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Astor Ballroom, The St Regis Bali Resort: Karat Caviar and Champagne Duval-Leroy dinner with a special menu created by executive chef Oscar Perez. The affair starts with a cocktail and canapé reception at King Cole Bar, which is then followed by a six-course dinner at Astor Ballroom. Rp. 2,250,000 nett, T: 0361 300 6114
Bella Singaraja Restaurant, InterContinental Bali Resort: Italian dinner – antipasti buffet and classic pasta mains – with 50 per cent off on all house wines and…a singing chef! Rp. 260,000++ per person for dinner only, 6.30-10pm,
T: 0361 701 888
Café Lagoon, The Laguna Nusa Dua: two Balinese cooking classes to choose from created by their award-winning executive chef I Made Putra. The Epicurean Exploration class includes a trip to a local food market and three-course Balinese lunch (US$ 95++), and the Exquisite Epicurean Class includes an introduction to Bali’s exotic spices and herbs and a three-course lunch (US$ 55++). Booking is a must. Every Friday, starts at 12 midday,
T: 0361 771 327
Kayumanis Restaurants: daily-themed dinners – Indonesian cuisine with keroncong (Jimbaran, Tapis Restaurant, US$ 40++), flavours from Italy (Nusa Dua, Piasan Restaurant, US$ 40++), picnic lunch in the woods (Ubud, Buahan Village, US$ 35++) and a barbeque of Balinese delicacies with live dance performances (Sanur, Gong Restaurant, US$ 40++),
T: 0361 705 777
Mata Air Café, Villa Air Bali: healthy-lunch set menu that includes Parma ham and organic vegetables, rolled chicken, tuna carpaccio, snapper Monte Carlo and many more. Booking also comes with a special discount on beverage purchases. Rp. 199,000++, T: 0361 737 378
Pesona Lounge, Grand Hyatt Bali: choose from a myriad of their quality spirits and create your own martinis.
Rp. 98,000++ per glass, daily 8-11pm,
T: 0361 771 234
Kamis, 30 September 2010
food events
Rabu, 03 Februari 2010
Outer Spice at Raja's
authentic balinese cuisine served in a fine dining setting is a rarity on the island; even rarer is one run by an australian chef and serving exclusively halal dishes. no, we’re not kidding you. this is raja’s
After staring at the multiple-spice-covered duck for about an eternity, the reflection from the knife and fork effortlessly cutting into the meat woke me up. Before I knew it, I was served a big chunk of the meat. Dining with the person who runs the restaurant, Darren Lauder, I thought of warning him by saying, “I’m sorry, please don’t think I’m crazy, but I’m about to eat a whole duck in front of you.”
Thankfully, I had second thoughts: Maybe I shouldn’t say something like that. Nobody takes a whole-duck-eater seriously. So instead, I said, “Enjoy your duck,” while at the same time making sure I had the bigger share of the portion.
In a nutshell, the duck was nothing like others I had had before. It was tender, tasty and addictive. I could go on and on about the duck, but the truth is that the whole dining experience at Raja’s was just as top notch.
The sambel embe burnt the right spots in my mouth I had to ask for a second portion. The soup tasted as delicious and clear as water after a whole night of drinking. And the small platters of traditional Balinese appetisers (rayunan pengawit Bali sane kasub) brought back memories from my childhood in Lombok.
“Yes, there are similarities between Balinese cuisine and that of Lombok, but not with other Indonesian cuisines such as Javanese which tends to be more sweet,” explained Darren, who is the executive chef of Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa where the restaurant is located.
He went on, “Balinese cuisine doesn’t use as much sugar and coconut. They are not prominent in their cooking process. Instead, Balinese cuisine uses a lot of freshly ground spices and herbs. They use the pestle and mortar to extract the oil, not the juices, from them and use the oil to marinate the meat and then cook them together. So it’s in reverse from the Indian cooking method where the spices are roasted first before the grinding and marinating process.”
A native of Australia, Darren received his formal kitchen training in his home country. Despite having done stints in kitchens in far flung corners of the world like the Middle East, Nagoya, Japan, and Santiago de Chile, the affable chef wasn’t always this knowledgeable about the gastronomy of our beloved island.
“Before I came to Bali, I thought the food here would be more like that of Thailand with a lot of curry, lemongrass, spices and ginger,” he admitted. Then as soon as he landed two and a half years ago, he was immediately given the task to transform what was originally a seafood eatery into a fine dining restaurant serving authentic Balinese cuisine.
“Was it as scary as when you were about to jump off a plane for the first time?” I asked. The Sagittarian daredevil laughed and recalled, “It was definitely challenging. It was a big learning curve for me.”
The first piece of the Raja’s puzzle was getting the recipes. “I invited my staff to bring recipes from their homes, the favourite traditional recipes of their families, and cook them how they’re supposed to be cooked. Not a la carte them or change anything,” he explained. “This was for me to learn the concept of Balinese cooking.
The whole process took some eight months of hard work, which included intensive research through going around the island tasting foods from the small warungs at the side of the streets of the smallest villages in search of even more rare authentic recipes.
“A lot of the traditional things we are doing in our kitchen are now lost. One example is our timbungan (referred to as timbungan be kambing on the menu, it is spiced minced lamb, baked in bamboo shelves and carved on the table) which isn’t practiced anymore,” he pointed out.
