Minggu, 20 Desember 2009

Pura Luhur Uluwatu - Beautiful and Sacred

One of Bali’s holiest temples is not only majestic but also offers a spectacular and sweeping view of the Indian Ocean and, of course, stunning sunsets.

The Kecak Dance is performed everyday at six in the afternoon at the amphitheater across the Uluwatu Temple.

Arguably the most spectacular Hindu temple on the island of Bali, Pura Luhur Uluwatu is perched majestically about 80 meters above sea level on the edge of a steep cliff at the southern part of Bali.

Pura Luhur Uluwatu, a classic expression of ancient Bali, is regarded as one of the six main temples in Bali.

It is one of the Sad Kahyangan Temple in Bali (six big groups of Bali temples) and is situated in Pecatu Village, the sub-district of South Kuta, Badung Regency, about 25 km south of Denpasar.

Pura means temple while luhur is “something of divine origin”.

Uluwatu is actually two words combined into one; ulu is “land’s end” and watu means “rock” in the island’s old language.

The area is open to public, so it is not uncommon for its parking lot to be inundated by giant buses transporting tourists from all over the world. But they come not only for the temple but also for the stunning panorama and the to-die-for sunsets.

Dedicated to the spirits of the sea, the famous temple is an architectural marvel built with black coral rocks.

Built in the eleventh century during the era of Empu Kuturan, Pura Luhur Uluwatu is one of the oldest temples in Bali.

(Empu is a title denoting the person’s excellence in literature, philosophy and craftsmanship.)

Monkeys roam around the vicinity of the temple.Some five centuries later a priest, Dang Hyang Niraratha, rebuilt it to what you see today.

The temple is so sacred that up to the turn of the 20th century it is said that only the princes of Denpasar were allowed to worship there.

A word of caution: Monkeys, always on the lookout for a free bite, abound here, and warning signs remind visitors about their aggressiveness, which can manifest in their going after your sunglass or camera.

There are two ways to reach the temple; the first is taking the steep path along the cliff, while the second is to enter from the candi bentar (gate), festooned with carvings that have become the landmark of the island.

After going through an open central courtyard, you reach the main gate which has two ganeshas (elephant-headed guardian statues) one on each side.

On the left and right of the main gate are shrines, astasari (for festival offerings), a shrine dedicated to Dang Hyang Nirartha, and several other shrines, called bale tajuk, for spiritual guardians of Nirartha–all of them impressive in their own right.

Another but smaller courtyard is in store before you reach the three-tiered pagoda Meru, which is dedicated to Nirartha who, as legend has it, achieved self-enlightenment here.

Best time to visit the temple is during weekdays and before sunset time. This is when the place is tranquil, allowing you more time to explore what is considered to be one of Bali’s most important temples, and to contemplate.

It is also the time when you can watch dolphins and turtles in the sea.

The downside, of course, is that you will miss the sunset, which is actually just as beautiful elsewhere in Bali.

While you’re there, make time to visit the beach, considered to be one of Bali’s best surfing spots.

Sabtu, 19 Desember 2009

A New Destination to Enjoy in Bali

Le Grande Bali Resort

The karst and limestone region of Pecatu has a new face. Four hundred hectares of this once barren terrain has been converted into the Pecatu Indah Resort, an integrated tourism area that provides pleasant facilities to enjoy this new sensation in Bali. If all goes according to plan, within the next ten years the area will be home to 17 top-name hotels, the largest beach club ever built in Bali, and an 18-hole golf course, which will play host to the Indonesia Open this coming February.

These hot properties are one main selling point of the Pecatu Indah Resort, as well as its stunning ocean views – convincing reasons why the area is being called the “New Kuta Beach”.

In line with the development of this integrated tourism zone, the Pecatu Indah Resort is already open to receive visitors through two of its best properties – Le Grande Bali Resort and Klapa Beach Club.

Le Grande Bali Resort, standing in the heart of the New Kuta Golf Course, offers elegant accommodations including two Presidential Suites, 60 luxurious Executive Suites, and 130 deluxe rooms within its four towers. Le Grande Bali Resort, a member of the Summit Hotels & Resorts group, is also ideal for business gatherings and international-scale MICE events.

As would be expected from a star-class hotel, it has all the standard facilities: 24-hour coffee house, a very relaxed bar, an a body treatment complex including golf, spa and swimming pool.

Le Grande Bali Resort

The General Manager of Le Grande Bali, M. Fadzil Rohani, says “Guests who stay here will enjoy the unique experience of this special resort – green everywhere, an eco-friendly, luxurious sanctuary wrapped in contemporary design.”

To complement the pleasures of hotel guests and other visitors to the Pecatu Indah Resort, the Klapa Beach Club is the perfect choice. This club, facing Dreamland beach, is packed wth activity from dawn till late at night.

Guests can choose from simply relaxing and soaking up the view of the Indian Ocean until sunset at the swimming pool or the natural carved cliff, enjoying Mediterranean or Japanese delicacies, raving at the Ice Bar and the Klapa Klab with select DJs, or crooning in one of the nine exclusive karaoke room.

The Klapa Beach Club, the new icon of the Pecatu area, is the perfect choice for those who want to enjoy a new size of Bali’s maritime beauty.

www.legrandebali.com

The Last Megalithic

Sumba almost untouched modern civilization. Here we can see many things not recorded in the tourist brochures: the tomb stone weighing 70 tons, wild horses running on the savanna, the head of the wife of a dozen tribes, villages perched on the hill, the houses tall coconut trees , as well as the funeral procession with tumbal 150 water buffaloes. The following recordings Fadil Aziz who had twice visited Sumba

Horses pony sandalwood species roamed the grasslands that are found in eastern SumbaWaktu frozen in Sumba. He was sitting 80 miles south of Flores, Indonesia imprisoned by the Sea. If the achievements of civilization in the form dikerucutkan LV bag and the BlackBerry, the Sumba is an isolated place, almost untouched, a counter-thesis "The world is flat" which concluded the Earth is no longer recognize geographical boundaries. It took six months for news of the proclamation could be heard in Sumba, as a general illustration used to describe how desolate island.

A breeze blew gently. The cold air seemed to penetrate the skin even though it was headed in the afternoon. This typical weather in Waikabubak located 600 meters above sea level. It was 18 years ago since I first set foot in the capital of West Sumba. Still wet in the memory of the scene at that time: a jumble of stone tombs, knight on horseback with a machete tucked into his waist, and draped in traditional costumes weaving.

A white stadiums now standing in front of me. Across from the church tower a few grand. A little to the south, there is a market with a row of shophouses in front of him. Deserted avenues snaking here and there. Occasionally angkot (or angdes?) Passed with the spirit kernetnya offer. Waikabubak now more of a small town than a big village. These achievements are positive, although it achieved after nearly
two decades.

Outside sweets such development, Sumba not changed much. Durable cultural purity maintained. Globalization just touching the surface. Stone tombs still standing in place. They seemed to whisper about the ancestral culture and the long procession that gave it birth. Savannah plains that still lay quiet area, complete with beautiful horses that crossed it. While the tops of towering traditional house, poking among the leaves of trees.

Regions in Indonesia are generally included in the Austronesian cultural group. However, over time, this culture eroded by the presence of Hinduism and Buddhism. What makes the special is a culture of Sumba is still relatively authentic. Some of his form is the belief of animism, ancestor worship of spirits, traditional betel nut, the use of houses on stilts, and custom carrying goods as stock tomb.

Sumba communities living in the clan named kabisu. Each clan leaders to establish a village master then down the other villages in the vicinity. In the past, the main village at war with each other. That's why some villages deliberately built on a hill in order to have a better defensive position. Often these villages surrounded by palisades of rock or a cactus thorn. The center of the village is the partly open space filled with stone graves and ancestral worship stones are sacred.

