minute drive northwest from Denpasar, I arrived in Mengwi District, part of Badung Regency.

The name Taman Ayun literally means "beautiful garden". This temple was originally a temple for the royal house of the Kingdom of Mengwi, but over time its function expanded until it became a place of worship for the entire populace of Mengwi District. The history of the temple is closely tied to the founding of the Kingdom of Mengwi in 1627. One of the oldest temples in Bali, it was built in 1634 CE on the orders of Mengwi's first king, I Gusti Agung Ngurah Made Agung.

Pura Taman Ayun reminds me of the gili garden architecture we find in the buildings remaining from the former kingdoms of Bali. Gili, meaning "small island," is a concept in traditional Balinese architecture that combines elements of water and land in a certain composition. In Hindu belief, water is a blessing of life from the god Wisnu, so it's quite common in Bali to find holy temple complexes full of water elements.

The Taman Ayun complex consists of four long rectangles. To enter the area, we have to cross a 20-meter pond over a single bridge at the south of the temple. This bridge connects the outer part of the complex, which includes the parking area, with the first inner section, called jaba sisi. Apart from its aesthetic function, the pond also provides irrigation for many agricultural areas in Mengwi District. And for the local community, the pond is also a place to relax and fish.

Pura Taman Ayun is divided into three spaces: jaba sisi, jaba tengah, and jeroan. The further in we go, the higher the elevation. This is a cosmological symbol: from the lowest space, inhabited by humans, to a holier space where the gods reside, and finally to the holiest section, the realm of God Almighty. To the right of the entry gate is a wantilan structure.

Here we also find a fountain, and a small temple called Pura Luhuring Purnama. After passing through jaba sisi, we enter the second area, called jaba tengah. Within this area are Pura Dalem Bekak and Bale Pengubengan on the east and Bale Kulkul on the west.

Tourists are not allowed to enter the jeroan section, but the management of Pura Taman Ayun has provided an alternative by making a path that goes around the area, enabling people to peek into the temple from outside the fence.

Worshiping within the jeroan pura area.Pura Taman Ayun is in active use as a site for rituals and cultural events; it plays an essential role in community life and therefore needs to be preserved. After being destroyed by a massive earthquake in 1917, the temple was gradually restored to its original form, starting in 1950. The pride of Mengwi's people, the temple is now being used again as a place of worship. And as one of Bali's important tourism destinations, it is also equipped with all the necessary support infrastructure – an extensive parking area, a rest area, toilets, tour guides, and security personnel. All of this makes Pura Taman Ayun not only an important cultural heritage site but also a fascinating place to visit.

Les Village Where Fish Capturing Coexists with Conserving the Environment

At first glance, Les, a coastal village in Tejakula district, Buleleng regency in the north of Bali, doesn't look very special compared with the other nearby fishing villages. But when you approach its beaches, you find fishponds and aquariums full of ornamental tropical fish.
Gathering ornamental fish has been a livelihood for the fishermen here for over 30 years. At first, Les's fishermen caught ornamental fish using nets. Later demand for tropical fish rose, and pressure from fish "traders" forced them to switch to using potassium cyanide, which they call potas ("potash") or bius ("dope").

The use of "potash" significantly increased their ability to capture fish. With just a small can of potash mixed with water in a plastic bottle, fishermen from Les could bring home a big pail full of ornamental fish; they weren't too bothered by the high mortality rate caused by the potash. But that was thirty years ago, when the underwater environment was still pristine and fish populations were high.

Environment-friendly way of catching fish.Gradually, the use of potash polluted the seas near the village of Les. Each application of potash is enough to kill one to two square meters of coral reef in two to three months; imagine the impact of an average of 30 people spraying potash every day, over many years. It's no wonder that by the early part of this decade, the coral reefs near Les were in terrible condition; nearly 70% of the reefs were dead and destroyed.

In early 2000, several people from Yayasan Bahtera Nusantara (Archipelago Maritime Foundation) and the NGO Perkumpulan Telapak visited Les village. Armed with previous experience in tackling destructive fishing in the Philippines, they offered an environmentally-friendly alternative method for capturing fish. The use of barrier nets and small scoop nets aided by a pail was the green solution to replace the use of potash. At first, only two local fishermen, Nyoman Triada and Nengah Arsana, were willing to try this new method.

Nyoman Triada had been a committed potash user; he'd even spent some time behind bars after being caught using potash. By persevering, they mastered the technique of capturing ornamental fish using barrier nets and scoop nets. Their fears that their catches would be smaller using nets turned out to be misplaced; in fact, the fish they caught were of far higher quality, with a much lower mortality rate. And they were able to sell their fish more easily, because the traders also benefited from the higher survival rates.

Seeing the example of their success, other fishermen in Les gradually started switching to using nets. By 2002, all the fishermen in Les had deliberately quit using potash and switched to using nets. In that same year, an ornamental fish catchers group was established in Les village – the Mina Bhakti Soansari fishermen's collective. And a ban on the use of potash was implemented through a village ordinance, with strict penalties for violators.

In their efforts to preserve the environment, the fishermen of Les did not simply switch to a "greener" method; they also restricted the size of the catches. When potash was used, mortality rates were sometimes as high as 80%; with the net method, fewer than 5% of the captured fish die.

The fishermen of Les have now learned to monitor and record the fish population, so they can limit the catch in line with the size of the catch area. They have also learned how to market and export the ornamental fish they catch; eventually, with funding assistance from the UNDP's Global Environment Facility – Small Grant Program (GEF – SGP), the Les village fishermen's group was able to start its own ornamental fish export business.

After so many years of damage to the coral reefs, efforts began in 2003 to rehabilitate them; the method chosen was coral reef transplantation. The Mina Bhakti Soansari fishermen's group has been the spearhead of this rehabilitation movement. With around 90 active members, the group replants and maintains the coral reefs around the village.

More than five years ago, the fishermen of Les succeeded in rehabilitating the coral reefs in their area. Now they are offering the rehabilitated coral reef area as a diving tourism attraction; they call it the "coral farm dive site". No fish catching is allowed in the rehabilitation area. Tourists who visit get an extraordinary coral reef diving experience, as well as the chance to adopt a reef as a form of their concern and to support the continuing rehabilitation effort.

Scenes from the coral farm.

The fishermen of Les village have proven that utilization of natural resources need not conflict with conservation. Environmentally-friendly fish capturing coexists with use of the sea as a tourist attraction, and both bring prosperity to the local fishermen.

Les village is around 100 km north of Denpasar; on the way there, you pass through the Ubud area, with splendid views of terraced rice fields.

Selasa, 07 April 2009

A Spa with Heart


It is true that there are hundreds of spas in Bali to choose from with an incredible array of wellbeing and beauty treatments, but there are no spas quite like Spa Hati (Jl. Raya Andong, Peliatan Ubud, T: 0361 977 576), which uses most of its revenue from their treatments to fund the Bali Hati School in Mas, Ubud, as well as other community programs. Spa Hati, a subsidiary of Bali Hati, opened in 1999 with the purpose of supporting Bali Hati's projects.

The spa consists of seven tastefully designed treatment rooms that can accommodate nine people. Each room has its own private garden, with access to an outdoor saltwater jacuzzi and steam room which is included with any massage.

With nine types of treatments on offer, guests can choose from a sixty minute 'Blissful Journey' massage or 'Rapture' – a ninety minute treatment that includes a rejuvenating body scrub and two well trained masseuses who will massage away any remnants of stress.

There are twenty local staff members who support Spa Hati, all of whom have undergone intensive training. In addition, the staff participate in monthly refresher training to update their skills and get support on how they can keep their energy up for their clients and themselves. All of the staff receive health insurance, 10% of the money earned from the spa treatments and tips. The nice thing about Spa Hati is that the staff receive a salary, which means there is no pressure to do countless clients in order to earn a decent living.

Ketut Nick Darsana, the Spa manager believes that it is very important for the staff to be treated well, because if they are content then this will directly effect how well they can give massages and other treatments to their customers. Nick contends that one's energy is passed on to the client, so it is crucial to have a positive attitude at all times.

Spa Hati began training some of their therapists in 2004 in the Esalen massage technique, which originated in California, USA. After the massage technicians have completed 100 massages, they receive a certificate in Esalen massage. This is truly a special and intimate massage which the therapist executes by gently moving your body in a kind of dance – gracefully stretching your legs and arms.

After expenses, Spa Hati utilizes all of their funds to support a variety of community projects. Their current and ongoing project is to expand Bali Hati School in Mas, to incorporate grades all the way through high school. A scholarship program began in 1997 to support students at all levels of schooling, with more than 1,100 students who have been sponsored to date.

Spa Hati is just one aspect of Bali Hati, which has a mission to "create compassionate, self sustaining and effective community based programs that identify and meet the needs of Balinese people." With this goal in mind, they began an innovative health program in response to the Kuta bombing tragedy in October 2002.

