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Astor Ballroom, The St Regis Bali Resort: Karat Caviar and Champagne Duval-Leroy dinner with a special menu created by executive chef Oscar Perez. The affair starts with a cocktail and canapé reception at King Cole Bar, which is then followed by a six-course dinner at Astor Ballroom. Rp. 2,250,000 nett, T: 0361 300 6114
Bella Singaraja Restaurant, InterContinental Bali Resort: Italian dinner – antipasti buffet and classic pasta mains – with 50 per cent off on all house wines and…a singing chef! Rp. 260,000++ per person for dinner only, 6.30-10pm,
T: 0361 701 888
Café Lagoon, The Laguna Nusa Dua: two Balinese cooking classes to choose from created by their award-winning executive chef I Made Putra. The Epicurean Exploration class includes a trip to a local food market and three-course Balinese lunch (US$ 95++), and the Exquisite Epicurean Class includes an introduction to Bali’s exotic spices and herbs and a three-course lunch (US$ 55++). Booking is a must. Every Friday, starts at 12 midday,
T: 0361 771 327
Kayumanis Restaurants: daily-themed dinners – Indonesian cuisine with keroncong (Jimbaran, Tapis Restaurant, US$ 40++), flavours from Italy (Nusa Dua, Piasan Restaurant, US$ 40++), picnic lunch in the woods (Ubud, Buahan Village, US$ 35++) and a barbeque of Balinese delicacies with live dance performances (Sanur, Gong Restaurant, US$ 40++),
T: 0361 705 777
Mata Air Café, Villa Air Bali: healthy-lunch set menu that includes Parma ham and organic vegetables, rolled chicken, tuna carpaccio, snapper Monte Carlo and many more. Booking also comes with a special discount on beverage purchases. Rp. 199,000++, T: 0361 737 378
Pesona Lounge, Grand Hyatt Bali: choose from a myriad of their quality spirits and create your own martinis.
Rp. 98,000++ per glass, daily 8-11pm,
T: 0361 771 234
Kamis, 30 September 2010
food events
The best of bali Awards 2010
best of bali
ah, the moment all you readers (and nominees) have been waiting for. the votes for the 2010 hellobali best of bali awards have been submitted by the judges and have been counted and double-checked. here we present to you the list of winners, with a comprehensive vote count just so you know where they stand.
envelope, please. and the award goes to…
the judges
Our panel of judges is quite vast, although some prefer to stay anonymous. However, there are some judges that have agreed to be mentioned, as listed below:
- Chris Salans, chef owner of Mozaic Restaurant
- Jose Luis Calle, general manager of The Balé and The Amala
- Guy Bedarida, head designer and creative director of John Hardy Jewellery
- Kim Randall, director of Kendra Gallery of Contemporary Arts
- Mark Kuan, owner of Delicious Onion
- Peter Stephenson, culturalist-cum-writer
- Nobuyuki Narabayashi, head designer of Desain 9
- I Made Putra, executive chef of The Laguna Nusa Dua
- Darren Lauder, executive chef of Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa
- Malik Lomax, DJ extraordinaire
- Judy Chapman, wellness and spa curator at Karma Resorts
- Martin East, DJ and music producer
- Tipi Jabrik, professional surfer
- Annisa Dharma, editor of hellobali
- Unggul Hermanto, editor-in-chief of hellobali.
hellobali readers’ most favourite chef
Winner: Christian Hinckley, executive chef of Amandari
Runner up: Simon Blaby, executive chef of Karma Kandara
Best fine-dining restaurant Restaurants that serve delicious food with a side of class
Winner: Il Ristorante, The Bvlgari Resort (33.33%)
Best casual-dining restaurant Affordable cuisine in a comfortable setting
Winner: Sardine (40%)
Best new restaurant
The newbie that proves to be a goodie, in all aspects mentionable. This restaurant is preferably not more than two years old
Winner: MÉTIS (46.67%)
Best place to boogie
Venues that have an ample-sized dance floor, good live music, lively atmosphere, and, most importantly, the boogie factor
Winner: Hu’u Bar (40%)
Best place to get wasted
Venues that encourage, support, and fight for your right to party. Consider the quality and variety of drinks
Winner: The Living Room (33.33%)
Best new bar or club
Recently opened bars or clubs that have made a statement in the scene
Winner: Rock Bar (53.33%)
Best party
Quite simply, events that rocked the island in the past year
Winner: The Junction House Music Festival (40%)
Best original cocktail
Many venues offer original masterpieces in the art of mixing, we would like to know which cocktails from which venues are the favourite creations of many
Winner: Bali Mary at the St Regis Bali Resort (33.33%)
Most magical fingers
Spas that offer the best, most divine massages and rubdowns, without all the frills and thrills
Winner: Jari Menari (33.33%)
Best new hotel or villa
Newly established accommodation that truly makes the hospitality industry proud
Winner: Alila Villas Uluwatu (60%)
Hotel or villa with the best design
Accommodation that stands out for its aesthetic features (interior design, architecture, and overall décor)
Winner: Alila Villas Uluwatu (53.33%)
Most original cuts in a fashion label
Fashion labels that have the most cutting-edge and unique cuts, shapes and structures for their clothing
Winner: BIASA (40%)
Most avant-garde accessories
Trinkets that possess beautiful and innovative designs
Winner: Jemme (26.67%) & John Hardy Jewellery (26.67%)
Greenest establishment
Companies, organisations, venues that support and effectively practice an eco-friendly attitude
Winner: The Green School (45.45%) & Ibuku Bamboo by Design (45.45%)
Best arts and culture event or festival
Events and/or festivals that successfully promoted, cultivated and displayed the arts and culture of the island in all forms imaginable
Winner: The Ubud Writers and Readers Festival (60%)
Rabu, 03 Maret 2010
Due North
located on the northern coast of the island, singaraja used to be the centre of everything during the golden age of the balinese kingdom. with one damaged leg and a previously horrifying road trip experience, our writer headed up north to find out what’s left of the former capital of bali and check out its vicinity
Faced with another roadblock, the driver decided to swerve his dinky and weary car to the left, into a narrow alley that led to the much more slummy side of the town. I kept looking back to check that the mobs with guns were not tailing us anymore while praying that this would get us across the roadblock. But that hope immediately faded when we stumbled upon yet another roadblock. They had covered every single possible escape route. What was left was to get out of the car and negotiate our way through the blockade, which my travelling partner did exactly.
Fuelled with fear, my eyes were indeed open, but everything was blurry. Soon, I started hearing people shouting. I expected the worst. And with the shouting becoming more and more intense it did look like we were going to end up getting shot or tortured in prison for the rest of our lives. But then I heard a familiar voice saying, “Come on. Get out of the car. We’re walking through the roadblock.”
“What? How many days do you expect us to walk?” I asked.
“Only until after the blockade. There will be cars there.”
I got out of the car, cursing every single staring, angry-looking and sweaty mob member in my head and at the same time thanking my lucky stars that I had just scored travel story gold.
And suddenly, my mind fast-forwarded to the present. I had just been reminiscing about a road trip in Kathmandu. I was in a car again, not moving and parked right next to a cliff in Bedugul. Vertigo immediately hit.
That’s exactly what happens whenever I’m on a road trip - I have too much time to think and the rapid movement of objects through the car windows are somehow hypnotic to me. Images of Nepali communist mobs carrying guns, chasing my car apparently resulted in immediate paranoia and one guaranteed week of nightmares. Add this with being forced to hop on a tiny, eight-seat propeller plane which then flew above the Himalayas with dodgy seatbelts and cotton buds to cover my ears, I had to be immediately taken to an asylum as soon as we landed.
But if the images are green vegetation growing wildly among traditional Balinese houses, adorned with the occasional red, yellow and white from the flowers, the result is a state of almost absolute happiness.
