High Living in Lombok Part 2

Horizontal

Still standing tall (betraying its rather relaxed namesake) is downtown Trawangan's only real upmarket bar-come-club come-restaurant still going strong with the more 'well-heeled' visitors to the island.

The menu carries the usual favourites but does an exceptionally mean steak and if you're lucky the odd Sunday roast might hover into view.

The menu rotates once a week to accommodate a variety of cuisines from around the world from Indonesia to Thailand and so on but the real reason you're likely to visit Horizontal are for the wild parties that kick off on almost a nightly basis.

Expect to see a bevy of tanned European beauties table dancing til dawn with the music policy a straight-up house/garage vibe.

It's all good fun until the morning after where you'll most likely bump into some of the culprits from the previous night's activities and be on the potently spicy bloody marys in no time.

Wikipedia says it best, 'it's the only place in the Gilis that wouldn't look out of place in Seminyak.' And who are we to argue?

Scallywags

Tapas is really proving itself popular of late both on Bali and now on Trawangan where one can tuck into olives, calamari, sardines and all manner of marinated goodness to the north and south of the island.

If you're not in the north of the island around the Karma Kayak restaurant then head south to the brand spanking new Scallywags restaurant to indulge in chef Asier's classic combinations of Mediterranean fare.

Asier was the man behind the original La Sal plan in Bali so you can bet that the menu at Scallywags will be top notch, and it is.

We sat down to a late dinner after a couple of cocktails at the bar and got stuck straight into an excellent selection of Tapas dishes before moving onto a healthy serving of pork chops and spicy apple blue cheese before sampling the lightly pan-seared fillet of coral trout and chorizo puffs with aoili and sesame seeds.

A very relaxing environment with proper comfy chairs, great drinks, a fresh Spanish-inspired menu at discreet prices and not a scally in sight. Also open for light lunches.

Below the Surface...
Castaway... Gili meno shack 58

No matter how far you run from the party scene on Gili Trawangan there's no escaping the crowds during the peak holiday months. After a couple of days of non-stop hell raising the need to totally detach from society and go Robinson Crusoe may take grip. Look up from the beach in Trawangan and over the channel and there lies a whole different island almost completely undisturbed by tourism, Gili Meno. Stock up on essentials (beer - check, suntan lotion - check, company - optional) and island hop for 5 minutes to Meno and the harmonious lodging of Shack 58 villa.

Rustic is a word that springs to mind as you troop through tiny villages in the pony trap. There are only a handful of buildings taller than one storey, hardly any bars or restaurants (except down by the harbour area) and no distractions apart from the sound of nature permeating the clip-clop of the pony's hooves.

Shack 58 occupies the beach to the north east of Meno. It's simple but tastefully furnished with two bedrooms, one facing out towards the ocean so you can sleep to the sound of the surf only yards away.

Two outdoor bathrooms, a well-equipped kitchen (the barbequed seafood here is some of the best I've encountered in Indonesia), no television and excellent service from the shack boys make this a very firm favourite when you really need to escape from the world in general.

Get up early in the morning for a sunrise over Mt. Rinjani then go back to bed, beachcomb or just hang out on the shack decking surveying your own private island beach.

US $45 per night.

Bookings through Island Promotions T: 753 241

There's an abundance of dive schools on Trawangan, Blue Marlin, Manta and Big Bubble being the three most popular with visiting divers. You're guaranteed modern equipment, well-trained local and western dive masters and fantastic ocean adventures regardless of whom you dive with. There are numerous dive locations scattered around the three Gili islands but we wanted something different this trip, we wanted a night dive.

Totally unlike any other experience the night dive disorientates, inspires and rewards those that have no compassion for daylight diving. Dropping in backwards over the side of the boat as the sun sets over Trawangan island and descending the first ten metres as the golden hues of the setting sun illuminate the shadowy waters is a very unique experience. Traversing Meno Wall at night, being swept along with the current, lighting your path with a flashlight and trying to dodge your dive buddies as bright red crustaceans poke their heads out of every nook and cranny is one real kick. Get lucky and you'll spot a Spanish Dancer or two, some napping turtles (don't wake them) and a whole heap of crabs, moray eels and other critters that take to the twilight stage when the ocean lights dim.

Manta Dive

T: (0370) 643 649

Getting there and back...

The now very popular way to get to the islands is with the Mahi-Mahi fast boat, running a daily service direct to Trawangan and leaving from Serangan harbour (20mins from Kuta) at 07.30am (boarding is 30 mins before at 07.00am). Return times are boarding at 10.30 and departure is at 11.00am. Journey time is between 2 and 2 ½ hours, Rp550,000 each way.

Contact Mahi-Mahi, bookings on 081 805 305 632

Island Promotions can also arrange helicopter transfers to either Oberoi Lombok (50 mins $1810) or Kelapa Villas (50 mins $1960) both routes max 4 passengers, both prices include hotel transfer to the airport.

There are regular flights every day (5 or 6 total) from Denpassar to Mataram, with Indonesia Air Transport, Merpati and Trans Nusa. Flight time is only 20 mins. Cost Rp345,000 – Rp385,000. All transport and inclusive airport transfers can be booked through Island Promotions on Poppies Gang One, Kuta.

T: 753 241
E: info@gili-paradise.com
www.gili-paradise.com