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from breathtaking landscapes to untouched villages full of hospitable people, flores is indubitably a genuine gem. moreover, organising a trip to this eastern part of the archipelago has become much easier in the last couple of years. it’s time to make the best use of this island before it becomes too popular for magic
My tumultuous romance with Indonesia began in 2002 – three days after the horrendously destructive first Bali Bomb – when I worked as a volunteer at one of the six orphanages near Maumere in East Flores. Arriving at the diverse isle – it had been over three years since my last visit – I realised that it still has an enchanting power over me, rousing the feeling of coming home after a long period of absence.
The large number of languages and dialects spoken across the island, its intricate history, mountainous savannah, and grassland scenery are just a few of the magical characteristics of Flores. Combined with an inherent uniqueness and magnetism, the island is still a somewhat overlooked Indonesian treasure. Its location within the legendary Ring of Fire – down the long string of Lesser Sunda Islands – ignites earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. Although the possibility of such disastrous infrequencies might sound alarming to some voyagers, the peril is the very reason behind Flores’ impressive topography. A total of 129 volcanoes – 13 per cent of the world’s volcanic mountains – are spread over more than 2500 Indonesian islands, giving rise to natural wonders such as century-old fossils, crater lakes and remarkable geological formations.
The plants and animals in Indonesia’s western regions resemble those of mainland Asia, whereas the archipelago’s eastern fauna and flora is similar to that of Oceania. Endemic species such as the one-horned rhinoceros, Flores’ giant rat, the komodo dragon, unusual coral groups, marine mammals, and the now extinct dwarf elephants, help spark off Indonesia’s pride and mostly exist – or existed – in the archipelago’s central islands.
Perhaps the most bizarre discovery of a species was the 2004 unearthing of hobbit fossils. Javanese and Australian archaeologists from the National Archaeological Research Centre and University of New England dug up the remains of a tiny male and female human being said to have lived 13.000 and 18.000 years ago. Not surprisingly, the finding of these relics – named the Homo Floresiensis – changed the face of science and has tinkered with deep-rooted theories of modern man’s descendants. Many museums on the island explicate dwarfism and display skeletons and modern constructions of the peculiar phenomenon.
Organising a trip to Flores has become much easier in the last couple of years. Flights from Bali to the island’s two airports – one in western Labuan Bajo and the other in Maumere in the east – are scheduled daily and treat travellers to dramatic air views of the nearby rising and falling islands. If time is not an issue, and if your budget doesn’t allow the rather pricy airfare, cheap boat trips are available from major cities such as Surabaya in Java and Kupang in East Timor.
Whether you intend to pass through Flores as part of a backpacking spree from another Indonesian island or neighbouring Asian country, or you’ve chosen Flores for a relaxing or action-filled vacation, there are plenty of travel options. Merpati and Pelita Air are recommended airlines when journeying from Bali.
One of the Merpati aircrafts flew me to Maumere, Flores’ largest town and one of the two entrance ports to the island; Labuan Bajo being the second. A wave of melancholic emotions stirred up my insides during the flight towards the island that so intensely changed my life. I was remembering my first visit from faraway Belgium, when I was a fresh out of school twenty-year-old and, frankly, knew nothing of the world; let alone of its easternmost part. Courageous and adventurous as I was at that age, I jumped at the chance of travelling to appealing Indonesia and lend a good-doer hand where needed for six months.
I had specialised in working with children and adults with mental and physical disabilities. Acquaintances of some chums of mine had travelled around the Maumere area in Flores and visited a handful of orphanages. They thought it would be a good learning experience for me to go and soak myself in a waterless pool of poverty and sickness. I agreed. We were all right.
At the small airport in Maumere I was met by Mama Belgi – the Mother Theresa of East Flores – who has remained a close friend of mine since 2002. The now 74-year-old humanitarian was as vigorous as I recalled her to be and hugged me with the strength of a young man. She grabbed a hold of my hand and pulled me towards the car waiting for us in the car park. Marie Jeanne Colson certainly lays claim to many qualities, but no one could ever accuse her of being sluggish or low-spirited.
As if I had never left, the inspiring woman started filling me in on the current situation at the six orphanages – and one dormitory for girls – which she has set up over thirty years ago. Apart from some dangerous floods and the poor health of some of the carers, not much has changed. Families are still struggling painstakingly with illnesses – due to the high living cost on the island and the many disabilities that require expensive treatments – while striving to provide for their children and relatives. Some households are less successful than others and are forced to knock on the door of one of Mama Belgi’s orphanages, desperate to feed their children and to get familiarised with proper therapies for their hindered lives.
Apart from being tormented by heart-wrenching destitution and often incurable sicknesses, the Florinese are some of the happiest and most joyful people I have ever come across. The cheerful reggae-like local music – so typical to island life – is heard along the streets, in public buses and from the folks’ basic houses. The instinctive emotional power and energy they call upon to deal with life and what it throws at them is nothing less than admirable. Their dark chocolate faces are lit up, as if it were a divine gift, by pearly white smiles and deep brown eyes coated with the light of purity. I don’t want to come across as bias, so I highly recommend you embark on a Flores expedition of your own. You might very well be the next in line to fall madly in love with the island and its easy-going residents.
Accommodation is not as plentiful as it is in, for example, Bali and Lombok, but there are some decent hotels in the area. I felt very comfortable staying at a lovely beachfront residence called Gading Beach Hotel – some 20 minutes from the airport – in the colourful town of Nangahure. The property is owned by a Florinese family man, Pak Robi, with whom I enjoyed vivid conversations about upgrading the pretty bungalows and further developing his hotel. By the end of this year, the 15 air-conditioned bungalows are to be united by seven two-storey villas with private kitchen and all other amenities that we, luxury-craving westerners, pine for. Prices are very reasonable ranging from Rp. 90,000 for a room with fan, Rp. 150,000 with AC and Rp. 250,000 for the yet-to-be-completed villas.
The service at Gading Beach Hotel is rather slow and it might be a good idea to order your food about an hour before you want to eat, but who would really mind the wait when surrounded by such magnificent sea view and mountainous greenery? I lay in a hammock overlooking the shimmering Indian Ocean and wondered about how many swimming creatures there are yet to be discovered. I sipped my fresh guava juice and grinned. Island life… Who can withstand the sense of freedom it brings about?
The management team at Gading Beach Hotel has come to master the skill of helping guests discover the island. Affordable tours – by car, on foot or by boat – are scheduled upon request and motorbikes are for rent. Whether you wish to go on an exploratory trip by yourself or in the company of the hotel’s knowledgeable driver, words of advice and must-see locations are suggested free of charge. Maumere is gushing with historic entities, is famed for its ikat (a type of hand-woven textile) clothing and sarongs, excellent diving and snorkelling, and Portuguese heritage. The city is also a great starting point for treks to other remarkable towns and villages.
For me, this trip to Maumere was one of rediscovery and reconnection with the people that have taught me life lessons many of us are yet to learn. For newcomers to the island, there is an extraordinary world to explore; from breathtaking landscapes and multicoloured lakes to traditional villages inhabited by the bravest and most hospitable of people. It truly is a wonder.
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