The view of the villages we went through leading up to Bedugul reminded me a lot of the town in Lombok where I grew up. The markets, for instance, looked beautifully raw. The buildings that made up the shops looked old, with plenty of scars. The bricks in the walls were sticking out like damaged bones on deeply severed flesh. Dust was the prominent component, but also optimism. None of the old ladies looked upset or broken. Even the parking man looked cheerful.
The higher we climbed up the mountain, the stronger the feeling of serenity. I think you are left with no option when you’re given the combination of a sleepy town – there was hardly anyone on the street, a big lake that looks very calm, green hills, cloudy sky, and the slightest hint of fog - you can’t help but feel at ease. It was as if the complications of life had not penetrated this part of the mountain yet.
I spotted a trucker talking on his mobile phone on the side of the street and caught myself getting carried away, finding the whole scene odd. But then I remembered that at the same moment, I was receiving football match results from halfway across the planet directly on my phone, in real time.
The former capital of Bali, Singaraja, had its own way of welcoming you. While the town looked pretty and friendly, the sun was less so. The first time I stepped out of the car, the heat was almost unbearable. Not because it was just hot, but because it felt like it had a sting that punctured right through my flesh.
The finer side of town was, like most Indonesian towns, a little outside the centre. I noticed how the streets were much bigger compared to the ones in Denpasar. The government offices also looked better taken care of. The colours of the walls still looked good. And their candi bentar (gates) were bigger too, with more intricate carvings.
A left turn took us to the even posher side of town, where a lot of Dutch-style houses were lined up. Some of them looked really old and had been turned into offices. The others, meanwhile, are still standing tall looking beautiful.
Our first stop in Singaraja was not far from this area. The Buleleng Museum (Jl. Veteran Singaraja) failed to give me any significant information about this coastal town. We indeed came across a lot of old lontar (palm leaf) manuscripts, but there wasn’t much explanation as to how significant they were to the history of Bali.
Apart from feeling excited about being able to buy copies of old books about Bali, I found out that the shadow puppet figures from this part of the island look more gothic compared to their Javanese counterparts. They have a more monstrous look. The Hanoman figure, for example, looks like he has really bad skin and sharp fangs.
The centre of the city – or what I thought was it because it has more shops and looks busier – is located near the old harbour. Right behind this harbour is a line of streets that reminds me of Macau. Ageing two-storey houses that resemble old warehouses decorate the small street in the middle. We came across a mosque and a few Moslem wear shops. This must have been the Moslem area of the city.
Not far away, through the gate to the old harbour, is a Chinese temple.
Because the harbour was dominated by grey, pastel and black, the red paint of the temple makes it stand out. However, the highlight of this abandoned harbour to me was the patina left on the ruins of what used to be the harbour’s warehouses. The walls are scarred, the locks broken and the roofs destroyed. If it weren’t for the heat, I would probably have spent hours staring at those walls, risking being taken away as a nutter by the police, but we had other missions to accomplish.
One of which was to check out a hot spring. The way there, we passed Lovina Beach along a road that presented you with the sea on one side and the mountains on the other.
A hot spring usually means a lot of steps to tackle. And I recently had a motorbike accident, which temporarily lessened the mobility of my left leg. Hesitating to even get out of the car, from a distance, I saw a very old woman in a wheel chair emerging from the direction of the hot spring. She was pushed by another old woman and was in a group of similarly aged people. The thought of seeing their faces haunting – and mocking - me for the rest of my life gave me extra strength to soldier on. I couldn’t care less if I lost my left leg in the process as long as I didn’t embarrass myself in front of them. On top of that, seeing the wheel chair, I knew the steps wouldn’t be too difficult to tackle.
Indeed, without much pain I managed to reach the hot spring. It was not just full of local tourists, there were some foreign looking faces bathing too. Our driver told me that one of the springs is believed to have a healing powers. So he suggested that maybe I could give it a try. The thought sounded good for a moment, but after looking at the colour of the water, I didn’t have the courage for an infection.
Leaving Banjar, the sky slowly became more and more cloudy. Before, our left side view was green and yellow, grown against a blue background. But within minutes, it morphed into green, yellow and brown on a dark purple background before it became black and the rain inevitably poured down on us.
When we reached the even quieter side of North Bali, Pemuteran, the rain had subdued. One wrong left turn brought us to an unknown beach. It was a little scary as the small road went on and on, past a swamp that looked like it had giant crocodiles living there, before it ended on a small and secluded beach. I saw motorbikes parked there but the owners were nowhere to be seen. Realising the lack of lights around and the fact that the sun was almost gone, we decided not to risk getting even more lost and headed directly for the hotel. •
where to stay
Matahari Beach Resort & Spa
Jl. Raya Seririt, Gilimanuk
Pemuteran, Buleleng
North Bali
T: 0362 92 312 / 93 435
www.matahari-beach-resort.com
Located in a very secluded and quiet part of Singaraja, this 32-room, five-star hotel operates with serenity and peace as their priority. The rooms are adorned with intricate Balinese carvings and are also very spacious. The winner of Relais & Chateaux Environment Trophy 2007, this hotel has a beachside restaurant that offers a good fine dining experience.
Rabu, 03 Februari 2010
This Month Romance in Paradise
"Paradise is always where love dwells" Jean-Paul F. Richer
Bali has long been considered the perfect destination to celebrate romance; lazy days on tropical beaches, a candlelit dinner, moonlit walks along palm-fringed shores, proposals culminating in weddings followed by honeymoons. It is for this very reason that many of the rich and famous opt for Bali as their wedding destination. On the following pages, Hello Bali has chosen a few from the cream of the crop to give you a taste of romance – Bali style. Make the most of this Valentine, and surprise your loved one with a dinner, overnight stay, proposal, or second honeymoon. Celebrate life and live it to the full – and keep the love light aglow, especially with a Bali sunset as a stunning backdrop.
By Sarah-Jane Scrase.
Komaneka Resort
Your Piece of Heaven
Hotel Tugu Bali
Between Heaven and Earth
Tirtha Luhur Uluwatu
The VillaTirtha Bali’s Luxury Private Villa for Elite Weddings
More information on: T: 62-361-772255 F: 62-361-777252
E: yuka@tirtha.com - W: www.tirtha.com
The Viceroy Bali
Timeless Romance
The Viceroy Bali, T: 62-361-971-777 F: 62-361-970-777 www.theviceroybali.com
The Oberoi Bali
Romance Redefined
This beachside haven offers a complete Balinese experience, filled with serenity, hospitality and tropical beauty. Discover all that is serene and mystical about Bali at The Oberoi; a wonderfully secluded cluster of luxury villas and lanais set in 15 acres of tropical gardens on Seminyak Beach. Built in traditional Balinese style, you can relax and get into the mood of love in truly fabulous settings that celebrate your privacy with charming thatched roof villas, private pools, unique garden bathrooms, and exquisite interiors featuring Balinese art. Enjoy heavenly views from the swimming pool that looks out at the Indian Ocean. Oberoi Spas by Banyan Tree provide a serene and truly unforgettable experience of pure pampering and relaxation in exquisitely beautiful surroundings, using holistic therapies and massages that combine the very best of Eastern and Western practices. Expert in the use of Ayurvedic, Aromatherapy and traditional Western techniques, teams of highly skilled and trained therapists are handpicked for the resort from the Banyan Tree Spa Academy, Phuket. Oberoi Spa recipes feature only the finest natural ingredients, often local to the resort. The Oberoi Bali is committed in remaining true to the Asian tradition of respect for the environment. Try the packages for couples and pamper yourself this February. This is one of Bali’s original leading resorts, and is made for love, romance and all that the Bali sunsets and twinkling stars evoke…. tropical delights.
