no place like home......

no place like home

from interviews with the movers and shakers of the island’s property industry to the a to z of building your own pad, here is all you need to know about making yourself a home in bali

saxon looker
sea sentosa and the layar
www.seasentosa.com, www.thelayar.com

on sea sentosa
Originally, my concept was to do villas because we [Sentosa Group] are known to be very good at it. But this particular site just doesn’t lend itself to it. So, what we’re doing instead is to try and make the most tasteful apartments as we possibly can. That’s why we have enlisted Patrick Blanc who is the foremost vertical garden specialist in the world. We’re trying to make everything as green as possible, as visually stunning as possible but at the same time as unobtrusive as possible to the beauty of the surrounding nature.

on the environment
Our aim is to be as environmentally responsible as we can. We will handle our waste in a responsible way meaning our water waste will have zero water pollution and we’re using power as smartly as possible. I have a personal connection to the site. I’m a surfer who surfs there every single day. Therefore, it’s very important for me how clean the rivers are.

on working with the local communities
The community [in the vicinity of the site] has actually been very actively involved with the design. It’s been a very interactive process. What the villagers have recommended for the development,
which we have adopted, has made it even better. We listen to what they have to stay about the height in relation to the temple, the aesthetics such as having certain things more Balinese and much more. We know how much
the status of the temple means to the community and this has to be respected and so are the wishes of the individual villager.

on developments in bali
I’m definitely for developments in Bali. I know there are those who are saying that all developments are bad. But if you want to take that position, we’d all be sitting down in Kuta. While some westerners are against the developments, the actual chief of the village is saying that the development is going to be really good for the community. I’m not suggesting that what the expats are saying between their yoga session and their massage is not to be listened to, but development for any place is important, especially for Bali, which depends on its tourism industry. But at the same time, you have to make it as responsible as possible. You have to make sure it relates to the community as well as it possibly can. And I know in Bali, it has to, otherwise your project won’t be a success.

and more about the layar
is it possible for the buyers of your property to personalise their purchase? Yes. Personalisation options include:
Shape of the swimming pool.
Shape and position of the garden Jacuzzi.
Layout of bathrooms, including possibility of air-conditioning.
Change/upgrade of flooring materials.
Upgrade of internal bathtub to Jacuzzi bathtub.

Fish Out of Water

it’s always very smoky and it feels hot when it’s too crowded, but it’s so good, the only thing you care about is the food on your plate…

Tables on the sand, the smell of coconut husks grilling fish, the occasional fireworks, the cheap wine, the cold beer, piles of empty plates and of course the great seafood bites, all make a great Jimbaran beachside dining experience. These joints don’t really care if they should serve food from your right or left side, or that your wine glass needs a second refill. Their charm lies in how their food is simple yet good. They go with the philosophy which believes that if your palate is pleased, nothing else matters.

Evidently, it works. The plethora of seafood restaurants that currently dot the Jimbaran coastline is a major destination for anyone visiting Bali. It’s on the recommendation list of all travel guides. In certain ways, it almost defines Jimbaran.

Looking at this phenomenon, it’s hard to imagine that it all started with one man. In fact, maybe even the entire economic picture of Jimbaran would have been much different without one great idea that exponentially blossomed.

It all started in the mid 80s along the sandy shores of Jimbaran Bay. A young fisherman named Nyoman Bagi’s would guide tourists on small fishing trips on his small boat in the bay. The tourists and Nyoman would fish and take their catch back to shore where the Balinese man would make a fire on the beach and grill the fish for his clients as part of the fishing trip.

It then occurred to him that if he set up a cold drink stand right next to where he grilled his fish, the clients would buy the refreshments as he served their catch. This infinitesimally small idea marks the very beginning of all the grilled fish warungs in present day Jimbaran; much like an infinitesimally small spore implanting itself onto a rock can spawn into a giant coral reef.

In 1987, Nyoman decided to actually grill and sell fish and turned his enterprise into a tiny one-table shack and dubbed it Ramayana. As time wore on and more and more fish were grilled, the shack slowly evolved into a slightly bigger shack, trading out pieces of bamboo and a tarp roof for slightly bigger pieces of bamboo and a thatched roof.

It was at this stage when a Swiss queen came to his shack and tried his delicious grilled fish and wrote him a royal endorsement, an honour which he proudly keeps till this day. Nyoman recalls, “Swiss people would be so surprised to see this certificate, they’d round up all their friends and take them to my café.”

With all things in Bali, original ideas don’t stay original for too long. Soon another grilled fish shack opened up next to Ramayana, followed by another. In 1996, the Bupati decided to move the restaurants to a different location as to not interfere with hotel development. They were allowed different slots on the beach much as how it looks today.

A couple of years later, the Desa decided to build structures behind the restaurants that became shops and kitchens. As demand for more space to build other seafood cafés grew, every available space was turned into a kitchen to support the ever-multiplying restaurants on the beach. This was how a lonely drink shack on a beach evolved into the mass of seafood restaurants you see today.

When asked about what he thought of the all the new restaurants in the format that he essentially started, Nyoman commented, “as long as it’s still healthy and there are still customers, it’s a good thing.”

Today there are 52 seafood restaurants in Jimbaran where tourists and locals alike regularly get treated to fresh seafood grilled on coconut husks. The format of each restaurant is pretty much the same with variations in the sauces and trimmings one can get. All the seafood is from the local Jimbaran fish market located on the beach. Typical establishments offer a variety of recently caught fish, lobster, squid, prawns, clams and crab with salad, morning glory, potatoes and rice. Most seafood is lathered with a generous amount of chili sauce which, combined with the smokiness of the coconut husks, gives the seafood its unique taste. Chilli-phobics need not worry, you can request the concentration of the spice on your meal.

Once you’ve picked a restaurant that seems right for you, the first thing to do is pick your fish. To ensure freshness, the opaqueness of the eyes is a good indicator of how recently your dinner was caught. Dishes are mainly served “family style” where they are placed in the middle and diners divvy up the food. The restaurants may look almost identical, but each one has its own unique way of doing things.

No matter which establishment you choose, the immediate impression you get is of a chilled laid back dining experience, with the novelty of actually selecting your own food to be barbequed for you. It is an essential stop for any seafood lover visiting the island. Therefore, these restaurants are perfect for a casual dinner with friends, family, or a tour bus group. Tables are laid directly on the sand where customers can watch the iridescent sunsets and spot newly arriving tourists on planes landing in Ngurah Rai international. The oceanfront setting is also littered with colourful fishing boats dotting the bay from the beach to the horizon. The atmosphere is also augmented by a four-piece guitar band that serenades diners with hit cover songs. As night falls, the open setting lets you eat under the equatorial stars.

Thousands upon thousands of tourists and locals visit Jimbaran beach every year specifically to eat its now famous seafood. An entire local economy has benefited from both jobs created and the revenue harvested from what started off as a humble fisherman, grilling fish. If you haven’t done it, then chances are you will soon. •

You can find Ramayana, the original fish grilling shack, at Jl. Pemelisan Agung. It’s the third restaurant from the right if you’re facing the beach. T: 0361 702 859

Due North

located on the northern coast of the island, singaraja used to be the centre of everything during the golden age of the balinese kingdom. with one damaged leg and a previously horrifying road trip experience, our writer headed up north to find out what’s left of the former capital of bali and check out its vicinity

Faced with another roadblock, the driver decided to swerve his dinky and weary car to the left, into a narrow alley that led to the much more slummy side of the town. I kept looking back to check that the mobs with guns were not tailing us anymore while praying that this would get us across the roadblock. But that hope immediately faded when we stumbled upon yet another roadblock. They had covered every single possible escape route. What was left was to get out of the car and negotiate our way through the blockade, which my travelling partner did exactly.

Fuelled with fear, my eyes were indeed open, but everything was blurry. Soon, I started hearing people shouting. I expected the worst. And with the shouting becoming more and more intense it did look like we were going to end up getting shot or tortured in prison for the rest of our lives. But then I heard a familiar voice saying, “Come on. Get out of the car. We’re walking through the roadblock.”

“What? How many days do you expect us to walk?” I asked.

“Only until after the blockade. There will be cars there.”

I got out of the car, cursing every single staring, angry-looking and sweaty mob member in my head and at the same time thanking my lucky stars that I had just scored travel story gold.

And suddenly, my mind fast-forwarded to the present. I had just been reminiscing about a road trip in Kathmandu. I was in a car again, not moving and parked right next to a cliff in Bedugul. Vertigo immediately hit.