The main belief in Sumba called Marapu. "Religion" is exclusive to Sumba, not found elsewhere. The ritual was led by priests who styled rato. They hold authority in the affairs of the incantation and prayer, and as a mediator with the spirit world. In teaching Marapu, harmonious relationship with the ancestors was in number one in the list of faith harmony.

There are many rato in Sumba. This is not due to a large population, but more because each specialized in one rato ritual. Rato to different funeral rites for the celebration Wula rato Podu (new year in the calendar Marapu). Even in a large ceremonial circuit, there are a number rato each with a different mantra in every babakannya. Rato did not recognize caste, all equal. There was no discrimination between elite or village rato. At most there were only a senior rato, namely those who are elderly. This profession can not seem to ditekuni just anyone, but rather inherited by lineage. Compiling mantra each rato usually obtained from parents.

One is the use of teaching Marapu stone tomb. This tradition is said to be the cultural heritage of the Megalithic era who lived thousands of years ago. Khazanah similar culture can be found elsewhere in the archipelago. In North Sulawesi, for example, we know waruga, the stone grave of Minahasa community version. While in Toraja community to bury the body in the rock cliffs. Differences in Sumba is, the stone used is not limited to the procession of death, but also for the rituals of pilgrimage and holy days. The use of stone as a pillar of this religion that makes Sumba touted as "the living megalith culture".

The uniqueness of the tradition of Sumba stone tomb is in the size of stone used. Stone is generally used large and heavy. Stone weighing tens of tons withdrawn from the mountains to the location of the cemetery, often go through a steep uphill road. Amazingly, all this done completely rely on the aliases manually manpower. No wonder, the procession could spend months or even years. Sometimes just cutting stone for it takes two years. Thousands of men were deployed to pull the stone, while the women prepare the food logistics. A ceremony was held is not cheap by slaughtering hundreds of buffaloes, pigs and chickens, as well as serving the gods. It is said that in ancient times, slaves and slave can participate sacrificed.

A stone tomb is a square containing four to five bodies. Together they also included items such precious fabrics weaving high value, glassware, and so on. Then crushed with a stone coffin-shaped thick plates. Stone weight is usually chosen so that the grave is not easily dismantled thief. To be more safe again, usually placed in the grave yard or in the village area. If any family member who died, the stone and then opened a new body is inserted.

Coastal landscape of West Sumba

Arena rock withdrawal in Sumba is one of the cultural magnet for researchers. Anthropologists from around the world willing to charter a plane for witnessing this rare event. Now, though already done with a more modern way, the procession pull the stone tomb still attract many people.

Pemandangan pesisir Sumba Barat

Mozaic Bali

One of Bali's most celebrated restaurants, Mozaic opens its doors to Chris Salan's private chef's table. The best just keeps getting better...

images courtesy of mozaic

Arguably Bali's finest restaurant just keeps getting better and better, now with the added attraction of a private dining experience, actually in the state of the art Miele kitchen with celebrated chef Chris Salans. Mozaic (Jl Sanggingan, T: 0361 975 768) has always been at the forefront of culinary innovation in Bali thanks to a genuine neglect of the rulebook and a desire to present visitors with cuisine that both challenges and intrigues the palate in equal measures. With such dishes as a salad of cured duck, foie gras terrine, pinot de Bali gelée, baby arugula, red beets and candied mango in a raspberry dressing or the beef tenderloin poached in red wine, crispy seared foie gras, cêpe mushroom and celeriac purée in a burnt bread emulsion you know that you are in for a masterful journey into the imagination of a truly talented and creative force.

Private parties and functions are catered to at the chef's table, cooking classes are held regularly and the original garden dining that made Mozaic such a success is still a 'must do' when visiting Bali, just don't forget to order the surprise degustation menu with wine pairing, then let the kitchen geniuses work their magic

Straight No Chaser

Ubud’s answer to Ronnie Scott’s serves a concoction of great cuisine and very fine Jazz. Nice...

Jazz CafeHere's the sort of place Woody Allen would warm to immediately, a purist approach to serving simple, yet tasty food and great music to dine to. The creative forces behind the Jazz Café (Jl Sukma, T: 0361 976 594) certainly know their music, the framed portraits of legends such as Thelonious Monk, John Coltrane and the like adorn the walls at the bar whilst a large gazebo lounge provides plenty of low slung seating adding a very relaxed feel to an already very chilled ambience.

Choices from the menu include a very simple but delicious twist on the baked Balinese banana leaf formula, substituting meat or fish for feta, chilli and herbs and served with baguettes.

There are plenty more vegetarian options dotted throughout including a tempting grilled Mediterranean pizza, but the grilled herb marinated beef kebabs warrant a special mention with chimichurri sauce (a cream based sauce with coriander, mint leaf, garlic and parsley), basmati rice and salad.

Desserts are limited to four choices but stick to the classics with a home made apple pie, passion fruit crème brulee, grilled banana split or rich French chocolate mousse with vanilla cream and toasted almonds.

Jazz CafeWhat the dining menu lacks in volume of choice the cocktail list certainly makes up for with a wide array of martinis, mojitos and themed tipples such as the Swell Ella and Cool Louis.

Already going strong after eleven years the Jazz Café remains ever popular with their loyal following and strong interest from local music aficionados.

Wednesdays are Latin groove, Thursdays Afrobeat and Fusion, Fridays Funk and Acid Jazz with Kenebe and the Bali Blues Band takes the reigns on Saturday nights. This is one place where you'll want to hit the dance floor after dinner.

Through the Looking Glass

images courtesy of horizon glassworks

Walking into Horizon Glassworks on the road up to Sayan, Ubud (Jl Tebongkang, T: 0361 780 4014) is akin to stepping into a parallel universe where the common laws of physics are disbanded and a pioneering sense of creativity hangs as thick in the air as the overwhelming heat emitted from the blast furnaces. The sign next to the maestro of proceedings, Ron Seivertson reads ‘Please refrain from asking questions until the break'. It is obvious why Ron and his workers can't stop to chit chat while they work. Blowing glass takes a tremendous amount of concentration and physical endurance. All this was quite evident when I saw the sweat on Ron's tattooed back and the tension in his arms as he wielded an iron rod with a deep red piece of still unformed glass.

Ron started blowing glass four years ago and discovered that his great grandfather was also a glass blower. He recently found out that fellow Norwegians with his surname ‘Seivertson' were also glass blowers. Alas, it's in Ron's blood. But there have been other major influences on his work as well. He credits two masters: Lino Tagliapietra and Pino Senroreto who are renowned as the best glass blowers in the world. "I was also deeply moved and influenced artistically by Gustav Viegland: the Norwegian great in stone whose work buckled my knees with his ability to capture human emotion three years prior to finding glass. This affected me so much, that I craved the ability to express ‘feeling' in any medium, as I have been overwhelmed with emotion and a need to express my whole life. Glass wise William Morris knocked me out completely with one look at his absolutely amazing ability to recreate nature and indigenous people. I begged the universe to someday come anywhere near this man's ability in hot glass."

There were many reasons Ron chose to set up his studio in Bali. He had been coming here for years and saw that there was a small glass movement here, so he got his foot in the door and worked in one of the studios. "I thought if there was any opportunity in the world for an emerging artist and to do what I want to do, it is going to be in Asia. Also, I've experienced that Bali is a 365 day a year trade show and the result has been pretty correct to my presumption that people from around the world will come and buy my glass, so that's what's been happening." And while it has only been four years since Ron's emergence, it is apparent that he is making quite a name for himself with his glass works throughout Asia. He was recently commissioned by a major client from the Philippines to do numerous installations including a series of huge glass flowers blooming from stainless steel trees for a stunning fountain display at an exclusive private island resort. Ron explained that the spectrum of precision required for making glass is huge depending on what you want to create. "The most important thing about blowing glass or reheating it is being able to sense the temperature. Fortunately, that's one thing that I had a really good feel for right off, whereas for most people it takes a long time to get that. When it comes to making the torsos and the solid sculptures that I do, one wrong move can ruin the whole piece, especially in the beginning. The practice of repeating and honing that skill is paramount to achieving your desire."