Contact The Oberoi Bali on T: 62-361-736361 W: www.oberoibali.com
Pura Santrian
An Intimate Alternative on Sanur Beach
This gorgeous resort sits on the gentle coastline of Sanur, famed for its breathtaking sunrises, and offers a reposed alternative to the hustle and bustle of Kuta and Seminyak. This is Bali at its hospitable best, with renovated facilities that exceed any expectations of a tropical hideaway on a stunningly beautiful island. This is a family owned and operated resort, which reflects the renowned Balinese hospitality and warmth of spirit that often seems forgotten in so many of the modern properties of a flourishing Bali. It is here that each guest will find a secure and attentive sojourn amongst frangipanis, flowing waters and ponds, as well as cool wood and stone structures against a stunning Indian Ocean backdrop. Who could ask for more?
A Thai Valentine
Well, a hungry gourmand might. In that case, one of the two restaurants will be sure to appease any esurient appetite. The Mezzanine was recently relaunched under the skilled Thai hands of Chef Supachai Lamtaisong to great acclaim. Chef Supachai can now boast the only authentic Thai restaurant in Sanur, much to everyone’s delight. Having travelled the world to appease the growing demand in Thai cuisine, Chef Supachai now finds himself enchanting the local, expatriate and international diner through many of his exquisite dishes. Choose from Yam Woon Sen Salad (prawns and mixed chicken flavoured hot and sour) or Gai Hor Bai Tuey (marinated deep fried chicken breast wrapped in pandanus leaves). As a main, warm things up a little with a colourful Thai curry, such as Gaeng Kiew Wan Neua Rue Gai (green curry w/beef or chicken mixed w/basil leaves & eggplant), or indulge in the Hoi Malaeng Phu Ob Mor Din-Ruam mit Talay Yang (mussels seasoned w/kaffir lime leaves, galanga, lemon grass & coriander baked in a clay pot with assorted vegetables in an oyster sauce). All of the aforementioned are complimented by one of the many wines from a very well stocked in-house cellar.
Perfect for a spicy valentine dinner, to warm things up a little! The Mezanine opens daily from 7pm.
Cocktails & Massages
During the day, dine beneath a canopy of cooling wood and Palimanen stone- pillars poolside at the Beach Club Restaurant as a fresh ocean breeze caresses the scenery, and whets the appetite. The menu is wholesome, varied and will satisfy all tastes. Over at the pool, order a lazy cocktail at the sunken bar and get into the holiday swing of pure indulgence as the Bali sun kisses your shoulders. Then, why not finish the perfect day at the impressive spa, and indulge yourself from an array of treatments such as; a Balinese Massage, an Aromatherapy Massage, Foot Reflexology or the sublime Healing Massage, all reasonably priced and lasting an hour each. There are also spa packages that last from a couple of hours to five hours for a couple to while away the afternoon in sheer unadulterated, romantic bliss.
Weddings
The Puri Santrian also offers wedding organisation, and can rouse the imagination of each wedding party by an out to sea ceremony from one of its moored pontoons. During the day, these very pontoons are the epitome of laziness with a couple of sun-loungers and guests lolling waterside.The Puri Santrain in truly a gem of a surprise in gentle Sanur, and has definitely earned its right to be ‘the intimate alternative’.
T: 62-361-288009 F: 62-361-287101
Outer Spice at Raja's
authentic balinese cuisine served in a fine dining setting is a rarity on the island; even rarer is one run by an australian chef and serving exclusively halal dishes. no, we’re not kidding you. this is raja’s
After staring at the multiple-spice-covered duck for about an eternity, the reflection from the knife and fork effortlessly cutting into the meat woke me up. Before I knew it, I was served a big chunk of the meat. Dining with the person who runs the restaurant, Darren Lauder, I thought of warning him by saying, “I’m sorry, please don’t think I’m crazy, but I’m about to eat a whole duck in front of you.”
Thankfully, I had second thoughts: Maybe I shouldn’t say something like that. Nobody takes a whole-duck-eater seriously. So instead, I said, “Enjoy your duck,” while at the same time making sure I had the bigger share of the portion.
In a nutshell, the duck was nothing like others I had had before. It was tender, tasty and addictive. I could go on and on about the duck, but the truth is that the whole dining experience at Raja’s was just as top notch.
The sambel embe burnt the right spots in my mouth I had to ask for a second portion. The soup tasted as delicious and clear as water after a whole night of drinking. And the small platters of traditional Balinese appetisers (rayunan pengawit Bali sane kasub) brought back memories from my childhood in Lombok.
“Yes, there are similarities between Balinese cuisine and that of Lombok, but not with other Indonesian cuisines such as Javanese which tends to be more sweet,” explained Darren, who is the executive chef of Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa where the restaurant is located.
He went on, “Balinese cuisine doesn’t use as much sugar and coconut. They are not prominent in their cooking process. Instead, Balinese cuisine uses a lot of freshly ground spices and herbs. They use the pestle and mortar to extract the oil, not the juices, from them and use the oil to marinate the meat and then cook them together. So it’s in reverse from the Indian cooking method where the spices are roasted first before the grinding and marinating process.”
A native of Australia, Darren received his formal kitchen training in his home country. Despite having done stints in kitchens in far flung corners of the world like the Middle East, Nagoya, Japan, and Santiago de Chile, the affable chef wasn’t always this knowledgeable about the gastronomy of our beloved island.
“Before I came to Bali, I thought the food here would be more like that of Thailand with a lot of curry, lemongrass, spices and ginger,” he admitted. Then as soon as he landed two and a half years ago, he was immediately given the task to transform what was originally a seafood eatery into a fine dining restaurant serving authentic Balinese cuisine.
“Was it as scary as when you were about to jump off a plane for the first time?” I asked. The Sagittarian daredevil laughed and recalled, “It was definitely challenging. It was a big learning curve for me.”
The first piece of the Raja’s puzzle was getting the recipes. “I invited my staff to bring recipes from their homes, the favourite traditional recipes of their families, and cook them how they’re supposed to be cooked. Not a la carte them or change anything,” he explained. “This was for me to learn the concept of Balinese cooking.
The whole process took some eight months of hard work, which included intensive research through going around the island tasting foods from the small warungs at the side of the streets of the smallest villages in search of even more rare authentic recipes.
“A lot of the traditional things we are doing in our kitchen are now lost. One example is our timbungan (referred to as timbungan be kambing on the menu, it is spiced minced lamb, baked in bamboo shelves and carved on the table) which isn’t practiced anymore,” he pointed out.
Later, I found out that my duck, too, came to fruition from long hours of kitchen work. “The duck is imported from Australia. This is because the meat is more tender and tastier than the local ducks. Then it was marinated for six hours in 16 different spices before being slowly baked in a low-heat oven for at least six hours,” explained Darren.
“Impressive,” I thought feeling slightly less guilty about having just eaten one whole duck. “But why don’t you have babi guling on your menu?” I asked.
“Because we’re a 100-percent-halal restaurant” was his answer.
My surprised expression must’ve been apparent to him as he immediately added: “It was another challenge because pork is a big part of Balinese cuisine and when we opened the restaurant it was difficult to source halal produce in Bali. But Raja’s kitchen is independent from the other kitchens in the hotel. Everything goes straight to Raja’s kitchen and all the meats and vegetables are processed there.”
The 60-seat restaurant’s kitchen is manned by six staff, two of which are female, and all work in harmony with the waiting staff that embody the elegance of the restaurant. They know their products very well. Ask any of them about any dish on the menu and they’ll happily take you through it. I couldn’t help but observe how Darren watchfully yet subtly oversaw everything that was going on that evening. He knew every single garnish that was supposed to be served with each dish, and where and how they were supposed to be served. Therefore, it came as no surprise to me that Darren and his team won The Best Service Award in the recent Tri Hirta Karana Awards 2009, which also saw Darren – who also holds the position as vice president of Bali Culinary Professionals – being given a gold medal.
