Emaar Withdraws From US$600 Million Lombok Project

The Jakarta Globe reports that a massive US$600 Million mega-resort planned for South Lombok is now in jeopardy.

The project of shopping, recreation areas, golf courses and luxurious hotels on a 1,200 hectare site is a "pet project" of Indonesia's Vice President, Jusuf Kalla, who personally invited Dubai's state-owned Emaar Properties to spearhead the investment.

Citing bureaucratic delays and an inability by the government to fulfill its obligations, Emaar announced that thy have closed their Jakarta office and are abandoning it plans for investing in Indonesia. Elly Savitri, a representative of Emaar said. "there have been too many delays on the realization of the project and the company just could not wait any more."

Jakarta Globe coverage suggests that greed on the part of government officials seeking hand-outs may have also played a role in a decision to cancel the project. Meanwhile, others suggest that the worsening global financial crisis may have adversely affected the liquidity of Emaar and diminished their keenness to pursue the Lombok investment.

Lombok is almost certain to be sent reeling by Emaar's decision to quit the project, seen as the catalyst for planned new roads and a new international airport in Lombok. The final project was targeted to host 10,000 luxury villas, eight hotels and two 18-hole golf courses.

Emaar told the press that they have already expended US$4.2 million in consultancy fees in connection with the Lombok project.

Jusuf Kalla's plans to woo Middle Eastern investors appears to be in serious strife. The withdrawal of Emaar from the US$600 million Lombok Project follows the recent pull out of the Saudi Arabian Bin Laden Group from a US$4.3 billion agricultural project planned for Papua.

Vice President Kalla has reportedly convened a special meeting of cabinet ministers in a last ditch effort to salvage the prestigious Lombok project.

Raw Beauty

from breathtaking landscapes to untouched villages full of hospitable people, flores is indubitably a genuine gem. moreover, organising a trip to this eastern part of the archipelago has become much easier in the last couple of years. it’s time to make the best use of this island before it becomes too popular for magic

Drops of sunshine are scattered like silvery stardust over the ocean, while a chain of high rising mountains sketches the horizon. The sight is so striking that it could have come straight out of a storybook. It is hard to grasp why more travellers don’t choose to visit the Nusa Tenggara Islands.
My tumultuous romance with Indonesia began in 2002 – three days after the horrendously destructive first Bali Bomb – when I worked as a volunteer at one of the six orphanages near Maumere in East Flores. Arriving at the diverse isle – it had been over three years since my last visit – I realised that it still has an enchanting power over me, rousing the feeling of coming home after a long period of absence.

The large number of languages and dialects spoken across the island, its intricate history, mountainous savannah, and grassland scenery are just a few of the magical characteristics of Flores. Combined with an inherent uniqueness and magnetism, the island is still a somewhat overlooked Indonesian treasure. Its location within the legendary Ring of Fire – down the long string of Lesser Sunda Islands – ignites earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. Although the possibility of such disastrous infrequencies might sound alarming to some voyagers, the peril is the very reason behind Flores’ impressive topography. A total of 129 volcanoes – 13 per cent of the world’s volcanic mountains – are spread over more than 2500 Indonesian islands, giving rise to natural wonders such as century-old fossils, crater lakes and remarkable geological formations.

The plants and animals in Indonesia’s western regions resemble those of mainland Asia, whereas the archipelago’s eastern fauna and flora is similar to that of Oceania. Endemic species such as the one-horned rhinoceros, Flores’ giant rat, the komodo dragon, unusual coral groups, marine mammals, and the now extinct dwarf elephants, help spark off Indonesia’s pride and mostly exist – or existed – in the archipelago’s central islands.

Perhaps the most bizarre discovery of a species was the 2004 unearthing of hobbit fossils. Javanese and Australian archaeologists from the National Archaeological Research Centre and University of New England dug up the remains of a tiny male and female human being said to have lived 13.000 and 18.000 years ago. Not surprisingly, the finding of these relics – named the Homo Floresiensis – changed the face of science and has tinkered with deep-rooted theories of modern man’s descendants. Many museums on the island explicate dwarfism and display skeletons and modern constructions of the peculiar phenomenon.

Organising a trip to Flores has become much easier in the last couple of years. Flights from Bali to the island’s two airports – one in western Labuan Bajo and the other in Maumere in the east – are scheduled daily and treat travellers to dramatic air views of the nearby rising and falling islands. If time is not an issue, and if your budget doesn’t allow the rather pricy airfare, cheap boat trips are available from major cities such as Surabaya in Java and Kupang in East Timor.

Whether you intend to pass through Flores as part of a backpacking spree from another Indonesian island or neighbouring Asian country, or you’ve chosen Flores for a relaxing or action-filled vacation, there are plenty of travel options. Merpati and Pelita Air are recommended airlines when journeying from Bali.

One of the Merpati aircrafts flew me to Maumere, Flores’ largest town and one of the two entrance ports to the island; Labuan Bajo being the second. A wave of melancholic emotions stirred up my insides during the flight towards the island that so intensely changed my life. I was remembering my first visit from faraway Belgium, when I was a fresh out of school twenty-year-old and, frankly, knew nothing of the world; let alone of its easternmost part. Courageous and adventurous as I was at that age, I jumped at the chance of travelling to appealing Indonesia and lend a good-doer hand where needed for six months.
I had specialised in working with children and adults with mental and physical disabilities. Acquaintances of some chums of mine had travelled around the Maumere area in Flores and visited a handful of orphanages. They thought it would be a good learning experience for me to go and soak myself in a waterless pool of poverty and sickness. I agreed. We were all right.