Later, I found out that my duck, too, came to fruition from long hours of kitchen work. “The duck is imported from Australia. This is because the meat is more tender and tastier than the local ducks. Then it was marinated for six hours in 16 different spices before being slowly baked in a low-heat oven for at least six hours,” explained Darren.
“Impressive,” I thought feeling slightly less guilty about having just eaten one whole duck. “But why don’t you have babi guling on your menu?” I asked.
“Because we’re a 100-percent-halal restaurant” was his answer.
My surprised expression must’ve been apparent to him as he immediately added: “It was another challenge because pork is a big part of Balinese cuisine and when we opened the restaurant it was difficult to source halal produce in Bali. But Raja’s kitchen is independent from the other kitchens in the hotel. Everything goes straight to Raja’s kitchen and all the meats and vegetables are processed there.”
The 60-seat restaurant’s kitchen is manned by six staff, two of which are female, and all work in harmony with the waiting staff that embody the elegance of the restaurant. They know their products very well. Ask any of them about any dish on the menu and they’ll happily take you through it. I couldn’t help but observe how Darren watchfully yet subtly oversaw everything that was going on that evening. He knew every single garnish that was supposed to be served with each dish, and where and how they were supposed to be served. Therefore, it came as no surprise to me that Darren and his team won The Best Service Award in the recent Tri Hirta Karana Awards 2009, which also saw Darren – who also holds the position as vice president of Bali Culinary Professionals – being given a gold medal.
As it got darker, the atmosphere at the restaurant became more chic. The contrast illuminated the many intricate carvings that adorned Raja’s outside dining area. The one inside is perhaps brighter but no less of a treat for the eyes. It’s graceful but comfortable. Gorging on my cendol manis (rice dumplings with coconut milk and palm sugar) I shamelessly asked Darren one last question,
“How many ducks do you prepare each day?”
“Three or four only. That’s why we recommend our guests order beforehand.”
And there went my dream of having two ducks in one evening.
Raja’s, Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa, Nusa Dua,
Lot North 4, T: 0361 771 210, www.nusaduahotel.com;
only open for dinner, closed on Tuesdays
Kamis, 03 September 2009
Tirtagangga A Taste Of The Rajah’s Life In Rural Bali
Nestled in the rice paddies of eastern Bali, on the site of a sacred spring, the last Rajah of the Karangasem Regency built his weekend retreat, an elaborate Water Palace with a view of the ocean to the east and Mount Agung to the north. He called it Tirta Gangga meaning "holy water" from the Ganges, the sacred river in India.
Tirta Gangga is a truly amazing location, the visual stimulus is breathtaking, an experience that will stay with you for the rest of your life. It's the historic, cultural hub of the island, this is the real Bali at its best. Many visitors are inspired to take picturesque walks or photograph the fabulous scenery and artists love to paint the beautiful landscapes that surround Tirta Gangga.
Eight months ago Julie Crampton, previously Marketing Director of the Watergarden Hotel in Candidasa became an investor and Managing Director of Tirta Ayu Hotel and Restaurant, which is located within this fabulous Water Palace. She has, with the help of her trusted manager, Haryo Sugih Arso (who works very closely with the East Bali Tourist Authority and Hotel & Restaurant Association) managed to transform the villas and restaurant into a magnificent place to dine and stay.
Tirta Ayu's chefs are all highly experienced; their menus are simply delicious, cooked to perfection and the presentation is out of this world, they also have an extensive wine list which includes a good Burgundy and Claret, wines can be bought by the bottle or by the glass as can ice cold beers and sizzling cocktails.
Weddings at this spectacular location will make your perfect day in paradise a reality, not just a dream with memories you will treasure for the rest of your life.
The restaurant can cater for group bookings of up to 150 with a superb buffet style menu, they also provide outside catering for private parties. Tirta Ayu can make your special occasion an event that will be remembered for eternity.
The Cooking School has an almost magical atmosphere about it with a trip to the local market to buy some of the ingredients for Balinese cooking at its very best using traditional methods and finally sitting in a relaxed setting with a magnificent view, eating your lunch or dinner.
Tirta Ayu's rooms have been decorated and furnished in true Balinese style; whilst luxurious they still retain the charm and mystique of the Balinese culture. Their slogan is "Built for a king now a royal treat for visitors".
Tirta Ayu Hotel & Restaurant, Tirtagangga Water Palace, East Bali
T/ F: (0363) 22503
Food for The Soul
Indeed it's a "Wellness Corner" menu that Brandon has most recently introduced, and his passion for organically-grown and locally-sourced food is what he's known for. "We always had a spa menu but it was only for the spa and in-room dining, so it was the one thing I hadn't put my stamp on," says the accomplished chef. "I wanted to do something special so I spent quite a bit of time researching it, and I've incorporated it on the lunch and dinner menu as well," he explains, noting that the complete nutritional value of each dish is listed on the menu, something people who are carefully watching their cholesterol, for instance, will welcome. "It was a little painstaking to get that information," he confesses.
The light, summery dishes – think rice paper ravioli, think golden gazpacho – are a complete departure from the cream-laden cuisine Brandon was trained classically to produce in Paris. "Pretty much anyone who goes to school, you get a foundation in that. You don't really go to culinary school and learn how to do vegan cuisine. So I took it upon myself and just researched it."
So first up we split two dishes from the Wellness Corner menu. The organic quinoa salad with nashi pear, papaya relish, toasted almonds and curry vinaigrette is light, yet flavoursome, the curry flavour a startling but delicious collision with the crispy greens from the mountains of Bedugul. The dish is subtly sweetened by the pear and given substance by the delicate spirals of quinoa. Orange edible flowers flecked with black lift the presentation well beyond the ordinary.