As it got darker, the atmosphere at the restaurant became more chic. The contrast illuminated the many intricate carvings that adorned Raja’s outside dining area. The one inside is perhaps brighter but no less of a treat for the eyes. It’s graceful but comfortable. Gorging on my cendol manis (rice dumplings with coconut milk and palm sugar) I shamelessly asked Darren one last question,
“How many ducks do you prepare each day?”
“Three or four only. That’s why we recommend our guests order beforehand.”
And there went my dream of having two ducks in one evening.
Raja’s, Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa, Nusa Dua,
Lot North 4, T: 0361 771 210, www.nusaduahotel.com;
only open for dinner, closed on Tuesdays
Selasa, 02 Februari 2010
Bali Events
art as a medium of change
Art Café featured a provocative exhibition by Gianyar-based artist Made Muliana Bayak.
Seni Sebagai Media Perubahan or Art as a Medium for Change is a multimedia exhibition featuring paintings, three-dimensional works, and sound installations. The exhibition’s opening featured a collaborative sound installation that explores the relationship between visual and musical arts. Made Muliana Bayak has teamed up with American composer and Professor of Music, Dr Kristian Twombly, to create “an immersive sound happening”.
Art Café, Jl. Sari Dewi no. 17, Seminyak, T: 0361 736 751
intercontinental bali resort teams up with ripcurl school of surf
InterContinental Bali Resort has recently opened a new beach recreational centre at the Resort, to be managed and operated by Bali-based surf and board school, the Rip Curl School of Surf.
The recreational centre is for the exclusive use of in-house guests with a wide range of water sports activities and tuition at Jimbaran Bay. There are also introductory dive lessons under the guidance of a trained instructor focused in the Resort pool. The school also provides rental equipment for guest use as well as guided tours along the local coastline for snorkelling, fishing or sightseeing.
InterContinental Bali Resort, Jl. Uluwatu
no. 45, Jimbaran, T: 0361 701 888
an intelligent world: a dual exhibition
In general, the graphic arts – etchings, lithographs and woodcuts – have attracted little interest in Indonesia, whose collectors have long been obsessed with paintings.
This has been changing in recent years, as proven by this exhibition of two Balinese artists, I Made Saryana and Mega Sari, who purposely chose the esoteric and technically challenging art of woodcutting.
Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resort Jimbaran Bay, T: 0361 701 010
westin resort is earthchecked
Westin Resort Nusa Dua Bali has achieved the prestigious Green Globe Certified Silver status under the Green Globe Earthcheck Certification programme managed by EC3 Global. The global programme recognises The Westin Resort Nusa Dua Bali’s commitment to operating at the world’s highest environmental standards.
The Certification process involves either an onsite audit or offsite assessment by an EC3 Global approved independent third party Green Globe Auditor. Prior to achieving Certification, The Westin Resort Nusa Dua Bali successfully benchmarked using the Earthcheck tool, against key environmental indicators including energy and water consumption, total waste production and community commitment.
The Westin Resort, PO Box 36, Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 906
we are one
A cool new shop has recently opened its doors in Bali called ONE. This street wear retail heaven stocks breakthrough edgy labels such as Dead Boy, Mad, 16Ds (Sixteen D’Scale), Nikicio, oneandahalf, Eat, Sukah, Capital, Poei Oei, and Flat Street, and features artwork by Rano Dwi Pantara and Dimas Aditya (Mad Artists).
ONE Shop, Jl. Drupadi no. 2, Seminyak, E:oneshopbali@gmail.com
be reborn
Until February 6
A solo exhibition by Bambang Adi Pramono, Reborn showcases some of the artist’s most exquisite sculptures, crafted with love, without pretention and made from wood, metal, and containing visual concepts that capture today’s social anomalies, controversies and opinions.
Hanna Art Space, Pengosekan, Ubud, www.hannaartspace.com
blown away
February 26-March 5
Blowing Smoke is a non-profit event designed to engage the Bali community and its international network in a collective effort to create, appreciate, and celebrate art, and in doing so, raise money for the Narayan Seva Children’s Home in Singaraja.
People across all age groups and artistic backgrounds were invited to contribute one piece of artwork, in a form and medium of their choice, based on the theme “blowing smoke”. The theme is conceptual and open to each person’s interpretation, be it literal, abstract, or anything in between and beyond. Therefore, expect a melting pot of arts on exhibition, and keep your eyes, ears and mind open.
Tarita Studio, Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai no. 88, B-C, Denpasar, T: 0361 864 8000
sepia, an exhibition by karyana
February 4
Karyana’s penchant for fleeting impressions has recently led him to a moody space that borders on the abstract. While some of his paintings are clearly inspired by the world that surrounds him on his native island of Lombok, others, which more resemble Rorschach tests delve into a mystery that provokes one’s imagination. While careful study may reveal a hidden horse or dancer, these can easily fade back into the whole as if they never existed.
Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resort Jimbaran Bay, T: 0361 701 010
boom bass and all that jazz / Daily at 7:30pm
Enjoy a different brand of jazzy funk everyday at Jazz Café, with talented musicians and artists coming to light up the night. Performing Jazz, Blues, Latin, Funk, Soul and World Music, Jazz Café offers a snazzy night of sultry soul. Jazz Café, Jl. Sukma, Ubud, T: 0361 976 594
tie the knot with prestige
For the ultimate wedding, the stunning Cloud Nine Chapel on the beach is an exceptional venue, unparalleled in setting and service.
A combination of modern and classic designs create an air of timeless elegance, complete with a dazzling Swarovski chandelier and a traditional bell tower, which add a romantic charm, together with a pond which features cascading water fountains.
Whether for intimate celebrations or a grand wedding reception, the St Regis Bali Resort also provides an elegant beachfront stage with the refined Astor Ballroom, along with additional venues, the Amphitheatre and the Dulang at the Tropical Park. Dedicated events organisers are at hand to ensure the smooth running of all personal events.
St. Regis Resort Bali, Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot S6, PO Box 44, Nusa Dua,T: 0361 847 8111
Sabtu, 05 Desember 2009
Yhi Spa, Nusa Dua
touch of genius
magical fingers, magical potion and skin cells eating fish. welcome to yhi spa
I have always wondered why certain hotels always put their spa a little far from their lobby. And they always turn out to be the hotel spas that impress me. Not until walking from Meliá Bali’s lobby to their Yhi Spa did I come to a realisation why it is so (for once I wasn’t in a hurry).
It’s like walking through a beautiful and vibrant park on a good summer day. You see a lot of things: children playing, fish chasing each other, leaves dancing and falling on green grass, adults snogging, a lovely picnic turning slowly into a disaster, etc. But after exiting the gate, all you can remember is one particular smell and one particular feeling, both of which make you happy and relaxed.
I remember a beautiful garden, but most vividly, I remember inhaling a particular smell. The smell of a happy holiday. The smell that immediately brings you back to one particular holiday where you had the best time of your life. It was really a touch of genius. I was already experiencing the spa even before I walked
into the lobby. I was ready to let go of everything and escape to an idyllic beach far away from everything.
And when you’re back to Planet Earth, you suddenly find yourself in a dimly lit lobby smelling like indulgence. The spa complex itself has touches of a Chinese house. The spa lounge is built above an oriental looking fishpond. In one corner is the fish therapy area where you get to dip your feet to an aquarium of a thousand garupa fish, which are more than keen to feed on the dead cells on your legs. On the other side is the steam room, which I have to admit, doesn’t look or feel claustrophobic.
the touch
Every single spa on the island offers a Balinese massage and it takes a magical set of fingers to stand out from the other thousand. Meliá Bali’s Yhi Spa’s Balinese massage routine is slightly different from the rest. It still uses the fingers to give pointed pressure to your deep tissues, but more flowy (compared the usual press-stop-press routine); I felt touches of Swedish massage, and the uses of elbows like in shiatsu.