The process of making a torso has many sequential steps. First Ron has to gather up a certain amount of glass in sequential dips into the molten material. Then he proceeds to form an hourglass shape with a tool called a ‘jacks' which is used to shape the cylindrical portions of the piece. Next he flattens the back and front, which helps set up the breasts for a female torso. After this, he tapers the legs, pulls the beginning of the breasts and proceeds to cut in the butt and shape the beginning of the length of the legs. Next he must make sure that the waist isn't too thick or thin; he uses the jacks tool once again to define the hips and carves continually into those basic shapes until he has achieved the desired finished product. Finally, he completes the bottom and transfers it to a punting. "People ask me why is art glass so expensive?" Ron states, looking up from his latest piece, "they have no idea of what goes into the achievement of creating something really artistic. The truth is that every bit of my life experience goes into this work. I don't do it for the money. There's a lot of better ways to make money. I love this, and I feel this is what I've been called to do.

Secrets of the Oracle

culture

From the time Filippos was a child he was a natural sculptor. Sculpting is his way of expressing his feelings about the world and the beauty that he sees in it. His latest piece 'Transfiguration' is a magnificent 2.5 meter high figure made of solid glass. Unfortunately, it wasn't at his new gallery Oracle (Jl Sanggingan, opposite Neka Museum) the day I visited him, because it was on a boat heading for Italy, where Filippos will be competing in 'The Biennale Florence'. 770 artists from 76 nations will be participating in this prestigious event. Filippos will represent his home country Greece.

The sculpture is an abstract form of the human body, which represents the opening of the seven chakras. At its back is a teak wood ladder with seven steps which symbolize the 'Ladder of Jacob'. At the top of the figure is the crown chakra, which is made of a green obsidian disk that Filippos found in Sumatra. Inside the Obsidian stone are one thousand lotus petals carved into silver inlaid with Zirconium stones. Filippos has lived a relatively reclusive life in Sayan, and only recently decided that it was time to bring his art to the public, so he opened his gallery, Oracle in Ubud. It is not just a gallery that sells sculptures: it is a place of prophecy – a place where people can meet, explained Filippos. He wanted to create a space that was truly unique and would offer other people a new vision.

On the second floor is the seat of the Oracle – an impressive concrete structure built in a Grecian style with a striking carving of a doorway into the fifth dimension that was inspired by the indians of Mexico. The centerpiece is a magic wheel: a shaman disk from Siberia that consists of various stones and crystals in a circular design. "I wanted to find a place to create an oracle.

My sculptures aren't just sculptures; every piece is part of this oracle. If somebody is buying a piece they aren't just buying a sculpture, they are also buying a piece of the oracle." Filippos feels that he has a lot to give, but you have to find a way for people to listen to the oracle. "The real answers are coming from inside you, so the oracle's purpose is to get the person to reflect back and listen to oneself. When you are vulnerable and open up, you can see clearly what is going on." Some would say that Filippos is on the edge of genius with his art.

As I studied several of his sculptures in Oracle, I felt moved by the mastery and beauty of his work. Clearly evident are influences of Rodin and Michealangelo. His masterpiece, 'The Journey of the Soul,' has been featured in many publications. It is carved out of a massive log from Tiger wood into the shape of a spiral cone. Inside the cone are a man and a woman who look as though they are rising up from the vortex. On the outside of the cone are many symbols that tell the journey of the soul. "I used all my knowledge of ancient civilization to tell the story of the soul's evolution. There are seven steps of this evolution."

The sculpture has many symbols from Egypt, Greece, Tibet and Toth carved around the outside of the cone. The five major religions are also represented: Hinduism, Judaism, Buddhism, Christianity and Islam. Filippos envisions these religions uniting as one. Most of his pieces take a year or more to create. It is no surprise that he sells his sculptures for thousands of dollars.

But he says it's not just about the money; he wants the right people to buy his sculptures – people who really love and understand what his work represents. For Filippos, a true artist is always striving to achieve greatness in his or her work.

When I asked him whether he felt he had gained this stature he replied, "Yes, I feel that I am a great artist." It has taken him half a lifetime to become the artist he has always dreamed of being, but Filippos sees his life as a continuing process of opening up. The best is yet to come.

Surfing Nusa Dua Bali‘s Sunset Beach

surfing

The tourism enclave of Nusa Dua on the south-east corner of Bali simply oozes with five star luxury, and conjures up visions of umbrella-adorned tropical drinks being carried to you by elegant men or exotic women in ceremonial Balinese costumes, while you brown yourself poolside under the blazing sun with no more a care for anything but pure hedonism in the form of food, drink, and then a long, sensuous massage.

However for others, surfers in particular, hedonistic fulfilment takes a different form, and this five star Eden is home to Bali's most eminent big wave surf spot, simply known as "Nusa Dua". The name doesn't make a lot of sense logically, as the words "Nusa Dua " essentially mean "Two Islands", which aren't really islands but two rocky outcroppings that serve as the base for two Balinese temples….the closest maybe a kilometre or more to the north of where the actual Nusa Dua surfing break is located.

Regardless of semantics, Nusa Dua is, in the minds of most of the old time surf crew anyways, the Balinese version of Hawaii's famed Sunset Beach. According to long-time Bali resident Steve Palmer, who remembers surfing Nusa Dua for the first time with Kim "the Fly" Bradley back in 1974, Nusa Dua was like Sunset, Hawaii. "I surfed Sunset Beach at about 5 foot one time, and that was about the heaviest wave I have ever experienced. So when I had Dick Brewer (legendary Hawaiian board maker) shape me a board especially for Nusa Dua, I told him to make it like a Sunset board but pull it back about twenty percent. It worked perfectly," said Steve.

The picture of serenity with long blue peeling lines topped in bright white foam, Nusa Dua at three to four foot looks like mellow perfection to the average surfer, but a word of warning; never count out that sleeper set that will come from out of nowhere to pound you and wash you all the way down to the golf course! And turning it up a notch, the exhilarating elevator drop and race with that intimidating mountain of water that's intent upon catching up to you and giving you the beating of your life on a solid six to eight foot day is what Steve calls an "elemental experience". An experience that will have your head buzzing at 100 plus decibels and drowning out everything but your very basic survival instincts - but therein lies the attraction.

One of Bali's first surfers, Gede Narmada, made the trek from Kuta to Nusa Dua with Mike Boyum in 1973 to have his first "elemental experience." The path to the beach led through some cornfields, which is now the Nusa Dua Golf and Country Club, and there were no boats to take you out to the lineup in those days. Just your arms and a long paddle! The boats started taking surfers out to the lineup in the early 80's, and nobody paddled out from the south by the Nusa Dua Beach Grille and the temple until several years after that. The early Nusa Dua crew consisted of Narmada, Boyum, Bobby Radiasa of G-Land fame and several others, but nobody had the place wired like Kim Bradley according to Narmada. "Kim studied the place and knew where to line up in all the various conditions. He showed me the big tree and where to be in relation to it. That tree is still there and I still use it today as my reference," he said.

Knowing the line up doesn't mean you won't have a hairy experience or two. Narmada said his worst experience was when he lost his board on a sizeable day back in ‘83-‘84. It was big, high tide, and very strong current. "I was swimming and swimming and thought I would end up in Lombok! Then I met another guy who had lost his board and we started swimming together, heading out of the channel to the north. Finally, after about an hour we crawled up onto the beach. I'm telling you, if it's big you better bring a friend along…don't surf there alone!"

