Bright Lights Little City

it's interesting how, over the years, distinct subcultures have evolved within each of Bali's main tourist centres. The attractions of the unique areas are surprisingly diverse and are further typified by the different types of foreigners that they entice. Take Kuta, for example. Close to the airport, this once sleepy fishing village was 'discovered' in the 1960s. Years of unplanned development turned it into a jumble of closely-packed pubs, cheap 'n cheerful restaurants, raucous nightclubs, souvenir shops, juice bars, dishonest money changers, beauty parlours, surf emporiums, second-hand bookstores, budget hotels and homestays, attracting backpackers, surfers and friendly fun-loving Aussies

If you're staying in Kuta, you'll need to be appropriately kitted out; so, for streetwear and surfwear, check out Quiksilver (Jl Legian 138, T: 0361 752 693) and Blue Groove (Jl. Legian, T: 0361 752 693). Manufactured in both Australia and Asia, this apparel meets the needs of everyone. The wide range of high quality Australian designed garments is chic, casual, colourful and fun. From T-shirts and Quikjeans to the simplest of accessories, innovation and practicality are woven into casual style. Next door, Surfer Girl (Jl Legian 138, T: 0361 752 693) is much more than just an all girls' surf store. This dedicated outlet is a one-stop shopping destination where young women can purchase the clothing, sandals, accessories, jewellery and perfume that makes it easier for them to convey the personality and spirit behind their active lifestyles. For a classic feminine look, Uluwatu (Jl Legian, T: 0361 751 933) is famous for its exquisite collections of cool, white, handmade lace resortwear and nightwear for women. Styles are timeless and ethnic. Cutwork motifs are feminine and pretty, featuring flowers and butterflies. Garments include long-sleeved blouses with mandarin collars, sleeveless tops, skirts of all lengths, trousers, dresses, linen shift dresses and blouses. Italian connoisseurs of chic Puravida (Jl Kuta Square, T: 0361 736 563) have recently thrown open their doors signalling the arrival of urban cool to Kuta skate and surf central.

Southern Kuta is known as Tuban, a district defined as 'south of Kuta Square. The main road running through Tuban is called Jl Dewi Sartika but is more commonly known as Jl Kartika Plaza. Presided over by the modern, beachfront Discovery Shopping Mall, the atmosphere here is less frantic with a lot of large family-oriented hotels, of which nearly all have direct access to the beach. The area is therefore popular with families, and boasts children's attractions such as Waterbom Park (Jl. Kartika Plaza, T: 0361 755 676), Bali Slingshot and the Kuta Go-Kart circuit. Additionally, there are a plethora of family restaurants, including Starbucks, Stadium Café (Jl. Kartika Plaza, T: 0361 763 100), Krispy Kreme Doughnuts and Bubba Gump Shrimp Company (Jl. Kartika Plaza, T: 0361 754 028).
North of Kuta you will find the neighbourhood of Legian, but these two villages have merged together and the similarities make it hard to distinguish the boundaries. Interestingly, Legian was initially developed as an upmarket alternative to Kuta, and the now-hip-and-vibrant Seminyak was promoted as the peaceful option! For two decades the market stalls of Kuta and Legian have been selling the same old tasteless trash. Red and white Bintang singlets and baseball caps, 'Jiggy-Jig' T-shirts, extra-large bum bags, knitted hats, crocheted water-bottle carriers, rayon sundresses, batik shorts, tasselled sarong mini-skirts, gem-encrusted sandals, sequined thongs and shell necklaces. On the expansive beach, hawkers peddle toe-rings and Rolex watches, ladies in woolly beanies offer "manicure" and "plait your hair". At the entrance to every narrow 'gang' there is a sign proposing 'temporary tattoos', and at every street corner a timeshare tout will present you with a questionnaire followed by the surprise grand prize of a free holiday!

Nevertheless, this chaotic 'centre of tack' has got a certain charismatic charm, and one of the many things that remains special is the availability of choice. There really is something for everyone in Bali and, in Kuta, backpackers and surfers (after all, they were the ones who started the influx of tourism to Bali in the 1970s and 80s - I should know, I was one of them) have not been forgotten.

Accommodation in Bali costs anything between US $5 and US$ 50 per night, and at the cheaper end of the market there is a good selection, especially down in the hub of Kuta, around Poppies Lane II—or in one of the little gangs leading off it, where there are scores of homestays, losmen and cottages. There are also heaps of surfer hangouts and very reasonably priced places to eat. 'Warung 96' for example is always full, offfering tasty Indonesian and Western food at remarkably low prices. At every junction you will find a laundry; a tailor; stalls selling T-shirts, shorts, sandals and sarongs; and salons where you can have manicures, cream baths and wonderful massages for a fraction of the price that you would have to pay in the lavish spas. There is also an abundance of travel agents where you can arrange local transport to take you all over the Island, and if you're reading this because you forgot to buy a Lonely Planet guide, the second hand bookshops have all got copies in stock!