That’s exactly what happens whenever I’m on a road trip - I have too much time to think and the rapid movement of objects through the car windows are somehow hypnotic to me. Images of Nepali communist mobs carrying guns, chasing my car apparently resulted in immediate paranoia and one guaranteed week of nightmares. Add this with being forced to hop on a tiny, eight-seat propeller plane which then flew above the Himalayas with dodgy seatbelts and cotton buds to cover my ears, I had to be immediately taken to an asylum as soon as we landed.
But if the images are green vegetation growing wildly among traditional Balinese houses, adorned with the occasional red, yellow and white from the flowers, the result is a state of almost absolute happiness.

The view of the villages we went through leading up to Bedugul reminded me a lot of the town in Lombok where I grew up. The markets, for instance, looked beautifully raw. The buildings that made up the shops looked old, with plenty of scars. The bricks in the walls were sticking out like damaged bones on deeply severed flesh. Dust was the prominent component, but also optimism. None of the old ladies looked upset or broken. Even the parking man looked cheerful.

The higher we climbed up the mountain, the stronger the feeling of serenity. I think you are left with no option when you’re given the combination of a sleepy town – there was hardly anyone on the street, a big lake that looks very calm, green hills, cloudy sky, and the slightest hint of fog - you can’t help but feel at ease. It was as if the complications of life had not penetrated this part of the mountain yet.

I spotted a trucker talking on his mobile phone on the side of the street and caught myself getting carried away, finding the whole scene odd. But then I remembered that at the same moment, I was receiving football match results from halfway across the planet directly on my phone, in real time.

The former capital of Bali, Singaraja, had its own way of welcoming you. While the town looked pretty and friendly, the sun was less so. The first time I stepped out of the car, the heat was almost unbearable. Not because it was just hot, but because it felt like it had a sting that punctured right through my flesh.

The finer side of town was, like most Indonesian towns, a little outside the centre. I noticed how the streets were much bigger compared to the ones in Denpasar. The government offices also looked better taken care of. The colours of the walls still looked good. And their candi bentar (gates) were bigger too, with more intricate carvings.

A left turn took us to the even posher side of town, where a lot of Dutch-style houses were lined up. Some of them looked really old and had been turned into offices. The others, meanwhile, are still standing tall looking beautiful.

Our first stop in Singaraja was not far from this area. The Buleleng Museum (Jl. Veteran Singaraja) failed to give me any significant information about this coastal town. We indeed came across a lot of old lontar (palm leaf) manuscripts, but there wasn’t much explanation as to how significant they were to the history of Bali.

Apart from feeling excited about being able to buy copies of old books about Bali, I found out that the shadow puppet figures from this part of the island look more gothic compared to their Javanese counterparts. They have a more monstrous look. The Hanoman figure, for example, looks like he has really bad skin and sharp fangs.

The centre of the city – or what I thought was it because it has more shops and looks busier – is located near the old harbour. Right behind this harbour is a line of streets that reminds me of Macau. Ageing two-storey houses that resemble old warehouses decorate the small street in the middle. We came across a mosque and a few Moslem wear shops. This must have been the Moslem area of the city.

Not far away, through the gate to the old harbour, is a Chinese temple.

Because the harbour was dominated by grey, pastel and black, the red paint of the temple makes it stand out. However, the highlight of this abandoned harbour to me was the patina left on the ruins of what used to be the harbour’s warehouses. The walls are scarred, the locks broken and the roofs destroyed. If it weren’t for the heat, I would probably have spent hours staring at those walls, risking being taken away as a nutter by the police, but we had other missions to accomplish.

One of which was to check out a hot spring. The way there, we passed Lovina Beach along a road that presented you with the sea on one side and the mountains on the other.

As soon as we entered Banjar, the vegetation changed. Rows of grapevines replaced paddy fields and the smaller the road, the slimmer and taller the plants became. Bamboos, banana and coconut trees were almost everywhere too.

A hot spring usually means a lot of steps to tackle. And I recently had a motorbike accident, which temporarily lessened the mobility of my left leg. Hesitating to even get out of the car, from a distance, I saw a very old woman in a wheel chair emerging from the direction of the hot spring. She was pushed by another old woman and was in a group of similarly aged people. The thought of seeing their faces haunting – and mocking - me for the rest of my life gave me extra strength to soldier on. I couldn’t care less if I lost my left leg in the process as long as I didn’t embarrass myself in front of them. On top of that, seeing the wheel chair, I knew the steps wouldn’t be too difficult to tackle.

Indeed, without much pain I managed to reach the hot spring. It was not just full of local tourists, there were some foreign looking faces bathing too. Our driver told me that one of the springs is believed to have a healing powers. So he suggested that maybe I could give it a try. The thought sounded good for a moment, but after looking at the colour of the water, I didn’t have the courage for an infection.

Leaving Banjar, the sky slowly became more and more cloudy. Before, our left side view was green and yellow, grown against a blue background. But within minutes, it morphed into green, yellow and brown on a dark purple background before it became black and the rain inevitably poured down on us.

When we reached the even quieter side of North Bali, Pemuteran, the rain had subdued. One wrong left turn brought us to an unknown beach. It was a little scary as the small road went on and on, past a swamp that looked like it had giant crocodiles living there, before it ended on a small and secluded beach. I saw motorbikes parked there but the owners were nowhere to be seen. Realising the lack of lights around and the fact that the sun was almost gone, we decided not to risk getting even more lost and headed directly for the hotel. •

where to stay

Matahari Beach Resort & Spa
Jl. Raya Seririt, Gilimanuk
Pemuteran, Buleleng
North Bali
T: 0362 92 312 / 93 435
www.matahari-beach-resort.com

Located in a very secluded and quiet part of Singaraja, this 32-room, five-star hotel operates with serenity and peace as their priority. The rooms are adorned with intricate Balinese carvings and are also very spacious. The winner of Relais & Chateaux Environment Trophy 2007, this hotel has a beachside restaurant that offers a good fine dining experience.

Mentawai Island: the Ultimate Diversity of the Hidden Paradise

Located in the middle of Indian Ocean, 150 km and takes 9 hours trip from Padang, West Sumatra-Mentawai glowing with all the nature spirits and make it an extraordinary escaping spot from a hectic life. Mentawai is the natural habitat for 16 endemic species, and some of them categorized as endangered species e.g. Simakobu monkey (simias concolor-eat leaf as primary food).

The present life of Mentawai people categorized as the legacy from Neolithic era and they have a strong believe in nature spirit, for their life strongly affected by nature. They believe that nature is the center of life. All the genuine attributes make Mentawai a perfect place to gain cultural experiences, here you will notice a very fascinating and indigenous culture, like traditional cloths, art, music and the way of life. The entire culture attributes strongly reflects their respect to nature.

Tattoo is one of the most important symbol for Mentawai people, its reflect maturity, manhood and status. The art of this body painting inherit from their ancestor. The tattoos ink naturally made from leaf.

Among the surfers, Mentawai is the best place to fill their demand for challenges and natures beauty. The beaches offer one of the highest wave in the world, 3 to 4 meters, totally challenge your gut. Once you grounded your self in this hidden Paradise Island, next you will paddle out to the worlds best surf. Dont call your self Surfer if you havent ride Mentawais waves said most of the surfer to expressed their surfing experiences in Mentawai

There are four ultimate diving spot here in Mentawai ,Siberut, Sipora, Pagai Utara (north Pagai) and Pagai Selatan (south Pagai). You can find great waves here year round, but the best waves are during dry season, March to October. Make sure you have the gut to explore all the glassy waves, because the best way to entitled your surfing experiences remarkable is through finding your own.

Getting There

• Take flight from Sukarno Hatta air port, Jakarta to Tabing air port, Padang-west Sumatra (flight served every day)
• Trip from Teluk Bayur port, Padang to Mentawai island by Ferry

Where to Stay

Lot of visitors said, that the best housing to stay is the local people house. Offer you a distinctive way of living in a unique architecture and experience interacting with local people. Other wise you could stay in a budget hotel in Siberut




Moving Around

To access all the beauties offered, you can use boat owned by local people. You can find the boat a long the beach and the rate depend on your bargaining power

Boost your taste with exotic and fresh sea foods that you can found in the local restaurants run by local people. If you are lucky enough, you can pick and cook your own sea food, but make sure you know the secret recipe/spices from Mentawais people. For those who are not sea food lover, you can find regular meals for your dining.