All things considered it's the danger factor that is the big draw after all, isn't it? If you want to cover your bases and balance adrenaline with preservation of life, don't go much shorter than a 6'6", and preferably a 6'10" to 7'2" with a bit of thickness to get in early and avoid those nasty elevator drops. Perfect conditions? In Narmada's opinion, Nusa Dua needs a solid 6-10 foot west swell and a medium tide (1.6-2.0) coming up to produce those big picture-perfect thigh-muscle-burning walls that peel down the reef for 200 metres or so. And if you don't want to fight the speedway current that allows you tantalizingly close but never lets you get to the peak, check the moon and make sure its neither full moon nor new moon but somewhere close to the middle.

Oh, one last thing…you should probably save your strength for paddling and pay the IDR 30,000 for the one-way boat trip out to the lineup. You'll need every bit of help you can get… But it'll be worth every stroke.

Treasure Hunting in Ubud

Ubud has been a shopping stop for decades. It has always been the place for handicrafts - wood carvings, Lombok pottery, puppets, masks, ceramics and other traditional items could be found in the many little shops lining the town's few streets or at the main market.

But things are changing in Ubud. All these goodies are still available, but now a growing number of upscale boutiques offer exciting alternatives. The town has become a treasure chest of collectibles. Many are produced locally in limited quantities for export while others may only be found in small galleries when stock is available. Others are samples and one-offs that will never be found again. But one thing is certain -- shoppers who go treasure hunting in Ubud will not be disappointed. Reliable packing and shipping services mean that there is no excuse not to send those treasures home.

sandalsDek's Studio is owned by Kadek Gunarta, an Ubud craftsman who travels regularly to Java to purchase old teak from traditional houses that are being knocked down for modern buildings. He brings ancient teak doors, walls, plough handles, fences, ship's planking and loose boards to his Ubud workshop to fashion into stunning furniture. The finely joined and finished pieces incorporate the 'warts and all' character of lived-in old wood. Kadek's commitment to recycling also reflects his reverence for traditional motifs and workmanship. Contact Kadek at 0812 3830 953.

Hananto Wibowo, features exquisite old Javanese pieces hand-picked from private collections at Hananto Lloyd Gallery. Located near Four Seasons Hotel in Sayan, it showcases interesting collectibles from Indonesia and elsewhere in the region.

Indonesia's intricate textiles are always popular and Studio 22k has one of Bali's leading textile collections. Although the gallery includes a variety of textiles from around the archipelago, it is probably best known for its very high quality batik, including museum- quality specimens and vegetable-dyed batiks from the 1930s. Ricka, the owner, is always happy to spend time educating visitors about textiles and local culture in general. Studio 22k is located on Jalan Raya Ubud next to the entrance of Oka Kartini Hotel.

The Buddhas and Silk Gallery in the Panorama Hotel complex on Jalan Pengosekan brings together an extensive collection of Buddha and Hindu images and hand-loomed silks. Images are rendered in stone, wood, glass, bronze and semi-precious stone ranging from one centimetre to 1.5 metres and are bought directly from the carvers whenever possible. Hand- woven silk is an ancient and refined art in most Buddhist countries where processes of spinning, dying and weaving the silk are meditatively slow, creating a gentle energy that remains in the cloth.

Whenever possible, the hand-loomed silks are bought directly from the weavers or from cooperatives and organizations committed to supporting the artists, to sustainability and to natural dyes. The gallery has silks from co-operatives in Cambodia, Thailand and some are dyed and hand-woven by AZURI in Ubud. It also sells the spectacular wearable art of designer Rana Helmi whose one-of-a-kind reversible jackets and coats are created from patches of silk and batik, for wear during day or evening.

High in the hills above Ubud is the kiln of Sariapi, the Essence of Fire. Here Swiss-born Suzan Kohlik creates unique porcelain tableware, vases and art pieces. Inspired by the Japanese tradition of creating a perfect piece of pottery and then rendering it imperfect, Suzan's collection is a delightful medley of colours and forms. The functional items use food-safe glazes, and she experiments with unusual glazes on the decorative pieces. Sariapi Gallery adjoins the Juice Ja on Jalan Dewi Sita.

The Pure Land Gallery on Jl Dewi Sita has a collection of hand- painted Tibetan thangkas from Nepal which can be purchased unmounted or framed in traditional silk brocade. The knowledgeable staff is happy to explain each piece, or to allow shoppers to sit quietly on the floor cushions and soak in the serene ambience. Cute and quirky men's and women's shoes and bags can be found at Sasorizacraft Shoe Shop - just up from Batan Waru. It's not uncommon to hear squeals of delight emerging from the little shop as visitors of all genders discover the treasures within. The brothers who own the business are friendly and flexible, and can make you new shoes to measure in just a few days. Renee Ariel, of Goddess Silks, has exquisite hand-painted silk kimonos, jackets and scarves featuring deities and metaphysical motifs which can take over 60 hours to complete. She also offers classes in silk painting at her Ubud studio. Pieces are available by private order or call the studio at telephone 08123 978 098 for an appointment.

There are many other treasures waiting to be discovered in Ubud's many boutiques, so sharpen up your credit card and go shopping!

Nusa Dua’s Puja Mandala

Nusa Dua's Puja MandalaA cluster of houses of worship representing all of Indonesia's religions can be seen on a scenic hilltop close to Nusa Dua. This two-hectare slice, known as Puja Mandala (the domain of worship), is home to a Buddhist temple, a Hindu temple, a Catholic Church, a Protestant Church and an Islamic mosque. This complex bears witness to Indonesia's unique constitution, known as Pancasila, that gives equal status to each of the country's religions. Created in the early years of Indonesia's independence, the state code is depicted by five symbols on the national coat of arms, the central one being the star, the symbol of religious belief, though the religion is not specified.

Dubbed as the 'Hill of Prayer', Puja Mandala is also probably unique in global terms since, although one finds major cities with an array of houses of worship belonging to various faiths, it is very rare to find so many different ones check by jowl. What makes it all the more surprising - and indeed is part of its charm – is its non- urban setting overlooking the sparkling sands of Sanur beach and the bustling harbour of Benoa.It is definitely worth a visit.

The idea to build the complex came about in the early 1990s, after the construction of several international-chain hotels in the enclave resort of Nusa Dua. The actual development of the 'Hill of Prayer', however, did not start until 1995, and coincided with the boom in Bali's tourism industry. During this upsurge, the need for places of worship for both visitors and migrant workers to the area was increasingly felt. Long renowned as a Hindu island in a sea of Muslims, Bali was rapidly becoming religiously cosmopolitan. The Bali Tourism Development Corporation (BTDC), the owner of the Nusa Dua Resort complex, donated the land and the various religious communities shared the development costs. It took around two years to build and was opened to the public with great ceremony in 1997.

In addition to being an expression of Indonesia's religious tolerance, there are at least two practical reasons for the development of the complex. The first is related directly to tourists of different denominations requiring a place to pray, a pressing concern given the fact that Nusa Dua often hosts major international conferences that draw in visitors from just about everywhere. To match the profile of its hotels, Nusa Dua needed something of quality to satisfy the religious needs of an increasingly diverse visitor profile. The development of Puja Mandala was considered to be an ideal solution and in providing such diverse spiritual facilities Nusa Dua's profile was raised as a resort that catered for everybody, whatever their country of origin or religious persuasion.

The other reason is related to the Nusa Dua community itself. The growth of Nusa Dua as tourism resort drew in large numbers of people who moved to live in the surrounding area, most of them working in tourism-related industry. Housing complexes have also mushroomed in the areas of Nusa Dua, the Bukit and Jimbaran to the south and west, and the religious needs of these migrants needed addressing. These people not only reflected Indonesia's religious diversity, but they also included expatriates who followed a variety of different faiths. Puja Mandala was built to satisfy both the needs of the resort's diverse visitors and its equally varied migrant worker community.