Their mobile health clinic operates throughout Bali providing much needed dental treatment for children, as well as health education, gynaecological and medical services for villagers. Over 6,000 people have benefited from this initiative.

Other programs include an Education program which provides English and computer training for local people at a reduced cost. A certain percentage is allocated for free tuition for those who can't afford to pay. They have also provided food assistance and livestock to poor families, orphanage renovations and self-sustaining community projects just to name a few. In addition, Bali Hati supports Senang Hati which has had an office at the foundation's headquarters in Ubud since 1999.

In 2005 Bali Hati was recognized by Bali as the 'Best Social Organization in Bali' and as the 'Most Outstanding Social Organization' in all of Indonesia. They continue to strive for the betterment of communities throughout Bali – an organization with a pure heart.

For more information about how you can help the Bali Hati Foundation, visit their website at: www.balihati.org or email: balihati@indo.net.id

Donations can be made to one of the following accounts:

Dollar Account:
Yayasan Bali Hati
Bank Central Asia, Capem Ubud, Bali
Account No: 135-0-195048
Swift Code: CENA IDJA

Rupiah Account:
Yayasan Bali Hati
Bank Central Asia, Capem Ubud, Bali
Account No: 135-0-195030

Indochine


These restaurants are indeed very scarce and so when the beep of the email inbox heralded the arrival of the opening of Indochine (The Mansion, Sayan, Ubud T: 0361 972 616) and its French influenced Indochinese menu I was up the hill to Ubud in a flash, knife and fork at the ready.

Here, ladies and gentleman, if you will excuse the cliché, is something completely different.

So different in fact that it warrants a good couple of hours researching exactly what Indochine is and more importantly where it is. Historically the entire Southeast Asian region drew cultural inspiration from China and India with the predominant influence stemming from the Indian region. Vietnam (owing to its proximity to China) reverses this theory and is unique in its direct Chinese influence with a smaller degree of input from the Indian contingent. The former colonial French Indochina comprised of Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam whilst the rest of the mainland Southeast Asia is now commonly included in the wider Indochinese definition encompassing the Malay Peninsula, Myanmar (formerly Burma), Thailand and Singapore.

Of course all of this sounds a little distant in the 21st century considering the formation of French Indochina took place in October 1887. The federation lasted for 58 years until the close of the Second World War, by which time the Japanese had seized control of the French Indochina territories and only released their grip when forced to surrender in 1945. What is interesting is that the Japanese had kept the French bureaucracy and leadership throughout their governing of the Second French Indochina Campaign, cuisine and all.

Although Indonesia is not mentioned in any reference to Indochine one cannot deny the influences of Indian and Chinese food on the archipelago. A menu such as that available at Indochine is perfectly in tune with local Balinese produce and tropical climate, with an emphasis on light, spicy and wholly absorbing dishes that remain faithful to original Vietnamese recipes but are presented with a modern day twist.

Executive Chef David Cailleba is no stranger to classical French fine dining having been a long-term fixture in many luxury resorts around the Asia Pacific. His particular culinary expertise is matched perfectly with Vietnamese/Australian restaurateur (now Food and Beverage Director of Indochine) Anna Kellett who has transported the winning Indochine formula to Bali from her successful cooking school of the same name in Sydney.

The fusion of Vietnamese and French cuisine is complimented by the eclectic collection of art and design objects that take pride of place in the spacious and very stately dining room. Blink twice and you might be forgiven for thinking that you'd stumbled onto the set of a tropical remake of 'Gosford Park'.

Vietnamese lacquer paintings adorn the walls whilst a central glass display case houses vintage headdresses originally from members of the Balinese royalty. The dining room opens out onto an al fresco dining area and terrace swimming pool with a neighbouring gazebo tucked away to the right – perfect for a cool summer evening in the hilly climes of Ubud. The soft candlelight and warm, welcoming ambience make the colonial style grand dining room seem almost surreal, a contradiction of itself as the style is very formal but the mood very relaxing. Dress shoes and a collar would not look out of place here.

The wait staff has a nervous energy to them - understandable given the fact that the restaurant has just thrown its doors open - and are a rather rigid service ensemble. I'm frightened that their demeanour might not bode well when it comes to discretion (they outwardly exhibited every telltale sign of the dreaded 'over service' syndrome) but in reality hovered at the perfect distance from the table, occasionally swooping in with a refill of breads and a top up of water but never demanding your attention in the process. Discretion, thankfully, is definitely part of the vocabulary at Indochine and it is a blessed relief not to have to endure a protracted three-way dinner conversation with your waiter and dining companion.

Now onto the reason we're here in the first place - the food.

The Oeufs de Caille (quail eggs) are the choice from the entrée selection. First boiled then gently fried to give a crispy exterior and served with a drizzled chili sauce, the presentation is point perfect but the portion a little small for a man with a ravenous appetite. I regret not heading in the direction of the French Duck Liver entrée as the accompanying grape and red apple sauce sounded so intriguing and besides, I wanted to see what Vietnamese influence might find it's way onto a very French Foie Gras dish. Equally as tempting is the Tasmanian Salmon with choufleur and Daikon (mild flavoured East Asian giant white radish) served Tataki style. I note these two for further visits and move onto the second entrée and the best dish that is to find its way to our table this evening – the Goi Cuon. The presentation of this dish is deceptive. From the outset it looks very simple, a translucent crepe of rice paper filled with fresh herbs, prawns and chicken and served with a Vietnamese chili sauce, but to taste there is clearly a lot going on behind the scenes.

There are no less than 18 different ingredients in the Goi Cuon that, collectively, manage not to overpower the palate but instead are light, extremely refreshing and would not look at all out of place on a wellness retreat menu. The invigorating and lively flavours are typical of Vietnamese cuisine and are carried over to the main course – the Pan Seared South Sea Snapper.

I'm not the biggest fan of a risotto at the best of times, it's a dish that should, by rights, be easy to knock out on demand, a hundred portions at a time yet almost every risotto I've had in Bali has been butchered mercilessly by chefs who do not take the time to nurture the cooking process correctly and inevitably cook the life out of the rice and/or end up using inferior ingredients in the stock resulting in what could be best described as a savoury rice pudding.No such worries with the main course tonight, the risotto is ever so slightly well cooked but is saved by the stunningly clear preserved lemon and basil stock which relieves the Arborio grains of their heaviness and elevates the dish back into the realms of 'light and bright' Vietnam. The seared snapper was never going to be a miraculous discovery but is happy to occupy the same plate as the sweet pea sauce, is prepared well and best of all it's complimented perfectly by the risotto.

Other main courses on the menu include a nod towards the Bebek Betutu (traditional Balinese slow roasted spiced duck) with the Divine Mansion Duck (the jury is still out on just how a duck achieves divinity) and the Bo Kho (slow cooked beef in Vietnamese spices) both dishes served with fragrant turmeric infused yellow rice. Dessert is a hit and miss affair; the imported chocolate in the Gateau au Chocolat à la Mansion (the name's a mouthful) is most certainly not Valhorna and it should be at this standard of dining.

With a little more focus in the dessert department Indochine will be a very worthy addition to Ubud's upper echelons of dining but in truth it's pretty much already there. It's hard to be too critical of a few cocoa beans gone astray when you look at the prices being charged. Indochine could so easily have fallen into the overpricing trap that many of its peers haplessly indulge in but most courses hesitate to topple the twenty US$ mark and a meal for two including a small but cost conscious wine selection (predominantly new world offerings from Australia and Chile) won't exceed a hundred dollars. As our host admits "we wanted to have a fine dining ambience without implying ridiculously high prices on guests".

And for that rationale alone Indochine has our vote. The cuisine on offer makes it a dining destination in its own very original right.

Indochine is open from 6pm daily.

Journeys to Wellness

For many of us the appeal of taking workshops and weeklong courses lies in the power of the short term intensive to create the discipline for longer-term action. I doubt that many opt for an intensive experience with the express intention of never rolling out their yoga mat again. A healthy attitude to health has to include the reality that is our life, and the act of self-acceptance is as important as the activity we undertake. So embrace your entire being and enjoy our guide to the many paths of wellness on offer in and around Bali.

Desa Seni (Canggu, T: 0361 844 6393) has grown into one of the island’s most popular and pleasant "health providers" with regular classes and workshops that appeal to residents and visitors alike. Recently Desa Seni hosted Saffire Bouchelion with the Joy of Nia, a body-mind-emotion-spirit fitness practice, and a philosophical workshop on the eight limbs of yoga by Kerry Clarke of the UK.

Coming up in April is "Hatha Yoga" that will include an introduction to a Brazilian form of meditation as well as intense individual yogic practises that will enable each participant to work through their own areas of resistance.