Souvenir Tips

Local hand made souvenirs like traditional hats, traditional bag and accessories will be genuine souvenirs for your relatives and friends. You can buy it in a souvenirs shop or buy it from local people directly.

Other Things to See or Do

Beach Activities

• sight seeing
• Diving
• Snorkeling

Cultural Activities

• Learn how to perform the Traditional dances (war dance and gratitude to nature)
• Traditional ceremonies
• Mentawai is one of the best place to conduct an Ethnographic study since its one of the oldest tribe in Indonesia

Ecotourism Activities
As the habitat for rare primate, the natural rain forest of Mentawai will be the perfect place for research or other educational purpose. Here, you can conduct research about

• Snub-nosed monkey/Simakobu (Simias concolor) monkey family eat leaf as primary food
• Joja or Lutung Mentawai (Presbytis potenziani) easily identified for the long tail, white face and black hair head
• Bokkoi atau Beruk Mentawai (Macaca pagensis)
• Kloss Gibbon/Bilou or Siamang Kerdil (Hylobates klossii) famous for the beautiful voice, different compared to general monkey

Travel Tips

• Nature and culture come to be understood and respected
• Bring your own surf board with you, because its may hard to find surf board shop in Mentawai
• You may arrange your travel using the local travel agent in Indonesia
• Great wave can be find year round, but best wave is during dry season March to October
• Bring your personal medicine
• You may arrange your visit by contact the travel agent and airline services in Indonesia

East Javenture

when you have the dawning realisation that bali has become too claustrophobic and you are in urgent need of a little trip, east java has a few precious geological gems

The first step to an awesome Java adventure is getting to Java in the first place. Thankfully, this just might actually be the easiest leg of a modest journey.

The beginning of our trip is marked by an early morning arrival at the central bus station known as Terminal Ubung. A little windowed booth in the middle of the station is staffed by uniformed employees who can direct passengers to one of the many buses loitering in the station. If that’s too difficult, there are plenty of men hustling the bus station ready to direct you to a bus in order to graft a little commission from a bus driver.

The bus route to Gilimanuk takes a breezy three and a half hours along a road that hugs most of Bali’s South-West coast. Before you know it, you’re at the Gilimanuk bus station, which is conveniently next door to the ferry port. A short walk, a mere Rp. 33,000, and a ten-minute wait later you’re on a vessel that creeps over treacherous currents of the Bali Strait to your next waypoint, Banyuwangi.

Despite Banyuwangi’s rich history as the last Hindu kingdom in Java and a territory of Bali, there’s really not much to gawk at. The roads are lined with concrete mosques and other residential and industrial structures, with intermittent scatterings of agriculture. Evidence of the large Hindu community that inhabits this city is scarce. The best thing to do is check in at a hotel and knock back some cold bottles of Bintang at a pool in preparation for the first big item on the East Java itinerary: Ijen.

The Ijen volcano complex is made up of a group of stratovolcanoes within a large caldera. The high plain contains 17 individual peaks consisting of active and extinct volcanoes. The largest of these is Mount Merapi, which, confusingly enough, shares the same name as two other volcanoes in Indonesia. But the real jewel of this plethora of geological activity is the Ijen crater itself. Within the wall of this vast crater lays the world’s largest highly acidic lake that stretches an entire kilometre from bank to bank.

The actual trek to the crater lake starts at about 3am when you jump into a hired car. The drive itself is about an hour and a half long (over some road that can easily be described as off-road) and takes you to the base of the volcano. From there it’s a moderately easy two-hour trek along a wide beaten path to the rim of the crater.

Once atop the rim, all exhaustion from the hike is delayed by a brilliant display of an epically giant bowl filled with liquid jade surrounded by rocky mountains.

Breathtaking views and geological wonders aside, Ijen also offers an industrial curiosity only seen where labour and life is relatively cheap. Men act as human mules to haul up to 100-kilogram loads of sulphur up to the rim from the bottom of the crater then several kilometres down. The miners use a stick of bamboo with two baskets attached which leaves a permanent groove of bone and muscle on their backs. They work in plumes of noxious sulphur without any respiratory protection and consequently have eyes red with irritation.

Once descended into the crater, everything is barren rock and life ceases to exist in such a hostile environment. Walking down into the crater takes care and patience – the path is steep and a moment of carelessness can easily lead to a fatal fall. If it weren’t for the respirator I packed, I most likely would have had to retreat from the sulphuric plumes of gas that turn away most hikers.

At the bottom, pipes spew both smoke and molten sulphur as if they were directly plugged into a fiery hell churning below your feet.

After an epic mountain adventure, it’s sometimes best to detach yourself by seeking completely different geography. I did this by eating at the beach in Blimbingsari where a collection of little warungs serve fresh grilled fish much like they do in Jimbaran.

With my protein level replenished thanks to some tasty fish, it was time to rehabilitate a worn out body by pre-emptively drinking more beer in the hotel pool as a precursor to a train ride to Malang early next morning.

As the crack of dawn descends upon me, morning prayers from nearby mosques welcome the morning silence. The single class train from Banyuwangi to Malang (and everywhere in between) leaves the station at 5:30am. Tickets are cheaper than dirt and the empty train looks like it’s going to be a comfortable journey with an entire booth to myself.

After about four stops, I couldn’t be more wrong. The train quickly swells with people and I’m instantly crammed in like a poor little sardine – for eight hours.
Vendors stroll up and down the train, trying to sell you everything from tofu to newspapers to lighters. Smokers fill the passenger cars with pungent streams of kretek smoke, and only small windows open to bring much anticipated fresh air at the whim of wind gusts. It soon becomes apparent that the best way to cope in that train is to hang out the constantly open doors with the cool breeze flowing as Javanese landscape whizzes by.

As the Malang station approaches, a Herculean feeling of relief flows through my entire body. Finally off that train, I hop on a becak (bicycle rickshaw) to a hotel to wash off my train-marinated body. The rickshaw struggles along and I instantly fear for the cardiac health of my very senior becak driver.

Malang is a collection of typical Indonesian cityscape, military installations, and Dutch colonial-era buildings. The cool temperature makes it instantly obvious why the Dutch flocked to Malang and their contributions can be seen everywhere. Colonial lampposts, bridges, and homes give the city a very distinct flavour. All places of interest can be toured on becak, which gives an almost austere feeling of modern colonialism.

Mount Bromo is a short two and a half hour drive by car from Malang. It is but one of the 21 peaks of Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park. The Tengger caldera itself is a remnant of a giant volcano where five younger volcanoes have sprouted up in a sea of sand. South of the Tengger complex lies mount Semeru, the tallest mountain in Java and in a state of near-constant eruption.

Mount Pananjakan is usually the first place to go when visiting the park. The touristy vantage point is easily accessible by car and only requires a mere ten-minute walk before you are able to overlook the entire Tengger Volcano Complex.
After Pananjakan, it’s a short drive to the sand sea (laut pasir) located within a cliff-enclosed bowl. The sand sea is flat and desolate: other then sparse grassy patches and the occasional shrub, it is completely featureless. It is essentially a black sand desert in the middle of jungle.

As the vehicle begins to approach the temple, which sits next to the entrance to Bromo, a gathering of cars appears in the distance. Suddenly you find yourself surrounded by a small swarm of horsemen eager to show off their skills. Upon arriving at the car park, the horse guides approach you and offer rides on their horses to the base of the concrete staircase that leads to the peak. You pass a large Hindu temple and plenty of horses on the way and it almost seems surreal, as if you’re passing by some alien temple on the moon with a bunch of colourful cowboys riding around you.

The cement stairway that leads to the top of the volcano rim looks misleadingly easy; but it is 250 steps of strenuous stairs that torture the thighs. At the peak, drink sellers are ready to quench your thirst amidst clouds of sulphur radiating from a large breach at the centre of the crater. Up there, you’re at the mercy of the wind, and when it’s being disagreeable, expect to experience the acrid taste of sulphur burning down your olfactory organs.

When the wind finally relents and blows in your favour, Bromo treats you to massive views of the surrounding caldera edge and the young peaks of juvenile volcanoes.

