April, in the world of seasons, is time for spring; a time of renewal and of new life so it is fitting that we present our readers with not just the best of Bali's spas but the best spa treatments, foods, herbal health drinks and retreats to bring you wellbeing and joy.
It's a five hundred year old industry with a 12% share of the pharmacy industry that is expected to expand from its base of 3,000 vendors nationwide in Indonesia to 200 times its current size by 2010. Most of its vendors ride bicycles and it is usually sold in the early morning to people seeking relief from coughs and colds, from sluggish systems and from matters requiring discretion.
It is Jamu, that unique herbal remedy that cures everything. Originally created from herbs and spices by traditional doctors called 'Dukun' or 'Tabib' and now consumed by nearly 80% of the population, Jamu is to Indonesia what milk was to the post-second world war era of Europe.
And yet there's more to it as Jamu is not just a medicine, people believe it can be an elixir of youth, an attractor of wealth and popularity. It is used to cure the body of unpleasant smells and reduce body fat. Jamus are inexpensive and readily available making them the medicine of choice for most Indonesians but that doesn't explain their popularity with the more affluent, or even the new trend of foreigners getting into the Jamu.
The benefits of Jamu lie in their relative lack of toxicity; they contain no alcohol or narcotics; they are not synthetic and are made fresh or from powder daily. Jamu does not sit for years on a dusty shelf, nor does it fail safety guidelines in other countries to end up on the shelves of developing countries' pharmacies.
On a quest for understanding I made a trip to Penny Williams, executive chef at Alila Manggis then visited Irma, Ibi Nengah and Ibu Soelastrii at The Tugu Bali (Jl Batu Bolong, T: 0361 731 701) for a crash course in Jamu preparation and experimentation.
Penny believes it is time for modern society to sit up and take note of what has been occurring around them, and take advantage of the magical health-giving Jamu. She says, 'When I create a new dish for the menu at Seasalt I take time to consider the ingredients that I will be using and their effect on the person who will be enjoying it. For me it is very important to achieve not only culinary pleasure but physical pleasure too. I relish in the thought that my guests will feel something more than just 'being full' at the end of their meal.'
Irma confirms this use as she explains that while Jamu is a medicinal drink the use of the Jamu herbs in cooking is prevalent in Indonesian traditional cooking, and while most people drink their Jamu young children have their Jamu herbs sewn into their clothing.
At the Tugu Hotel I was taken to a special area of preparation where I was introduced to the two Jamu makers, one of whom, Ibu Nengah, is Balinese and is learning the craft from Ibu Soelastri, who is Javanese by birth. Between them they select and prepare the herbs and roots for my 'drink' as I pick my way through the dried roots and brightly coloured spices on display.
I had described wanting to feel stronger, and was given a bright yellow drink that was, despite my trepidation, very tasty. Juma Kunir Asem is a little sweet and a little salty, it is slightly thick but also refreshing.
It is made form tamarind and tumeric, which gives it the colour, and uses sugar, salt and lime that give the sharp but sweet flavour. Jamu can be male and female specific or a general tonic and usually is consumed in the morning and afternoon. Ibu Soelastri gave me some recipes to make at home but wouldn't divulge any secrets that would assist me in attracting greater wealth, more handsome husbands or obedient children. So I'll make do with inner strength for now and see where that gets me!
Jamu is a positive and gentle way to achieve better health from nature's fresh ingredients and the innate wisdom of ancient traditions. So next time you feel a tickle in the throat, or about of fatigue instead of reaching for the pharmaceuticals put a bit of Jamu jiwa in your life.
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