These concoctions are also set to feature at a second restaurant The Balé will manage from August. Bamboo, at The Amala in Seminyak, will be limited to just four or five tables with a similar health-inspired theme. "The focus is on wellness and the holistic, so we're going to basically take what we have here, shrink it and put it over there," Brandon enthuses.
He looks forward to shuttling between the two properties. He and his wife, a pastry chef, spent time in Bhutan managing the food in four lodges, so he's used to being on the prowl. "When you're in the same place for a few weeks at a time you kind of get in a rut. But when you can go to a new property, you see things again with fresh eyes. It stops it becoming stale."
Our health kick is over
Next up from the standard Faces menu comes our chorizo flatbread, its heady aroma heralding its arrival. It's a meat-lover's nirvana, slathered in sliced chorizo, chunks of pork belly, salty bacon, arugula, dabs of blue cheese and a sprinkling of chilli flakes. "Kind of like going to McDonalds and getting your Big Mac and Diet Coke," Brandon quips.
It seems doubtful that this American would be frequenting fast food joints very often and he admits that he eats well at home. ("You'd be surprised! I offset it with the Bintang," he says with remorse, patting some very negligible padding.) He cooks four or five times a week at home, dining with his wife and their 13-month-old son. The couple met at culinary school in France. Brandon was following a passion for food he developed while working in the industry to support himself at college, where he studied business management. His wife, who has a degree in environmental engineering and had been working for GE for a few years, had decided she wanted to open a pastry shop, so she dropped everything to follow her dream. And they've worked together ever since.
Guests invited round to the Huismans' for meals are typically treated to a joint effort, a grill with maybe some steaks, barbecue ribs and chicken wings, along with home-made pizzas and salad. A wood-fired pizza oven is in fact currently under construction at their house, along with a home-made barbecue grill made with a 50-gallon drum. What would he whip up for a vegetarian popping over? "Ah, they wouldn't be invited!" he laughs, before conceding that if he had to, he'd probably do a platter of grilled vegetables, particularly of local asparagus if it was in season. And if he really wanted to impress, I imagine he could probably pull a few strings and get some Faces take out.
The Balé
Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan
Nusa Dua, Bali, T: 0361 775 111 thebale.com
Selasa, 18 Agustus 2009
Tugu, A Culinary Time Machine to Centuries Old Bali
For a relatively small island, Bali probably has the most complete variety of international fare restaurants compared to other islands. But where does one go for quality Indonesian dining, where one can indulge in a beautiful and indigenous atmosphere, savor delicious authentic dishes, and have decent wines? Instead of restaurants, Hotel Tugu in Canggu has spectacular theatrical dining venues with different themes that transport guests from one era of Indonesia's past to another. There must have been around 30 different kinds of dining experiences that I was told of by the staff - but the few below are the ones that really stick. One of my favorites was the atmospheric Warong Tugu. Set in a rustic open kitchen inspired by the daily lifestyle of Javanese and Balinese between the 15th to the 19th century, Waroeng Tugu is an open air hut with old tiled roof, featuring a row of beautiful antique statues and old wooden benches. The simplicity of the Waroeng Tugu is where it's so beautiful, not only in terms of its ambience, but in the whole experience of feasting with simple dining wares, hand-rolled corn cigarettes just like in the old days, an old ice grinder from the turn of last century, and many more. The dishes here are prepared by Ibu Soelastri, who has cooked at home since she was a small girl, and at Tugu for a number of presidents of Indonesia. The Waroeng Tugu has no menu—instead, Ibu goes to the market, picks the ingredients she likes, and then she makes up to eight different dishes in Waroeng Tugu's traditional open kitchen. In the morning, Iboe Soelastri gives cooking classes here, where she brings her guests with her to the market.
As dusk fell, I was taken to Tugu's deserted sandy beach, guided by a row of torches and red flower petals. A table for two, with flowers and candles atop, sat alone facing the Indian Ocean, with nothing around except for a seafood grill and a champagne stand. No hawkers, no beachwalkers, no other tables, and no noise except for the crashing waves. I was told, "We usually set only one table alone on the beach – but tonight is special, we put these thousands of flower petals because one of our guests will be proposing," say no more.
Walking back to my previously chosen table with a view to the ocean, I was tempted to peak into another dining room that was set up for two other guests. This room, the Bale Puputan, has beautiful 19th century Balinese antiques and artwork, and a beautiful marble table from that period. Celebrating Bali of the 19th century, two special dining experiences are available here – the first one being the Balinese Rajadom dining, and the second one the Grand Rijsttaffel. a special dining created by the plantation masters during the colonial Dutch era, where they entertained guests with dishes using the exotic spices of the country. Bear in mind that the Grand Rijsttaffel dining is served by a parade of 13 waiters wearing traditional costumes, even if you are only a party of two. Noticing my bedazzled expression, I was further explained that the Grand Rijsttaffel was ‘normal'. Their most special dining experience, called the Tugudomis mind blowing. The Tugudom dining experience tells the story of how the royal entourage of the Majapahit Kingdom, including the soldiers, the ox carriages, the elephants, etc, arrived in Bali when they were defeated in Java, where they were warmly welcomed by the Balinese. The dishes presented here are researched to the times of the Majapahit era, and include royal dishes as well as cuisine prepared by the humble villagers to welcome the entourage. The Tugudom theatrical dining can include up to an entourage of 50 people, bringing the whole Majapahit entourage to present time – again, even if you are only a party of two.