The view is surreal, as if you’re looking at a postcard. It’s both breathtaking and overwhelmingly condescending, which is not necessarily a bad thing in this case.
When you’ve taken in all the epic scenery possible for the average human being, Surabaya is a civilised three-hour drive away. Being the second largest city in Indonesia, Surabaya is a vast urban sprawl that serves as an important port and commercial centre. The city also has multiple daily flights back to Bali, so I end my little journey where I started.

what to bring

1. Good hiking shoes with decent tread
2. Warm jacket and clothes
3. Respirator with gas cartridges for acid gases (available at Ace Hardware)

where to stay

1. Mirah Hotel
   Jl Yos Sudarso, no. 28 Tanjung, Klatak, Banyuwangi
   T: 0333 420 600
   E: info@mirrahhotel.com
2. Hotel Helios
   Jl. Pattimura, no. 37, Malang
   T: 0341 362741

Pullquote:
“Within the wall of this vast crater lays the world’s largest highly acidic lake that stretches an entire kilometre from bank to bank.”-

Touched by Love

love is a verb. love heals. and who deserves more love than ourselves? and well, our loved ones. como shambhala estate and tea tree spa let you love yourself and others not only from the outside, but also from within

como shambhala estate

the look
Designed by Cheong Yew Kuan, the estate is a vast wellness compound swathed in all of nature’s elements. Located on hilly and grassy terrain, surrounded by the holy Ayung River, the energy of the property really resonates the moment you step foot on the grounds of the estate.

The spa is aptly named Ojas, a Sanskrit word meaning “essence of life”, alias a life-giving force. Sunken in a valley-esque location on the estate, the descending steps leading to the spa are straddled by two infinity pools.

A huge circular fountain centrepiece greets you as soon as you make your way down. Water (in all its sensory qualities) plays a major role at this place;
it is, after all, the most healing element Mother Nature has to offer.
the touch

COMO Shambhala promotes a holistic approach to wellbeing, meaning that you don’t come in for “merely” a spa treatment, but a complete systematic therapy programme, modified according to every individual’s needs. I came in for a relaxation programme, which started out with a morning dip in the estate’s Vitality Pool guided by a trained aqua-therapist. This pool is equipped with water-jets that have been constructed to provide exacting treatments, which means it is also beneficial for pain and fatigue relief, including jet lag and hangovers (yes, there IS a cure!).

A 90-minute signature massage (and inevitable ten-minute power nap) followed after the hour-long aqua therapy. The massage therapist, Chandra, used the power of her fingers, knuckles, wrists, elbows and forearms; quite a fulfilling touch for a massage. Also, it was a full-body approach, meaning everything from my scalp to my pinkie-toe was pampered, coddled and kneaded.

The touch was that akin to an iron, and as if my body were rumpled sheets that needed sprucing up from all the wrinkles, muscle wrinkles, that is.

the ingredients
As my treatment was one meant for relaxation, COMO Shambhala used ylang-ylang essential oils to smoothen out my knots.

the exceptional
COMO Shambhala Estate is the epitome of the term self-improvement. It’s the place to truly fall in love all over again with oneself, not only through pampered indulgence, but also through a proactive self-enhancement approach. For example, COMO Shambhala has a psychiatrist, nutritionist, Ayurvedic doctor and trained yogis and pilates coaches on duty, available on-call according to your treatment programme.

COMO Shambhala Estate,
PO Box 54, Ubud, T: 0361 978 888,
cse.comoshambhala.bz

tea tree spa

the look
Nestled in a quiet corner of the Kuta shoreline, Tea Tree Spa is home to a sprawl of cosy floating pavilions, all facing the ocean and interconnected by wooden bridges set among a beautiful garden, each housing a treatment room.

The couple’s treatment room contained two massage beds and a lofty bathtub, filled with red swirls of floating hibiscus flowers. There is an outdoor wooden patio facing the beach where cushy lounge sofas are arranged for the preparatory foot scrub and relaxation session prior to the four-course couples treatment.

the touch
Starting off with a de-stressing foot scrub on the outdoor patio, the therapists were very warm people and the aura was truly that of a romantic couples retreat. This foot-friendly interlude gave time for him and I to talk and connect in a relaxed environment.

A full body scrub followed inside the treatment room, where soothing background music filled the space and aromatic candles intensified the aura of ardour.

After the body scrub, we were granted a private session of quality time alone in the room, where a warm flower bath was prepared, complete with massage oils. The therapists told us to call them back in the room when we were ready for the next treatment, which was a full body massage.

Aside from the intimate connection inevitably felt by him and I, this part of the treatment is objectively the perfect ending to an intimate journey.

The bodyworkers were very thorough with tending to each tension-prone area of the body, focusing on the upper back, shoulder blades, lower back, shins and feet.
Their method of caress was somewhat shiatsu-like, with the therapist climbing up on the beds and using their standing force to further deliver a firmer – yet still gentle – massage.

the ingredients
I chose the rose milk body scrub, meant to tone, smooth and give the body a fragrant allure, and peppermint and lemongrass massage oil, meant to relax and balance the mind and body, whereas my partner chose the ground coffee body scrub, beneficial for getting rid of dead skin cells and cleansing that extra bit of grime from the body.

the exceptional
Known for its economical alternative for holiday accommodation, this Holiday Inn Resort is no different, and the Tea Tree Spa is definitely good value for your money. The location of the Spa and warm service of the staff are worth mentioning. Their selection of body scrubs is also remarkable, so you can customise and mix and match products according to the specific needs of your mind and body.

Tea Tree Spa Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali, Jl. Wana Segara, no. 33, Tuban, T: 0361 755 577

The Art of Island Wooing

sunset cocktails and candlelit dinners might all be very well for valentine’s day, but here, on the island, dear don juans and mae wests, you’ve really got to show a little more imagination: cocktails and candlelight are de rigueur every day of the year here, after all

Woo your lover with your mind by thinking up something a little out of the ordinary to do. If something below isn’t actually on the day itself, give a little hand-made voucher pledging to redeem it when the time is right; and then, of course, offer cocktails and a candlelit dinner. Here are ten alternative ideas that might just improve your love life:

set sail while the sun rises
Hire a colourful local sailing boat from one of the bowl-helmet clad boatmen along sleepy Sanur beach to enjoy the pastel-coloured sky as the sun peeks behind distant, white-cliffed Nusa Penida. Pack a thermos of coffee and a few croissants to munch on as you and your beloved enjoy the views. The insect-like traditional boats will use sail if there’s enough wind, otherwise you’ll chug along using the engine.

Another fine spot to watch the big sky’s baby pinks and blues melt away is from Amed. With Lombok in the distance, watch your boatman trawl for fish as you tell your lover you’ve already snared the catch of the day. Wherever you head, organise the boat the day before, so you can be sure your boatman will be there right before dawn. Negotiate the full price and length of time you’ll be out beforehand, too. For Sanur, expect to pay around Rp. 200,000 per hour, though of course it all depends on your negotiating skills. Amed should be slightly cheaper.

get physical while the sun sets
Impress your beau with your knowledge of Bali’s best beaches and head to Balangan on the Bukit for a sunset walk, heart-to-heart and a back-to-basics beer at one of the half-dozen or so bamboo warungs.

This excellent surfing beach has long been on surfers’ maps but it still feels like an adventure to get here. These days it’s quickly changing. You’ll be able to head back one day, say after your first child is born, and reminisce about back-in-the-day.

Alternatively, ride into the sunset along Batu Belig beach on a couple of horses booked ahead of time from Umalas Equestrian Resort. The pounding of hooves into the volcanic sand, the vivid sky, and the thundering surf...you get the idea. A two-hour beach tour will set you back US$ 72 per person. (www.balionhorse.com)

have a whirlwind romance
Bali is amazing at ground level, but even more so viewed from above. To really knock the socks off that someone special, charter a helicopter to whisk you both away into the big blue. Get a completely different perspective on those dramatic volcanoes, enamelled lakes and paddies, beaches, ancient temples in impossible locations and towering white cliffs.

Air Bali has charter flights starting at US$ 990 for a 30-minute flight down to Uluwatu, for a maximum of four people. At that price, you may want to make it a double date, but either way you’ll be conjuring a priceless memory to last a lifetime. You may want to progress to one of the quieter suggestions on this list if you’re thinking of popping that lifetime question though, as it’ll be a little too noisy on board for whispering sweet nothings. And of course, make sure ahead of time that you check on whether the object of your desire is afraid of heights. (www.airbali.com)

learn about the birds and the bees
Lace up your hiking boots (or not – the boss does these walks in bare feet) and head to the breathtaking hills of Ubud with Victor Mason and his eagle-eyed sidekick Wayan Sumadi. Binoculars and lover in hand, wander with the pair on an enlightening walking tour through the paddy, wetlands, plantation and remaining old-growth forest jungle, pointing out birds, butterflies, dragonflies, interesting plants and all sorts of intriguing natural oddities.