Check out the Desa Seni website (www.desaseni.com) for the latest news. Aside from the workshops and regular classes Desa Seni host gatherings for special events with great food and music, two things that are invaluable in a well balanced life.

Bikram Yoga has recently arrived in Bali and the new studio is located in the Istana Kuta Galleria (www.bikramyogajakarta.com).

Practitioners of Bikram Yoga maintain that it is not just an exercise: it has the ability to increase physical strength, willpower, determination, as well as faith, concentration, and patience. The Bali based director of the new studio, Mony Suriany is a certified instructor who encourages the participation of beginners in this system of yoga poses practiced in a heated room in order to warm the body and work deep into the muscles. With daily classes in the morning and early evening it can be easy to work Bikram Hot Yoga into any lifestyle.

At www.balispirit.com a world of workshops can be found from Laughing Yoga to Surfing Yoga and Gaia Tree Yoga training. There really is an endless choice of yoga retreats to tantalize. But if tantra is your thing checkout Gaia Oasis. (www.gaia-oasis.com). Situated in beautiful Tejakula with two properties to choose from Gaia Oasis has a regular program of Yoga and Balinese dancing as well as visiting seminar and workshop leaders that include Tantra, Wisdom of the Dolphins in April, and Aura Soma Journey of Mediation in May.

Iyan Yaspriyana of Escape the World Retreats (www.zen-bali.com) has been teaching in Bali for many years and has developed a professional method of hosting and teaching yoga retreats that make him one of the most popular Bali–based workshop leaders. In his Escape the World yoga retreats anyone desiring to touch base with the self, practice daily meditation and yoga will also enjoy spa treatments and an unusual Balinese vacation. By providing well-balanced meals, a dedicated time for the soul and activities discovering other aspects of Balinese culture Iyan has created the ideal escape that connects the spirit with the body and the mind through internal and external direction and impulse.

And if you feel that the world is too full of distractions why not join a journey into a balanced life aboard Alikai Queen of the Seas, a traditional Indonesia sailing boat. (www.balancecruise.com). With daily yoga, macrobiotic food and daily fitness routines there is no better place to be at one than out on the beautiful Indian Ocean.

16 unique spa treatments in bali

KRIYA, Grand Hyatt
(Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 234) A journey of self discovery and recovery is aided by expert staff and superbly designed interiors. Enter the Kriya Spa and surrender to harmony, purity, energy and bliss. Shirodara on the wooden table connects body, mind and spirit with an ancient power source that defies description: elemental, essential, elation.

DaLa
(Jl Legian, T: 0361 755 728) At DaLa, with its beautiful décor and gentle ambience, you enter bliss. Submit to rose petals in the DaLa Essential treatment, get fresh with the Tutti Fruity, or high on High Tea and enjoy the expert touch of the highly trained therapists. Highly recommended is the exquisite Empress Facial.

JIWA, Conrad Resort & Spa
(Tanjung Benoa, T: 0361 778 788) The Ocean Flow massage is an express ticket to bliss and as part of the Sea Sensations Spa Package that includes a masque of sea mineral and clay and an exfoliating body scrub, this is the most enchanting way to renew your body in the natural element of water.

Hanging Gardens
(Ubud, T: 0361 982 700) Here we have to give away two secrets; first the Herbal Revival because it has genuine restorative powers and second the Angel Bliss Spa that is designed specifically for children and introduces them to the calming techniques of Balinese therapy. Tranquillity for the whole family...Just perfect.

Heaven&Earth, The Mansion
(Jl Penestanan, Ubud, T: 0361 972 616) Mr Ari is the secret ingredient here, with his European training, his intimate understanding of Balinese healing and his innovative approach. Each massage and every blend of oil has been designed by Mr Ari to provide maximum health benefit while maintaining the indulgence and pleasure of Heaven and Earth.

Tugu
(Jl Batu Bolong, T: 0361 731 701)
One thousand and one exotic spices, herbs and flowers create the unique treatments of the Waroeng Djamoe Spa and truly you could spend 1001 nights here on a journey of peaceful indulgence. Even in one day you can be transformed through the guidance of therapists to emerge serene and satisfied.

MAYA, Maya Ubud
(Jl Gunung Sari, T: 0361 977 888) Here at the wonderful Maya there are specific treatments that take care of the masculine spirit. After a day of physical activity, hiking or rafting, the "refined man" treatment works out kinks and stresses; encourages muscle relaxation and stretching and includes an invigorating herbal bath that re-boots the system!

Kamandalu
(Jl Tegallalang, Ubud, T: 0361 975 825) The creative essential oil combinations, such as vetiver and lavender and technical expertise of the therapists means that any massage taken here in this very Balinese styled resort is magnificent. Try the Royal Kamandalu or Pampering Kamandalu for a day of corporeal and surreal pleasure.

Natura
(Ubud, T: 0361 978 666) Natura envelops guests in lush natural surroundings. With spa treatments that include coconut skin cleansing, herbal clay body masks, and warm spice treatments you can embrace a truly natural experience. Try skin cleansing followed by a traditional Balinese massage to bring the balance of nature into your life.

Taman Merah
(Jl Raya Petitenget, T: 0361 736 656) Go volcanic at the sophisticated day spa Taman Merah with clay body wraps and enjoy the sensation of full body massages on deep leather beds. Treatments can be combined to create indulgent rituals that use Taman Merah's own creative approach and signature products.

PRANA, The Villas
(Jl Kunti, T: 0361 730 840) Exotic Prana offers total immersion, here you can indulge in treatments designed to elevate your entire being. Recently added are the unique Shankara products that use high quality ingredients sourced from the East and the West. Prana and Shankara create, according to one customer, "the best facial in the world."

Samaya
(Jl Laksmana, T: 0361 731 149) Its lovely beachside location in Seminyak provides a perfect post spa chill-out spot, plan a day escape and choose from the Samaya "Day in Paradise" packages of Eternal Bliss and Journey of Joy. Enjoy the Samaya sensation and leave the world behind in a fragrant mist of bliss.

YHI, Melia Bali
(Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 510)
The delightful staff are the best reason to visit the Yhi Spa, however to indulge in the Yhi Hydrating Oasis or Love Duet, with exquisitely perfumed flower bath beside your significant other, is to submit yourself to an ocean of pleasure. A luxurious expression of physical, mental and spiritual wellbeing.

Theta
(Jl Kartika Plaza, T: 0361 755 726)
At Theta it is the raw ingredients that make this spa so special, as well as the fresh space, the gorgeous views and the chill-out ambience. A total devotee of honey I recommend the Borneo Honey treatment. At Theta there are just so many favourites...Try them all!

REI Wellness Spa
(Jl. Griya Anyar Br. Kajeng, Pemogan, Denpasar, T: 0813 3773 2610)
All treatments are one hour long. Try the Pure Harmony, which offers to relieve the stresses and strains of modern life, the Orange Sensation has an orange body scrub and mask while the Sensory revival rids the body of built up toxins and looks like a good option for any recently desk bound person!

Bodyworks
(Jl Laksmana, T: 0361 733 317)
Bodyworks has recently added Hair Glazing to its menu. A new concept from L'Oreal, hair glazing creates a protective and glossy coat and can be used on any hair type or colour. The glaze seals the hair and will resist the affects of shampooing and heating for up to three months.

The Inside Juice on Jamu

April, in the world of seasons, is time for spring; a time of renewal and of new life so it is fitting that we present our readers with not just the best of Bali's spas but the best spa treatments, foods, herbal health drinks and retreats to bring you wellbeing and joy.

It's a five hundred year old industry with a 12% share of the pharmacy industry that is expected to expand from its base of 3,000 vendors nationwide in Indonesia to 200 times its current size by 2010. Most of its vendors ride bicycles and it is usually sold in the early morning to people seeking relief from coughs and colds, from sluggish systems and from matters requiring discretion.

It is Jamu, that unique herbal remedy that cures everything. Originally created from herbs and spices by traditional doctors called 'Dukun' or 'Tabib' and now consumed by nearly 80% of the population, Jamu is to Indonesia what milk was to the post-second world war era of Europe.

And yet there's more to it as Jamu is not just a medicine, people believe it can be an elixir of youth, an attractor of wealth and popularity. It is used to cure the body of unpleasant smells and reduce body fat. Jamus are inexpensive and readily available making them the medicine of choice for most Indonesians but that doesn't explain their popularity with the more affluent, or even the new trend of foreigners getting into the Jamu.

The benefits of Jamu lie in their relative lack of toxicity; they contain no alcohol or narcotics; they are not synthetic and are made fresh or from powder daily. Jamu does not sit for years on a dusty shelf, nor does it fail safety guidelines in other countries to end up on the shelves of developing countries' pharmacies.

On a quest for understanding I made a trip to Penny Williams, executive chef at Alila Manggis then visited Irma, Ibi Nengah and Ibu Soelastrii at The Tugu Bali (Jl Batu Bolong, T: 0361 731 701) for a crash course in Jamu preparation and experimentation.

