To Be-ach or Not to Be-ach, Is that the Question?

When we think of Bali, we conjure up images of palm trees, white sand and crashing waves, whether in fact the image appeals to us because we are surfers, sunbathers, shell collectors or sunset/rise shore walkers. For whichever reason, the beaches encompass Bali with love and we shall all visit one at some stage of our visit, whether our hotel is placed right in front of one, or we choose to venture further a field through recommendation.

But, have you really ever considered what beaches mean exactly to the locals, who really do not enjoy 'sun-baking' or splashing in the surf to the degree that the tourists do? What significance does the big blue have for them? Well, first off, it is considered a form of income, as it has done for centuries; seaweed farmers and fishermen work tirelessly in their boats or even on shore for a catch, to bring home to share with the family, or sell at the local markets. Jimbaran Fishmarket was started years ago on the beach down from the Four Seasons from just a handful of charming 'Warungs'. The menu was simple; fish, local greens and white rice, sauced up with a local 'sambal'. Drink was either a bottle of the local brown stuff, 'Bintang', or the ubiquitous 'Aqua'. Sunset melted into evening, as a dome of stars climbed into the sky over the bay, and the beauty of it all was that you could plonk your table anywhere you felt, even with toes in the lapping Indian Ocean. The real pleasure and adventure of all this, was first choosing your fish from the local fisherman owner and having it weighed before your eyes, when you paid by the kilo. Unfortunately, these 'Warungs' were closed and shifted 100 metres into a strip of about 20 cafes, and the original charm was lost, along with the local fisherman's simplicity, and now you may drink from a long list, and eat whatever you choose with your catch. Nonetheless, it is still worth a visit.

The other occasion that the Balinese get to the beach is on auspicious ceremonies, occurring about twice a year. The sea is seen as a form of purification, of both their own bodies and various objects, and these can be witnessed on Melasti Day as well as Banyupinaruh Day. Otherwise, there are a few local surfers riding the waves, and on Sunday afternoons, families, or groups of friends, are tempted to dip at sunset, fully clothed! Quite an interesting sight to be witnessed.

For us, beaches can mean a whole host of recreational activities on the sun-kissed shores, or upon the waves. Many of the sea-facing resorts can be found over in Nusa Dua (meaning second island) on the southern tip of Bali. This enclave of hotels and resorts was set up to cater to tourism within a safe environment, and also to keep the impact of tourism for the locals on Bali at a minimum. Well, Nusa Dua is beautifully maintained, and a pleasure to those who visit; and as we are aware the impact of the world hit Bali as it broadened through international exposure, both good and bad.

The beaches however, remain timeless. Looking down towards the ocean, the scene hasn't changed for donkey's years. Cool blue-green transparency, showing feet with hidden toes beneath white sand. Waves breaking on a reef further out to sea, a breeze that whips across trees and grass on a headland, visible to the naked eye; a fishing boat lazes its way across the waves as an egret follows in anticipation of an easy meal. At Nusa Dua, this scene will not be broken by a cackled call of 'Plait your hair', or 'Massage' as the hawkers are non-existent (it is amazing how, as you come out of the sea else where on this isle with just a smile and wet attire, how a hawker will rush up to sell you a bow and arrow set or the such, when; a) you visibly haven't any money on you, and b) who wants to be Robin Hood just at that moment?), although, there are plenty of water sports for the truly active to participate in. Whether you enjoy one or more of the following you will not be disappointed; surfing, snorkeling, diving, kite surfing, wakeboarding, body boarding, water and jet skiing, windsurfing, kayaking or just lazing on a lilo (but watch the currents as they can be misleading, and therefore dangerous). The local hotels and resorts all have some, if not all, of the above-mentioned at reasonable rental costs by the hour or day, or even complimentary usage.

Along the Nusa Dua stretch and to Tanjung Benoa (a pleasant stroll the length of palm fringed shores), there are several notable resorts for beach fun such as The Conrad, which along with having its own spectacular beachside pool, looks onto stunning sunsets, with all rooms featuring ocean or garden views. The spa offers the full range of treatments, and here you can choose to eat and drink from several notable food and beverage outlets. The famed Sheraton Laguna, which as a vast sprawling tropical garden with pools and lagoons, has many organized activities from sunrise until dusk (if you care to be organized whilst holidaying). Its spa offers many thermic and aqua-hydro therapy treatments, as well as a gym to tone up after eating at the many food outlets, notably 'Mayang Sari' overlooking a waterfall and offering fine dining – a treat not to be surpassed!
The Nusa Dua Beach Hotel also has a great spot looking onto the sands, and can offer days of lazying around on sun-beds with everything at hand for the landlubbers of you reading this. I t provides first class entertainment, especially the weekly buffet and Balinese dance.
Incidentally Nusa Dua also has a golf course, Bali Golf and Country Club, if you feel like hitting a round, and not going anywhere near to anything beginning with 'sea'. This Golf Club has some competitive day rates so be sure to check before just 'turning up'. The greens are excellently maintained, which is no mean feat in the heat of the tropics. Of course, the waters are tempting, especially in the heat of the tropics, so a plunge a little deeper may be what you require. If that is so, then your hotel beach club can certainly put you in touch with a reputable dive company; and if you have never had a dive before, then Bali would certainly be the place to learn, offering extremely competitive international rates. Otherwise don a snorkel and mask and see what the fish are up to down there, octopus' garden or not.

The best of the beaches in Nusa Dua, is for last. The crescent shaped beach, which starts in front of the Nikko, and curves around past The Grand Hyatt finishes when it is cut off by a headland. At low tide, the porous volcanic-rock caves home and hide none other than the black and white sea snake (very often documented on Discovery, and for the record, not that dangerous). They are passive, sleepy creatures, and many an afternoon has been in search of a glimpse of the coiled stripes with my eager seven-year-old son. You may find that what you believe to be a 5 minute amble out to the rocks in search of the serpents turns into a 2 hour “where were you?' as you find shells, star fish, sea cucumbers and rock pools teaming with fish and other marine life, as the real island life pace takes you, until you forget time and just become one with nature.