At the small airport in Maumere I was met by Mama Belgi – the Mother Theresa of East Flores – who has remained a close friend of mine since 2002. The now 74-year-old humanitarian was as vigorous as I recalled her to be and hugged me with the strength of a young man. She grabbed a hold of my hand and pulled me towards the car waiting for us in the car park. Marie Jeanne Colson certainly lays claim to many qualities, but no one could ever accuse her of being sluggish or low-spirited.

As if I had never left, the inspiring woman started filling me in on the current situation at the six orphanages – and one dormitory for girls – which she has set up over thirty years ago. Apart from some dangerous floods and the poor health of some of the carers, not much has changed. Families are still struggling painstakingly with illnesses – due to the high living cost on the island and the many disabilities that require expensive treatments – while striving to provide for their children and relatives. Some households are less successful than others and are forced to knock on the door of one of Mama Belgi’s orphanages, desperate to feed their children and to get familiarised with proper therapies for their hindered lives.

One of Mama Belgi’s revered characteristics is her determination to fight the atrocious poverty polluting the beautiful island of Flores. Over the years she has brought an entire organisation into being. It is now possible for people to support unfortunate families by providing educational funds, by financially adopting a child, or by making donations (See website and contact details below).
Apart from being tormented by heart-wrenching destitution and often incurable sicknesses, the Florinese are some of the happiest and most joyful people I have ever come across. The cheerful reggae-like local music – so typical to island life – is heard along the streets, in public buses and from the folks’ basic houses. The instinctive emotional power and energy they call upon to deal with life and what it throws at them is nothing less than admirable. Their dark chocolate faces are lit up, as if it were a divine gift, by pearly white smiles and deep brown eyes coated with the light of purity. I don’t want to come across as bias, so I highly recommend you embark on a Flores expedition of your own. You might very well be the next in line to fall madly in love with the island and its easy-going residents.

Accommodation is not as plentiful as it is in, for example, Bali and Lombok, but there are some decent hotels in the area. I felt very comfortable staying at a lovely beachfront residence called Gading Beach Hotel – some 20 minutes from the airport – in the colourful town of Nangahure. The property is owned by a Florinese family man, Pak Robi, with whom I enjoyed vivid conversations about upgrading the pretty bungalows and further developing his hotel. By the end of this year, the 15 air-conditioned bungalows are to be united by seven two-storey villas with private kitchen and all other amenities that we, luxury-craving westerners, pine for. Prices are very reasonable ranging from Rp. 90,000 for a room with fan, Rp. 150,000 with AC and Rp. 250,000 for the yet-to-be-completed villas.

The service at Gading Beach Hotel is rather slow and it might be a good idea to order your food about an hour before you want to eat, but who would really mind the wait when surrounded by such magnificent sea view and mountainous greenery? I lay in a hammock overlooking the shimmering Indian Ocean and wondered about how many swimming creatures there are yet to be discovered. I sipped my fresh guava juice and grinned. Island life… Who can withstand the sense of freedom it brings about?

The management team at Gading Beach Hotel has come to master the skill of helping guests discover the island. Affordable tours – by car, on foot or by boat – are scheduled upon request and motorbikes are for rent. Whether you wish to go on an exploratory trip by yourself or in the company of the hotel’s knowledgeable driver, words of advice and must-see locations are suggested free of charge. Maumere is gushing with historic entities, is famed for its ikat (a type of hand-woven textile) clothing and sarongs, excellent diving and snorkelling, and Portuguese heritage. The city is also a great starting point for treks to other remarkable towns and villages.

For me, this trip to Maumere was one of rediscovery and reconnection with the people that have taught me life lessons many of us are yet to learn. For newcomers to the island, there is an extraordinary world to explore; from breathtaking landscapes and multicoloured lakes to traditional villages inhabited by the bravest and most hospitable of people. It truly is a wonder.

High Living in Lombok Part 2

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Still standing tall (betraying its rather relaxed namesake) is downtown Trawangan's only real upmarket bar-come-club come-restaurant still going strong with the more 'well-heeled' visitors to the island.

The menu carries the usual favourites but does an exceptionally mean steak and if you're lucky the odd Sunday roast might hover into view.

The menu rotates once a week to accommodate a variety of cuisines from around the world from Indonesia to Thailand and so on but the real reason you're likely to visit Horizontal are for the wild parties that kick off on almost a nightly basis.

Expect to see a bevy of tanned European beauties table dancing til dawn with the music policy a straight-up house/garage vibe.

It's all good fun until the morning after where you'll most likely bump into some of the culprits from the previous night's activities and be on the potently spicy bloody marys in no time.

Wikipedia says it best, 'it's the only place in the Gilis that wouldn't look out of place in Seminyak.' And who are we to argue?

Scallywags

Tapas is really proving itself popular of late both on Bali and now on Trawangan where one can tuck into olives, calamari, sardines and all manner of marinated goodness to the north and south of the island.

If you're not in the north of the island around the Karma Kayak restaurant then head south to the brand spanking new Scallywags restaurant to indulge in chef Asier's classic combinations of Mediterranean fare.

Asier was the man behind the original La Sal plan in Bali so you can bet that the menu at Scallywags will be top notch, and it is.

We sat down to a late dinner after a couple of cocktails at the bar and got stuck straight into an excellent selection of Tapas dishes before moving onto a healthy serving of pork chops and spicy apple blue cheese before sampling the lightly pan-seared fillet of coral trout and chorizo puffs with aoili and sesame seeds.

A very relaxing environment with proper comfy chairs, great drinks, a fresh Spanish-inspired menu at discreet prices and not a scally in sight. Also open for light lunches.

Below the Surface...
Castaway... Gili meno shack 58

No matter how far you run from the party scene on Gili Trawangan there's no escaping the crowds during the peak holiday months. After a couple of days of non-stop hell raising the need to totally detach from society and go Robinson Crusoe may take grip. Look up from the beach in Trawangan and over the channel and there lies a whole different island almost completely undisturbed by tourism, Gili Meno. Stock up on essentials (beer - check, suntan lotion - check, company - optional) and island hop for 5 minutes to Meno and the harmonious lodging of Shack 58 villa.