Revive along the way by sipping a young green coconut via a hand-fashioned straw. British-born Victor and Balinese Su have been running the offbeat walks since 1993 and their banter and exhaustive knowledge of the area will impress, well, whomever it is you’re trying to impress. (www.balibirdwalk.com)

listen to the sounds of silence
Yes, you’re in love: Gaze adoringly into each other’s eyes, not even murmuring words of endearment but simply, silently floating on air...well, in water.
Buddy up with your beau and take the plunge diving for a date with a little drama. You’ll need to have appropriate certification to go on a scuba dive to any of the truly interesting dive sites, so either take an entry level course if you haven’t got your card or try an introductory dive, which allows you to glimpse the underwater world under the watchful eyes of instructors.

If that all seems like too much effort, consider snorkelling - when that big scary fish glides past you’ll have the perfect excuse to hold hands. Scuba Duba Doo offers snorkelling safaris and introductory dives as well as the PADI open-water course. (www.divecenterbali.com)

scream and shout and then make out
Bali Treetop Adventure Park at Bedugul is set amid towering – you guessed it – trees. Corporate groups use the park for team building exercises but individuals can also strap on the safety gear and get high – as high as 20 metres. You’ll flit from tree to tree using suspended bridges, spider nets, flying foxes, swings and other tortuous looking devices. It looks a lot easier than it actually is, so you’ll probably have a few arguments working out how to get to the end of the course – think Amazing Race, without the cameras – but then you’ll have the rest of the evening to make it up to each other.

Walk-in cost is US$ 20 per person. Too daunting? Sedate strawberry picking at one
of the Bedugul farms might instead bring out your best inner Jane Austen character.
(www.balitreetop.com)

picnic in the park
Pack a picnic hamper of wine, cheese, breads, dips and pastries (a one-stop shop such as the Bali Catering Company or Bali Deli will do the trick) and dine al fresco, sans sand. That’s right, forget about the beach and head instead to verdant Bedugul Botanical Gardens for a spacious spread of lawn as well as an array of exotic plants.

A world away from paddy and surf, this cool spot is popular with picnicking locals but is so sprawling you’re bound to find a quiet corner to yourselves. If you do insist on a beachside picnic, hire an open-air VW with a driver, don scarves and sunnies and zip over to tucked away Whitesand Beach (Pasir Putih). Volks World offers full day trips for Rp. 450,000, including driver.

get wiped out
Of course, your lover already metaphorically wiped you out when you met, but how about experiencing the real deal together? Surfing after all is at heart all about the romance: the romance of the ocean, the romance of the crashing waves, the romance of being all alone when you catch that perfect tube.

Rip Curl School of Surf offers a range of learn-to-surf classes, including private lessons you could arrange for two (one 75-minute class costs US$ 100 for one person).

An alternative wipe-out might be white-water rafting on the Ayung River in Ubud. You’ll need to join with others for your adventure but amid the scenery – slicing through volcanic foothills draped with rainforest – and the adrenaline rush, you’ll only have eyes for you-know-who. Sobek organises two-hour expeditions for two costing US$79 per person.
(www.schoolofsurf.com, T: 0361 735 858)
(www.balisobek.com)

beat a retreat
Ingredients: One small bag, one lover and one cleansing, spiritual hideaway. Directions: Mix for several days, with dashes of yoga, swimming and massage. Recipe for: A truly reconnected couple ready to face the world united again.
Magical Desa Seni, an array of individual houses shipped from around the Indonesian archipelago nestled in the rice fields of Canggu, offers regular yoga classes as well as an array of spiritual classes and retreats listed on their website. Their food is mostly organic, mostly vegetarian, and much of it comes directly from their garden.

Spend time unwinding, retuning your bodies and getting in touch with each other again. A lower budget option but in the same vein is mountainside Prana Dewi, which offers regular yoga and meditation retreats along with organic food. (www.desaseni.com)
(www.balipranaresort.com)

let the love flow free
Forget boring old ordinary sensual massages at spas overlooking the sea. Take an intelligent approach to massage and use it to unblock any energy bottlenecks in your body, helping not just your romantic life, but your holistic self.

Ketut Arsana, a Balinese Mahatma therapist, is the founder of Ubud’s renowned Bodyworks, where physical, mental and spiritual healing is the order of the day. Book well ahead of time for consecutive half-hour massages including chakra healing with the master himself for Rp. 550,000.

Chakras are energy centres in the spine, with each of the seven chakras representing major areas of life as well as physical reactions in parts of the body. Chakra healing will clear any blocked energy, allowing the chakras, and therefore the person, to function as completely as possible. Read between the lines, people!
(www.ubudbodyworkscentre.com)

Pura Luhur Uluwatu - Beautiful and Sacred

One of Bali’s holiest temples is not only majestic but also offers a spectacular and sweeping view of the Indian Ocean and, of course, stunning sunsets.

Arguably the most spectacular Hindu temple on the island of Bali, Pura Luhur Uluwatu is perched majestically about 80 meters above sea level on the edge of a steep cliff at the southern part of Bali.

Pura Luhur Uluwatu, a classic expression of ancient Bali, is regarded as one of the six main temples in Bali.

It is one of the Sad Kahyangan Temple in Bali (six big groups of Bali temples) and is situated in Pecatu Village, the sub-district of South Kuta, Badung Regency, about 25 km south of Denpasar.

Pura means temple while luhur is “something of divine origin”.

Uluwatu is actually two words combined into one; ulu is “land’s end” and watu means “rock” in the island’s old language.

The area is open to public, so it is not uncommon for its parking lot to be inundated by giant buses transporting tourists from all over the world. But they come not only for the temple but also for the stunning panorama and the to-die-for sunsets.

Dedicated to the spirits of the sea, the famous temple is an architectural marvel built with black coral rocks.

Built in the eleventh century during the era of Empu Kuturan, Pura Luhur Uluwatu is one of the oldest temples in Bali.

(Empu is a title denoting the person’s excellence in literature, philosophy and craftsmanship.)

Some five centuries later a priest, Dang Hyang Niraratha, rebuilt it to what you see today.

The temple is so sacred that up to the turn of the 20th century it is said that only the princes of Denpasar were allowed to worship there.

A word of caution: Monkeys, always on the lookout for a free bite, abound here, and warning signs remind visitors about their aggressiveness, which can manifest in their going after your sunglass or camera.

There are two ways to reach the temple; the first is taking the steep path along the cliff, while the second is to enter from the candi bentar (gate), festooned with carvings that have become the landmark of the island.

After going through an open central courtyard, you reach the main gate which has two ganeshas (elephant-headed guardian statues) one on each side.

On the left and right of the main gate are shrines, astasari (for festival offerings), a shrine dedicated to Dang Hyang Nirartha, and several other shrines, called bale tajuk, for spiritual guardians of Nirartha–all of them impressive in their own right.

Another but smaller courtyard is in store before you reach the three-tiered pagoda Meru, which is dedicated to Nirartha who, as legend has it, achieved self-enlightenment here.

Best time to visit the temple is during weekdays and before sunset time. This is when the place is tranquil, allowing you more time to explore what is considered to be one of Bali’s most important temples, and to contemplate.

It is also the time when you can watch dolphins and turtles in the sea.

The downside, of course, is that you will miss the sunset, which is actually just as beautiful elsewhere in Bali.

While you’re there, make time to visit the beach, considered to be one of Bali’s best surfing spots.

Treasure Hunting in Ubud

Ubud has been a shopping stop for decades. It has always been the place for handicrafts - wood carvings, Lombok pottery, puppets, masks, ceramics and other traditional items could be found in the many little shops lining the town's few streets or at the main market.

But things are changing in Ubud. All these goodies are still available, but now a growing number of upscale boutiques offer exciting alternatives. The town has become a treasure chest of collectibles. Many are produced locally in limited quantities for export while others may only be found in small galleries when stock is available. Others are samples and one-offs that will never be found again. But one thing is certain -- shoppers who go treasure hunting in Ubud will not be disappointed. Reliable packing and shipping services mean that there is no excuse not to send those treasures home.

Dek's Studio is owned by Kadek Gunarta, an Ubud craftsman who travels regularly to Java to purchase old teak from traditional houses that are being knocked down for modern buildings. He brings ancient teak doors, walls, plough handles, fences, ship's planking and loose boards to his Ubud workshop to fashion into stunning furniture. The finely joined and finished pieces incorporate the 'warts and all' character of lived-in old wood. Kadek's commitment to recycling also reflects his reverence for traditional motifs and workmanship. Contact Kadek at 0812 3830 953.

