Wonderful of Denpasar

It may not be a camera-lens friendly place, but don’t be fooled, Bali’s capital city has its perks; you just have to know where to look. From a museum of Bali’s history, to hidden culinary and coffee treasures, and an eclectic shopping haven, we go deep city diving to discover Denpasar.

1 four-faced beauty at puputan square
The famous Patung Catur Mukha (which literally translates into ‘the Statue with Four Faces’) is located right smack dab in the middle of Puputan Square and is an image of the God of the Four Directions.

Puputan is a ritual akin to the Japanese hara-kiri (what better way to die than with honour and in your own hands, eh?) and this ritual took place in 1906 when the Dutch seized control of the land and the great King of Badung ordered a mass suicide as their art of war. The fallen heroes of this honourable affair are standing in stone at the Puputan Square.

Try not to visualise this gruesome yet historic event and consider Puputan Square as the key point of orientation of the whole city, meaning that if you ever get lost wandering the streets of Denpasar, this is the spot you should get back to as it is located on the city’s main street, and everyone in Denpasar will know the way to get back here.

There is also an occasional Gong Kebyar Parade that takes place in this square, so be on the lookout for that. (Jalan Gajah Mada)

2 the historical story of bali
You can probably tell from the melting pot of sensations when you first step foot on the island that Bali’s history is an intricate, interesting and tumultuous one.

To experience a rush of time travel and witness the development of Balinese culture and how it became what it is now, visit the Bali Museum in Denpasar.
The museum was built in 1931 by architect P.J. Moojen and is located near to the former Denpasar palace that was burnt down to the ground by Dutch invaders during the turmoil that took place in 1906.

This museum showcases art and historical artefacts that weave the tale of the Island of the Gods, and the building is divided into four sections which displays a different array of Balinese relics: the Tabanan section stores masks and musical instruments used in theatrical performances, Karangasem displays sculptures and paintings, the Buleleng area showcases textiles and last but definitely not least, the Timur section holds a collection of archaeological finds.
(Jalan Mayor Wisnu, open 8.00 am until 3.00 pm daily, closed on Saturdays)

3 shopping paradise
The word ‘Denpasar’ literally means ‘by the market’ so it’s no surprise that one of the most pulsing markets in Bali resides in the island’s capital. Pasar Badung is thrift-shopping heaven, filled with quirks and perks in a 5-storey establishment, open 24 hours, for the avid market-delver.

Even though Pasar Badung is the main pasar in the area, the whole of Denpasar is basically a place of trade (this is, again, where the name of the city originated), so you’ll find heaps of markets and shops, big and small, obvious and obscure, vibrant and listless, lining the streets of Denpasar.

To purchase textiles and Balinese batik by the meter, head over to the Kampung Arab on Jalan Sulawesi, and also go to Jalan Kedondong to find unique shops selling nothing else but unique things (we randomly stumbled upon a custom traditional drum-maker on this street, so try your luck in this area).
If you have no time for a market spree, Pasar Badung itself is enough to quench your thirst for transaction, guaranteed, or check out the adjacent pasar called Pasar Kumbasari which also sells an array of curios.
(Pasar Badung, Jalan Gajah Mada)

4 artistic endeavours
The Bali Werdhi Budaya Art Center spans over 5 hectares of land and was designed by Ida Bagus Tugur, a prominent Balinese architect who also designed the National Art Gallery in Jakarta.

This vast arts centre is the largest cultural centre to have been built until now, and it is just that: a huge centre of cultural expression, starting from performances to paintings to sculptures and anything that can be qualified as cultural art. The main attraction is an open-air amphitheatre, the Ardha Chandra, which occasionally hosts theatrical performances and dances, complete with towering temple gates, impressively breathtaking full-moon effects and a 600-people seating capacity.

In this complex, the Dewi Ratih Building, used during The Bali Art Festival, displays architectural aesthetics and various exhibitions, mostly photographic. There is also an indoor theatre called the Ksirarnawa which seats 800 people. We could go on and on about this arts complex, but with art, you’ll have to see it to believe it.
(Jalan Nusa Indah, visiting hours 8am to 5pm, Tuesday to Sunday)

5 a steaming cup o’ Joe
Coffee culture has lost its sentimental value since the simultaneous appearance of all these generic coffee shop franchises (you know which we’re talking about), but fear not, coffee lovers! In the heart of Denpasar lies an authentic coffee shop, established by the Tjahjadi family since 1935, which was originally called Bian Ek. They changed their name to BHINEKA JAYA KOPI BALI and their coffee has been exported to international markets due to their high-quality and unique flavours. They’ve even coined the term ‘The Coffee Legend’ in Bali for their taste.

Now, the originally quaint coffee shop has grown into a well-known bean-brew parlour, and provides brews from Toraja, Mandailing, Java, Kenya, Italy and Columbia.
(Jalan Gajah Mada 80, T: 0361 720 589)

6 the enchanting palace
Bali is divided into areas, and each area harbours its own King. Puri Satria is the palace of the King of Denpasar and it’s open for public exhibition. This palace was re-built in 1930 and every 210 days, an anniversary celebration is held at the royal grounds. At Puri Satria, there is an open-air pendopo that was used as a meeting spot for all the Kings of Bali back in its heyday.

If you want to actually sleep like royalty, you can go to Pemecutan Palace, built in the 17th century and managed by the last King of Denpasar, Ida Cokorda Pemecutan, where guests can stay and pretend to be royalty, even if it’s only for one night.
(Puri Satria, Jalan Veteran; Pemecutan Palace, Jalan Thamrin 2)

7 temple of divine deities
Bali and temples seem to be two inseparable things, because spirituality is a major influence in Balinese culture. Located in Denpasar, the Jagatnatha Temple is a sight that’ll enlighten your senses.

Deriving its name from the Sanskrit word ‘jagat’, meaning world, this temple is devoted to Sanghyang Widhi Wasa, exclaimed to be the supreme at divine gatherings. The shrine of Pura Jagatnatha is perched on a turtle, signifying one of the divine forms of the Hindu god Vishnu, and an air of grandiose can be felt in the atmosphere surrounding this temple.

Each month, on every full moon and new moon, a celebration is held on temple grounds. Make sure to visit during the festivities and you’ll definitely come home with a spiritual, if not memorable, experience.
(Jalan Mayor Wisnu)