Classical Balinese dance can be arranged with any dinner at Tugu. Ibu Cenik, one of the oldest and most flamboyant dancers of Bali, also dances on the beautiful stage upon request or on special schedule.I will say no more, except that dining at Tugu is indeed an experience of a lifetime.
Hotel Tugu Bali, Canggu (+62-361) 731 701
Senin, 17 Agustus 2009
Dine for Sarongbali
Sarong threw open its doors in May 2008 to international fanfare and hasn't showed any sign of slowing down since. Twelve months down the line we took a trip to the kitchens to get down and dirty with the team and discover the multiple complexities that is the mechanics of a kitchen so rich in cultural diversities and culinary techniques. After a hectic evening service it becomes clear that the chaos is orderly, the mayhem organised to an almost military like operation and the personalities behind the plates as fiery as the Asian spices that bind the winning formula of this highly successful restaurant. Sitting down with Will Meryick (ex Longrain, Sofitel and Blossom front man) to dissect the team behind his Sarong venture leads to some unusual findings, from a knife-wielding maniac old timer to the latest addition to the Sarong family from the stable of one Kylie Kwong. Enter, if you dare…
When it came to finding an Indonesian chef for the Sarong kitchen Will didn't have to look much further than the back streets of Legian. "There's a whole undiscovered world in existence back in the kampungs (villages) off Jalan Legian, and that's where I stumbled across Juwita." So the story goes Will met Juwita through his babysitter who used to bring back bungkus (takeaway) from a hidden home kitchen somewhere in Legian. On further investigation it turns out that Ibu Juwita was single-handedly responsible for feeding the best part of the local Legian community. "I literally employed her as my home cook whilst Sarong was being set up, I wanted to learn as much as I could about regional Indonesian cuisine from a chef that wasn't westernised in the slightest, who wasn't confused about how traditional Indonesian dishes should taste." Will reveals that it wasn't easy for Julita to grasp the concept of cooking in a professional kitchen, he ended up giving her a crash course in proper cooking techniques whilst trying to make sense of her 'cut and paste' approach to preparing Indonesian dishes.
"Nothing, and I mean nothing, was prepared the same way twice. It would drive me insane." Juwita brings a Malay inspired taste to the Indonesian cuisine served at Sarong that compliments the fresh local produce used throughout the restaurant. If you've ever complained about Indonesian food being 'too bland' or 'overly spicy' then you have yet to experience the Sumatran style of dining where more fragrant spices such as Cardamom, Cinnamon and Nutmeg compliment the raw flavours of Chilies, Galangal and Turmeric more commonly used in Javanese dishes. Naturally, Juwita is extremely protective over her spice pastes, "God only knows what's in those pastes", Will confides, "I think she's utilising traditional plant roots from Aceh that she's sourcing from the markets in Denpasar, but I know better than to ask." At 47, Juwita is the eldest member of the team and has forged a close working relationship with both Will and the other members of Sarong. Suresh, on the other hand, is a relative newcomer to the Petitenget restaurant. Originally of Indian/Chinese heritage, Suresh was raised in Australia and apprenticed under Kylie Kwong, eventually rising to the position of Junior Sous at Billy Kwong in Sydney. "Not that it makes an ounce of difference to his peers at Sarong", Will chuckles, "They christened him 'Tuan Putri' (princess) on the second day of service."
"It was hard for him at first, the melting pot of cultures and languages at Sarong, the constant hustle and bustle of a confined kitchen area, he was way, way out of his comfort zone. So we threw him in the deep end to see if he was a floater." Evidently Suresh was buoyant enough to float, straight to the top as it happens, as he now at the helm of the restaurant, bringing with him a taste of Indo Malaysian cuisine mixed with strong Chinese influences. "You can expect to find more Chinese dishes on the menu at Sarong in the upcoming months, Suresh is killing it with his San Choy Bow that is going on the menu real soon." Subagio is the second youngest team member in the restaurant and is something of an anomaly in the Bali dining scene. "He's in charge of two departments and specialises in Martabak - the thick savoury or sweet pancakes more commonly peddled by street vendors on the busy roads of Denpasar and Jakarta but originating from India during the 13th Century." Although popular throughout Yemen, Malaysia, Brunei, Singapore and Indonesia, it is rare to find a chef whose primary focus is only on one dish in a restaurant on the scale of Sarong. "I always wanted to cook Martabak", Will concedes, "but the process is unbelievably complex, you simply cant learn it overnight and even after heaps of attempts I decided that it was wiser to simply bring in a professional and leave it to him." Subagio has been with Sarong since the beginning, he couldn't speak a word of English and had no former professional kitchen experience prior to joining the team. "He's still a very non-confrontational individual", Will smiles, "the archetypal Indonesian male, very humble, meek and really easy to get along with - the complete opposite to the blood snarling beast that is Sirsa."