Hananto Wibowo, features exquisite old Javanese pieces hand-picked from private collections at Hananto Lloyd Gallery. Located near Four Seasons Hotel in Sayan, it showcases interesting collectibles from Indonesia and elsewhere in the region.

Indonesia's intricate textiles are always popular and Studio 22k has one of Bali's leading textile collections. Although the gallery includes a variety of textiles from around the archipelago, it is probably best known for its very high quality batik, including museum- quality specimens and vegetable-dyed batiks from the 1930s. Ricka, the owner, is always happy to spend time educating visitors about textiles and local culture in general. Studio 22k is located on Jalan Raya Ubud next to the entrance of Oka Kartini Hotel.

The Buddhas and Silk Gallery in the Panorama Hotel complex on Jalan Pengosekan brings together an extensive collection of Buddha and Hindu images and hand-loomed silks. Images are rendered in stone, wood, glass, bronze and semi-precious stone ranging from one centimetre to 1.5 metres and are bought directly from the carvers whenever possible. Hand- woven silk is an ancient and refined art in most Buddhist countries where processes of spinning, dying and weaving the silk are meditatively slow, creating a gentle energy that remains in the cloth.

Whenever possible, the hand-loomed silks are bought directly from the weavers or from cooperatives and organizations committed to supporting the artists, to sustainability and to natural dyes. The gallery has silks from co-operatives in Cambodia, Thailand and some are dyed and hand-woven by AZURI in Ubud. It also sells the spectacular wearable art of designer Rana Helmi whose one-of-a-kind reversible jackets and coats are created from patches of silk and batik, for wear during day or evening.

High in the hills above Ubud is the kiln of Sariapi, the Essence of Fire. Here Swiss-born Suzan Kohlik creates unique porcelain tableware, vases and art pieces. Inspired by the Japanese tradition of creating a perfect piece of pottery and then rendering it imperfect, Suzan's collection is a delightful medley of colours and forms. The functional items use food-safe glazes, and she experiments with unusual glazes on the decorative pieces. Sariapi Gallery adjoins the Juice Ja on Jalan Dewi Sita.

The Pure Land Gallery on Jl Dewi Sita has a collection of hand- painted Tibetan thangkas from Nepal which can be purchased unmounted or framed in traditional silk brocade. The knowledgeable staff is happy to explain each piece, or to allow shoppers to sit quietly on the floor cushions and soak in the serene ambience. Cute and quirky men's and women's shoes and bags can be found at Sasorizacraft Shoe Shop - just up from Batan Waru. It's not uncommon to hear squeals of delight emerging from the little shop as visitors of all genders discover the treasures within. The brothers who own the business are friendly and flexible, and can make you new shoes to measure in just a few days. Renee Ariel, of Goddess Silks, has exquisite hand-painted silk kimonos, jackets and scarves featuring deities and metaphysical motifs which can take over 60 hours to complete. She also offers classes in silk painting at her Ubud studio. Pieces are available by private order or call the studio at telephone 08123 978 098 for an appointment.

There are many other treasures waiting to be discovered in Ubud's many boutiques, so sharpen up your credit card and go shopping!

Lost in Time - Candi Dasa

from a pristine white sand beach to a secluded - and not to mention genuinely untouched - village, candidasa holds many a charm that can truly complement the area’s claim as “old bali”

Ireside in the island’s cesspit of modern tourism, sunburned bodies and capitalism, in the area also known as Kuta (yes, exactly), so when I was offered a chance to explore a patch of the island that is dubbed as “old Bali” by many, I jumped to the occasion and packed my bags in a record-breaking five minutes.

Candidasa, previously known as Teluk Kehen (which translates as Bay of Fire), is located on the north-eastern coast of Bali, and even though it’s the most modernised section of the area, it’s still relatively untouched and a pleasant getaway from the depraving kitsch of the 21st century.

First on my list was a trip to Virgin Beach (Desa Perasi), aptly named and purely unspoiled. Think white sand and azure waters, in its absolute epitome. Of course, untouched doesn’t necessarily mean completely secluded and devoid of hawker food stalls and lounging chairs, but these circumstances aren’t obnoxiously in-your-face, and are more of a useful factor rather than a nuisance. The waves are gentle (even for you grommets) and the beach is complete soft sand merged with coral where the water starts and land ends. A perfect spot to simply lie back and let time drift by unnoticed.

To further press my objective of escaping contemporary chaos, I headed to Desa Tenganan, a village established before the first millennium, where modernism only exists in the form of “Dora the Explorer” knock-off T-shirts on some of the children and the occasional motorbike parked to the side of the enclosed village.

Somewhat reminiscent of M Night Shyamalan’s “The Village”, this particular village is a self-sourcing, independent community, complete with its own government, traditions, crop field and cattle (in abundance, might I add), and bendesa (Balinese for village leader).

That’s not to say that no outside influence whatsoever has infiltrated the settlement, but those who have married outside the “tribe” are considered cast-offs and aren’t included in the coordinated distribution of basic needs such as rice and housing. Up to date, there are 28 “purebred” families left from the total of 250 families living inside the small town.

Another unique distinction in Tenganan Village is the double ikat (handwoven cloth) that take more than three years to produce, for each one-and-a-half metre long fabric. This is because the thread is handmade from organic cotton harvested from their own village (where else?) and tinted with all natural dyes made from turmeric, indigo juice and other seeds. The creation process itself takes approximately three to four weeks.

The making of these weavings are considered sacred, as are the weavings themselves, and each symbol on the fabric has a meaning. The most recurrent symbol is the scorpion, which signifies power, invincibility and self-control. Also, the symbols of the square cross, representing balance of the soul.

Another historical must-see while in the Candidasa area is Tirtagangga Water Palace (www.tirtagangga.nl), a majestic complex built in 1946 composed of flowing streams, lush greenery and elegant sculptures, which might remind you of a Hindu version of the beautiful fountains at Versailles or Babylon.

Owned by the Royal Family of Karangasem, this palace is located in the midst of a paddy field and gets its water from the natural Rejasa springs. The water from the springs at Tirtagangga is considered to be holy and is collected for ceremonies at nearby temples. The name Tirtagangga, itself, is derived from root words tirta (blessed water) and the Ganges River, considered to be a holy body of water in India.

From the rustic core of an ancient civilization to a lush water palace, I then proceeded to Alila Manggis Resorts (Buitan, Karangasem; T: 0363 41011, www.alilahotels.com/manggis), a very contrasting atmosphere to say the least. I was scheduled to attend the Alila Manggis Seafood Cooking School, which took place right by the beach at the resort, in the garden. Sweet.

I was guided by cooking guru Penny Williams, the executive chef at Alila Manggis, and (surprisingly) successfully created a six-course Balinese meal consisting of sate ikan lilit (fish satay on lemongrass skewers), cumi cumi isi bumbu Bali (braised squid filled with chopped prawn), pepes Ikan (fish wrapped in banana leaf), kare ikan dan udang (fish and prawn curry), lawar don tabie bun (Bali long pepper leaf salad with grated coconut and prawns), ending with a sweet dessert called dadar (rolled pancakes filled with fresh coconut and palm sugar).

The cooking process started after Penny thoroughly explained each ingredient to me, encouraging me to taste, touch and smell everything from turmeric, to shrimp paste, to lemongrass and many more.

The cooking school program usually begins with a fishing trip in the waters surrounding the resort, teeming with marine life, and where guests cook what they catch (although there is a back up fish supply at Alila if you’re unlucky in snatching a competent fish to cook).

Having never cooked before, I was pessimistic about the outcome, but having all the ingredients measured out beforehand by a sous chef and having Penny take me through the very hands-on cooking steps proved to be extremely useful; afterwards, I was awarded with a copy of the recipes, an Alila Cooking School apron, very satisfied tastebuds, and a knowledge of food and spices that I hope to master one day.

For a more laid-back foodie paradise, and one where you need not get down and dirty in the kitchen beforehand, try out the Candidasa Nightmarket and
have grilled corn on the cob smeared with a spicy Balinese concoction right in front of the beach, or head over to Vincent’s (Jl. Raya Candidasa; www.vincentsbali.com) for a hearty meal and cool cocktails accompanied
by jazzy tunes. I recommend ordering the green mussels (Rp. 45,000) with a side of their signature cocktail called the White Lion (Rp. 65,000), topped off with Vincent’s cake (Rp. 45,000), which is basically layers of different textured chocolates stacked on one plate; need I say more?