When Kuta appeared to be unable to expand, either physically or creatively, in any new direction, an unthinkable act of terrorism struck at its very heart. This led to a shift in strategy, new guidelines and planning; a gentle renaissance is now taking place and Kuta is slowly maturing.

For a sumptuous spa experience, visit DaLa Spa (Jl Legian 123b, T: 0361 756 276). The sexy sensuous décor here is reminiscent of a French boudoir, complete with sparkling chandeliers. Pampering treatments include the detoxifying and energy restoring 'High Tea', the scrumptious 'Tuti Fruity Spa', and the signature, exfoliating 'Royal Wedding Ritual'. Each of the seven treatment rooms presents a different colour theme. Another option is Theta Spa by the Sea (Ramada Bintang Bali Hotel, JI. Kartika Plaza, Tuban, T: 0361 755 726). With its fruity and flavoursome treatments, this sleek outfit offers treatments for inner and outer beauty, derived from ancient Chinese, Indian and Indonesian philosophies. Rituals include the aphrodisiac Chocolate Indulgence and Marine Invigorator, while scrubs incorporate Sumatran coffee and green tea.

Trendy cocktail venues include Eikon (Jl Legian 178, T: 0361 750 701), Kuta's newest and most stylish tapas bar and lounge. At the glowing onyx bar, the flamboyant mixologists create dramatic, must-see, must-try, flaming, fire-dancing cocktails. Expect something different! Every evening, between 6 pm and 10 pm, there is a 50% discount on all wines. One of the most pumping venues in Kuta and a veritable hot spot for a sophisticated cocktail to start your evening around town is Sky Garden (Jl. Legian, T: 0361 755 423). This multi-levelled restaurant and open-air rooftop lounge towers above the street. Here, you can hang easy on comfy sofas and listen to some cool sounds. On the opposite side of the street, Maccaroni (Jl Legian 52, T: 0361 754 662), is a masterpiece in polished grey concrete and tubular metal, flanked by cascading green vines. This restaurant and bar radiates chic Italian style in every form, from its awesome architecture, cool ambience and sophisticated music to its lively vibe, upbeat DJ music and generous 40 ml spirit measures.

Recommendations for dinner include Rosso Vivo (Jl Pantai Kuta, T: 0361 751 951), offering lip smackin' Italian cuisine, great pizzas and an exciting buffet, complemented by a wonderful view over Kuta Beach.

Happy Hour is from 5 til 7pm for Sunset Grill and Cocktail, or you might want to sample the the 'Volcano Pizza', pumped up with air until it resembles a football with a blue flame emanating from its core.. For local cuisine you should pay a visit to Kafe Batan Waru (Jl Kartika Plaza Tuban, T: 0361 766 303), featuring a fine selection of Indonesian dishes from around the archipelago, including legendary desserts. The specialties are created from traditional recipes that have been handed down through the generations of a Balinese family. Check out the delectable 'Ayam Rica Rica': grilled chicken in Manadonese chilli and shiitake mushroom sauce. Meanwhile, another old favourite is Ryoshi (Jl Melasti Legian, T: 0361 761 852), serving authentic Japanese food, sushi, sashimi and sake at prices that won't hurt your wallet. Dishes include attractively presented sashimi sets, sushi sets and miso soup. The cheese age is made from gooey mozzarella, there is also a delicious hot mixed mushroom salad, vegetable and seafood tempura and ebi fry, plus hot or cold house sake.

Finally, to round off the night, the Kuta nightscene is mainly focused around Jl Legian and Jl Pantai—the beach road. M-Bar-Go (Jl Legian, T: 0361 754 687), covers two floors, with an urban chic industrial theme, minimal lighting, dark décor and an underground vibe. Glass doors at the front open into a vast, air-conditioned interior space where resident and guest DJs play booming house music. Alternatively, cross the road to the more sophisticated Hook, which is part of the same empire. Other options in Jl Legian include Paddys, while on the beach road you will find live music performed by slick local bands at The Wave, Hard Rock Café, and Centerstage at Hard Rock Hotel (Jl. Pantai Kuta, T: 0361 761 869). Finally, Ocean Beach Club (Jl. Pantai Kuta, T: 0361 780 5193, 780 5192) is Kuta's newest, biggest and funkiest beach venue comprising a restaurant and grill, sports lounge, swimming pool, bar and night club. Nightly dinner shows feature acrobats, fire dancers and show girls. It's all in a night's work for Bali's most commercial tourist district, leave your inhibitions at the door and come on down...