At 43 years of age Nyoman Sirsa is the second oldest on the team and the very proud homegrown Balinese element to the kitchen and most definitely not to be crossed. "This is the guy you really don't want to screw with", Will looks uncomfortable even talking about Sirsa, "I did try, a long time ago, to steer his direction but I've since learnt that a 'Blue Steel' glance from Sirsa means it's time to get out the way." Evidently Sirsa's as cold as they come, a killer in the kitchen that has absolutely no grasp of how to manage the front of house staff. "It's better we just contain him in the kitchen and give him his own mini empire to run, then get the hell out of his way." Will isn't shy to admit that he just lets Sirsa do his own thing and head up the team of Indonesian chefs. "We've had a long relationship since way back when I was at Husk at The Sofitel. He understands the way I think and I respect him for being the glue that binds, he controls the back of house staff, I pay him accordingly."
Which leads us onto the final member of the team, the one person that has stood by Will since his days in Thailand. It's been a seven-year relationship between Will and his second in command Palm. "He's pretty much my right hand man", Will declares proudly, "he's put up with me for so long now that he deserves to be up there running his own restaurant. He's one of the few that can keep up to speed with me." There's clearly a well-developed bond between the pair of them, a mutual respect and understanding that they need one another mutually in order to be successful. Will has done the hard yards at the hotplates over his time and has moved to front of house with a firm understanding of what happens in the kitchen, something that many restaurateurs are lacking in today's age. "Palm runs the show in the kitchen and implements the decisions I make on a managerial level. On a creative level he's the Mr. Whippy of South East Asia – the sticky rice ice cream concoctions he comes up with are just phenomenal." It's clear, as the interview with Will comes to an end that there's plenty of steam left in the Sarong pressure cooker but there's hints at new ventures aplenty in the upcoming months, but Will's tightlipped with the details. "I'm not in the habit of giving much away ahead of time, but I will say that there's so much that can be achieved over here in Bali in terms of pushing regional South East Asian cuisines on many levels, not just in the same way that we took hawker food and translated it to a fine dining environment as with Sarong."
One thing is for sure, with the commitment of such a cosmopolitan team of chefs, a unilateral vision of a forward thinking restaurateur and the global desire for Asian influenced cuisine, Sarong will remain at the cutting edge of the Bali dining scene for some time to come.
Jl Petitenget, T: 0361 737 809, Sarongbali
Selasa, 07 April 2009
Indochine
These restaurants are indeed very scarce and so when the beep of the email inbox heralded the arrival of the opening of Indochine (The Mansion, Sayan, Ubud T: 0361 972 616) and its French influenced Indochinese menu I was up the hill to Ubud in a flash, knife and fork at the ready.
Here, ladies and gentleman, if you will excuse the cliché, is something completely different.
So different in fact that it warrants a good couple of hours researching exactly what Indochine is and more importantly where it is. Historically the entire Southeast Asian region drew cultural inspiration from China and India with the predominant influence stemming from the Indian region. Vietnam (owing to its proximity to China) reverses this theory and is unique in its direct Chinese influence with a smaller degree of input from the Indian contingent. The former colonial French Indochina comprised of Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam whilst the rest of the mainland Southeast Asia is now commonly included in the wider Indochinese definition encompassing the Malay Peninsula, Myanmar (formerly Burma), Thailand and Singapore.
Of course all of this sounds a little distant in the 21st century considering the formation of French Indochina took place in October 1887. The federation lasted for 58 years until the close of the Second World War, by which time the Japanese had seized control of the French Indochina territories and only released their grip when forced to surrender in 1945. What is interesting is that the Japanese had kept the French bureaucracy and leadership throughout their governing of the Second French Indochina Campaign, cuisine and all.
Although Indonesia is not mentioned in any reference to Indochine one cannot deny the influences of Indian and Chinese food on the archipelago. A menu such as that available at Indochine is perfectly in tune with local Balinese produce and tropical climate, with an emphasis on light, spicy and wholly absorbing dishes that remain faithful to original Vietnamese recipes but are presented with a modern day twist.
Executive Chef David Cailleba is no stranger to classical French fine dining having been a long-term fixture in many luxury resorts around the Asia Pacific. His particular culinary expertise is matched perfectly with Vietnamese/Australian restaurateur (now Food and Beverage Director of Indochine) Anna Kellett who has transported the winning Indochine formula to Bali from her successful cooking school of the same name in Sydney.
The fusion of Vietnamese and French cuisine is complimented by the eclectic collection of art and design objects that take pride of place in the spacious and very stately dining room. Blink twice and you might be forgiven for thinking that you'd stumbled onto the set of a tropical remake of 'Gosford Park'.
Vietnamese lacquer paintings adorn the walls whilst a central glass display case houses vintage headdresses originally from members of the Balinese royalty. The dining room opens out onto an al fresco dining area and terrace swimming pool with a neighbouring gazebo tucked away to the right – perfect for a cool summer evening in the hilly climes of Ubud. The soft candlelight and warm, welcoming ambience make the colonial style grand dining room seem almost surreal, a contradiction of itself as the style is very formal but the mood very relaxing. Dress shoes and a collar would not look out of place here.
The wait staff has a nervous energy to them - understandable given the fact that the restaurant has just thrown its doors open - and are a rather rigid service ensemble. I'm frightened that their demeanour might not bode well when it comes to discretion (they outwardly exhibited every telltale sign of the dreaded 'over service' syndrome) but in reality hovered at the perfect distance from the table, occasionally swooping in with a refill of breads and a top up of water but never demanding your attention in the process. Discretion, thankfully, is definitely part of the vocabulary at Indochine and it is a blessed relief not to have to endure a protracted three-way dinner conversation with your waiter and dining companion.
Now onto the reason we're here in the first place - the food.