From spiritual enlightenment to natural wonders to culinary finesse, Candidasa obviously has heaps to offer. I just hope its “old Bali” image stays old and its pristine beaches stay pristine and time remains lost in its crystal clear waters and antediluvian culture.

Wonderful of Denpasar

It may not be a camera-lens friendly place, but don’t be fooled, Bali’s capital city has its perks; you just have to know where to look. From a museum of Bali’s history, to hidden culinary and coffee treasures, and an eclectic shopping haven, we go deep city diving to discover Denpasar.

1 four-faced beauty at puputan square
The famous Patung Catur Mukha (which literally translates into ‘the Statue with Four Faces’) is located right smack dab in the middle of Puputan Square and is an image of the God of the Four Directions.

Puputan is a ritual akin to the Japanese hara-kiri (what better way to die than with honour and in your own hands, eh?) and this ritual took place in 1906 when the Dutch seized control of the land and the great King of Badung ordered a mass suicide as their art of war. The fallen heroes of this honourable affair are standing in stone at the Puputan Square.

Try not to visualise this gruesome yet historic event and consider Puputan Square as the key point of orientation of the whole city, meaning that if you ever get lost wandering the streets of Denpasar, this is the spot you should get back to as it is located on the city’s main street, and everyone in Denpasar will know the way to get back here.

There is also an occasional Gong Kebyar Parade that takes place in this square, so be on the lookout for that. (Jalan Gajah Mada)

2 the historical story of bali
You can probably tell from the melting pot of sensations when you first step foot on the island that Bali’s history is an intricate, interesting and tumultuous one.

To experience a rush of time travel and witness the development of Balinese culture and how it became what it is now, visit the Bali Museum in Denpasar.
The museum was built in 1931 by architect P.J. Moojen and is located near to the former Denpasar palace that was burnt down to the ground by Dutch invaders during the turmoil that took place in 1906.

This museum showcases art and historical artefacts that weave the tale of the Island of the Gods, and the building is divided into four sections which displays a different array of Balinese relics: the Tabanan section stores masks and musical instruments used in theatrical performances, Karangasem displays sculptures and paintings, the Buleleng area showcases textiles and last but definitely not least, the Timur section holds a collection of archaeological finds.
(Jalan Mayor Wisnu, open 8.00 am until 3.00 pm daily, closed on Saturdays)

3 shopping paradise
The word ‘Denpasar’ literally means ‘by the market’ so it’s no surprise that one of the most pulsing markets in Bali resides in the island’s capital. Pasar Badung is thrift-shopping heaven, filled with quirks and perks in a 5-storey establishment, open 24 hours, for the avid market-delver.

Even though Pasar Badung is the main pasar in the area, the whole of Denpasar is basically a place of trade (this is, again, where the name of the city originated), so you’ll find heaps of markets and shops, big and small, obvious and obscure, vibrant and listless, lining the streets of Denpasar.

To purchase textiles and Balinese batik by the meter, head over to the Kampung Arab on Jalan Sulawesi, and also go to Jalan Kedondong to find unique shops selling nothing else but unique things (we randomly stumbled upon a custom traditional drum-maker on this street, so try your luck in this area).
If you have no time for a market spree, Pasar Badung itself is enough to quench your thirst for transaction, guaranteed, or check out the adjacent pasar called Pasar Kumbasari which also sells an array of curios.
(Pasar Badung, Jalan Gajah Mada)

4 artistic endeavours
The Bali Werdhi Budaya Art Center spans over 5 hectares of land and was designed by Ida Bagus Tugur, a prominent Balinese architect who also designed the National Art Gallery in Jakarta.

This vast arts centre is the largest cultural centre to have been built until now, and it is just that: a huge centre of cultural expression, starting from performances to paintings to sculptures and anything that can be qualified as cultural art. The main attraction is an open-air amphitheatre, the Ardha Chandra, which occasionally hosts theatrical performances and dances, complete with towering temple gates, impressively breathtaking full-moon effects and a 600-people seating capacity.

In this complex, the Dewi Ratih Building, used during The Bali Art Festival, displays architectural aesthetics and various exhibitions, mostly photographic. There is also an indoor theatre called the Ksirarnawa which seats 800 people. We could go on and on about this arts complex, but with art, you’ll have to see it to believe it.
(Jalan Nusa Indah, visiting hours 8am to 5pm, Tuesday to Sunday)

5 a steaming cup o’ Joe
Coffee culture has lost its sentimental value since the simultaneous appearance of all these generic coffee shop franchises (you know which we’re talking about), but fear not, coffee lovers! In the heart of Denpasar lies an authentic coffee shop, established by the Tjahjadi family since 1935, which was originally called Bian Ek. They changed their name to BHINEKA JAYA KOPI BALI and their coffee has been exported to international markets due to their high-quality and unique flavours. They’ve even coined the term ‘The Coffee Legend’ in Bali for their taste.

Now, the originally quaint coffee shop has grown into a well-known bean-brew parlour, and provides brews from Toraja, Mandailing, Java, Kenya, Italy and Columbia.
(Jalan Gajah Mada 80, T: 0361 720 589)

6 the enchanting palace
Bali is divided into areas, and each area harbours its own King. Puri Satria is the palace of the King of Denpasar and it’s open for public exhibition. This palace was re-built in 1930 and every 210 days, an anniversary celebration is held at the royal grounds. At Puri Satria, there is an open-air pendopo that was used as a meeting spot for all the Kings of Bali back in its heyday.

If you want to actually sleep like royalty, you can go to Pemecutan Palace, built in the 17th century and managed by the last King of Denpasar, Ida Cokorda Pemecutan, where guests can stay and pretend to be royalty, even if it’s only for one night.
(Puri Satria, Jalan Veteran; Pemecutan Palace, Jalan Thamrin 2)

7 temple of divine deities
Bali and temples seem to be two inseparable things, because spirituality is a major influence in Balinese culture. Located in Denpasar, the Jagatnatha Temple is a sight that’ll enlighten your senses.

Deriving its name from the Sanskrit word ‘jagat’, meaning world, this temple is devoted to Sanghyang Widhi Wasa, exclaimed to be the supreme at divine gatherings. The shrine of Pura Jagatnatha is perched on a turtle, signifying one of the divine forms of the Hindu god Vishnu, and an air of grandiose can be felt in the atmosphere surrounding this temple.

Each month, on every full moon and new moon, a celebration is held on temple grounds. Make sure to visit during the festivities and you’ll definitely come home with a spiritual, if not memorable, experience.
(Jalan Mayor Wisnu)

The Best of Nusa Dua

From a museum, to a spaceship and a spa of butterflies, Nusa Dua has it all. One of Bali’s most exclusive areas is also about to hold its 13th cultural festival this month. We celebrate by feasting on the best that the peninsula has to offer.

Get wrapped in mud
Going to a spa these days takes courage. Over are the days when a spa visit only includes a gentle massage, a sauna and a flower bath. More spa goers mean more spa openings and this means more money for research and development. If you consider yourself a spa connoisseur, then getting wrapped in mud is something you live for. The Black Moor mud is known for its healing characteristics. When you get your skin scrubbed with aromatic and warm Moor mud and then have it wrapped all over you for about half and hour, your skin immediately becomes very smooth. Add that with a fine massage and you know you're going to come back again next month. (The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 327, www.luxurycollection.com/bali)

Ditch your kids
But this is only because we know The Westin Kids Club is one of the best on the island. The resort has developed all-round facilities and services where your offspring are well taken care of and fully entertained. They have art classes for your kids to learn how to make simple handicrafts and appreciate Balinese culture, or even fishing. Longing for a peaceful breakfast without your kids running around, screaming and making a mess all over? The Westin has gone as far as providing special kids section at breakfast which for some people is the ingredient that makes a perfect morning cup of coffee. (The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, BTDC area Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 906, www.starwoodhotels.com)

Ride a camel
They can't possibly bring a desert to a beach in Bali, but they can bring the camels. These animals might not look as handsome as studs, but they are surely fun to ride, especially on the beach and then through a traditional village. Both the morning and afternoon rides are almost equally entertaining, but keep in mind that it could get really hot up there when the sun is in full blow. The sunset tour is best because it can keep your sweat level to the minimum. (Nikko Bali Resort and Spa, Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan T: 0361 773 377, www.nikkobali.com)

