Lost in Time - Candi Dasa

from a pristine white sand beach to a secluded - and not to mention genuinely untouched - village, candidasa holds many a charm that can truly complement the area’s claim as “old bali”

Ireside in the island’s cesspit of modern tourism, sunburned bodies and capitalism, in the area also known as Kuta (yes, exactly), so when I was offered a chance to explore a patch of the island that is dubbed as “old Bali” by many, I jumped to the occasion and packed my bags in a record-breaking five minutes.

Candidasa, previously known as Teluk Kehen (which translates as Bay of Fire), is located on the north-eastern coast of Bali, and even though it’s the most modernised section of the area, it’s still relatively untouched and a pleasant getaway from the depraving kitsch of the 21st century.

First on my list was a trip to Virgin Beach (Desa Perasi), aptly named and purely unspoiled. Think white sand and azure waters, in its absolute epitome. Of course, untouched doesn’t necessarily mean completely secluded and devoid of hawker food stalls and lounging chairs, but these circumstances aren’t obnoxiously in-your-face, and are more of a useful factor rather than a nuisance. The waves are gentle (even for you grommets) and the beach is complete soft sand merged with coral where the water starts and land ends. A perfect spot to simply lie back and let time drift by unnoticed.

To further press my objective of escaping contemporary chaos, I headed to Desa Tenganan, a village established before the first millennium, where modernism only exists in the form of “Dora the Explorer” knock-off T-shirts on some of the children and the occasional motorbike parked to the side of the enclosed village.

Somewhat reminiscent of M Night Shyamalan’s “The Village”, this particular village is a self-sourcing, independent community, complete with its own government, traditions, crop field and cattle (in abundance, might I add), and bendesa (Balinese for village leader).

That’s not to say that no outside influence whatsoever has infiltrated the settlement, but those who have married outside the “tribe” are considered cast-offs and aren’t included in the coordinated distribution of basic needs such as rice and housing. Up to date, there are 28 “purebred” families left from the total of 250 families living inside the small town.

Another unique distinction in Tenganan Village is the double ikat (handwoven cloth) that take more than three years to produce, for each one-and-a-half metre long fabric. This is because the thread is handmade from organic cotton harvested from their own village (where else?) and tinted with all natural dyes made from turmeric, indigo juice and other seeds. The creation process itself takes approximately three to four weeks.

The making of these weavings are considered sacred, as are the weavings themselves, and each symbol on the fabric has a meaning. The most recurrent symbol is the scorpion, which signifies power, invincibility and self-control. Also, the symbols of the square cross, representing balance of the soul.

Another historical must-see while in the Candidasa area is Tirtagangga Water Palace (www.tirtagangga.nl), a majestic complex built in 1946 composed of flowing streams, lush greenery and elegant sculptures, which might remind you of a Hindu version of the beautiful fountains at Versailles or Babylon.

Owned by the Royal Family of Karangasem, this palace is located in the midst of a paddy field and gets its water from the natural Rejasa springs. The water from the springs at Tirtagangga is considered to be holy and is collected for ceremonies at nearby temples. The name Tirtagangga, itself, is derived from root words tirta (blessed water) and the Ganges River, considered to be a holy body of water in India.

From the rustic core of an ancient civilization to a lush water palace, I then proceeded to Alila Manggis Resorts (Buitan, Karangasem; T: 0363 41011, www.alilahotels.com/manggis), a very contrasting atmosphere to say the least. I was scheduled to attend the Alila Manggis Seafood Cooking School, which took place right by the beach at the resort, in the garden. Sweet.

I was guided by cooking guru Penny Williams, the executive chef at Alila Manggis, and (surprisingly) successfully created a six-course Balinese meal consisting of sate ikan lilit (fish satay on lemongrass skewers), cumi cumi isi bumbu Bali (braised squid filled with chopped prawn), pepes Ikan (fish wrapped in banana leaf), kare ikan dan udang (fish and prawn curry), lawar don tabie bun (Bali long pepper leaf salad with grated coconut and prawns), ending with a sweet dessert called dadar (rolled pancakes filled with fresh coconut and palm sugar).

The cooking process started after Penny thoroughly explained each ingredient to me, encouraging me to taste, touch and smell everything from turmeric, to shrimp paste, to lemongrass and many more.

The cooking school program usually begins with a fishing trip in the waters surrounding the resort, teeming with marine life, and where guests cook what they catch (although there is a back up fish supply at Alila if you’re unlucky in snatching a competent fish to cook).

Having never cooked before, I was pessimistic about the outcome, but having all the ingredients measured out beforehand by a sous chef and having Penny take me through the very hands-on cooking steps proved to be extremely useful; afterwards, I was awarded with a copy of the recipes, an Alila Cooking School apron, very satisfied tastebuds, and a knowledge of food and spices that I hope to master one day.

For a more laid-back foodie paradise, and one where you need not get down and dirty in the kitchen beforehand, try out the Candidasa Nightmarket and
have grilled corn on the cob smeared with a spicy Balinese concoction right in front of the beach, or head over to Vincent’s (Jl. Raya Candidasa; www.vincentsbali.com) for a hearty meal and cool cocktails accompanied
by jazzy tunes. I recommend ordering the green mussels (Rp. 45,000) with a side of their signature cocktail called the White Lion (Rp. 65,000), topped off with Vincent’s cake (Rp. 45,000), which is basically layers of different textured chocolates stacked on one plate; need I say more?

From spiritual enlightenment to natural wonders to culinary finesse, Candidasa obviously has heaps to offer. I just hope its “old Bali” image stays old and its pristine beaches stay pristine and time remains lost in its crystal clear waters and antediluvian culture.