Penny believes it is time for modern society to sit up and take note of what has been occurring around them, and take advantage of the magical health-giving Jamu. She says, 'When I create a new dish for the menu at Seasalt I take time to consider the ingredients that I will be using and their effect on the person who will be enjoying it. For me it is very important to achieve not only culinary pleasure but physical pleasure too. I relish in the thought that my guests will feel something more than just 'being full' at the end of their meal.'

Irma confirms this use as she explains that while Jamu is a medicinal drink the use of the Jamu herbs in cooking is prevalent in Indonesian traditional cooking, and while most people drink their Jamu young children have their Jamu herbs sewn into their clothing.

At the Tugu Hotel I was taken to a special area of preparation where I was introduced to the two Jamu makers, one of whom, Ibu Nengah, is Balinese and is learning the craft from Ibu Soelastri, who is Javanese by birth. Between them they select and prepare the herbs and roots for my 'drink' as I pick my way through the dried roots and brightly coloured spices on display.

I had described wanting to feel stronger, and was given a bright yellow drink that was, despite my trepidation, very tasty. Juma Kunir Asem is a little sweet and a little salty, it is slightly thick but also refreshing.

It is made form tamarind and tumeric, which gives it the colour, and uses sugar, salt and lime that give the sharp but sweet flavour. Jamu can be male and female specific or a general tonic and usually is consumed in the morning and afternoon. Ibu Soelastri gave me some recipes to make at home but wouldn't divulge any secrets that would assist me in attracting greater wealth, more handsome husbands or obedient children. So I'll make do with inner strength for now and see where that gets me!

Jamu is a positive and gentle way to achieve better health from nature's fresh ingredients and the innate wisdom of ancient traditions. So next time you feel a tickle in the throat, or about of fatigue instead of reaching for the pharmaceuticals put a bit of Jamu jiwa in your life.

Hatten Wines Bali’s Surprise Vinery



Hidden away in a Sanur sidestreet is a lowkey sign that simply says “Hatten Wines.” Enter through the portals if you dare and you will find the production centre for Bali’s best homegrown wine products.


The day I visited the truck was in bringing in a few tonnes of grapes from the island’s dry grape producing areas of the north. A dozen boys in red teeshirts were standing around unloading the grapes into the grape cleaner that separates the seeds and stems from the fruit. We watched as they squished their way down to the next process - one of many that end up, a few weeks later as very drinkable reds, whites and roses. In the next room sixteen tall stainless steel vats held gallons of alcoholic beverages in various stages of fermentation.

IB Rai Budarsa the owner, comes from a family of vintners and it was his family who started producing the first commercial quantities of Bali Brem back in the sixties when it was a very popular drink with tourists. Times were more innocent and certainly less sophisticated back then and for many visitors this was the taste of Bali. For some it probably still is. I have many fond memories of happy nights sitting around sipping on the sweet and syrupy beverages.

Now tastes have become more sophisticated and Hatten Wines was created in 1994 to develop better products. Techniques too have developed and wine production is in the hands of Vincent Despat who studied in France and spent some twelve years wine making in Western Australia.

The winery produces a range of drinking and sparkling wines not to mention the marvelous red and white aperitif Pinots, known as Pino Red and Pinot White - which go marvelously well with a selection of good cheeses or as a dessert wine. Their award winning Alexandria is a semi sweet made with grapes from the Muscat family and is another good aperitif wine.

One of the most interesting things about Bali grapes is that there is no down time in the growing season as there is in cooler climates. The varieties used thrive in hot climates and produce grapes continuously in 120 day cycles. This means there are no vintage years, but it also means every year is good and the quality is consistent.

The winery has a capacity of bottling 3000 bottles a day. Grapes are grown on the Hatten Wines Estate in North Bali and local farmers supply more grapes from their own crops. Most of the white grapes are specialty grown, using natural pesticides so they are an almost organic grape while many of the more available red varieties are bought in from outside farms, providing a great source of income for the local farmers.

Anyone wishing to avail themselves of free tastings and a winery tour can go to the Cellar Door in Sanur which is open Monday to Saturday from 8.30am-6pm. Needless to say, you can also buy wine there either in single bottles or in quantity.
Phone: +62 361 286 298.

Surf Blockheads

Last month I opened my mouth and firmly planted both feet tonsil-deep down my throat when I said that the wet season had been and gone in Bali. Here we are now charging our way through March as the skies have all but blackened out any Bali sunshine and the days alternate between overcast and apocalyptic.


Swell wise matters have been entirely different with a handful of mates trooping off in the direction of Balian during the West hitting swell of last week only to return two days later with reports of triple overhead conditions on the river mouths and the word 'heavy' focusing in nearly every mention of the epic conditions up there.

Not having the time to scoot much further than Canggu I was sorely disappointed at the two-foot onshore slop that greeted me during the same westerly swell. About to give up and go home I paid a flying visit down the road to good old spot X and the place was pumping, absolutely ridiculous waves barrelling their nuts off at the mid tide. So good was it (and only four other guys on it) that I barely had the board out of the bag before I was in the drink for a three-hour session. My hastiness was duly rewarded when back on land I discovered that I'd failed to remove wallet from my short's pocket and now had a sodden mass of Rupiah notes and several dysfunctional credit cards to my name…

Still, it was the best surf I had all month and the most expensive of the year thus far.

As the wind re-positioned itself to offshore conditions up on the East I made off in the direction of four foot Keramas past a stupidly crowded Serangan and overlooked what has probably been the wave of the month up at Sanur Secrets (Padang Galak to everyone else). Here's a spot that rarely fires but the rains have obviously aligned the sandbanks to perfection setting up an awe-inspiring A-frame. Needless to say this didn't take long to attract the attention of the marauding Sanur contingent and a smattering of Japanese tourists.

Reports in from various sources suggest that some backhanded, below-belt behaviour has cursed not only Padang Galak but also Hyatt Reef and Keramas itself. Turns out the Japanese have been up to their old tricks paying off the Sanur crew to block waves and totally screwing up everyone else's session. I saw it last year at Shipwrecks and it bugs the shit out of me. Guys, if you can't get the wave off your own back then don't paddle out, local crew, give it up – it's shameful behaviour and totally against the nature of surfing. You might be lining your pockets with some extra coin but frankly your reps are in the dust with these kinds of stunts.

Still, there's not much you can do about it really, just another nail in the coffin of Bali's surfing reputation but in a way it has a positive impact inspiring other folk to move away from the 'name' spots and search out a few shacks of their own, far off the grid.

More rain came and went and Canggu started to show some temporary form with local rippers pulling huge punts off the lips on the left in front of Echo Beach. The main peak didn't really light up thanks to the swell direction and transitive sands that have shifted all over the place on the beach. Last time I checked (yesterday morning) the banks were still all over the shop and will probably remain the same until the off shores really start to kick in, hopefully soon.


Sick move of the month has to go to Rusty's Marlon Gerber for his suicidal air at Keramas, quite whether the lad made the landing is another matter entirely but it's possibly the most stylish rail grab I've ever seen.

Checking back in on the shore breaks on the East coast I came across two little rippers tearing chunks out of the innocent Galak lips. Honestly, if I could've surfed like this at age nine then maybe I wouldn't have such a hard time hauling my fat ass into the line-up nowadays. Or is the snorkel and mask the secret weapons these groms are packing nowadays..?

It's a trip to the Gilis on the cards for this month's getaway and some recon down the reefs of Nusa Dua for me. Gotta make the most of the offshore East before the lefts start doing their thing on the West coast…

Enjoy it guys, slag the blockheads if you catch them pulling sly moves and keep smiling – there's still good vibes to be found in the Bali waves, they're just getting few and far between.

Bali: The Music Man

In 1929, the life of a young American composer was changed forever after listening to a rare gramophone recording of some Balinese Gamelan music. From that moment, he lived for the day when he could set foot on the fabled island from where this unique music originated. Two years later, Colin McPhee realised his dream; he moved to Bali, built a house and proceeded to make an intense study of the complex metallic music that had captivated his heart.

Scouring the Island's palaces, temples and remote villages, he developed an intimate knowledge of all the musical genres of Bali, documenting them on paper in Western notation. Tape recorders had not yet been invented. It was an experience that would prove to be magically rewarding; later engagingly described in his book, 'A House in Bali'. Back in New York, it took McPhee twenty-five years of labour to produce a book from his fieldwork, a musicological masterpiece called 'Music of Bali'. Long out of print, it still remains the leading reference on Balinese music.

Today, much of the lesser-known Balinese gamelan groups, instruments and sounds are in danger of disappearing forever. Australian musicologist, Richard Kaal, is a modern-day Colin McPhee, who has made it his mission to preserve and keep alive the island's ancient traditional music.