My therapist applied the right amount of pressure. It was hard and deep enough that I felt like I was in a small village in north Bali getting massaged by a blind old lady. If there ever was a massage technique called contemporary Balinese massage, this might just be it.
Balinese boreh is a century-old recipe known to be able to prevent cold. It’s made of mostly clove, ginger and a lot of other spices and act like a scrub applied on your whole body. The potion has a potent warming effect, which is quite pleasant to sleep to. Afterwards, entireties of your muscles loosen up and you smell like clove.
the exceptional
Yhi Spa at Meliá Bali is also equipped with a spa garden at the back, very close to the beach. It’s admittedly dinky, but quite beautiful. There’s a dedicated area for a reflexology treatment overlooking the beach and the sea. I personally think this is a very good idea to set a reflexology treatment, especially when the weather is good, the sky is charming blue and the sea is in a good mood, enough to send you hypnotic rows of waves. That’s, then, another magical quality of the spa, when you can’t help but daydream and occasionally think, “Ouch…that painful spot must be my over-abused kidneys.”
Treatments starts at US$ 30; Yhi Spa
(Meliá Bali, Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 510, www.meliabali.com)
Minggu, 18 Oktober 2009
Nu Wave Nusa Dua
From the minute you arrive in the pristine palimanan and Jogya stone-walled lobby of The Balé (Jl Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, T: 0361 775111) you realize this is a place where everything stops. Here is a part of the island that is tranquil, serene and truly removed from the madness of the outside world.
Greeted by a friendly, gracious and quite beautiful staff, you get the feeling that they know who you are and exactly what you want from your stay. After being escorted by my butler Winnie through the beautiful grounds, to my spectacular room, I am already eager to indulge in my welcome massage at the spa, lunch at Bliss café and dinner in the acclaimed Faces restaurant. Winnie gave me a run down of all the fun things I could do while I was staying, with top priority going to the many spa treatments on offer.
Winnie gone and privacy achieved I lost the clothing, opened the patio doors in the bathroom and jumped into the villa pool. My room, number thirty-six (highly recommended), is one of the new deluxe villas overlooking the lagoon and pristine greens of the neighboring Bali Golf and Country Club. It is so beautiful and private that you feel as if you can do whatever you want. All I wanted to do was stay there and relax but the spa was beckoning this new arrival.
The journey to the spa (located behind the lobby) gave me a chance to check out some more of the grounds. The spectacular landscaping and clean, unfussy, contemporary architecture of The Balé and its many linking walkways create an extremely stylish ambience that many an aspiring ‘designer hotel' in Bali could learn a thing or two from.
The welcome massage was sublime but immediately left me wanting more, so pen in hand I booked the hot stone massage and a facial for the next day. Hungry from all my exertions, I decided to have a big lunch in the spa's Bliss restaurant. The menu is made to compliment a number of the spa's treatments. With fresh, clean healthy food it was hard to choose what to sample, finally, I opted for the fresh cucumber soup, ricotta frittata and seared tuna. I felt like a glutton but it all looked so tempting and besides, this is healthy dining, right?
My big lunch knocked me out and all I could think of was getting back to my beautiful villa and relaxing. I stopped by the lobby to choose a film from their extensive collection and headed back to my room to chill out. Big bed, yummy sheets, huge flat screen TV and everything I could want before me, I popped on the movie and sank into a heavenly slumber. Later that evening I woke to a ravenous hunger, and headed to Faces for dinner. A t-bone steak, fries and a Chilean Shiraz was just the culinary relapse I needed after the well-being spa lunch, though, to be honest the portions were huge and I was not able to finish my plate.
Making my way back to the villa I decided that one day, my dream house would have all the same features as my room at The Balé down to the swimming pool that emerges from the bathroom to the sweeping views. This is how I want to live!
Treatments done and in a total state of bliss, it was time to head back to “real” life… reluctantly I left The Balé, but not before I had signed the visitors' book, ‘I will be back', and said some farewells to the lovely staff who I had got to know in my short stay.
Leaving The Balé was quite a shock; somehow in my short time there I had completely forgotten about the traffic and the hustle bustle of the world outside. No worries, now that I know about this gem of a place I am sure to return.
As day turns to night in Nusa Dua so the mood shifts to cocktails at Eight Degrees South in the luxurious ambience of The Conrad Bali Resort & Spa (Jl Pratama, T: 0361 778 788). The soft onshore breeze sweeps through the open front restaurant and alang-alang bales on the beach, lending itself to a perfect martini moment (classic chic is the order of the day here) before we surrendered to the allure of Executive Chef Gary Rosen's Spice and headed upstairs in the resort to the ocean view balcony of arguably Nusa Dua's finest of fine dining establishments. Spice truly is devoted to overt culinary pleasure in every sense, a medley of Middle, Near and Far East recipes with stunning flavours to appease even the most demanding of palates and I had been looking forward to sampling the dinner menu there since I first heard of Rosen's reputation for excellence in the kitchen.
There was no room for dessert after the richness of the veal livers and the size (this is a big plate, surprisingly so for such a venue that could just as easily skimp on the portioning) so I opted for a single espresso and picked my way home to the ocean facing suite on the fourth floor to lap up the view of the Balinese water garden and expansive swimming pool of The Conrad. Whisky in hand on the balcony, surveying the activity around the hotel grounds one lapses into the sort of lethargic contemplation of the finer things in life, that periodical moment of reflection only ever prompted by indulging in the finer things that life can afford.
Kicking myself the next morning for booking such an early massage (the comfort factor of the beds at The Conrad borders on being a productivity risk) I made my way towards the Jiwa Spa after a reviving breakfast in the club lounge for a protracted Ocean Flow massage. The signature Ocean Flow treatment at The Conrad is designed to ebb away your cares and rebalance the body and mind with a combination of rhythmic full-handed acupressure and combined effects of aromatherapy not dissimilar to the movements of the ocean waves. The spa treatment countered my morning's intake of coffee and sent me back to a rather inactive state of wellbeing as I drifted through the lobby to the waiting limo for a rather inconvenient return to the working week.
Kupu-Kupu Barong - Great Gateway
Making a brave attempt to escape the dreaded routine and find a peaceful getaway, we drive right to the heart of Bali's best nature spot, Ubud. Entering Kupu Kupu Barong, which is located above the valley of the Ayung River, we are surrounded by nature, local villages and the quiet sounds of night. The rice barn (lumbung) style bungalows are located some distance away from one another, giving us the much preferred privacy we are looking for. Stepping into the bungalow, we are welcomed with five-star treats. Beautiful fragrances float from the rose petal strewn bathtub, while the fruit basket and personalized welcome note, have truly make us feel like home.
For travelers with the need of a good spa treatment, Kupu Kupu Barong has provided their guests with either Le Spa treatment across the lobby area or a special treatment at mango Tree House, where, nestled high above the mango tree in a traditional Balinese tree house you can experience dreamy treatments.
To help experience the sights and sounds of beautiful Ubud, the resort has prepared Ayung River trekking, which is a day adventure. An experienced resort guide will escort guests to the cave of Goa Gangsar along the Ayung River, winding through the surrounding villages. Cycling is also offered to encourage guests to discoverthe beauty of Bali's ancient temples and all around beautiful scenery.
As we walk down the whole property, we discover that the owners have purposely placed the bungalows amongst green natural habitat and surroundings. Plantations are well maintained and many local people are living in villages within the property. It's a delightful combination of warm hospitality, friendly inhabitants and exquisite panorama. It's a perfect getaway place.