Rustic is a word that springs to mind as you troop through tiny villages in the pony trap. There are only a handful of buildings taller than one storey, hardly any bars or restaurants (except down by the harbour area) and no distractions apart from the sound of nature permeating the clip-clop of the pony's hooves.

Shack 58 occupies the beach to the north east of Meno. It's simple but tastefully furnished with two bedrooms, one facing out towards the ocean so you can sleep to the sound of the surf only yards away.

Two outdoor bathrooms, a well-equipped kitchen (the barbequed seafood here is some of the best I've encountered in Indonesia), no television and excellent service from the shack boys make this a very firm favourite when you really need to escape from the world in general.

Get up early in the morning for a sunrise over Mt. Rinjani then go back to bed, beachcomb or just hang out on the shack decking surveying your own private island beach.

US $45 per night.

Bookings through Island Promotions T: 753 241

There's an abundance of dive schools on Trawangan, Blue Marlin, Manta and Big Bubble being the three most popular with visiting divers. You're guaranteed modern equipment, well-trained local and western dive masters and fantastic ocean adventures regardless of whom you dive with. There are numerous dive locations scattered around the three Gili islands but we wanted something different this trip, we wanted a night dive.

Totally unlike any other experience the night dive disorientates, inspires and rewards those that have no compassion for daylight diving. Dropping in backwards over the side of the boat as the sun sets over Trawangan island and descending the first ten metres as the golden hues of the setting sun illuminate the shadowy waters is a very unique experience. Traversing Meno Wall at night, being swept along with the current, lighting your path with a flashlight and trying to dodge your dive buddies as bright red crustaceans poke their heads out of every nook and cranny is one real kick. Get lucky and you'll spot a Spanish Dancer or two, some napping turtles (don't wake them) and a whole heap of crabs, moray eels and other critters that take to the twilight stage when the ocean lights dim.

Manta Dive

T: (0370) 643 649

Getting there and back...

The now very popular way to get to the islands is with the Mahi-Mahi fast boat, running a daily service direct to Trawangan and leaving from Serangan harbour (20mins from Kuta) at 07.30am (boarding is 30 mins before at 07.00am). Return times are boarding at 10.30 and departure is at 11.00am. Journey time is between 2 and 2 ½ hours, Rp550,000 each way.

Contact Mahi-Mahi, bookings on 081 805 305 632

Island Promotions can also arrange helicopter transfers to either Oberoi Lombok (50 mins $1810) or Kelapa Villas (50 mins $1960) both routes max 4 passengers, both prices include hotel transfer to the airport.

There are regular flights every day (5 or 6 total) from Denpassar to Mataram, with Indonesia Air Transport, Merpati and Trans Nusa. Flight time is only 20 mins. Cost Rp345,000 – Rp385,000. All transport and inclusive airport transfers can be booked through Island Promotions on Poppies Gang One, Kuta.

T: 753 241
E: info@gili-paradise.com
www.gili-paradise.com

High Living in Lombok

Luxury Lombok. Two words that, until I started perusing the Internet, I wouldn't necessarily have put immediately next to each other. There's no question that in the next few years there will be an upsurge in visitors to Bali's rustic neighbouring cousin with the building of a new international airport that will dwarf that of Bali, not to mention our friends from Dubai recently investing 600 million dollars into developing an Emirates palace style resort.

So, before it all gets right out of hand in Lombok we scooted over to the island to take a very early glance at the luxury end of the accommodation sector and experience the warmth, curiosity and hospitality of the Lombok people. Did I mention the jaw dropping unspoilt landscape, awe-inspiring sunsets (yes, they're even better than on Bali) or the fact that this is the place to escape the marauding crowds of peak season Bali when all you're really after is a deserted beach and a feeling of really travelling the tropics?

Grab a martini, pack a map and hit the shores of Lombok in style with hello bali and treat yourself to a break in a brave new world.

First stop Senggigi, mainland Lombok and a couple of nights in Villa Quisia.

Villa Qusia

Staying in very top end private villas in Bali can leave an infinite dent on the wallet if you're anything less than super wealthy, so it comes as a surprise to learn that the villa rate for the extremely gorgeous Qusia starts at only US $650 ++ a night in peak season and dips to only $425 ++ in the low season months. Compare the size, scope and facilities of Qusia to that of a similar breed of villa in Bali and you'll be looking at saving around $1,500 bucks a night.

Sure, you may not have the luxury of hopping into a taxi and hot-footing it down to some world class Seminyak restaurant or partying all night with the jet-set elite of Bali but you'll be nearly two grand richer and that equates to a few crates of Dom Perignon by the 25 metre infinity pool as your personal chef whips up an ocean fresh barbeque whilst the sun slinks down over a distant Bali.

With three master bedrooms, an entertainment room with state of the art flat screens (don't forget to pack those DVDs you bought in Bali), a private study and library (with Internet connectivity), brand spanking new gym room and lush garden overlooking Mt Agung on the horizon, Qusia is a top end retreat from the world - quite literally an affordable slice of decadent living.

Bali based Dutch architect Joost Van Grieken has tastefully composed an artistic and refined atmosphere taking full advantage of the mountain location to make you feel as though you simply drift between the main villa, pool and outside dining areas. Distinctive teakwood tree trunks and Suar wood dining table are flanked by tasteful Balinese wood sculptures and inviting sofas gaze out over your own private ocean view.

Perfect for couples seeking a romantic interlude, for families wanting to spend some quality time together but even better as a party venue where you can book out neighbouring Villa Qunang, crank up the sound system, crack open the bubbly and keep it going all day and night without having to worry about anyone next door complaining.