A professional musician, singer and songwriter for over thirty-five years, Richard Kaal has a background in classical music. During his travels, he stopped off in Bali – his first visit was as a surfer in 1970 – instantly falling in love with the people, the culture and the music. "In Bali you are naturally accepted and respected as a musician; quite the opposite from the West. Here it is part of the culture, which is how it should be." In 2005, he finally moved to the island with his wife, Rebecca, and their two daughters, and built a house in a breathtaking setting, fifteen kilometres up the slopes of Mt Batukaru near the village of Sarinbuana, in the Tabanan regency.

Richard's passion for recording music drew his attention to the fact that there are over one thousand different genres of musical ensembles in Bali that most people never get to hear. Looking around, he observed "a lot of old people were playing music but not many young people were learning". An experienced recordist with his own recording studio, Richard decided to capture some of the vanishing Gamelan sounds from villages, and start a library of Balinese music. In the course of his research, he purchased a lot of CDs of traditional music, and realised that the quality of the recordings was "pretty average". So, after helping set up a foundation – Yayasan 'Bali Kharisma' – with Nyoman Sumartana, a friend from the neighbouring village of Megati, he started work on his project. "It's not an easy task to get a Balinese group into a studio, so I made a mobile facility and went out to the villages". Richard has surprised everyone with some quite incredible recordings, producing thirty-five CDs of music in less than two years. "I want to continue recording because I'm aware that I've only just scratched the surface. The plan is to make the library available through the Internet to universities around the world. The CDs will be accompanied by a book, presenting some of the stories behind the music and the villagers who play it. These old-time fables are a truly fascinating part of the culture, but are also in great danger of getting lost and forgotten".

One group that Richard has recorded is a 'Gambang' group from Dlod Pangkung in Sukawati, "they are all old men in their seventies and eighties, and they play from memory from way back; there is nobody in the village learning the Gambang, so within twenty years this group could be gone". The problem is that the younger members of the village, attracted by a modern lifestyle, are no longer interested in carrying on the tradition. Richard is passionate about raising the status of the Balinese musician so that the kids will want to get back into it, and the Yayasan is therefore in need of support, assistance and funding. He considers it, "vital, on a global scale, for Balinese music to continue. Music sends a vibration around the planet; it is universal and an essential part of every culture".

Another project supported by the Yayasan is the translation and documentation of the traditional village singing; styles known as 'Pupuh', 'Kakawin', 'Kidung', 'Geguritan', sung at ceremonies in old dialects and translated simultaneously into modern Balinese or Indonesian. The songs tell stories from the Hindu epics, the Ramayana and the Mahabaharata; tales of intrigue and conflict among kings, demons, gods and sages. Pak Nyoman Ardhana Riasa from Bajera in Tabanan is translating a lot of these stories into books, which will be complemented by Richard's recordings in the form of lesson-time cassettes or CDs for easy learning. The books and recordings will be available for the Balinese to purchase at affordable prices through the Yayasan.

Richard is aware that it's hard for Westerners to actually listen to traditional Balinese music. He laughs, "It has been described as a truck full of chimes running into an alleyway full of garbage bins", and explains "in an Angklung or a Gamelan there is more than one melody going on. It depends on where you are standing as to which one you hear; in fact, you can walk around the orchestra and hear different music. His latest love is fusion music, an initiative that has been made possible by fellow-musician, Ketut Suardana, a successful silversmith from Celuk, whose love of Balinese music has led him to form Yayasan 'Suara Dana'. He has also bought the instruments for two complete 'Salonding' ensembles, a 'Gambang' ensemble, a 'Gender Wayang' and a rare 'Saron Luang' ensemble.

In collaboration with Suardana and Made Subandi, who Richard describes as a "musical genius", together with a group of local villagers and family members, Richard has been writing Western songs, and fusing the melodies with Balinese music. "Subandi and I are a good team because I bring the Western influence into the music while he maintains the traditional sounds". The salonding ensemble includes a huge metallaphone or 'jegog', which is like a bass. Then there is the tiny little 'njong-njong', producing high tingly notes, while the bigger njong-njong plays the elaboration – the amazing traditional sound of Bali's music. The Music Man uses the jegog to create bass lines that could almost be Western, adding guitar, saxophone, tabla (Indian drums) and the Balinese drums known as 'kendang'. At every rehearsal they seem to pop out another song! Richard believes, "it will be a good way to introduce Westerners to certain types of Balinese music, and will hopefully give us a chance to tour these groups overseas at some stage". The Yayasan is taking a small 'Gender' group from Celuk, to Queensland Australia, to promote Bali at this year's Wintermoon Festival.
In their effort to share and promote the performing arts of Bali, Richard and his wife Rebecca, together with accomplished musician, Jay Bishoff, are currently developing 'Music Lovers Retreats', inviting others to experience firsthand the spirit of Balinese music through performances, workshops, jam sessions, compositions with local musicians and combined performances. Recording facilities will be available and guests will be accommodated at the couple's mountain retreat on the slopes of Mt Batukaru.
www.musikaal.com

April adventure

Flatmates, love them or hate them there's no escaping that when you live with someone you're not sharing a bed with then there's gonna be times when differences of opinion can't be reconciled with a lusty workout on the king size.

Now don't get me wrong, I dearly love my long suffering buddy who inhabits the hobbit's room next door to my cave but when it comes to the monthly chore of bill paying there's times when I could throttle the little bastard for his tightfistedness.

Many months ago when his time of the month would come around I toyed with the idea of manufacturing a fuss but decided on a far more practical manner in which to seek revenge – I'd subject him to joining me on life endangering jaunts, all in the name of creative journalism.

So far I've managed to half drown him on a beginners surf trip to intermediates territory, almost induced a coronary for the lad hiking up in the hills but the latest coup has been by far the most rewarding, a good old fashioned rafting exercise up in the hills of Karangasem, with him upfront in the dinghy, breaking my fall on the heavy drops over the rapids.

In truth we both had the times of our lives descending full throttle down the spinning grade three-plus waters of Telaga Waja. Picked up from Seminyak HQ at eight in the morning we winged our way up into the breathtaking natural heartlands of Karangasem with four other rafting compatriots. After an hour on the road we found ourselves at base camp, suited and booted in the pre-requisite safety gear, helmets and life jackets, introduced to our guide Panca, given a quick lesson and armed with a paddle each for battle purposes.

Ten minutes later and we're charging downstream trying our hardest to synchronise paddle strokes and follow instructions from Panca about what direction we should be headed. I'm already looking for my first opportunity to satisfy April's retribution on flatty and I don't have to wait long until we're approaching a three-metre drop over the falls and I shuffle the unfortunate soul into pole position, plant both my feet on his shoulders and brace for impact. Fortunately for him we bounce back from our splashdown, all in one piece with the raft intact and Panca screaming his lungs out, it's a quick adrenalin fix and we take charge of the paddles bouncing off further down river humming the Duelling Banjos theme from Deliverance.

A Java Kingfisher breezes past with breakfast dangling from its beak as we cruise past some imposing steep banks, gigantic waterfalls and ancient hanging trees. The night before had seen a large storm front move in over the Karangasem hills destroying trees in its path and littering this particular stretch of the river with debris. Time to take evasive action as we duck and glide under one felled tree with millimetres to spare between tree trunk and cranium only to swing round the bend to be confronted by a large, partly submerged log blocking the river.

Now any normal approach would be to slow down and negotiate a path around the blockage but being red-blooded boys we decided a far less defeatist approach would be to charge the obstacle at full thrust, make contact with the log then jump forward and pivot the raft over our temporary see-saw, thus clearing the hurdle in one smooth motion.

Unfortunately for us this would require dexterity, composure and expert timing, none of which were factored into our genetic make-up early on this Saturday morning after Friday night's beer tasting spree in town…

Smacking into the barricade I'm up and over the prow of the raft as though my life depended on it, too keenly as it turned out as I missed the front seat completely and end up making a solo flight down the next section of the river on my buttocks, to the soundtrack of raucous laughter from the inhabitants of the temporarily grounded dinghy.

Flatmate one, drenched, humiliated journalist nil…

Having lost ground to the other rafts that hurtled past we sped up and headed towards the second and final drop, the dam.

A four-metre plunge over the weir is by far the highlight of the trip with both feet this time implanted into flatty's kidneys as we charged the freefall into misty oblivion with a collective audience of five other rafts cheering our ungracious descent.

I'm permitted a temporary station in charge of the raft, promptly smacking us into a huge rock before running us aground on a submerged boulder, cue more humiliation – I'm starting to think that this revenge tactic of mine towards flatmate might just be generating large amounts of bad karma in my direction…

Relieved of my command and sent back below deck for oar duty Panca steers us heroically into port and we set foot on dry land some two hours after setting sail.
Voyage completed all that's left to do is ascend the 165 steps up to the restaurant and an emotional reunion with a cold beer.