The Best of Nusa Dua
From a museum, to a spaceship and a spa of butterflies, Nusa Dua has it all. One of Bali’s most exclusive areas is also about to hold its 13th cultural festival this month. We celebrate by feasting on the best that the peninsula has to offer.
Get wrapped in mud
Going to a spa these days takes courage. Over are the days when a spa visit only includes a gentle massage, a sauna and a flower bath. More spa goers mean more spa openings and this means more money for research and development. If you consider yourself a spa connoisseur, then getting wrapped in mud is something you live for. The Black Moor mud is known for its healing characteristics. When you get your skin scrubbed with aromatic and warm Moor mud and then have it wrapped all over you for about half and hour, your skin immediately becomes very smooth. Add that with a fine massage and you know you're going to come back again next month. (The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 327, www.luxurycollection.com/bali)
Ditch your kids
But this is only because we know The Westin Kids Club is one of the best on the island. The resort has developed all-round facilities and services where your offspring are well taken care of and fully entertained. They have art classes for your kids to learn how to make simple handicrafts and appreciate Balinese culture, or even fishing. Longing for a peaceful breakfast without your kids running around, screaming and making a mess all over? The Westin has gone as far as providing special kids section at breakfast which for some people is the ingredient that makes a perfect morning cup of coffee. (The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, BTDC area Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 906, www.starwoodhotels.com)
Ride a camel
They can't possibly bring a desert to a beach in Bali, but they can bring the camels. These animals might not look as handsome as studs, but they are surely fun to ride, especially on the beach and then through a traditional village. Both the morning and afternoon rides are almost equally entertaining, but keep in mind that it could get really hot up there when the sun is in full blow. The sunset tour is best because it can keep your sweat level to the minimum. (Nikko Bali Resort and Spa, Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan T: 0361 773 377, www.nikkobali.com)
Sip the island's best Bloody Mary
At St Regis Bali Resort, they call it Bali Mary and it's truly merry. Coming here with an empty stomach is not recommended because you might end up drinking glasses after glasses of this tasty drink for your lunch. The vodka, spices and tomato juice are mixed together so well that this drink feels so crunchy you almost want to chew instead of sip. Luckily, the bartenders have mercy on you and provide you with a piece of cucumber. What's the recipe you ask? Absolute Pepper, jicama, cucumber, brown sugar, tomato juice, lemon and a variety of spices of which content is we can't reveal. For the best experience, come for a sunset drink and enjoy it while watching the resort's regular fire dance performance. (The St. Regis Bali Resort, Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot S6, T: 0361 847 8111, www.stregis.com/bali)
Holiday like a celebrity
No, it doesn't mean jet-setting with a diet of champagne and cigarettes, but stay in a zen-like environment and eat healthily, just like Sting and Donna Karan. The Balé's villas can soothe your mind simply by handsomely standing there. The whole complex has been designed to look more like a modern temple with a world class spa equipped with a comprehensive health menu. If that's not enough, their signature restaurant Faces also has a Wellness Corner menu. Be sure to try the light yet flavourful organic quinoa salad with nashi ear, papaya relish, toasted almonds and curry vinaigrette. (The Balé, Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, T: 0361 775 111, www.thebale.com)
Whack balls
Releasing stress is sometimes not just about relaxing. There's only so much sunbathing and going to a spa can do for you. For the rest, golf is the answer. Designed by Nelson Wright, the 18-hole course at Bali Golf and Country Club is considered as one of the best in Asia. The windy nature of the Nusa Dua area is just the challenge you need to prove to yourself and most importantly, your golf buddies (of course!), that you are the best at whacking balls and putting them into tiny holes. There is a Balinese-style clubhouse for the post game drinks, but if you can't wait that long, try asking for two caddies. One to carry your golf stuff and another one to carry your drinks and to make sure the glasses are bottomless.(Bali Golf & Country Club, Kawasan Wisata Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 791, www.baligolfandcountryclub.com)
Dine in outer space
Tetaring restaurant in Kayumanis Nusa Dua was designed and made by aliens. Yes, this is a blatant lie, but it could have been for its futuristic looks. The architects here have managed to combine glass and bamboo panels so perfectly that you are under the illusion of dining inside a spaceship. Their food however, isn't alien as they are guaranteed to please the human palate. Farther inside the complex, their villas are also equally excellently designed. Popular for honeymoon couples, the best thing about staying here is the privacy. Kayumanis Nusa Dua doesn't accept children and even when the complex is full, you can hardly see the other guests.(Kayumanis Nusa Dua, BTDC Area Nusa Dua T: 0361 770 777, www.kayumanis.com)
Eat modern Indonesia food
The best Indonesian foods are often the ones you find on the side of the streets. But while the foods out there are indeed mouth-watering, you also need to have the right stomach for it. If you have just arrived on the island, you might want to stay away and be kind to your tummy. Instead, go for the safe option and enjoy modern Indonesian dishes in a posh setting. Chef de Cuisine Ida Bagus Oka's five-course set menu is a great introduction to this type of Indonesian dishes. But if you want to choose from the menu, we recommend you to start with the oxtail soup and have the Sate Besar as your main course.(The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort and Spa, Nusa Dua, Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771327, www.luxurycollection.com/bali)
Live like a king
To become a king is difficult. Prince Charles might have the pleasure one day, but even he can't get the guarantee. So you need to marry the Queen of England where the possibility of which is next to nil. Still, you can live like one easily in Nusa Dua. The Royal Residence at Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa is owned by the Sultan of Brunei and this is where he resides whenever he's in Bali. However, for most of the year when the king isn't around, the residence is available for rent. Lie down on the massive four-post bed that looks truly striking and get a taste of the royal comfort everybody has been dreaming about for all of their lives. Who knows it might be contagious. (Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa, BTDC area Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 210, www.nusaduahotel.com)
Be cultured
Every year, there are noises usually coming out of the amphitheatre at Nusa Dua. When it does, you're in luck because that means there is a feast of culture in the area. Now in its 13th year, the Nusa Dua Fiesta will be held from October 17-21. Unfortunately, the cool amphitheatre is not going to be used as much as before. This year, most activities will be held on the Nusa Gede Island and the organiser has promised a colossal Balinese dance performance for all to marvel at on the opening day. There will also be daily Indonesian traditional performing art shows at the newly-built stage on the tiny island. For detailed schedule, check out their website: fiesta.balinusaduaresort.com
Be a shopaholic
It's an accepted notion that shopping gives instant gratification. What happens after you receive your credit card bill later on is a bridge you only cross when you really have to. Those who know Nusa Dua well is aware of the fact that there is actually good shopping in the area. Bali Collection offers a wide variety of goods from evening cocktail outfit to jewellery, cheap tourist tats, books, sporting goods to food. Yes, food. There are plenty of good restaurants and bars available inside the open-air complex should you decide you need more energy and encouragement to swipe your card.