Should you manage to drag yourself away from the villa for any length of time your personal butler will arrange any number of activities and excursions into the cultural heartland of Lombok or simply whisk you off down the mountain to a private beach all of your own.

T: (0370) 693 800 thequinci

Tee total

Fancy 18 holes with hardly anyone else out on the course?

The Kosaido Golf Club is to be found to the north west of Lombok set in a coconut plantation overlooking the azure ocean out to the Gilis.

The emphasis is on relaxation rather than any serious, strenuous activity but the course can be fairly challenging on a number of holes.

Arrange for transport from any one of the Senggigi hotels or the nearby Oberoi – even better is to charter a speedboat from neighboring Gilis and arrive in style on the beach at hole four.

T: (0362) 226 46

Kelapa Villas, Gili Trawangan

There was once a time when the best one could hope for in the way of accommodation on Gili Trawangan might be a hammock and a bottle of mosquito repellent for company. It's true that there are some parts of Gili's Air and Meno that are still like that but more later on the rustic charms of Meno as we lift the lid on that island's best accommodation option. For now we're in the thick of the action on Trawangan, it's hot (way hotter than Bali), heaving with backpacker types on the main thoroughfare and it's about time to flag down one of the passing cidomos (horse carts) and make tracks up to the Kelapa compound of luxury villas way away from the hustle of the busy main street.

Kelapa (being Indonesian for coconut) is perhaps unsurprisingly located in the middle of a plantation of palms towards the northern shores of Trawangan and because of the lack of development in the general vicinity is as completely conducive to peaceful relaxation as one could wish on this the busiest of the three Gilis.

The open design of the villas invites the outside world right into your bedroom with views of the pool, berugas (Sasak interpretation of the gazebo) and outdoor garden streaming into your own private hideaway. You have the choice of 1, 2, 3 and 4 bedroom villas but with only ten units available to rent booking in advance will be absolutely necessary in the busier months. Five of the ten villas are 3 bedroom costing between US $345 and $390 per night whilst the single 1 bedroom unit is $185 stretching right up to $620 for the flagship 4 bedroom Villa Cinta (prices are subject to 21% government tax and a US $40 surcharge during the peak months).

Of course, being on the party island of the Gilis you'll want to be out an about so mobility is an issue resolved with one of the easy rider bikes (single gear but mercifully no real inclines to deal with on the island) on loan from Kelapa. It's a ten minute ride down to the nearest bars and restaurants on the main part of Trawangan or if you head to the north shore round the back of Kelapa you'll find the charming Karma Kayak restaurant serving Tapas as the sun sets majestically over the islands.

If you simply can't bring yourself to leave Kelapa then rest assured that private catering can be arranged with the services of a personal chef once you've selected what you want to order from the shopping list, or simply order from the in-house menu. Kelapa is a fuss free option for those with a family in tow and babysitting facilities can be provided on request as can masseuses should the stresses of such tranquil surroundings become too much for you.

T: 081 237 56003
kelapavillas

Moyo Island: A Peaceful Forest by The Sea

This is the start of an adventure that leads along jungle tracks into the heart of the forest, venturing under the sea to swim with turtles and all the strange creatures of the deep. It is a walking, boating, diving and swimming weekend to the unspoiled Amanwana Bay, site of a luxury nature retreat on Moyo Island. Most of all, this journey to Amanwana is a chance to get back to nature and enjoy the simplicity of a peaceful life.

To reach Moyo, the journey begins at Denpasar airport on the Trivana Air Cessna Caravan, otherwise known as a floatplane. The plane flies past the peak of Mount Agung, then passes over Lombok's houses, farms and trees, before we find ourselves staring into the open crater of Mount Rinjani, filled with a mouthful of thick muddy emerald-coloured water. In the middle of this extraordinary lake, not far from the tallest peak of the crater, the small peak of baby Rinjani puffs a constant stream of cloudy smoke through a hole in its side.

It is 11 o'clock in the morning when we land at Amanwana, the intimate Aman retreat at the Moyo Island Nature Reserve, fifteen kilometres northeast of Sumbawa at the western end of Indonesia's secluded Nusa Tenggara Islands. The air is filled with the salty smell of the sea and the sandy heat of Moyo, the water beneath our feet is crystal clear and next to the jetty is a school of fish, including the beautiful purple and blue parrotfish, which are all watching us as we watch them.

From the jetty, I am led along a trail past the ocean and jungle tents, luxurious 58 square metre living spaces with solid wall foundations roofed by a soaring waterproof exterior and an interior covering of canvas, and into number 18, the ocean tent which is to be mine for the next three days.

Inside offers a charming Aman room that is air-conditioned, with hard wood floors, a ceiling fan for those who would prefer to turn the AC off, a king-size bed draped in netting, wheat-coloured divans, a writing desk, large bathroom with twin vanities, traditional Indonesian artwork from neighbouring islands and banks of windows that allow for a premium view of the natural surroundings.
My first adventure begins at the Amanwana beach boy area where I have planned to jump off the end of the jetty for a spot of snorkelling. Flippers and goggles in hand, I jump, carefully avoiding the school of fish, and swim straight into the red and white stripes of a huge lionfish. Splashing to an immediate halt I try desperately to swim backwards before his poisonous fins can touch my skin.