The Oeufs de Caille (quail eggs) are the choice from the entrée selection. First boiled then gently fried to give a crispy exterior and served with a drizzled chili sauce, the presentation is point perfect but the portion a little small for a man with a ravenous appetite. I regret not heading in the direction of the French Duck Liver entrée as the accompanying grape and red apple sauce sounded so intriguing and besides, I wanted to see what Vietnamese influence might find it's way onto a very French Foie Gras dish. Equally as tempting is the Tasmanian Salmon with choufleur and Daikon (mild flavoured East Asian giant white radish) served Tataki style. I note these two for further visits and move onto the second entrée and the best dish that is to find its way to our table this evening – the Goi Cuon. The presentation of this dish is deceptive. From the outset it looks very simple, a translucent crepe of rice paper filled with fresh herbs, prawns and chicken and served with a Vietnamese chili sauce, but to taste there is clearly a lot going on behind the scenes.
There are no less than 18 different ingredients in the Goi Cuon that, collectively, manage not to overpower the palate but instead are light, extremely refreshing and would not look at all out of place on a wellness retreat menu. The invigorating and lively flavours are typical of Vietnamese cuisine and are carried over to the main course – the Pan Seared South Sea Snapper.
I'm not the biggest fan of a risotto at the best of times, it's a dish that should, by rights, be easy to knock out on demand, a hundred portions at a time yet almost every risotto I've had in Bali has been butchered mercilessly by chefs who do not take the time to nurture the cooking process correctly and inevitably cook the life out of the rice and/or end up using inferior ingredients in the stock resulting in what could be best described as a savoury rice pudding.No such worries with the main course tonight, the risotto is ever so slightly well cooked but is saved by the stunningly clear preserved lemon and basil stock which relieves the Arborio grains of their heaviness and elevates the dish back into the realms of 'light and bright' Vietnam. The seared snapper was never going to be a miraculous discovery but is happy to occupy the same plate as the sweet pea sauce, is prepared well and best of all it's complimented perfectly by the risotto.
Other main courses on the menu include a nod towards the Bebek Betutu (traditional Balinese slow roasted spiced duck) with the Divine Mansion Duck (the jury is still out on just how a duck achieves divinity) and the Bo Kho (slow cooked beef in Vietnamese spices) both dishes served with fragrant turmeric infused yellow rice. Dessert is a hit and miss affair; the imported chocolate in the Gateau au Chocolat à la Mansion (the name's a mouthful) is most certainly not Valhorna and it should be at this standard of dining.
With a little more focus in the dessert department Indochine will be a very worthy addition to Ubud's upper echelons of dining but in truth it's pretty much already there. It's hard to be too critical of a few cocoa beans gone astray when you look at the prices being charged. Indochine could so easily have fallen into the overpricing trap that many of its peers haplessly indulge in but most courses hesitate to topple the twenty US$ mark and a meal for two including a small but cost conscious wine selection (predominantly new world offerings from Australia and Chile) won't exceed a hundred dollars. As our host admits "we wanted to have a fine dining ambience without implying ridiculously high prices on guests".
And for that rationale alone Indochine has our vote. The cuisine on offer makes it a dining destination in its own very original right.
Indochine is open from 6pm daily.
Jazz Cafe Ubud
Located on the verdant slopes of South Central Bali, Ubud is well known as the island's historical center for music and art. A place where cultural tourism thrives and where many go to escape the hectic streets of Seminyak and Kuta; from traditional gamelan orchestras to cozy bars and their lounge soundtracks, music is a popular aspect of Ubud. And located on Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, is a live music venue that is dedicated to a special musical niche. Well known to both residents and tourists alike since its inception 10 years ago, the Jazz Café is an Ubud favorite that presents live Jazz (and it's many derivatives) 5 nights a week in a very relaxed and loungy atmosphere.
Jazz Café, "The Original Jazz Venue," is the brainchild of 44 year-old Balinese owner and musician, Agung Wiryawan, who opened the popular spot with purely personal intentions. Not ones motivated by profit, but just for the music and to have space where he and his friends could jam acoustically to their hearts content. Certainly what one might expect from a music-loving musician who grew up in a family of traditional Balinese players and dancers. Self-taught, but unable to read music, Agung learned to play guitar by emulating the likes of his six-string American folk idols, Bob Dylan and Neil Young, by listening to their cassette recordings passed down from his brother. Honing his skills throughout the early 90's in towns from Candidasa to Sanur, he had to take a break after an accident severed his tendons and while heartbroken and frustrated, he learned open tuning slide guitar techniques that saved his sanity. And then in December 1996, he opened Jazz Café and virtually through simple word of mouth, the venue has enjoyed enormous popularity since day one.
The flyer for Jazz Café is a simple black and white design that advertises "unique cuisine, creative cocktails, great music" with a list of famous Jazz artists' names listed on faded grey backdrop. Herbie Hancock, Thelonius Monk, Nina Simone, Charlie Parker, Duke Ellington, Benny Goodman, and scores of others. And the concept of Jazz Café is as simple as the flyer itself. Live jazz presented in a classy, yet relaxed, environment for the enjoyment of locals, ex-pats, and tourists alike, and also while providing excellent original cuisine choices worthy of a proper supper club, exotic cocktails, and wines from every major region.