Nusa Dua's Puja MandalaIn addition to these practical reasons, the development of Puja Mandala was designed to showcase Bali's tolerance and multicultural character. The Balinese have long been known as a peace loving people characterized by harmonious relations among the different ethnic and religious groups living on the island. People of different faiths live side by side, taking care of one another. Visitors may come across a Buddhist ritual procession or festivity guarded by a combined force of Buddhist youths and the local Hindu security team known as pecalang. By encouraging the members of different faiths to worship in buildings in a united complex, Puja Mandala promotes the Balinese spirit of mutual understanding.

It is through being tolerant that the Balinese have been able to maintain peace and harmony, a prerequisite for a successful tourism industry that welcomes all comers. A lot has been written about how tourism has encouraged the Balinese to be proud of their culture, especially their visual arts, performing arts and handicrafts. It should also be added, however, that tourism also enhances the Balinese people's awareness of the importance of maintaining peace and harmony. With so many other destinations to choose from these days, the modern tourist is more likely to opt for places in which they feel secure and welcome. Thus, the ongoing promotion of tolerance not only creates harmony among the different community members but also helps sustain tourism, one of the major wellsprings of the island's prosperity.

The encouragement of tolerance is also supported through a forum that brings together the different religious groups to promote inter-faith awareness. This organization was established in both district and provincial level and religious leaders from all the major Indonesian faiths sit as members of the forum. They run regular meeting to discuss cultural and religious to encourage and facilitate inter-faith worship from time to time, and to act as guardians of Bali's inter-cultural harmony. The combination of Puja Mandala and this inter-faith forum represent a working system of how tolerance among the different communities of Bali and enacted in daily life.

Nusa Dua's Puja MandalaIt is often said that Bali is a unique island easily distinguishable from the others in the archipelago. Much attention has been devoted to the specific religious and Hindu-based cultural identity attached to the island's main community. In reality, Bali is a multi-ethnic society and has long been so. To appreciate this point one only has to descend from Puja Mandala to the nearby charming settlement of Tanjung Benoa where long established mosques built by Makasar seafarers and Buddhist shrines erected by Chinese migrants sit alongside the familiar Balinese temples.

Sabtu, 05 Desember 2009

Dava’s Delight

new to bali, and dava’s latest chef extraordinaire, william gumport explores the island’s vast supply of fresh ingredients, and does it frantic moped-style

posh dining with indian ocean view

Zipping across the island in a hunt for fresh tomatoes was not something William Gumport envisioned lying ahead when he jetted into Bali last July to head Ayana Resort’s upmarket Dava restaurant, but he has found himself making a mad moped-dash for these ingredients, along with a sprinkling of other items, as he settles into life as chef de cuisine on the sometimes unpredictable island.

While Bali offers plenty of things that William was expecting, tussling with suppliers was not one of them. “That’s one thing I had no idea about. I got over it pretty fast - I’m okay with that challenge,” says unflappable William.

We’re chatting at an intimate Dava table jutting into a pond punctuated with lotus flowers shuttered against the dusk. A breeze from Jimbaran Bay below stirs the leaves of surrounding trees.

The chef, who has served time in eateries in Las Vegas and New York, jumped at the opportunity to work in Indonesia, despite never travelling here before. William’s Asia experience extended to living in China for a few months with his family when he was younger and a trip to Japan.

“I had never thought of Indonesia until the opportunity came about and I’m very happy I made the leap,” he says, adding that he had been passively looking for work in Asia for two or three years.

posh dining with indian ocean view“My concern honestly was with the people and attitudes and what I would be running into, basically because I didn’t know any Indonesians. I came with an open mind and these people have totally won me over.”

On arrival, William decided to eschew the usual Bali expat ghettos and set himself up in an apartment at nearby Kedonganan beach.

“I definitely wanted to be able to immerse myself a little bit more into what’s going on around here and down there is mostly Hindu. It’s very representative of the Bali population so I’m happy with it.”

In the name of research, William has stuck his nose into Denpasar’s main market as well as a slew of local ones; he’s popped into the fish market at Kedonganan and even swept through the aisles of Carrefour, which provides a good range of fresh produce from around the archipelago.

Essentially, William seeks to use the “incredible”

local fruit, vegetables and seafood along with imported products such as beef, lamb, vinegars and olive oils to create a menu that is international in flavour, but not technically classified as culinary fusion.

“If I do something Asian, I kind of stick to those flavour profiles. If I do something European, I kind of stick to that profile,” he explains. “I do believe in classics, in classic combinations. I respect tradition.”

William’s next challenge is to source more interesting produce from Bali’s smaller farms. He has a series of meetings lined up in Bedugul in the days ahead to get to know some of the key suppliers there.

“They have all these resources. You just have to go out and kind of adjust a little bit but it’s all there for the taking,” says William. “I really am trying to use as many Indonesian things as possible but I’m trying to put them into a context that Westerners and Japanese would be familiar with. Using those ingredients just makes sense.”

The local market is already providing rich threads for the fine tapestry the chef weaves into his six-course degustation menu, which William aims to change weekly.

The menu follows a standard routine: amuse bouche, followed by an appetiser, a seafood, a red meat, then two desserts.

posh dining with indian ocean view“I kind of think in a traditional Western way about how to fill those in. It could be the ingredients, something that I’ve seen, it could be a technique or a dish that I’ve done before that inspires me - it could be a number of things.”

The amuse bouche on tonight’s degustation menu - the most European one William has done so far - is a case in point for both local sourcing and using a technique William has been experimenting with: local beetroot gazpacho with Dijon mustard ice cream and a drizzle of hazelnut oil.

“Basically I wanted to do a cold soup / ice cream sorbet combination because I’ve been doing that with a couple of things, and this is a combination that I know and I like. We found some beets that were grown here and Dijon mustard is a flavour that is not indigenous here, but it’s similar to Japanese wasabi, if you can understand that, so it’s something that [Japanese guests] can relate to,” he says.

The appetiser of calamari is also local, and amazingly tender, served julienned after being marinated in preserved lemon, parsley and herb oil, alongside potatoes crushed with a touch of mayonnaise and garlic and romanesco sauce.

The warmed-till-rare yellow fin tuna is another local item, and not to mention delectable - “Tuna is like a luxury item in the United States so I was excited to see that” - and the beef following allows William to use two local ingredients he’s currently infatuated with: ginger flower and tamarind. It’s slow-cooked wagyu cheek, glazed in tamarind with wilted spinach, mango chutney, white radish and the flower, which William had read about but never used before coming to Bali.

Traditionally the Balinese use it in a sambal, chopped and mixed with chillies and shallots, served alongside meat and fish.

posh dining with indian ocean view“I use it more in like a Western way, where you cut it really fine and you sprinkle it on things, or use it to infuse broths,“ William says.

The plentiful tamarind on the island has also captured William’s imagination.
“You can get it in the United States but here you walk outside and it’s on the tree, and it’s like, wow! I need to think of some things that I can do with this!”
Dessert begins with a beautifully caramelised pineapple tart tatin served with banana ice cream subtly flavoured with rum. And Dessert Number Two -William concedes that a “pre-dessert” is really just another dessert - is a parfait of chocolate mousse, coffee gelee, chocolate streusel and rum cream.

How does William keep his work exciting day in and out? “For one, it’s exciting driving my moped every day -- near death experiences keep you alive. But it’s searching out these places. Meeting these people. Meeting other food professionals. It’s learning a new language. You’re only bored if you’re lazy.”

It looks like Dava is going to be kept exciting for a long time to come.

New Year Events

big band and buffet
InterContinental Bali Resort invites their guests to the Puri Kencana Ballroom to celebrate NYE where everyone will be treated with cocktails, a gourmet buffet and a big band until the wee hours.