Somewhat in awe, and somewhat stressed, I change direction and swim off in the direction of Turtle Street in the hope of swimming with a green turtle instead.
After snorkelling, I wander along the stretch of sand known as Amanwana Bay, past the Jungle Cove Spa, and onto a small sandy road that promises to lead me toward Crocodile Head. Canvas map in hand, I follow the directions until I find two chairs and what is possibly the most perfect view of the sunset that can be imagined. As I sit, lost in the panoramic view of the Flores Sea as it turns to a light golden glitter next to the pink orange hues that fill the wide blue sky, the realisation dawns on me that I am a long way from camp. On the way back to camp, a set of very strange rustling noises catch my attention, my steps become quicker and I tell myself it is just a macaque monkey, or a bird rustling in the dry leaves, but I soon come to terms with the reality that I am being escorted home by a group of wild boar who have decided to block the path in front of me and grunt, snort and carry on until I decide to exit stage left.

The early morning turns Amanwana bay into a breakfast hunting ground. I rise early and wander toward the beach chairs to catch a glimpse of the spectacle. Before me, not even a metre past the edge of the sand, a dark cloud of fish smack the water, and I notice three black-tipped reef sharks coming towards them.

After a delicious breakfast of my own, a morning adventure into the heart of the island on a jungle excursion starts with a boat ride to the local town of Lapuan Aji, where I am taken on a tour of the local primary school, recently built by Amanwana, who plan to help educate the children on environmental awareness whilst they are learning their day to day education. Waving goodbye to the smiling faces and jumping on a restored Japanese Army Jeep, we venture past the cashew farms and grazing goats, and into a jungle that is dry but thick with palms and wild fig trees, torch-ginger blooms and shooting vines. A trail leads to a series of spring-fed waterfalls and limestone plunge pools, where bullfrogs call out as they jump through the inviting water, and I too, tempted by the chance to refresh in the beautiful watering hole, lower myself slowly into the cool deep waters.

The previous night I was feeling brave, and having met Sayaka, the very friendly and assuring PADI dive instructor based at Amanwana, I was convinced that I was in one of the most beautiful places in the world to try diving. The surrounding reefs teem with colourful fish, giant sponges, staghorn coral and gorgonian fans. Hawksbill and green turtles, moray eels, blue-spotted and eagle rays, lobster and other sea life are abundant, and in the protected waters of Amanwana Bay, there is not nearly as much to worry about as I had thought. So, I signed myself up for the beginners' lesson.

Upon returning to camp, I set off to suit up and jump face first into the land of fish. I have to say that the scariest thing about diving is the air tank. I had a preconceived idea that it would be back-breakingly heavy and that, weak with the weight, I would sink to the bottom of the ocean. It turns out that it is nothing like this at all. Sitting on the edge of the jetty, Sayaka already in the water, it's my turn to fall face first into the water. No time to back out now, so feeling like an alien invader, I fall face forward into the water. Over the next half an hour, I begin to understand the call of the underwater world, why divers think that it is so much nicer to swim with the fish, rather than over the top of them. I swim past the moving reefs next to a single giant tuna, close to adult turtles, find myself surrounded by a school of hundreds of fish, I stare at the tiny luminescent fish that live close to the coral, reluctantly touch a rare sea slug and watch as Sayaka smiles and stares in wonder at the world she loves so much, a world that I have seen from above, but until Amanwana, have never experienced from below.

There are many secret hideaway places to enjoy a meal around the camp, but the main open-air dining room, with its Sumbawa ipil wood floor, soaring bamboo roof and pillars of solid coconut, is the nicest. At night, when you sit on the lawn at the front of the restaurant, the view of the stars is exquisite. The staff are friendly and offer impeccable and attentive service. No matter where you choose to eat, there is a blackboard menu offering a selection of entrée, main and dessert options that changes with each meal time. The Amanwana kitchen likes to offer a combination of fresh Asian and Western dishes and each of the meals are made with organic vegetables and herbs picked fresh from the Chef's garden, combined with locally sourced produce and high quality imported items. If you are feeling adventurous a romantic beach barbeque is also an option, where sitting at a table in the sand you are served a freshly caught selection of lobster, prawns, squid and fish.

On my final day at Amanwana, I decide to start the morning early with a three-hour bat cave trek. Due to the length and difficulty of this trek, it is only available when accompanied by a guide. So, I made an appointment with Mr Samiun, who hails from Moyo Island and is said to have wandered the trails of Moyo since he was a young boy. The track is a continuation of the Brang Sedo Village path and leads to a cavernous hole within the forests of Moyo. The cave is inhabited by seven species of bat, that when disturbed, begin to fly in circles around the cave. Unperturbed, Samiun encourages me to venture further into the cave, until we find ourselves crouched on our knees, torch in hand, bats flapping past our faces, staring into the several caverns that lay beyond reach. As we head for the exit, a python slithers down from a rock opening high above our heads, and flicks his tongue at us in annoyance.

The best thing for the body after a long walk is, of course, a massage, followed by a juice and a relaxing swim in the pool. At Amanwana there are two spa areas. The first is an outdoor jungle cove spa, where you can truly relax within nature whilst you stare out at the ocean, and the second is a spa tent where you can enjoy the peaceful sounds of the forest from within the quiet, private air conditioned space of a tent.

The treatments at the Amanwana spa are based on the Aman signature menu, with the addition of a selection of Amanwana extras such as the Amanwana fruit facial made with local fruits and Moyo honey to refresh your skin after an adventurous day of sun and sand.

The starlight cinema is my final activity for the day, a special screening of Myths Magic and Monsters, the more recent series created by Dr. Lawrence Blair, famed for his Ring of Fire adventures in his youth. After this thorough education on the myths of the Green Sea Goddess is over, I return to my tent and the welcome of sleep, three days of land and sea finally catching up with me.
Set in one of the world's most untouched wilderness and marine environments, Amanwana comprises an open invitation to explore nature and indulge the senses in a landscape largely untouched by time. Amanwana helped me connect to the yearning for simplicity that I didn't realise I was calling out for.