The food at Jazz Café is primarily Asian with a generous selection of starters, mains, pizza, pasta and desserts that range reasonably from Rp. 22,000 to 73,000. Begin with a first course of Balinese Tuna Fish Salad or Crisp Tofu Tempura with Roasted Peanut Soy Dressing. And then for a main course, choose from sumptuous options such as Seared Tuna Teriyaki, Coconut Coated Chicken Breast with Yellow Curry, or Thai Crispy Vegetable Stir Fry with Toasted Cashews and Shitake Mushrooms. Finish up the meal with homemade desserts that range from Wicked Chocolate Truffle Cake with Coconut Cream to Ginger and Orange Crème Brulee. If only stopping by for drinks and a show, Jazz Café's cocktails are as adventurous as their music concepts and with names that share the theme: The Blues Colada, Mango Dixie, Java Jive, Swell Ella, or Cool Louis. Their signature drink, however, is the lethal Mega-Margarita, which comes in several varieties and served in very large glasses.
Jazz Café's design is quite perfectly conducive to lounging and listening. The main room consists of a traditionally shaped Balinese alang-alang roof that is set a bit lower so as to provide a more ambient feel. The small stage is opposite the bar and has numerous table settings that face it a la traditional Jazz bar arrangement. Past the main floor is an elevated area where black and white upholstered cushions surround 4 low tables with an unobstructed view of the stage. And then beyond the room is an outdoor area that consists of a lush garden with elevated bale areas and more low tables and cushions. On any given weekend night, the entire seating areas full and those unfortunate to be without a reservation are forced to enjoy from their bar seats, or even stand as has often been the case.
Musicians from such disparate countries as America, Denmark, and Japan have all stopped by Jazz Café to perform or engage in a jam session, but regularly scheduled bands are presented from Tuesday through Saturday from 8 – 10:30 pm (bar remains open late after performances). Tuesdays feature the soprano saxophone talents of Joe Rosenburg (USA); Wednesdays are controlled by the "Buena Terra" band and their Latin vibe; Thursdays presents the jazzy "For Free Band;" Fridays are for the acoustic Latin sounds of "Compass;" and Saturdays highlight the talents of owner, Agung's own band, "Bali Blues Band" and their popular repertoire of original and cover numbers. And by June 2006, Jazz Café will also be featuring monthly special band events. Even on Sundays, Mondays, and before and after the featured band, the quality music selection doesn't quit. Customers can always hear Django Reinhardt's guitar work, Billie Holiday's sultry crooning, George Benson's slick scat, or Miles Davis' Be-Bop via the handpicked compilations that Agung puts together for the venue's hi-fi.
Whether a fusion, blues, swing, Latin, or classic fan of the genre, Jazz Café offers a very unique and enjoyable experience where one can dine, lounge, and listen to great music in a relaxed atmosphere while enjoying the aesthetic and cultural delights that Ubud has to offer.
Jazz Café also offers a free pick up service from hotels around Ubud
Jazz Café
Jl. Sukma 2 Tebesya, Ubud – Bali
TEL: (0361) 976 594
jazzcafe@telkom.net
Comprised of 4 levels and situated on a lush ravine overlooking the sacred Campuan River in Ubud, Murni's Warung is an institution that has been serving the best in traditional Balinese cuisine for over 3 decades. Besides its food, décor, and locale, the warung is also well known for its proprietor, Ni Wayan Murni, a matronly Ubud local whose congeniality is known to all who have walked through the hand-carved doors of her restaurant over the years. From the time she sold a sarong to Mick Jagger in 60's Sanur to her current involvement with the Royal Pitamaha Gamelan in which she is a member, Ibu Murni's life is a fascinating one. She took time out from her busy Warung duties to speak to Hello Bali about the good old days.
Ubud Origins
I am an Ubud original. I was born in Penestanan, about 5 minutes walk from [Murni's Warung] and was raised in Campuan. My grandparents are from about 100 meters from [Murni's Warung] and I've lived here all my life. Ubud at the time was, of course, very different, very rural. There was no expansion bridge across the river, all the roads were made of dirt, and there was no electricity. Most Balinese from this area at the time, including my family, were very, very poor and didn't have much to eat. Around 1952 or 53, when I was 6, I remember going to the river to collect rocks to sell on the road. We used to have to carry water in terra cotta pots from the big spring just below where my grandmother lived because there was no plumbing then. Most of my family worked from this river, gathering what ever they could from rocks to sand and selling it on the road. Or they would work in the rice paddies where they would work during the harvest season that was only every 6 months and not like today where there are sometimes 3 harvests a year. I would also go to the rice paddies to help my family- my grandparent's, my father, to harvest the rice and afterwards we would sometimes catch rice paddy eels or snails to eat. All this work would keep us busy for about 2 months at a time. At other times I would go to the old Ubud market with my mother to sell different types of leaves, vegetables, rice, or anything else that was used or eaten everyday.
The Warung
In 1974, I started Murni's Warung and it was one of the very first restaurants in Ubud. There was no running water or electricity. We used oil lamps for light and cooking kerosene for the burners. There were still very, very few tourists in Ubud at the time and they usually stayed at the Campuan Hotel, which was one of the first hotels in Ubud. At the time, I wasn't really planning on opening a restaurant. My husband and I used to go to a warung near the center of Ubud where they cooked food with kerosene burners. That's when I decided to open a warung in this area because it took so long to walk to central Ubud to get some food and was very inconvenient. So then I started to sell some very Balinese dishes at our warung. We only had one bamboo table and two chairs at the time, but people started to come and within one month I had expanded to 4 tables! There were many interesting things that passed in front of the warung that made it quite an attraction. People going to the rice paddies, ducks that crossed at 5 a.m. every morning and then cross again in the afternoon on their way back home, cows, pigs, people going to or returning from the market carrying [produce] on their heads. The tourists would come to my warung and just sit in front and watch the procession of happenings. It was like dinner and a show! We also had our regular customers who lived in the area and tourists, who if they stayed for only one week, would come to the warung once a day.