InterContinental Bali Resort (Jl. Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran, T: 0361 701 888)

the ubud party
When it comes to a hip NYE party on this part of the island, Uma Ubud is where it’s at Uma’s Masquerade on Dec 31 starts with a six-course NYE gala dinner at Kemiri (US$ 95++ per person) and continues with a full blown pool-side party starting from 9pm, which will feature a live DJ and a performance by Japan’s leading saxophonist Chika Asamoto.

Uma Ubud (Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud,
T: 361 972 448)

tales of indonesia
This gala dinner takes place at Nusantara Ballroom with tons of entertainment, including a fine collection of ethnic dance performances from across the archipelago and a fine jazz session by Cynthia Utterbach. Starts at 7pm and valued at US$ 250++ per adult and US$ 125++ per child.

The Westin Resort, Nusa Dua
(T: 036 771 906)

blue moon party
The party starts with a cocktail reception from 7pm at Di Mare Restaurant and a five-course set menu dinner from 8pm until 1am for US$ 245++ per person (food only). You also get to enjoy fine tunes from a baby grand pianist, a fire show and many great DJs. The after party takes place at Nammos Beach Club from 12midnight until dawn and at exactly 6am, breakfast will be served.

Karma Kandara (Jl. Villa Kandara Ungasan, T: 0361 848 2200)

dinner party
Filling up your stomach before abusing your liver is always wise. And when you can do it elegantly, it’s even better. Before celebrating NYE at the St. Regis Bali Resort’s beach with DJ Wilson, make sure you enjoy the eight-course degustation menu at Kayuputi Restaurant (Rp. 3,950,000 nett per person).

The St. Regis Bali Resort, Nusa Dua
(T: 0361 847 8111)

new year with hu’u
Like any decent party, this one starts with a six-course tasting menu dinner at Nutmegs Restaurant (Rp. 1.5 million nett per person) serenaded by acoustic jazz tunes before it goes crazy as DJ Matt Caselli of Pacha Ibiza takes over at the dance floor (ticket is Rp. 450,000).

Nutmegs Restaurant (Hu’u Bar, Jl. Oberoi, Petitenget, Kerobokan, T: 0361 736 443)

everyone deserves music
Multi-talented musician, humanitarian, poet, social activist and all-around hippie Michael Franti will have you feelin’ free at Sentosa Villas on NYE, giving a taste of his soulful and funky tunes with his crew, Spearhead.
Having gone barefoot for nine years now, this lyrical genius and guitarist who has never failed to inspire and deliver a big message of peace and unity will take time to entertain his fans in Bali before joining John Mayer on his tour in 2010.

Sentosa Villas (Jl. Pura Telaga Waja, Petitenget, T: 0361 730 333)

back to basics at hotel tugu
For this year-end’s celebrations, Hotel Tugu Bali chose the traditional path, as their rundown for the evening will consist of a Balinese blessing ceremony followed by a beautiful Rejang temple dance performance. The night will continue with a showcase of the rare Cupak dance performance based on an old Balinese folktale from the Buleleng regency that is said to have originated from the Kediri Kingdom of East Java. As midnight nears, put on your dancing shoes, or rather, take them off and join in the Tugu New Year Beach Party, headlined by internationally-renowned DJ Wayne, who will play a set of tropical jazz and blues.

Hotel Tugu Bali (Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu, T: 0361 731 701)

Christmas Events

not so raw christmas
Glow restaurant at COMO Shambhala Estate at Begawan Giri only serves raw food for the whole year, but on Christmas Day. The special brunch is valued at US$ 75++ per person and is perfect for a follow up after a five-course Christmas Eve dinner at Uma’s Kemiri (US$ 65++ per person) as both are cooked by the excellent chef Chris Miller.

COMO Shambhala Estate (Begawan Giri, Ubud, T: 0361 978 888)
Uma Ubud (Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud, T: 361 972 448)

a continental celebration
This year’s Christmas celebration at this resort starts on the Eve with a complimentary eggnog cocktail reception at Saraswati Lounge and continues with a special seafood delicacies set menu at Sunset Bar and Jimbaran gardens. And the next morning, Santa will come to spread his special message of peace and goodwill. What about our gifts, Santa?

InterContinental Bali Resort
(Jl. Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran, T: 0361 701 888)

indonesian christmas
Instead of feasting on turkey, which you have been doing every year anyway, why not try something different and go Indonesian? Chef Ida Bagus Oka of Mayang Sari restaurant at The Laguna Nusa Dua has prepared a five-course tasting menu for the occasion plus wine pairing (Rp. 750,000++ per person).
Should you want to choose your own dish from the archipelago, the a la carte menu is also available.

The Laguna Resort & Spa (Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 234)

by the water with santa
The Westin Resort Nusa Dua is giving you a chance to create your own menu from the lavish selection of dishes on offer at the buffet table (US$ 75++ per adult and US$ 35++ per child). There is also going to be a modern band and a live performance of Indonesia’s very own kulintang music to serenade your evening. Bring your kids as Santa has given us his word that he’s coming bearing gifts.

The Westin Resort, Nusa Dua (T: 036 771 906)

good karma
Christmas Eve dinner at Karma happens everywhere. There is a three-course dinner at Di Mare Restaurant (US$ 79++ per adult) in Karma Kandara Resort, and another three-course feast at Karma Jimbaran Resort (US$ 65.5++ per adult) and your very own in-villa feast at both properties for US$ 75 per adult.

Karma Kandara Resort (Karma Kandara,
Jl. Villa Kandara Ungasan, T: 0361 848 2200)
Karma Jimbaran Resort (Jl. Bukit Permai Jimbaran, T: 0361 708 800)

posh buffet
The St. Regis Bali Resort offers three different posh buffets at two of their main food outlets. Boneka Restaurant and Kayuputi Restaurant both have an Christmas dinner buffet on Dec 24 and 25 evening at Rp. 1,300,000 nett per person. Nearby at Gourmand Deli, Christmas-related goodies will be on sale from Dec 15.

The St. Regis Bali Resort
(Nusa Dua, T: 0361 847 8111)

festive lunch
Geared at the families who like to get together and be merry on Christmas day. At Rp. 388,000++ per person, you get a four-course set menu and a complimentary glass of eggnog. Deck the halls!

Nutmegs Restaurant (Hu’u Bar, Jl. Oberoi, Petitenget, Kerobokan, T: 0361 736 443)

Raw Beauty

from breathtaking landscapes to untouched villages full of hospitable people, flores is indubitably a genuine gem. moreover, organising a trip to this eastern part of the archipelago has become much easier in the last couple of years. it’s time to make the best use of this island before it becomes too popular for magic

Drops of sunshine are scattered like silvery stardust over the ocean, while a chain of high rising mountains sketches the horizon. The sight is so striking that it could have come straight out of a storybook. It is hard to grasp why more travellers don’t choose to visit the Nusa Tenggara Islands.
My tumultuous romance with Indonesia began in 2002 – three days after the horrendously destructive first Bali Bomb – when I worked as a volunteer at one of the six orphanages near Maumere in East Flores. Arriving at the diverse isle – it had been over three years since my last visit – I realised that it still has an enchanting power over me, rousing the feeling of coming home after a long period of absence.

The large number of languages and dialects spoken across the island, its intricate history, mountainous savannah, and grassland scenery are just a few of the magical characteristics of Flores. Combined with an inherent uniqueness and magnetism, the island is still a somewhat overlooked Indonesian treasure. Its location within the legendary Ring of Fire – down the long string of Lesser Sunda Islands – ignites earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. Although the possibility of such disastrous infrequencies might sound alarming to some voyagers, the peril is the very reason behind Flores’ impressive topography. A total of 129 volcanoes – 13 per cent of the world’s volcanic mountains – are spread over more than 2500 Indonesian islands, giving rise to natural wonders such as century-old fossils, crater lakes and remarkable geological formations.