Amanwana
Moyo Island, West Sumbawa,
T: 0371 22 233
amanresorts.com

Gili's the truth island

Just off the north-west coast of mainland Lombok are three island dots that barely register on the map. No motorbikes, no crowds, no worries. Welcome to the real island vacation.

"One hundred thousand boss", pitched the guy at the pony transport office, "sixty", I replied, fully prepared to meet him at seventy to stifle any protracted haggling for an hour's ride around Meno island. "Forty", he countered quickly without blinking. Negotiating services in the backwaters of Indonesia were clearly going to be less of a headache than previously anticipated as here we find ourselves on the pristine and desolate shoreline of Gili Meno, a fifteen-minute boat ride from neighbouring big brother Trawangan but several centuries removed from the modern world. It's the real Indonesia, what visitors travelling to Bali expect to find but can no longer access thanks to a hundred bulldozer blockades and a thousand 'proyek' signs on luxury villa complexes. Here in the lesser-frequented Gilis of Meno and Air development is, as yet, almost entirely unheard of.

The point of entry to this island paradise is still the party central Trawangan, where the daily fast boats dock at the tiny jetty from Bali delivering hundreds of backpacking travellers and an ever increasing flock of affluent jet set types to a different kind of tropical island experience. Many never make it any further than the beach bars and restaurants where raucous all night parties give way to stunning sunrises over Mount Rinjani as boatloads of early morning divers gear up for the first descent of the day.

Trawangan has, over the course of the last year, emerged as a luxury destination in its own right (thanks largely to the vast number of top end villas that have been springing up), signalling the arrival of big money to what was not so long ago a haven for dreadlocked European types on a gap year 'experience'. It's still hard to resist the seductively slow and relaxed pace of life on the largest of the three islands where cars and motorbikes are outlawed and the preferred method of transport is the humble mountain bike or local 'cidomo' (pony trap, often helmed by a ten year old pilot). Villa Baruna is our elected home base for the first couple of nights, a modern 'home from home' perfect for families or large groups and a bargain compared to the room rates of other such comparable properties on the island. Situated around a hundred metres back from the south beach area you can still navigate your way to the heart of the bar and restaurant scene in a little less than ten minutes by bike but be warned - the journey back home after a stop at Rudy's Bar can take up to four hours for reasons one can discover for oneself. Villa Baruna is a quiet alternative to living on 'the strip' and boasts its own crew of helpers and houseboys who'll run errands and tend to the preparation of meals and other such duties while you make the most of poolside sun worshipping.

If you are short on family members or travelling in a smaller group but still looking for quality accommodation then it's worth checking out Manta Dive with average rates of IDR 450,000 –650,000 depending on high and low season occupancy. With probably the best mid range accommodation choice Manta Dive has eight beautiful Lombok style rice barn bungalows with funky outside bathrooms. Dive and accommodation packages are also available. Karma Kayak are a slightly more affordable option in the region of IDR 350,000 – 550,000 a night, offering large bungalows decorated in their own individual style: Caribbean, African, Oriental and Sasak (indeginous Lombok). Situated right at the end of the beach away from the bars and restaurants Karma Kayak is a perfect choice for utter serenity. The Karma girls offer kayaking adventures over the straits to Meno and Air and the trip is an experience worth the effort! If you prefer to be in the heart of the action then Tir Na Nog (or The Irish as it's commonly referred to on the island) have a number of rooms out back of the restaurant and bar area in the region of IDR 350,000 – 500,000. The central location of the villas and rooms is a perfect choice for the party crowd; clean, spacious and secure the restaurant has several private cushioned gazebos with DVD players and televisions and a thousand movies to choose from – the perfect way to kill a lazy afternoon if the heavens should open. Pondok Lita is set back from the strip towards the village area of Trawangan but remains a backpacker's favourite recommended by the Rough Guide to Bali and Lombok. Eight quiet fan or air-conditioned rooms with western standard bathrooms surround a small secluded garden in a family atmosphere, and are priced from IDR 130,000 – 200,000.


Dinner is a major event on Trawangan with the entire population of visitors gravitating to the north beach area to any number of restaurants and cafés lining the paved strip. Blue Marlin Café offers a varied international menu during the day and reputedly the best grilled sea fish on the island in the evenings - try the salads or grilled trevally in garlic with one of their fresh juices. Breakfast and lunch is an easy choice with Coco coffee shop being, by far, the best option for Illy coffees, delicious home made cakes and freshly filled and oven baked baguettes that are even better than you can find on mainland Bali. Horizontal is a funky top end bar, restaurant and sometimes club with the best western food on the island if the owner or his wife are in the kitchen. Try the strawberry margaritas or mint mojitos and lounge on the oversized beach cushions during the day. Scallywags serves up cuisine from northern Spain's Basque region made with fresh organic locally sourced ingredients. The pan seared coral trout with manchego salad and the tempura sardines drizzled with apple sauce are both worth checking out. Tir Na Nog remains very popular with just about everyone. The Irish 'Shipwrecked Bar' and restaurant is the hub of the strip. Full on BBQ, beef and Guinness pies with mash and gravy and the best pizza on Trawangan - all at sensible prices.

The main attraction on Trawangan, apart from the parties and bar shenanigans (and the sole reason the island even exists on the tourist maps), is the sheer number of high quality dive sites scattered around this particular part of Northwest Lombok. The three Gilis are recognised as one of Indonesia's top areas for scuba diving with a reputation for being the 'turtle capital of the world'. Year round water temperatures average about 28 degrees celsius often with infinite visibility and are well suited to beginners and experienced divers alike. There are about 18 dive sites around the three islands, with a variety of topography (slopes, walls, ridges and canyons) and an enormous amount of diverse marine life including white tip reef sharks, lots of turtles (hawksbill and olive ridley), lionfish, scorpion fish, cuttle fish and octopus, moray eels, sea snakes, different types of rays (blue – spotted, eagle and from December to March - manta rays) not to mention schools of bump head parrot fish every full moon and the occasional whale shark. Han's Reef on Gili Air is fast becoming renowned for excellent 'muck diving' where divers can see rare critters like frogfish, pink - leafed scorpion fish, flying gunard, mantis shrimp, nudibranches, pygmy seahorses, robust ghost pipefish, blue ringed octopus and ringed pipefish; the opportunities are literally endless.