At that time, I only knew about Indonesian and Balinese food. I would go shopping at the market everyday because there was no refrigeration except for an icebox and I would do all the cooking myself, as well. Every month we would have more and more tourists coming and started to have more tables and chairs for the warung. In the 80's we had our first big expansion during this good time when many tourists were coming after the new bridge was built and buses started arriving.
Most of the food we serve is very traditional Balinese cuisine. Smoked duck and smoked chicken, for example. I also created a dish called "Murni's Fish" which is sautéed Tengiri served with vegetables and a special sauce that won an award in a Nusa Dua school in the 80's. This is still quite popular and is always on the menu. I also cook a few Western dishes whose family recipes were given to me by friends. We serve Indonesian and Balinese desserts as well, such as Black Rice Pudding that we make fresh from scratch everyday. I also have a shop here that I was running over 30 years ago, even before the warung, where we sell jewelry and antique and new textiles. And I have started a small beautiful villa called Villa Kunang-Kunang (Fireflies) that is in Ponggang, Ubud, about 12 km north of Campuan.
Tradition and Changes
Even until today, I would say that our cultural life in Ubud is still very strong and everyone here, including myself, is very involved with the community. But after the year 2000, I would say that Ubud really changed in terms of development. There were more buildings, more shops, more restaurants, more hotels, the roads are very busy and there is much more traffic here. I think that during the past few years, it has gotten out of control and I am hoping that we stop and really think about it so we don't overbuild. It is not easy and I hope that the local government will maintain the traditional ways of building in Ubud. That is why I keep [Murni's Warung] like it was in the old days. This is a difficult task these days, but I try to preserve these traditional methods with the workers and the way we cook here. For example, instead of using a blender or food processor, we use a mortar and pestle to prepare ingredients. This takes more time, but I prefer using this traditional Balinese way of cooking because I believe the food tastes better this way. It is also the reason we use more people to work here. I think it's very important to give people jobs. Two of the staff have been working with the restaurant since we opened for business! At the time they were about 9 years old and now they have grandchildren. They are like family. And a few of the original regular guests that I've known for 35 or 40 years still come here even though some are in their 80's.
Within the family and the community of Ubud, we really try to retain the traditional ways of living. Like my grandchildren, for example, I try and show them how we care and how we are involved in what we do in the community. A member of the Ubud royal family passed away recently and all the members of this community really helped each other [for the ceremony]. We are very much tied together here and spend more than 30% of our time doing things for the people of Ubud, supporting each other and trying to make all the generations understand and stay strong. For the 32 years that Murni's Warung has been open, we have always had strong ties here.
Murni's Warung
Campuan – Ubud – Bali
Phone: (0361) 975 233
Email : murni@murnis.com
www.murnis.com
Bali Sexy Sushi at Fresh Restaurant
Fresh presents a stylish, open-sided lounge with a chocolate and cream theme, a central bar, cushioned banquettes, and an al fresco timber deck girded by foxtails and shaded by a sail-like canopy. Services include free WiFi, while the cuisine blends healthy Japanese traditions with some unexpected ingredients. "The concept," says Upong, the Balinese manager, owner and chef, "is to offer the best quality and taste at the best price."
The menu is divided into six categories: cones & rolls, hot delights, mini delights, noodles, sashimi & sushi, and combos, with some chef's recommendations thrown in along the way. We started with some mini delights designed to whet the appetite. These yummies included the healthy and moreish 'edamame' – steamed, salted, in-the-pod soya beans, which can be a great precursor to a meal, or a simple accompaniment to an Asahi Beer. Next up was the 'vege prawn sauna' of steamed vegetables and prawn mixed with soyu butter dressing, and we particularly liked the 'black calamari' – rings of baby squid stuffed with spicy butterfish and doused in a sweet soy and oyster dressing. The 'miso soup' was also a good choice, an authentic thin broth enhanced with seaweed and tofu, and we enjoyed the 'baby burger', comprised of mixed patties of beef and tuna served with veggies. Moving on to the hot delights, our favourite dish of all proved to be the prawn or vegetarian dumplings known as 'gyosa', steamed and then grilled to perfection before being served with sesame sauce.
We were in danger of overstuffing ourselves on the mini and hot delights, so we switched to a platter of sushi, comprised of colourful and exquisitely presented 'maguro' (tuna), 'syake' (salmon), and 'gindara' (butterfish). Each variety of fish was notable for its individual and unique texture and taste – sometimes delicate, sometimes rich – and was served with dollops of wasabi for that unique nasal sensation. Finally, it was time to introduce the exotic blends and alternative ingredients of Fresh's famous fusion rolls. The 'hot foie gras' wrapped around a strip of fresh mango topped with hazelnut was an absolute winner, and 'Mr Labalaba' was also delicious, consisting of soft shell crab tempura with avocado, crowned with cooked freshwater eel. Each trim roll was an ornamental art form, pleasing to the eye as well as to the palate, and the taste proved to be even better than the beautiful designer names!
Looking for some sexy sushi? Check out Fresh (Jl Laksmana, Oberoi T: 0361 736 834).