Sip the island's best Bloody Mary
At St Regis Bali Resort, they call it Bali Mary and it's truly merry. Coming here with an empty stomach is not recommended because you might end up drinking glasses after glasses of this tasty drink for your lunch. The vodka, spices and tomato juice are mixed together so well that this drink feels so crunchy you almost want to chew instead of sip. Luckily, the bartenders have mercy on you and provide you with a piece of cucumber. What's the recipe you ask? Absolute Pepper, jicama, cucumber, brown sugar, tomato juice, lemon and a variety of spices of which content is we can't reveal. For the best experience, come for a sunset drink and enjoy it while watching the resort's regular fire dance performance. (The St. Regis Bali Resort, Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot S6, T: 0361 847 8111, www.stregis.com/bali)

Holiday like a celebrity
No, it doesn't mean jet-setting with a diet of champagne and cigarettes, but stay in a zen-like environment and eat healthily, just like Sting and Donna Karan. The Balé's villas can soothe your mind simply by handsomely standing there. The whole complex has been designed to look more like a modern temple with a world class spa equipped with a comprehensive health menu. If that's not enough, their signature restaurant Faces also has a Wellness Corner menu. Be sure to try the light yet flavourful organic quinoa salad with nashi ear, papaya relish, toasted almonds and curry vinaigrette. (The Balé, Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, T: 0361 775 111, www.thebale.com)

Whack balls
Releasing stress is sometimes not just about relaxing. There's only so much sunbathing and going to a spa can do for you. For the rest, golf is the answer. Designed by Nelson Wright, the 18-hole course at Bali Golf and Country Club is considered as one of the best in Asia. The windy nature of the Nusa Dua area is just the challenge you need to prove to yourself and most importantly, your golf buddies (of course!), that you are the best at whacking balls and putting them into tiny holes. There is a Balinese-style clubhouse for the post game drinks, but if you can't wait that long, try asking for two caddies. One to carry your golf stuff and another one to carry your drinks and to make sure the glasses are bottomless.(Bali Golf & Country Club, Kawasan Wisata Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 791, www.baligolfandcountryclub.com)

Dine in outer space
Tetaring restaurant in Kayumanis Nusa Dua was designed and made by aliens. Yes, this is a blatant lie, but it could have been for its futuristic looks. The architects here have managed to combine glass and bamboo panels so perfectly that you are under the illusion of dining inside a spaceship. Their food however, isn't alien as they are guaranteed to please the human palate. Farther inside the complex, their villas are also equally excellently designed. Popular for honeymoon couples, the best thing about staying here is the privacy. Kayumanis Nusa Dua doesn't accept children and even when the complex is full, you can hardly see the other guests.(Kayumanis Nusa Dua, BTDC Area Nusa Dua T: 0361 770 777, www.kayumanis.com)

Eat modern Indonesia food
The best Indonesian foods are often the ones you find on the side of the streets. But while the foods out there are indeed mouth-watering, you also need to have the right stomach for it. If you have just arrived on the island, you might want to stay away and be kind to your tummy. Instead, go for the safe option and enjoy modern Indonesian dishes in a posh setting. Chef de Cuisine Ida Bagus Oka's five-course set menu is a great introduction to this type of Indonesian dishes. But if you want to choose from the menu, we recommend you to start with the oxtail soup and have the Sate Besar as your main course.(The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort and Spa, Nusa Dua, Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771327, www.luxurycollection.com/bali)

Live like a king
To become a king is difficult. Prince Charles might have the pleasure one day, but even he can't get the guarantee. So you need to marry the Queen of England where the possibility of which is next to nil. Still, you can live like one easily in Nusa Dua. The Royal Residence at Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa is owned by the Sultan of Brunei and this is where he resides whenever he's in Bali. However, for most of the year when the king isn't around, the residence is available for rent. Lie down on the massive four-post bed that looks truly striking and get a taste of the royal comfort everybody has been dreaming about for all of their lives. Who knows it might be contagious. (Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa, BTDC area Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 210, www.nusaduahotel.com)

Be cultured
Every year, there are noises usually coming out of the amphitheatre at Nusa Dua. When it does, you're in luck because that means there is a feast of culture in the area. Now in its 13th year, the Nusa Dua Fiesta will be held from October 17-21. Unfortunately, the cool amphitheatre is not going to be used as much as before. This year, most activities will be held on the Nusa Gede Island and the organiser has promised a colossal Balinese dance performance for all to marvel at on the opening day. There will also be daily Indonesian traditional performing art shows at the newly-built stage on the tiny island. For detailed schedule, check out their website: fiesta.balinusaduaresort.com

Be a shopaholic
It's an accepted notion that shopping gives instant gratification. What happens after you receive your credit card bill later on is a bridge you only cross when you really have to. Those who know Nusa Dua well is aware of the fact that there is actually good shopping in the area. Bali Collection offers a wide variety of goods from evening cocktail outfit to jewellery, cheap tourist tats, books, sporting goods to food. Yes, food. There are plenty of good restaurants and bars available inside the open-air complex should you decide you need more energy and encouragement to swipe your card.

Get married in a pyramid
Not a real pyramid of course, but inside the remarkable triangular structure made by glass called Infinity located at Conrad Bali. It seats 60 people so it's big enough for an intimate yet lavish wedding ceremony. This wedding venue is ideally located by the beach so you get a great view of the Indian Ocean while pledging unconditional love to your significant other. Should you want to go more traditional, the Water Garden, also in the vicinity of Conrad Bali is an alternative option. (Conrad Bali, Jl. Pratama 168, Tanjung Benoa, T: 0361 778 788, www.conradhotels.com)

Try Nusa Dua's newest Sushi bar
Japanese cuisine enthusiasts in Bali can be happy and excited with the fact that more and more excellent Japanese restaurants have been opened here. Let's just hope the good news reaches the ears of chef Nobu and convince him to open a restaurant on the island. But until then, let's welcome the latest addition to Bali's world of Japanese eateries. The Royal Santrian has only recently opened its doors to public, but its hip Sushi bar has already been going places. The chef improvises daily creating new Sushi rolls for guests. Imagine the variety and type of rolls available at the bar. Be one of the first to have a bite! (The Royal Santrian, Jl. Pratama Tanjung Benoa, Nusa Dua, T: 0361 778 181, www.theroyalsantrian.com)

Join the local water games
The main Nusa Dua tourist complex offers a decent range of beach activities. But the real fun is located a bit farther down in Tanjung Benoa. Known as the centre for water sports in Bali, this area offers a whole new level of water-related adrenaline-pumpers. Brave yourself and try out the parasailing facilities or see if you can still look cool on water playing wake and knee boarding. If you simply want to feel roaring engines in between your legs, there are plenty of jetskis around to satisfy your needs. For a wide variety of such sports that even include coral/deep fishing tour, head down to Conrad Bali. (Conrad Bali, Jl. Pratama 168, Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 778 788, www.conradhotels.com)

Pamper yourself at the spa of butterflies
The Remède Spa at St. Regis Bali is a beautiful and massive complex surrounded by a koi pond. If you arrive after sunset you get to be welcomed by luminous rectangular rocks placed tastefully at the lobby. After that, walking to your treatment room, you'll start to think that you're seeing butterflies and moon everywhere. Don't panic. It's not something you might have eaten or drunk, it's just one of the interesting features in this posh spa. Inspired by the Indian Poet, Kabir (1398-1448), who wrote “the moon shines in my body”, a moon and butterfly theme runs through the spa facilities and with sophisticated lighting, they have somehow managed to make these butterflies look to be gently fluttering around. If you only have time to try one treatment here, ask for the one that uses vodka. Are you starting to get butterflies in your stomach now? (The St. Regis Bali Resort, Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot S6, T: 0361 847 8111, www.stregis.com/bali)

Appreciate art
On this island, when you think about museums and art, you think about Ubud. But it turns out that even in posh Nusa Dua you can still go and stare at a painting for hours. Museum Pasifika is quite new, it's only opened in 2006, but it already boasts over 600 works on permanent display. On top of showcasing fine works by Indonesian artists, the museum also displays works from other international artists whose works carry similar theme, Asia and the Pacific. When you're done analysing the paintings, there is a little stand at the lobby where you can buy a book about all the arts inside. As the museum rarely gets busy, it really is a nice break from all the shopping and partying one seem to always do in this area. (Museum Pasifika, BTDC Area, Blok P, T: 0361 774 935, 774 624, Opens daily from 10am – 6pm, Admission fee is IDR 60,000, www.museum-pasifika.com)