There are several dive outfits located on Trawangan that boat divers out to the offshore walls and deeper trenches. All are PADI certified with the most popular being Manta Dive, Blue Marlin and Big Bubble. Both Manta and Blue Marlin have now set up operations on Gilis Air and Meno meaning that access to some of the lesser-frequented dive sites is even more convenient for visitors staying on either island. It isn't until you actually set foot on Meno and Air that you realise just how frantic life on Trawangan is by comparison.

Bali starts to form in your imagination as a distant nightmare for on these islands you really are living a castaway life. Don't expect any electricity during the day, there's no gourmet dining anywhere to be found on either island and a cold beer can easily assume the form of a luxury item given how isolated your surroundings are.

There's a choice of small time villa and hut operations that stretch from the jetty on the south side and past Sunset Gecko - charming and well-situated traditional two-storey bamboo and wood beach houses. Continue around the shoreline and you'll find one of the best accommodation options there is on Gili Meno – Shack 58. This is something entirely unique to the islands with an array of rooms either air-conditioned or au natural in the outside barugas. Here you can sleep with the ocean literally at the end of your bed. A short island hop to Gili Air and the accommodation options are more plentiful, as is the backpacker 'feel' that you would have found on Gili Trawangan ten years ago. Pick of the bunch is the new Sejuk Cottages. Each cottage is independently styled using traditional Lombok wood and alan alang thatched roofing. The upstairs chill out area above the bedrooms of two of the cottages boast hammocks and a cushioned space in which to soak up the breeze and be that bit closer to nature. The Gili Air Hotel is a favourite amongst Italian visitors during August and is the nearest you will find to resort style living whilst on the island.

Just across the channel separating Gili Air from mainland Lombok a rather unusual project has taken shape on Sire beach adjacent to the golf course. A testament to the heritage, culture and artistic legacy of the people of Lombok, the Tugu Group has recently completed work on their latest property that features antiquities and artwork originating from the period of history surrounding the past several hundreds of years of Lombok: from the ancient Hinduism period of Lombok; the time of the influences from the Arabic merchants and the Chinese immigrants; the period when the Sasaks were colonized by the Dutch occupation in 1674 to the revolt that signaled their departure in 1894. Anybody already familiar with Tugu Bali or Tugu Malang will know what to expect from Tugu Lombok- a blend of deep research of culture in beautiful landscape and magical atmosphere. The project is a spellbinding trip into a forgotten chapter of Indonesian history with every aspect of the traditional lifestyles of the native Lombok people being transposed into the 21st century.

What Tugu continues to achieve is a commitment to preserving the national identity of Indonesia. The Anhar family behind all the properties stand defiantly against the 'dumbing down' of the Republic's posthaste charge into blithe western modernism. Visiting any Tugu Hotel is comparable to staying in a luxurious museum where every artifact has been granted new life to breathe forgotten tales of intrigue and mystery into the guest's subconscious. Service here is incomparable to any of the five star resorts in Bali or anywhere else in the world for that matter, Tugu simply sets the standard in hospitality excellence. The property at Sire Beach is both miles behind and ahead of its time but contradictions are the very lifeblood of the underlying concept that has themed Tugu Lombok. One can almost visualize a thousand travel agents across the Asian region shaking their heads in disbelief, but when Tugu Lombok throws open its gates later this month any critics remaining in the audience will be silenced in a flash.

What will happen to Lombok in the next few years is anyone's guess. The massive investment from the Middle East will see an Asian super resort take shape where The Novotel currently resides in the Kuta area. Leaked plans show a vast percentage of the south starting to resemble a grander version of Nusa Dua with manicured golf courses, a rumored Armani hotel and giant seaport amongst other 'attractions' for the super wealthy.

It's a case of now or never for visitors to Bali's less frequented cousin. Guide reports of the Sasak people being aggressive, untrustworthy and dangerous are wildly inaccurate. The environment is pristine compared to that of Bali and the spirit of adventure in this very special part of the archipelago remains strong. Step off the beaten track for a few days and discover a far-flung side to Indonesia, it's right on your doorstep.

All Gili accommodation, activities and transport is easily booked online at gili-paradise Email:info@gili-pardise.com or locally in Bali at Island Promotions:

The Gili Paradise Shop
Poppies Lane One, Kuta
0361 753 241

For more information on Tugu Lombok contact:
Hotel Tugu Lombok
Sire Beach
0370 620 111

Going on Lombok

2008 has seen a million new boutique hotels, resorts and villas start to take shape across the island. From the cliffs of Uluwatu to the hills of central Bali the construction rigs have been grinding non-stop throughout the year. Even the precarious state of the global economy has failed to deter the international investors from depositing huge sums of money into the 21st century refurb revolution that Bali has become. Many of these new developments are hard to separate from each other in terms of architecture and concept so it takes something really unique to capture our attentions in this era of trite minimalist conformity. Tugu Lombok (Sire Beach, T: 0370 620 111) has delivered the goods on all fronts with the opening in August of their latest retro-inspired creation, drawing inspiration from the Dutch colonial period in the late 19th century.