Get married in a pyramid
Not a real pyramid of course, but inside the remarkable triangular structure made by glass called Infinity located at Conrad Bali. It seats 60 people so it's big enough for an intimate yet lavish wedding ceremony. This wedding venue is ideally located by the beach so you get a great view of the Indian Ocean while pledging unconditional love to your significant other. Should you want to go more traditional, the Water Garden, also in the vicinity of Conrad Bali is an alternative option. (Conrad Bali, Jl. Pratama 168, Tanjung Benoa, T: 0361 778 788, www.conradhotels.com)
Try Nusa Dua's newest Sushi bar
Japanese cuisine enthusiasts in Bali can be happy and excited with the fact that more and more excellent Japanese restaurants have been opened here. Let's just hope the good news reaches the ears of chef Nobu and convince him to open a restaurant on the island. But until then, let's welcome the latest addition to Bali's world of Japanese eateries. The Royal Santrian has only recently opened its doors to public, but its hip Sushi bar has already been going places. The chef improvises daily creating new Sushi rolls for guests. Imagine the variety and type of rolls available at the bar. Be one of the first to have a bite! (The Royal Santrian, Jl. Pratama Tanjung Benoa, Nusa Dua, T: 0361 778 181, www.theroyalsantrian.com)
Join the local water games
The main Nusa Dua tourist complex offers a decent range of beach activities. But the real fun is located a bit farther down in Tanjung Benoa. Known as the centre for water sports in Bali, this area offers a whole new level of water-related adrenaline-pumpers. Brave yourself and try out the parasailing facilities or see if you can still look cool on water playing wake and knee boarding. If you simply want to feel roaring engines in between your legs, there are plenty of jetskis around to satisfy your needs. For a wide variety of such sports that even include coral/deep fishing tour, head down to Conrad Bali. (Conrad Bali, Jl. Pratama 168, Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 778 788, www.conradhotels.com)
Pamper yourself at the spa of butterflies
The Remède Spa at St. Regis Bali is a beautiful and massive complex surrounded by a koi pond. If you arrive after sunset you get to be welcomed by luminous rectangular rocks placed tastefully at the lobby. After that, walking to your treatment room, you'll start to think that you're seeing butterflies and moon everywhere. Don't panic. It's not something you might have eaten or drunk, it's just one of the interesting features in this posh spa. Inspired by the Indian Poet, Kabir (1398-1448), who wrote “the moon shines in my body”, a moon and butterfly theme runs through the spa facilities and with sophisticated lighting, they have somehow managed to make these butterflies look to be gently fluttering around. If you only have time to try one treatment here, ask for the one that uses vodka. Are you starting to get butterflies in your stomach now? (The St. Regis Bali Resort, Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot S6, T: 0361 847 8111, www.stregis.com/bali)
Appreciate art
On this island, when you think about museums and art, you think about Ubud. But it turns out that even in posh Nusa Dua you can still go and stare at a painting for hours. Museum Pasifika is quite new, it's only opened in 2006, but it already boasts over 600 works on permanent display. On top of showcasing fine works by Indonesian artists, the museum also displays works from other international artists whose works carry similar theme, Asia and the Pacific. When you're done analysing the paintings, there is a little stand at the lobby where you can buy a book about all the arts inside. As the museum rarely gets busy, it really is a nice break from all the shopping and partying one seem to always do in this area. (Museum Pasifika, BTDC Area, Blok P, T: 0361 774 935, 774 624, Opens daily from 10am – 6pm, Admission fee is IDR 60,000, www.museum-pasifika.com)
Kamis, 03 September 2009
Tirtagangga A Taste Of The Rajah’s Life In Rural Bali
Nestled in the rice paddies of eastern Bali, on the site of a sacred spring, the last Rajah of the Karangasem Regency built his weekend retreat, an elaborate Water Palace with a view of the ocean to the east and Mount Agung to the north. He called it Tirta Gangga meaning "holy water" from the Ganges, the sacred river in India.
Tirta Gangga is a truly amazing location, the visual stimulus is breathtaking, an experience that will stay with you for the rest of your life. It's the historic, cultural hub of the island, this is the real Bali at its best. Many visitors are inspired to take picturesque walks or photograph the fabulous scenery and artists love to paint the beautiful landscapes that surround Tirta Gangga.
Eight months ago Julie Crampton, previously Marketing Director of the Watergarden Hotel in Candidasa became an investor and Managing Director of Tirta Ayu Hotel and Restaurant, which is located within this fabulous Water Palace. She has, with the help of her trusted manager, Haryo Sugih Arso (who works very closely with the East Bali Tourist Authority and Hotel & Restaurant Association) managed to transform the villas and restaurant into a magnificent place to dine and stay.
Tirta Ayu's chefs are all highly experienced; their menus are simply delicious, cooked to perfection and the presentation is out of this world, they also have an extensive wine list which includes a good Burgundy and Claret, wines can be bought by the bottle or by the glass as can ice cold beers and sizzling cocktails.
Weddings at this spectacular location will make your perfect day in paradise a reality, not just a dream with memories you will treasure for the rest of your life.
The restaurant can cater for group bookings of up to 150 with a superb buffet style menu, they also provide outside catering for private parties. Tirta Ayu can make your special occasion an event that will be remembered for eternity.
The Cooking School has an almost magical atmosphere about it with a trip to the local market to buy some of the ingredients for Balinese cooking at its very best using traditional methods and finally sitting in a relaxed setting with a magnificent view, eating your lunch or dinner.
Tirta Ayu's rooms have been decorated and furnished in true Balinese style; whilst luxurious they still retain the charm and mystique of the Balinese culture. Their slogan is "Built for a king now a royal treat for visitors".
Tirta Ayu Hotel & Restaurant, Tirtagangga Water Palace, East Bali
T/ F: (0363) 22503
Selasa, 18 Agustus 2009
Tugu, A Culinary Time Machine to Centuries Old Bali
For a relatively small island, Bali probably has the most complete variety of international fare restaurants compared to other islands. But where does one go for quality Indonesian dining, where one can indulge in a beautiful and indigenous atmosphere, savor delicious authentic dishes, and have decent wines? Instead of restaurants, Hotel Tugu in Canggu has spectacular theatrical dining venues with different themes that transport guests from one era of Indonesia's past to another. There must have been around 30 different kinds of dining experiences that I was told of by the staff - but the few below are the ones that really stick. One of my favorites was the atmospheric Warong Tugu. Set in a rustic open kitchen inspired by the daily lifestyle of Javanese and Balinese between the 15th to the 19th century, Waroeng Tugu is an open air hut with old tiled roof, featuring a row of beautiful antique statues and old wooden benches. The simplicity of the Waroeng Tugu is where it's so beautiful, not only in terms of its ambience, but in the whole experience of feasting with simple dining wares, hand-rolled corn cigarettes just like in the old days, an old ice grinder from the turn of last century, and many more. The dishes here are prepared by Ibu Soelastri, who has cooked at home since she was a small girl, and at Tugu for a number of presidents of Indonesia. The Waroeng Tugu has no menu—instead, Ibu goes to the market, picks the ingredients she likes, and then she makes up to eight different dishes in Waroeng Tugu's traditional open kitchen. In the morning, Iboe Soelastri gives cooking classes here, where she brings her guests with her to the market.
As dusk fell, I was taken to Tugu's deserted sandy beach, guided by a row of torches and red flower petals. A table for two, with flowers and candles atop, sat alone facing the Indian Ocean, with nothing around except for a seafood grill and a champagne stand. No hawkers, no beachwalkers, no other tables, and no noise except for the crashing waves. I was told, "We usually set only one table alone on the beach – but tonight is special, we put these thousands of flower petals because one of our guests will be proposing," say no more.
Walking back to my previously chosen table with a view to the ocean, I was tempted to peak into another dining room that was set up for two other guests. This room, the Bale Puputan, has beautiful 19th century Balinese antiques and artwork, and a beautiful marble table from that period. Celebrating Bali of the 19th century, two special dining experiences are available here – the first one being the Balinese Rajadom dining, and the second one the Grand Rijsttaffel. a special dining created by the plantation masters during the colonial Dutch era, where they entertained guests with dishes using the exotic spices of the country. Bear in mind that the Grand Rijsttaffel dining is served by a parade of 13 waiters wearing traditional costumes, even if you are only a party of two. Noticing my bedazzled expression, I was further explained that the Grand Rijsttaffel was ‘normal'. Their most special dining experience, called the Tugudomis mind blowing. The Tugudom dining experience tells the story of how the royal entourage of the Majapahit Kingdom, including the soldiers, the ox carriages, the elephants, etc, arrived in Bali when they were defeated in Java, where they were warmly welcomed by the Balinese. The dishes presented here are researched to the times of the Majapahit era, and include royal dishes as well as cuisine prepared by the humble villagers to welcome the entourage. The Tugudom theatrical dining can include up to an entourage of 50 people, bringing the whole Majapahit entourage to present time – again, even if you are only a party of two.