The plants and animals in Indonesia’s western regions resemble those of mainland Asia, whereas the archipelago’s eastern fauna and flora is similar to that of Oceania. Endemic species such as the one-horned rhinoceros, Flores’ giant rat, the komodo dragon, unusual coral groups, marine mammals, and the now extinct dwarf elephants, help spark off Indonesia’s pride and mostly exist – or existed – in the archipelago’s central islands.

Perhaps the most bizarre discovery of a species was the 2004 unearthing of hobbit fossils. Javanese and Australian archaeologists from the National Archaeological Research Centre and University of New England dug up the remains of a tiny male and female human being said to have lived 13.000 and 18.000 years ago. Not surprisingly, the finding of these relics – named the Homo Floresiensis – changed the face of science and has tinkered with deep-rooted theories of modern man’s descendants. Many museums on the island explicate dwarfism and display skeletons and modern constructions of the peculiar phenomenon.

Organising a trip to Flores has become much easier in the last couple of years. Flights from Bali to the island’s two airports – one in western Labuan Bajo and the other in Maumere in the east – are scheduled daily and treat travellers to dramatic air views of the nearby rising and falling islands. If time is not an issue, and if your budget doesn’t allow the rather pricy airfare, cheap boat trips are available from major cities such as Surabaya in Java and Kupang in East Timor.

Whether you intend to pass through Flores as part of a backpacking spree from another Indonesian island or neighbouring Asian country, or you’ve chosen Flores for a relaxing or action-filled vacation, there are plenty of travel options. Merpati and Pelita Air are recommended airlines when journeying from Bali.

One of the Merpati aircrafts flew me to Maumere, Flores’ largest town and one of the two entrance ports to the island; Labuan Bajo being the second. A wave of melancholic emotions stirred up my insides during the flight towards the island that so intensely changed my life. I was remembering my first visit from faraway Belgium, when I was a fresh out of school twenty-year-old and, frankly, knew nothing of the world; let alone of its easternmost part. Courageous and adventurous as I was at that age, I jumped at the chance of travelling to appealing Indonesia and lend a good-doer hand where needed for six months.
I had specialised in working with children and adults with mental and physical disabilities. Acquaintances of some chums of mine had travelled around the Maumere area in Flores and visited a handful of orphanages. They thought it would be a good learning experience for me to go and soak myself in a waterless pool of poverty and sickness. I agreed. We were all right.

At the small airport in Maumere I was met by Mama Belgi – the Mother Theresa of East Flores – who has remained a close friend of mine since 2002. The now 74-year-old humanitarian was as vigorous as I recalled her to be and hugged me with the strength of a young man. She grabbed a hold of my hand and pulled me towards the car waiting for us in the car park. Marie Jeanne Colson certainly lays claim to many qualities, but no one could ever accuse her of being sluggish or low-spirited.

As if I had never left, the inspiring woman started filling me in on the current situation at the six orphanages – and one dormitory for girls – which she has set up over thirty years ago. Apart from some dangerous floods and the poor health of some of the carers, not much has changed. Families are still struggling painstakingly with illnesses – due to the high living cost on the island and the many disabilities that require expensive treatments – while striving to provide for their children and relatives. Some households are less successful than others and are forced to knock on the door of one of Mama Belgi’s orphanages, desperate to feed their children and to get familiarised with proper therapies for their hindered lives.

One of Mama Belgi’s revered characteristics is her determination to fight the atrocious poverty polluting the beautiful island of Flores. Over the years she has brought an entire organisation into being. It is now possible for people to support unfortunate families by providing educational funds, by financially adopting a child, or by making donations (See website and contact details below).
Apart from being tormented by heart-wrenching destitution and often incurable sicknesses, the Florinese are some of the happiest and most joyful people I have ever come across. The cheerful reggae-like local music – so typical to island life – is heard along the streets, in public buses and from the folks’ basic houses. The instinctive emotional power and energy they call upon to deal with life and what it throws at them is nothing less than admirable. Their dark chocolate faces are lit up, as if it were a divine gift, by pearly white smiles and deep brown eyes coated with the light of purity. I don’t want to come across as bias, so I highly recommend you embark on a Flores expedition of your own. You might very well be the next in line to fall madly in love with the island and its easy-going residents.

Accommodation is not as plentiful as it is in, for example, Bali and Lombok, but there are some decent hotels in the area. I felt very comfortable staying at a lovely beachfront residence called Gading Beach Hotel – some 20 minutes from the airport – in the colourful town of Nangahure. The property is owned by a Florinese family man, Pak Robi, with whom I enjoyed vivid conversations about upgrading the pretty bungalows and further developing his hotel. By the end of this year, the 15 air-conditioned bungalows are to be united by seven two-storey villas with private kitchen and all other amenities that we, luxury-craving westerners, pine for. Prices are very reasonable ranging from Rp. 90,000 for a room with fan, Rp. 150,000 with AC and Rp. 250,000 for the yet-to-be-completed villas.

The service at Gading Beach Hotel is rather slow and it might be a good idea to order your food about an hour before you want to eat, but who would really mind the wait when surrounded by such magnificent sea view and mountainous greenery? I lay in a hammock overlooking the shimmering Indian Ocean and wondered about how many swimming creatures there are yet to be discovered. I sipped my fresh guava juice and grinned. Island life… Who can withstand the sense of freedom it brings about?

The management team at Gading Beach Hotel has come to master the skill of helping guests discover the island. Affordable tours – by car, on foot or by boat – are scheduled upon request and motorbikes are for rent. Whether you wish to go on an exploratory trip by yourself or in the company of the hotel’s knowledgeable driver, words of advice and must-see locations are suggested free of charge. Maumere is gushing with historic entities, is famed for its ikat (a type of hand-woven textile) clothing and sarongs, excellent diving and snorkelling, and Portuguese heritage. The city is also a great starting point for treks to other remarkable towns and villages.

For me, this trip to Maumere was one of rediscovery and reconnection with the people that have taught me life lessons many of us are yet to learn. For newcomers to the island, there is an extraordinary world to explore; from breathtaking landscapes and multicoloured lakes to traditional villages inhabited by the bravest and most hospitable of people. It truly is a wonder.

Yhi Spa, Nusa Dua

touch of genius

magical fingers, magical potion and skin cells eating fish. welcome to yhi spa

the look
I have always wondered why certain hotels always put their spa a little far from their lobby. And they always turn out to be the hotel spas that impress me. Not until walking from Meliá Bali’s lobby to their Yhi Spa did I come to a realisation why it is so (for once I wasn’t in a hurry).

It’s like walking through a beautiful and vibrant park on a good summer day. You see a lot of things: children playing, fish chasing each other, leaves dancing and falling on green grass, adults snogging, a lovely picnic turning slowly into a disaster, etc. But after exiting the gate, all you can remember is one particular smell and one particular feeling, both of which make you happy and relaxed.

I remember a beautiful garden, but most vividly, I remember inhaling a particular smell. The smell of a happy holiday. The smell that immediately brings you back to one particular holiday where you had the best time of your life. It was really a touch of genius. I was already experiencing the spa even before I walked
into the lobby. I was ready to let go of everything and escape to an idyllic beach far away from everything.

And when you’re back to Planet Earth, you suddenly find yourself in a dimly lit lobby smelling like indulgence. The spa complex itself has touches of a Chinese house. The spa lounge is built above an oriental looking fishpond. In one corner is the fish therapy area where you get to dip your feet to an aquarium of a thousand garupa fish, which are more than keen to feed on the dead cells on your legs. On the other side is the steam room, which I have to admit, doesn’t look or feel claustrophobic.

the touch
Every single spa on the island offers a Balinese massage and it takes a magical set of fingers to stand out from the other thousand. Meliá Bali’s Yhi Spa’s Balinese massage routine is slightly different from the rest. It still uses the fingers to give pointed pressure to your deep tissues, but more flowy (compared the usual press-stop-press routine); I felt touches of Swedish massage, and the uses of elbows like in shiatsu.