Beautifully set beautifully on the sandy shores of Sire Beach, west Lombok and literally a stone's throw from the Gili Islands, Tugu Lombok is a luxurious retreat retelling The Negarakertagama manuscript of ancient Hindu rites from the Majapahit Kingdom coupled with the romance of the Mahabharata period. As with all Tugu properties in Indonesia, the attention to detail in the restoration of authentic antiquities, preservation of Indonesian heritage and commitment to originality at any cost secures a special place in our hearts. An enrapturing experience and quite unlike anything you will have experienced before.

Learning to Dive in Gili's-Lombok

Learning to dive has been near the top of my 'to do' list for a while. Fuelled by diving specials on The Discovery Channel, it was time for action. Options included Amed and the PADI Openwater Course or Gili Trawangan, off Lombok. Lombok won and it was off to Poppies Lane One to see Phil at The Gili's Islands Shop, rumoured to send guests to the islands, with a minimum of fuss and a good price.

"Gilis" is the Lombok word for the small islands off the coast but the three famous Gilis sit to the North West, about ten minutes away by boat. Gili Trawangan is the most popular with the best tourist infrastructure. The other two islands (Gili Air and Meno) provide more of a Robinson Crusoe feel for the adventurous traveller.
Two days later I was on a twin prop aircraft heading east. As the pilot revved the lawnmower engine we sputtered upwards, off to Mataram, Lombok's capital, a slow moving and peaceful place. Ways to access the Gilis are numerous, starting with a helicopter. A popular cheaper method is
the slow ferry from Padang Bai to Lembar - take the 8.00 am ferry and you may be accompanied by dolphins!

Another company, Perama collects guests from their hotels, brings them to Padang Bai, where a fifty pax traditional phinisi sails direct to Trawangan for rp 245,000. It takes approximately eight hours but what a good day! It is also possible to sail in a jukung from Amed in three hours. So many options! Fastest is the speedboat service that powers across the Lombok Strait and in good conditions, takes just under two hours from Benoa Harbour to the Gilis at 690.000 each way.

The day starts early in Trawangan and it's a pleasure to stroll the empty lanes to the beach without a motorbike in earshot. Stopping in at Cocos coffee shop for a world class latte and bacon baguette is a treat and, if you're lucky Cocos proprietor Gaby will have a batch of denture pulling brownies on the go, handy for that extra power when you're diving. Looking out across the channel to neighbouring Gili Meno you feel just about as far away as possible, whilst enjoying city treats, which in hindsight sums up life on Trawangan in a tidy nutshell.

After poring over numerous chapters of dive information and videos of people gliding effortlessly through turquoise waters I was keen to start. So how to choose your dive teacher? So many to choose from! I settled on Manta Dive, largely owing to the friendly staff. It was impossible to feel like an outsider long at this school – a great way to dive.

That afternoon I experienced the first joys of breathing underwater - albeit in the safety of the confined pool! It's an odd feeling the first time you breathe air underwater, you feel like you've pulled a sly one on God's design of mankind. It took a couple of minutes to adjust to the obvious fact that underwater you can only breathe through your mouth! A series of underwater exercises later and it was all over for the day. Tomorrow would be the big push! An excursion into no man's land for our first twelve metre adventure.

After the compulsory early evening beers, we trekked off past The Living Room (a highly affordable eatery in a rustic beachside hut) to the Horizontal Lounge, a bit further down the beach road. Considering that every other bar on this stretch is simply a shack, it is a surprise to round the corner and be greeted by a huge white concrete and glass Singapore clone. The well designed bar, funky sound system and burgundy, red and white decor add panache to the simple island scene, as does the hospitable, flamboyantly attired owner Guy. He seems to have emerged direct from a hot London nightclub, his snakeskin cowboy boots and black Armani shirts make a far cry from the sarung and tee shirt crowd. It's all very David Lynch.

The next two days of diving were awesome. I can't begin to tell you how staggeringly beautiful it feels to be in whole new ocean environment where coloured fish zip past you whilst mean looking Trigger fish skulk across the ocean floor, guarding their nests. Moray eels poke their heads out of rocky nooks and crannies, giant turtles float past on the way to the surface for air, whilst white tipped reef sharks slink around keeping an eye on affairs. The drift currents keep us moving and no real physical exertion is required at all, apart from the odd hand gesture to our faithful instructor Emma and a bit of fin action to propel oneself a few metres deeper.

I was hooked instantly from the first shark I saw and classroom theory disappeared as I buzzed with anticipation for the next dive. The last dive on the neighbouring Gili Air was the best by far, a descent to eighteen metres and perfect visibility revealed the beautiful live coral and stunning array of inhabitants. It's a shame that the majority of the shallower coral in the islands has been killed off, owing to the El Nino that struck a few years ago and the possible odd dynamite bombing by the fishermen. But dive deeper to find more.

A reef regeneration project is currently underway on the island that will eventually encourage new coral growth which will attract new marine directly in front of Villa Ombak and Trawangan Dive.
Further down the beach there is a turtle hatchery operated by Pak Dino (right in front of Dino's Café). Local people collect the eggs and bring them to the sanctuary to place in secure incubation areas. After hatching they are kept in holding tanks until the turtles are large and healthy enough to be released into the sea. A fine commitment that make you realise that you are indeed in a very special part of Indonesia.

Pulling out from Trawangan early Friday morning by speedboat we skimmed back to Bali in record time (one hour forty minutes on the Bluewater speedboat). It really gives the Gilis a 'next door' feel. As we docked into Benoa harbour,I saw my first car in a week and I recalled what Emma had said to me the night before, about how lucky people are to dive the islands. She's right; they really are a very special place.
For more information contact:
Phil Smith Hp - + 62 (0) 81 338 114 232
The Gili Islands Shop, no. 12 (next to Fat Yogi's)
Poppies Lane 1, Kuta, T: +62 (0)361 753241
E: islandpromotions@spymac.com
www.gili-paradise.com