I'm half way through Bintang number two and eying up the buffet spread as flatty huffs and puffs his way into view, alternately clutching at his chest and kidneys.

Perhaps there's some justice to this monthly revenge business after all…

Rafting trip to Telaga Waja orgainsed by Sobek Adventures. T: (0361) 287 059.

Jazz Cafe Ubud

Located on the verdant slopes of South Central Bali, Ubud is well known as the island's historical center for music and art. A place where cultural tourism thrives and where many go to escape the hectic streets of Seminyak and Kuta; from traditional gamelan orchestras to cozy bars and their lounge soundtracks, music is a popular aspect of Ubud. And located on Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, is a live music venue that is dedicated to a special musical niche. Well known to both residents and tourists alike since its inception 10 years ago, the Jazz Café is an Ubud favorite that presents live Jazz (and it's many derivatives) 5 nights a week in a very relaxed and loungy atmosphere.

Jazz Café, "The Original Jazz Venue," is the brainchild of 44 year-old Balinese owner and musician, Agung Wiryawan, who opened the popular spot with purely personal intentions. Not ones motivated by profit, but just for the music and to have space where he and his friends could jam acoustically to their hearts content. Certainly what one might expect from a music-loving musician who grew up in a family of traditional Balinese players and dancers. Self-taught, but unable to read music, Agung learned to play guitar by emulating the likes of his six-string American folk idols, Bob Dylan and Neil Young, by listening to their cassette recordings passed down from his brother. Honing his skills throughout the early 90's in towns from Candidasa to Sanur, he had to take a break after an accident severed his tendons and while heartbroken and frustrated, he learned open tuning slide guitar techniques that saved his sanity. And then in December 1996, he opened Jazz Café and virtually through simple word of mouth, the venue has enjoyed enormous popularity since day one.

The flyer for Jazz Café is a simple black and white design that advertises "unique cuisine, creative cocktails, great music" with a list of famous Jazz artists' names listed on faded grey backdrop. Herbie Hancock, Thelonius Monk, Nina Simone, Charlie Parker, Duke Ellington, Benny Goodman, and scores of others. And the concept of Jazz Café is as simple as the flyer itself. Live jazz presented in a classy, yet relaxed, environment for the enjoyment of locals, ex-pats, and tourists alike, and also while providing excellent original cuisine choices worthy of a proper supper club, exotic cocktails, and wines from every major region.

The food at Jazz Café is primarily Asian with a generous selection of starters, mains, pizza, pasta and desserts that range reasonably from Rp. 22,000 to 73,000. Begin with a first course of Balinese Tuna Fish Salad or Crisp Tofu Tempura with Roasted Peanut Soy Dressing. And then for a main course, choose from sumptuous options such as Seared Tuna Teriyaki, Coconut Coated Chicken Breast with Yellow Curry, or Thai Crispy Vegetable Stir Fry with Toasted Cashews and Shitake Mushrooms. Finish up the meal with homemade desserts that range from Wicked Chocolate Truffle Cake with Coconut Cream to Ginger and Orange Crème Brulee. If only stopping by for drinks and a show, Jazz Café's cocktails are as adventurous as their music concepts and with names that share the theme: The Blues Colada, Mango Dixie, Java Jive, Swell Ella, or Cool Louis. Their signature drink, however, is the lethal Mega-Margarita, which comes in several varieties and served in very large glasses.

Jazz Café's design is quite perfectly conducive to lounging and listening. The main room consists of a traditionally shaped Balinese alang-alang roof that is set a bit lower so as to provide a more ambient feel. The small stage is opposite the bar and has numerous table settings that face it a la traditional Jazz bar arrangement. Past the main floor is an elevated area where black and white upholstered cushions surround 4 low tables with an unobstructed view of the stage. And then beyond the room is an outdoor area that consists of a lush garden with elevated bale areas and more low tables and cushions. On any given weekend night, the entire seating areas full and those unfortunate to be without a reservation are forced to enjoy from their bar seats, or even stand as has often been the case.

Musicians from such disparate countries as America, Denmark, and Japan have all stopped by Jazz Café to perform or engage in a jam session, but regularly scheduled bands are presented from Tuesday through Saturday from 8 – 10:30 pm (bar remains open late after performances). Tuesdays feature the soprano saxophone talents of Joe Rosenburg (USA); Wednesdays are controlled by the "Buena Terra" band and their Latin vibe; Thursdays presents the jazzy "For Free Band;" Fridays are for the acoustic Latin sounds of "Compass;" and Saturdays highlight the talents of owner, Agung's own band, "Bali Blues Band" and their popular repertoire of original and cover numbers. And by June 2006, Jazz Café will also be featuring monthly special band events. Even on Sundays, Mondays, and before and after the featured band, the quality music selection doesn't quit. Customers can always hear Django Reinhardt's guitar work, Billie Holiday's sultry crooning, George Benson's slick scat, or Miles Davis' Be-Bop via the handpicked compilations that Agung puts together for the venue's hi-fi.

Whether a fusion, blues, swing, Latin, or classic fan of the genre, Jazz Café offers a very unique and enjoyable experience where one can dine, lounge, and listen to great music in a relaxed atmosphere while enjoying the aesthetic and cultural delights that Ubud has to offer.

Jazz Café also offers a free pick up service from hotels around Ubud

Jazz Café
Jl. Sukma 2 Tebesya, Ubud – Bali
TEL: (0361) 976 594
jazzcafe@telkom.net


Comprised of 4 levels and situated on a lush ravine overlooking the sacred Campuan River in Ubud, Murni's Warung is an institution that has been serving the best in traditional Balinese cuisine for over 3 decades. Besides its food, décor, and locale, the warung is also well known for its proprietor, Ni Wayan Murni, a matronly Ubud local whose congeniality is known to all who have walked through the hand-carved doors of her restaurant over the years. From the time she sold a sarong to Mick Jagger in 60's Sanur to her current involvement with the Royal Pitamaha Gamelan in which she is a member, Ibu Murni's life is a fascinating one. She took time out from her busy Warung duties to speak to Hello Bali about the good old days.

Ubud Origins
I am an Ubud original. I was born in Penestanan, about 5 minutes walk from [Murni's Warung] and was raised in Campuan. My grandparents are from about 100 meters from [Murni's Warung] and I've lived here all my life. Ubud at the time was, of course, very different, very rural. There was no expansion bridge across the river, all the roads were made of dirt, and there was no electricity. Most Balinese from this area at the time, including my family, were very, very poor and didn't have much to eat. Around 1952 or 53, when I was 6, I remember going to the river to collect rocks to sell on the road. We used to have to carry water in terra cotta pots from the big spring just below where my grandmother lived because there was no plumbing then. Most of my family worked from this river, gathering what ever they could from rocks to sand and selling it on the road. Or they would work in the rice paddies where they would work during the harvest season that was only every 6 months and not like today where there are sometimes 3 harvests a year. I would also go to the rice paddies to help my family- my grandparent's, my father, to harvest the rice and afterwards we would sometimes catch rice paddy eels or snails to eat. All this work would keep us busy for about 2 months at a time. At other times I would go to the old Ubud market with my mother to sell different types of leaves, vegetables, rice, or anything else that was used or eaten everyday.

The Warung
In 1974, I started Murni's Warung and it was one of the very first restaurants in Ubud. There was no running water or electricity. We used oil lamps for light and cooking kerosene for the burners. There were still very, very few tourists in Ubud at the time and they usually stayed at the Campuan Hotel, which was one of the first hotels in Ubud. At the time, I wasn't really planning on opening a restaurant. My husband and I used to go to a warung near the center of Ubud where they cooked food with kerosene burners. That's when I decided to open a warung in this area because it took so long to walk to central Ubud to get some food and was very inconvenient. So then I started to sell some very Balinese dishes at our warung. We only had one bamboo table and two chairs at the time, but people started to come and within one month I had expanded to 4 tables! There were many interesting things that passed in front of the warung that made it quite an attraction. People going to the rice paddies, ducks that crossed at 5 a.m. every morning and then cross again in the afternoon on their way back home, cows, pigs, people going to or returning from the market carrying [produce] on their heads. The tourists would come to my warung and just sit in front and watch the procession of happenings. It was like dinner and a show! We also had our regular customers who lived in the area and tourists, who if they stayed for only one week, would come to the warung once a day.

At that time, I only knew about Indonesian and Balinese food. I would go shopping at the market everyday because there was no refrigeration except for an icebox and I would do all the cooking myself, as well. Every month we would have more and more tourists coming and started to have more tables and chairs for the warung. In the 80's we had our first big expansion during this good time when many tourists were coming after the new bridge was built and buses started arriving.