My therapist applied the right amount of pressure. It was hard and deep enough that I felt like I was in a small village in north Bali getting massaged by a blind old lady. If there ever was a massage technique called contemporary Balinese massage, this might just be it.

the ingredients
Balinese boreh is a century-old recipe known to be able to prevent cold. It’s made of mostly clove, ginger and a lot of other spices and act like a scrub applied on your whole body. The potion has a potent warming effect, which is quite pleasant to sleep to. Afterwards, entireties of your muscles loosen up and you smell like clove.

the exceptional
Yhi Spa at Meliá Bali is also equipped with a spa garden at the back, very close to the beach. It’s admittedly dinky, but quite beautiful. There’s a dedicated area for a reflexology treatment overlooking the beach and the sea. I personally think this is a very good idea to set a reflexology treatment, especially when the weather is good, the sky is charming blue and the sea is in a good mood, enough to send you hypnotic rows of waves. That’s, then, another magical quality of the spa, when you can’t help but daydream and occasionally think, “Ouch…that painful spot must be my over-abused kidneys.”

Treatments starts at US$ 30; Yhi Spa
(Meliá Bali, Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 510, www.meliabali.com)

Island Update.....

sasha pumps up the volume at oceans27

World-renowned DJ / producer / remixer Sasha is recognised as one of the most innovative icons of the electronic genre and he certainly proved his cult status at Oceans27 on Nov 13. He has worked with the likes of Depeche Mode, Madonna, Seal, UNKLE, The Chemical Brothers, BT, Thom Yorke, and Orbital. We look forward to receiving him again on our shores.

Oceans27 (Discovery Esplanade, Beach Front,
Jl. Kartika Plaza, T: 0361 765 027)

glory in bali

The Commonwealth Bank Tournament of Champions was held at the Bali International Convention Centre, The Westin Resort, Nusa Dua from Nov 4-8, and featured top Tour players and next generation champions competing in an innovative 12 woman round robin singles format.

The top 10 Sony Ericsson WTA Tour players who have won at least one International Series tournament during the year and who are not participating in singles at the year-end Sony Ericsson Championships qualified for the event, along with two wild cards. The 12-woman event featured four groups of three players in a round robin format, then a single-elimination semi-finals and final.

Winner of the final tournament was Aravane Rezai from France, who triumphed over Marion Bartoli, also from France.

The Westin Resort, Nua Dua
(PO Box 36, Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 906)

ayana named asia’s leading luxury resort at world travel awards

AYANA Resort and Spa Bali has been awarded Asia’s Leading Luxury Resort in the World Travel Awards 2009, during a Gala Ceremony at London’s Grosvenor House.
Tagged “the Oscars of the travel industry” by The Wall Street Journal, the World Travel Awards acknowledge, reward and celebrate excellence across all sectors of the global tourism and travel industry.
“This is a great honour, to be recognised as Asia’s best luxury resort, especially when you look at the stiff competition around us in today’s luxury market,” said General Manager Charles de Foucault after taking the stage to receive the award. “There is no shortage of beautifully designed or luxuriously-appointed resorts, and the opening of the Rock Bar has put AYANA on the map for every visitor to Bali. But we aim to go beyond the ‘hardware’ of our facilities, to welcome our guests with a unique experience firmly grounded in the warm hospitality, dedicated yet discreet service, and friendliness of our ‘software’, our people.”

AYANA Resort and Spa Bali (Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran, T: 0361 702 222)

in tune with tune hotels.com

Tune Hotels.com is a line of hotels that offer five-star service and facilities with unbelievably low prices. The award-winning concept recently opened their doors in Kuta with 139 rooms available for use.

Tune Hotels.com (Jl. Kahyangan Suci, Kuta, www.tunehotels.com)


new face of hatten wines

Hatten Wines traditional labels have showcased their wine range since 1994 and they are very proud of their Balinese look, but 15 years on, it’s time for some subtle improvements. The new label, packaging and presentation represent Hatten’s commitment to continued improvement in the quality, style and value for money of their wines. The new label emphasises the company crest.
This bold new look brings freshness, simplicity and market appeal competing effectively against imported international wine brands. Hatten Wine’s priority is still to remain uniquely Balinese

www.hattenwines.com


alila soori opens its doors december

Located near Bali’s famous Tanah Lot Temple, along the south-west coast of the island, Alila Villas Soori offers beachfront living at its most stylish and luxurious. Alila Hotels is known for their uniquely different architectural and ambience concepts at each branch, and this one offers a contemporary Asian design that seamlessly crafts itself into the landscape and beautiful black sand beaches below, with panoramic views across the breathtaking Indian Ocean. This stunning resort and residential villa community is a mix of beach experience and spa wellness, definitely a paradise setting designed for rejuvenation and stimulation of the senses.

Alila Villas Soori (Banjar Dukuh, Desa Kelating, Kerambitan, Tabanan,
E: soori@alilahotels.com)

December activity

timeless change
Until December 7

A joint exhibition of husband and wife team, Adrian and Runi Palar, showcasing his paintings and her exquisite jewellery designs. As the curator, Bruce Carpenter, explains, “Their exhibition is a map of both their individual and shared aesthetics, set against the subtle background of their interpersonal relationship”.

Ganesha Gallery (Four Seasons Resort Bali at
Jimbaran Bay, T: 0361 701 010)

indonesian pulses
Until December 26

“Indonesian Pulses” is a photography exhibition by Meliana Salim and Leon Vrielink that opened on Nov 26. It showcases Meliana’s love for travelling and scuba diving, whereas Holland-hailed Leon, who was dubbed as Bali’s youngest photographer at 18 years old, displays his new works with a more mature artistic sense.

Swiss-Belhotel Bay View
Nusa Dua (Jl. Kebo Iwa, Nusa Dua, T: 0361 848 000)

banyan tree ungasan unveils new cliff-top villas in bali
December 15

Banyan Tree Ungasan promises panoramic ocean views, effortless rejuvenation and unforgettable cultural discoveries. Perched 70 metres above sea level on the cliff-top of the island’s southernmost peninsula, the resort offers stunning vistas of the Indian Ocean from its in-villa infinity pools, which are arguably the most expansive in Bali. Banyan Tree Ungasan features 73 individual pool villas and is scheduled to welcome its first guests on Dec 15.

Be the first to enjoy the Ungasan Unveils package, a delightful sojourn which offers one complimentary night with minimum two consecutive nights’ stay. The package includes breakfast at Bambu Restaurant and return airport limousine transfers for two people. For stays of four nights and above, guests will also enjoy a complimentary four-course set dinner at Ju-Ma-Na restaurant. This introductory offer starts at US$ 620++ per night for a Pool Villa and is valid for reservations and stays from Dec 15 to Mar 31.

Banyan Tree Ungasan (Jl. Melasti, Banjar Kelod, Ungasan, T: 0361 300 7000)

irish hospitality in the heart of kuta
December

For the month of December Gracie Kelly’s Irish Pub at the Bali Dynasty resort offers a Heineken Happy Hour every Monday from 9pm-10pm. Buy one bottle of Heineken and get one free. Their Golden Lotus Chinese Restaurant recently introduced their new Menu by Chinese Chef Nono and the Golden Lotus now features a Piano performance to accompany your dinner every Friday from 7.30pm onwards.

Gracie Kelly’s Irish Pub (Jl. Kartika, Tuban, T: 0361 752 403)

pretty punk in pink
December 10

Milan-based remixers Pink is Punk is back for their Indonesian Tour and they will be raising electronica hell at Double Six club on Dec 10. After a successful run of Bali gigs in August, the duo will perform their set on our island before jetting off to Bandung and after performing a set in Jakarta. Check out their MySpace page for a taste of their remixing brilliance.

Double Six (Jl. Double Six, T: 0361 731 266 )

 

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