Classical Balinese dance can be arranged with any dinner at Tugu. Ibu Cenik, one of the oldest and most flamboyant dancers of Bali, also dances on the beautiful stage upon request or on special schedule.I will say no more, except that dining at Tugu is indeed an experience of a lifetime.
Hotel Tugu Bali, Canggu (+62-361) 731 701
Dine and dine.....
St Regis Executive Chef, Oscar Perez, describes himself as the spark and his team as the engine. He gets each of their inspiration, motivation, discipline and technique started, but it’s the members of his team that make the machine move. Although there are authority figures, each of the top chefs work along side the members of their team. There is no shouting or ordering about other people. Everyone knows what responsibilities they hold, and each are aware that they play an important role in the service engine of St Regis.
When I arrive at St Regis it’s 7 o’clock in the morning. Because this is just in time for Breakfast, the most important meal of the day, I wander over to Boneka, the a la minute breakfast venue of St Regis Resort Bali.
Many hotel restaurants offer the run of the mill, boring; help yourself buffet kind of breakfast. Not Boneka. Here you will find a delicious menu of out of the ordinary delights. Enjoy a duo of freshly shucked oysters or a serve of Wagyu beef tenderloin and fried egg with slowly baked cherry tomatoes and sautéed baby potatoes. A fine selection of Sashimi served with organic miso soup or a serve of dim sum, crispy fried potato cake with your choice of sausages or there is of course, the chance to try the famous Boneka Eggs Nouvelle, lobster ragout in an egg shell with parsley cream topped with salmon roe.
What is most apparent as you walk through the restaurant doors is the long kitchen bench that lies to the left. The bench is open and exposed, designed to allow closeness between the kitchen staff and the diners wandering in to see what their meal choices are. Breakfast at Boneka is intended as a breakfast experience rather than just a place to order food.
The members of the Boneka team are dressed immaculately in white jackets and tall chef hats. Each of them, quietly keep on with their work, whilst people stare, some of them look up and smile, ask if they can help or if the guest would like to try something that they are preparing.
They all arrived at 6am for the morning preparation, and will remain at Boneka until the morning service is finished, which is officially at eleven o’clock, but sometimes guests stay for longer.
The diners come in waves; the first one arrives at seven, has a quick breakfast and will be out by eight. The second crowd comes in at eight and usually stays until ten. They enjoy their time and take the opportunity to peruse the bar as well as try the food and drinks being passed around. It is mostly the latecomers, who are enjoying themselves until eleven. They arrive at 9 and are around for the full experience of the breakfast service. They look, they taste, they watch, and they take the time to enjoy.
As many guests are not familiar with the opportunity to order directly from the Chef, waiters act as middlemen, serving tastings and menu selections between chef and table. This Breakfast Bar also serves drinks with a difference. Collected by waiters carrying service trays, one particular St Regis specialty, known as the Bloody Mary, is offered around the room. The breakfast version, known as a Virgin Mary, is alcohol free, but offers guests an entertaining kick start to the day. Nothing about breakfast at Boneka is ordinary.
Each morning the St Regis baker’s rise and begin work at 2am. They, like the traditional bakers of the world, insist that the bread must be prepared and baked in time for the morning meal because the bread, croissants and other pastries are best served crunchy and fresh from the oven.
I watch as guests who move toward the bread cutting station, notice the delicious array of pastries that sit on the breakfast bar in front of a smiling chef. Some guests return nervously to cutting their bread and rush back to the safety of their tables. Others, allured by intrigue find themselves having their first interaction with the breakfast team.
Behind the Breakfast Bar, the chefs and their preparation of food are exposed and open. I imagine that it must be difficult to get used to at first, but the team, both at Boneka and elsewhere in St Regis, are encouraged to be proud of themselves and their work. It is explained to them that guests are not watching to be critical but admiring and enjoying the opportunity to watch a quality chef at work under such close conditions.
The same experience can be enjoyed at KayuPuti, the St Regis fine dining establishment that overlooks the beautiful Nusa Dua beach. Perhaps it is the breakfast experience that encourages guests to wander into the kitchen of KayuPuti to peruse the activities of the kitchen.
The KayuPuti staffs arrive at ten o’clock and begin their preparations for the day. As in most international standard kitchens, this usually begins with a quality check on products, temperature monitoring of the refrigeration equipment, and then the business of preparation begins.
From gold leaves and silver dust to Sturia, an Acipenser Baeri sturgeion caviar and MB7+ Wagyu beef, Alaskan king crab meat and Tasmanian salmon, the key to KayuPuti is no compromise on product. In a country where chefs may not have the financial resources to taste and experiment with expensive ingredients, Oscar encourages the members of his team to taste, try, and experiment. He encourages them to better themselves and their understanding and approach to ingredients.
Lunch is a more casual affair than dinner at KayuPuti. Many of the meals to prepare are classic pasta or seafood. I watch the meals prepared as I sit enjoying a meal perfectly positioned above and to the side of the kitchen.
Presentation and attention to detail is a high priority both for Oscar and at St Regis. Each plate, each meal, is cared for individually and each detail placed precisely in the right position. Each of the team members is encouraged to understand that consistency is key to quality. Each time a meal is prepared, it must be prepared to look and taste the same as the next, and it must stay this way.
As each plate receives these important finishing touches, a waiter waits patiently on the other side of the service bench. I imagine that for them, plate in hand, the time between kitchen and table must be nerve-racking, and the nerves would need to be calmed over time with an attention to building a confident arm.
Lunch service is steady until three, when just as lunch should be winding down, things get busy as guests wander in hungry from the beach.
Because of this daily wander in affect created by the beach, the time between lunch and dinner is short, meaning that there is no time for a break in between service. Lunch service doesn’t officially stop until five, and the KayuPuti kitchen and dining area must be ready to begin dinner service by six. This time in between service allows for a chance to clean and re-prep the kitchen and dining room in time for the evening guests.
As the light dims across the sky, the restaurant atmosphere transforms from a light bright casual but sophisticated venue into a warm ambience where wood floors, chairs contrast with white walls and cushions, tablecloths and crystal chandeliers. The night sky reflects the open kitchen environment of KayuPuti.
Alongside the full set dinner menu, dinner offers guests the opportunity to try the special KayuPuti degustation menu. A daily changing experience for guests, that provides the kitchen staff the opportunity to experiment with flavour and technique in a manner that would not be possible on a set menu. Each of the meals are innovative, and are based on the highest quality of ingredients available to St Regis, but still base themselves on an element of conservative meals. Each of the team members have an opportunity to showcase their particular skill and passion within this menu. This is the St Regis kitchen playground that Oscar describes. The reason each of the staff love coming to work each day, the reason the kitchen will remain a passion for each one of them during their time at St Regis and into their careers. This is cooking.
When service calms for the evening, the faces of the kitchen begin to relax. The team begins to chatter and smile and I get the feeling that there is a sense of achievement, a pride shared between the team at the end of each day. Talk is about food, and about what will be on the menu in days to follow, but it is casual and it is inspiring. This conversation is passion and not work.
Sometime after 11 pm, the staff will gather for a drink around the bar, or outside for a smoke and a laugh. By twelve, most of them will be on their way home, tired, but looking forward to the days ahead. This is the St Regis service, and although tired, I too, left smiling.