Most of the food we serve is very traditional Balinese cuisine. Smoked duck and smoked chicken, for example. I also created a dish called "Murni's Fish" which is sautéed Tengiri served with vegetables and a special sauce that won an award in a Nusa Dua school in the 80's. This is still quite popular and is always on the menu. I also cook a few Western dishes whose family recipes were given to me by friends. We serve Indonesian and Balinese desserts as well, such as Black Rice Pudding that we make fresh from scratch everyday. I also have a shop here that I was running over 30 years ago, even before the warung, where we sell jewelry and antique and new textiles. And I have started a small beautiful villa called Villa Kunang-Kunang (Fireflies) that is in Ponggang, Ubud, about 12 km north of Campuan.

Tradition and Changes
Even until today, I would say that our cultural life in Ubud is still very strong and everyone here, including myself, is very involved with the community. But after the year 2000, I would say that Ubud really changed in terms of development. There were more buildings, more shops, more restaurants, more hotels, the roads are very busy and there is much more traffic here. I think that during the past few years, it has gotten out of control and I am hoping that we stop and really think about it so we don't overbuild. It is not easy and I hope that the local government will maintain the traditional ways of building in Ubud. That is why I keep [Murni's Warung] like it was in the old days. This is a difficult task these days, but I try to preserve these traditional methods with the workers and the way we cook here. For example, instead of using a blender or food processor, we use a mortar and pestle to prepare ingredients. This takes more time, but I prefer using this traditional Balinese way of cooking because I believe the food tastes better this way. It is also the reason we use more people to work here. I think it's very important to give people jobs. Two of the staff have been working with the restaurant since we opened for business! At the time they were about 9 years old and now they have grandchildren. They are like family. And a few of the original regular guests that I've known for 35 or 40 years still come here even though some are in their 80's.

Within the family and the community of Ubud, we really try to retain the traditional ways of living. Like my grandchildren, for example, I try and show them how we care and how we are involved in what we do in the community. A member of the Ubud royal family passed away recently and all the members of this community really helped each other [for the ceremony]. We are very much tied together here and spend more than 30% of our time doing things for the people of Ubud, supporting each other and trying to make all the generations understand and stay strong. For the 32 years that Murni's Warung has been open, we have always had strong ties here.

Murni's Warung
Campuan – Ubud – Bali
Phone: (0361) 975 233
Email : murni@murnis.com
www.murnis.com

Traffic, Trauma and Terrorism

There's an old scientific phrase coined by one of these names we forget when we leave the science block at school, which says 'everything tends to chaos in the long term'.

What, you may ask, has that got to do with being on holiday on Bali? Everything, of course, but more precisely on the subject of traffic and parking!

I have a particular and increasing irritation with the complete lack of ability (or is it interest?) in the management of traffic in Bali. It is simply terrible and it seems to be getting worse.

At this point in the recovery process of Bali tourism, we are welcoming only about 50% of the "pre-bomb" tourist volume to the island, which in itself is sad, but the streets are still crowded, the parking chaotic and the traffic jams frequent. What will happen when we get back to 'normal' or, heaven forbid, even succeed in welcoming a lot more visitors?

The answer: it will be a mess. So why worry, just be patient like the millions of people who commute in Jakarta and other big cities every day, you may say. But I strongly beg to differ.

The total enjoyment of a holiday is predicated on the principals of comfort, convenience and relaxation, none of which is associated with poor traffic! Who wants to sit in traffic when you could already be at the beach, the bird park or the bar? Who wants to even bother going to Uluwatu or Ubud or even across town to Seminyak if you face horrendous traffic jams? Frankly no-one- and this means that Bali tourism will eventually become regionalized – you stay in the area you want to enjoy and don't venture much further. In fact this has already begun to happen as people lose their hope that the traffic will be improved. This is sad, there's just too much to see on Bali to have this restriction.

We simply must not allow this to happen and we have to start NOW to have a fully integrated system of transportation, or Bali, like Jakarta, Bangkok and many other cities around the world will become virtually unlivable just because of traffic.

What to do? The answers, as usual, lie all in front of us but need strong courageous, visionary management from the local government to make it happen. Here are my ideas:

First: create secure, well managed parking areas in convenient places. Many of these exist but are entirely ignored – and certainly not secure or managed (eg. next to Ace Hardware in Kuta!) These should be on the outskirts of Kuta, Legian, Nusa Dua, Seminyak, Sanur and Ubud.

Second: ban all parking in vital roads especially Jl. Kuta Legian and the Kuta foreshore. No excuses, no 'waiting', no motorcycles, nothing – just clean empty streets.

Third: introduce real public transportation which allows people to hop on and off along all major routes, at cheap prices and frequent regular schedules until late at night. (This is how Bali used to function with 'Demos' just 15 years ago!)

Fourth: start to control private car and motorcycle ownership by registering them – yes again- locally. Singapore has the right idea (even though we love to hate them!) with the CEO system (Certificate of Entitlement). A small island simply can't allow the luxury of one car/one person even if they are the rich owners of huge luxury villas!

Fifth: Control the size and routes of trucks and buses. It is a nightmare trying to get around the narrow village roads behind the enormous, overloaded belching monster trucks and equally unsuitable mammoth tourist buses. This can be done now with the right regulation – and enforcement.

Sixth: Let's also understand that motorcycles are not somehow excluded from the same rules! The proliferation of nasty buzzing creatures also has to be limited and controlled – and please – behave! Sitting on a motorcycle does not exempt you from the rules of society and the traffic regulations. Yes Bali expats that includes you!

And I can go on! But let's at least get started with the basics. Bali is first and foremost a cultural tourism destination and needs peace, tranquility and calm at its core. To achieve this we must preserve the streets from the utter chaos they are currently heading towards.

Nevertheless, please do not interpret this as an excuse to just hand out traffic fines at twice the speed and value without first implementing the above steps. That is not the answer. What this will also do is send a message to all who want to damage Bali, the terrorists and the haphazard developers (who I put in the same bracket) and this is : we are in control, we manage the peace and security of our streets, we create a visible and calm environment. So watch out for Bali because we are watching you!

Happy – I hope – traveling!

Litle know Ubud

Visitors who return to Ubud after some years' absence are astonished to find wide, paved roads, gutters on tiled sidewalks, architect-designed shops with plate-glass windows, halogen lighting and air-conditioning. The prices can be very modern as well, but the Ubud shopkeepers remain expert bargainers, retaining a sense of humour and the willingness to make a sale.

When Noel Coward was in Bali in the 1930s, he thought he had got it right with his doggerel verse. But he got it wrong. Its culture is what has kept Ubud as the top tourist destination in Bali. And Ubud is like a national museum, with artifacts, crafts and artistic objects from across the archipelago, from Aceh to Asmat.

It can be amusing to note the various fads and fashions that sweep the island from time to time. It can be banana trees, or gaily-colored fish as mobiles, dolphins, komodo dragons, or just plain penises. Within weeks all the shops are swamped with the flavor of the month, and then as suddenly they disappear.

The night life is largely devoted to "a dinner and a show". An early dinner and one of the twelve or fifteen performances of the staple Bali repertoire -- gamelan, legong, shadow puppet plays (wayang kulit), children's dramas, jew's harps concerts, women's gamelans (yes, it has happened!), but best of all are the amazing religious processions to and from the various temples.

Only in the daytime can one witness some of the awesome cremation ceremonies, when the giant bier edifices (bade) are carried through the streets on a bamboo base by hundreds of youths and men, navigating (or even cutting) the overhead wires, accompanied by wild porta-bale gamelans carried by what seems like the entire population.

Probably the best way to enjoy Ubud is to take a seat at one of the wayside warungs (coffee stalls) and just sit and view the passing parade, the never-ending flow in a village throbbing with life and vigor.

A good place to sit and watch is at the eye of the storm, in front of The Palace. On the opposite side of the street really, for there you can watch a lot of people making pigs of themselves. Literally! For here, and next to the big wantilan I think of as Ubud's Opera House, is a warung that serves steaming hot babi guling -- roast suckling pig — every day. There was a place in the middle of Gianyar that was island-famous, but today people come a long way to get the Ubud version.

While you are there, walk up that road a bit and you will find one of the finest art galleries in Ubud, that of the top photographer, Rio Helmi. It is not well-signposted, and is small and new and not yet in the guide books. But in it is recent work that is becoming collector's items. Helmi scans his photographs in extremely high resolution and then prints them, large size on high quality paper, and they are stunningly beautiful.

Murni's Warung is justly famous. It was the first warung in Ubud to cater for the tourist trade, and since then has maintained its standards and trade. Murni has an uncanny eye for beautiful and rare objects and she has established her own signature shop at the top of the hill from the Campuhan bridge (where her warung is located), and next door to the entrance of the Pura Desa(pura dalem). The shop, Kunang-Kunang, is a museum in itself, each object with a history and a provenance. Her textiles are first-rate, as are the old Javanese gold adornments, now rare indeed. Murni loves to travel, and has friends all over the world. Ask for her, but she may well be up the Nile, in Brazil, or at the opera in London.

ubudIn a village as musical as Ubud, it is not surprising that there are dozens of shops selling bamboo chimes of all sizes and tunings. I once rattled over 200 before I found the set that satisfied me. Since the International Conference and Festival of Bamboo held in Ubud in 1995, there has appeared an amazing collection of bamboo didjeridus. And not only bamboo but also wooden ones. The Balinese have even taught their local ants how to eat the insides of tree limbs to make them hollow enough to blow through.
And now drums -- all sorts and sizes -- have appeared. But there are two special music shops where you can buy an extraordinary array of musical instruments, one on either side of the Monkey Forest itself. One is on Monkey Forest Road, up from the main entrance to the Monkey Forest, and the other is through the Monkey Forest and along the road in Nyuh Kuning. Bamboo xylophones, gongs, deep and mysterious, double-hammered bronze ones that keep beating long after struck, flutes, and jew's harps.

And don't ignore the Bakso Boys. They trundle snack foods all day, and invariably are Javanese boys who make the most delicious creations. Martabak (from Java) is my favorite, but they also do all kinds of exotic dishes, as well as fish and meatball noodle soups. Stop and watch their infallible techniques in turning out a good martabak (if you order, and you should, forbid them to use msg or Aji-No-Moto). Their little barrows are remarkably clean and most of the food is cooked under intense heat, and then instantly eaten. In Ubud, bakso food seldom causes Bali Belly.
There was a time, in the early 1970s, when only the existing four hotels in Ubud served bread. There were no bakeries, and the bread came up from Denpasar. Large, sliced white bread with the crusts cut off. In those days, the Balinese didn't understand toast and how to make it and present it. Breakfast toast always arrived cold and limp, not even crusted.n In today's Ubud, one can find excellent French baguettes, bagels, cakes, buns, tarts, all from village bakeries, and most of them are of big city standard. Some restaurants even serve hot-toasted three-decker sandwiches! Today, there are more than one hundred restaurants in and around Ubud.

THE BALINESE IDEA OF THE TRUTH

An anecdote such as the one above is unthinkable among the believers of the Semitic religions – Judaism, Christianity and Islam. Those religions are organised around a few principles or dogmas consistent with each other and legitimised by an absolute prophetic or messianic revelation, transmitted in a relatively simple set of Holy Scriptures. Each tends to view itself as the only holder of the truth, creating a chasm between believers and non-believers, chosen ones and heathens. Tolerance, in this context – and when it exists – is based either on the principle of coexistence and separation, as in Islam: 'To you your own religion, and to me my own religion' (Koran, 109/6); or on the legal mediation of existing differences, as in 'Western' secular tolerance.

Nothing as such exists in Balinese tradition. Instead of being exclusive, tolerance is inclusive. It integrates differences within its own framework. This idea rests on a different conception of the truth. To the Balinese, the absolute truth, although it may exist, is not knowable. This is best formulated in a parable of the text Wrespati Tatwa: "There was a group of blind men," it says, "who wanted to know what an elephant was like. After insisting, they managed to get an opportunity to touch an elephant. What each man touched, though, was a different part of the elephant. The first one touched the head and mistook it for a jar; the second touched the ear, but thought it to be a fan; the third mistook the tusk for a piece of polished wood; the fourth one mistook the trunk for a snake, the fifth the belly for a mountain, the sixth the tail for an eel; and the last one mistook the elephant's foot for a drum. In other words, whatever they touched, they continued on their way not knowing anything of the body of the elephant as well as of its shape, its character nor its reaction, because they were blind." This classical parable, also found in Buddhism, teaches an open brand of scepticism. As human beings, we are blind. Whatever the truth is, and whatever the parts of the truth we experience, we cannot have access to the wholeness of it. We always mistake it for what it is not, hence the variability of the Holy books. Eka wakya, bhinna sruti – the word of God is one, but the scriptures are many.

BALINESE SYNCRETISM

This tolerance finds its primary expression in the structure of Balinese religion itself. This religion is a blending of indigenous and Indian-derived elements, the first providing most of the ritual aspects and the second the philosophical interpretation. Balinese names of gods thus coexist with Indian ones. The Balinese name for deity, hyang, is used in the title of every god: Sang Hyang. As for the All-Encompassing God, the temple priests may call Him by the indigenous name of Sang Hyang Embang (the Void) or Sang Hyang Tuduh (Fate) while the brahmana priest will prefer the Indian-connoted Sang Hyang Parama Siwa or Sang Hyang Wisesa. The Indian side of the tradition is itself the result of the historical blending of Buddhist and Shivaite elements. One of the names given to God is Siwa-Buda. It blends the complementary opposites: Siwa is 'violence and action' while Buddha is 'compassion and inaction'. There is a system of correspondence between the gods of Hindu Shivaism and the Dyana Buddhas of Mahayana Buddhism. The emphasis is on their similarity: 'the essence of Siwa and Buddha is the same; they are different while being one, as the truth cannot be two' (Jinatma kalawan Siwatma tunggal, bhinneka tunggal ika tan ana dharma mangrwa). It is this quotation from the Old-Javanese Sutasoma poem which has given a motto to the Indonesian nation: Bhinneka Tunggal Ika or 'Different But One'.

Such openness finds its paramount expression in the concept of God. Beside the names given above, God may be called by names as varied as Sang Hyang ParamaKawi (the Ultimate Creator), Sang Hyang ParamaSiwa (the Ultimate Siwa), Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa (the Controlling Destiny) etc. The gods are conceived as emanating from the Unknowable Atintya, or from the Sun, Siwa Raditya, of which the individual gods are but the rays, or literally dewas. According to Balinese men of letters, to each shrine, or each element of the world indeed, may thus correspond a new 'god' or a new appellation for the Ultimate One. God in this context is One because He is multiple: wyapi-wyapaka, 'he pervades the pervading', as put in the classical poem Arjuna Wiwaha. He is the Ultimate Void or Sunya, expanding into infinite murti or manifestations from which people, in the classical tradition, would select one as istadewata, or personal god of choice. Such a 'diffusion' of God and the godly is the apparent opposite of the Mediterranean concept where God is the contraction of everything into an Absolute Oneness.

This relativism applies to sociological aspects of religion as well. For all practical purposes, religion in Bali is expected to vary according to three principles: desa (place), kala (time) and patra (circumstances). There are therefore no attempts at religious uniformity. All villages have their own specific traditions which they are particularly proud of. It is the difference between villages – and traditions – which is the condition of their ultimate unity.

Bali Sexy Sushi at Fresh Restaurant

Fresh presents a stylish, open-sided lounge with a chocolate and cream theme, a central bar, cushioned banquettes, and an al fresco timber deck girded by foxtails and shaded by a sail-like canopy. Services include free WiFi, while the cuisine blends healthy Japanese traditions with some unexpected ingredients. "The concept," says Upong, the Balinese manager, owner and chef, "is to offer the best quality and taste at the best price."

The menu is divided into six categories: cones & rolls, hot delights, mini delights, noodles, sashimi & sushi, and combos, with some chef's recommendations thrown in along the way. We started with some mini delights designed to whet the appetite. These yummies included the healthy and moreish 'edamame' – steamed, salted, in-the-pod soya beans, which can be a great precursor to a meal, or a simple accompaniment to an Asahi Beer. Next up was the 'vege prawn sauna' of steamed vegetables and prawn mixed with soyu butter dressing, and we particularly liked the 'black calamari' – rings of baby squid stuffed with spicy butterfish and doused in a sweet soy and oyster dressing. The 'miso soup' was also a good choice, an authentic thin broth enhanced with seaweed and tofu, and we enjoyed the 'baby burger', comprised of mixed patties of beef and tuna served with veggies. Moving on to the hot delights, our favourite dish of all proved to be the prawn or vegetarian dumplings known as 'gyosa', steamed and then grilled to perfection before being served with sesame sauce.

We were in danger of overstuffing ourselves on the mini and hot delights, so we switched to a platter of sushi, comprised of colourful and exquisitely presented 'maguro' (tuna), 'syake' (salmon), and 'gindara' (butterfish). Each variety of fish was notable for its individual and unique texture and taste – sometimes delicate, sometimes rich – and was served with dollops of wasabi for that unique nasal sensation. Finally, it was time to introduce the exotic blends and alternative ingredients of Fresh's famous fusion rolls. The 'hot foie gras' wrapped around a strip of fresh mango topped with hazelnut was an absolute winner, and 'Mr Labalaba' was also delicious, consisting of soft shell crab tempura with avocado, crowned with cooked freshwater eel. Each trim roll was an ornamental art form, pleasing to the eye as well as to the palate, and the taste proved to be even better than the beautiful designer names!

Looking for some sexy sushi? Check out Fresh (Jl Laksmana, Oberoi T: 0361 736 834).

 

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