Minggu, 26 April 2009

A beautful garden of Mengwi

The people of Mengwi in Bali enjoy the distinction of possessing a living heritage site and ritual venue called Taman Ayun.

Bali, famous as "the island of the Gods," is also an island of a thousand temples. Nearly everywhere in Bali, we find Hindu holy structures, ranging from small temples for family worship to the huge ones used by the entire population of Bali, known as khayangan jagat.

Temple architecture varies as well, from the simplest to the most complex. One of the most monumental temples in Bali is Pura Taman Ayun, which has just this year been nominated as a world cultural heritage site.

After a 30-minute drive northwest from Denpasar, I arrived in Mengwi District, part of Badung Regency.

The name Taman Ayun literally means "beautiful garden". This temple was originally a temple for the royal house of the Kingdom of Mengwi, but over time its function expanded until it became a place of worship for the entire populace of Mengwi District. The history of the temple is closely tied to the founding of the Kingdom of Mengwi in 1627. One of the oldest temples in Bali, it was built in 1634 CE on the orders of Mengwi's first king, I Gusti Agung Ngurah Made Agung.

Pura Taman Ayun reminds me of the gili garden architecture we find in the buildings remaining from the former kingdoms of Bali. Gili, meaning "small island," is a concept in traditional Balinese architecture that combines elements of water and land in a certain composition. In Hindu belief, water is a blessing of life from the god Wisnu, so it's quite common in Bali to find holy temple complexes full of water elements.

The Taman Ayun complex consists of four long rectangles. To enter the area, we have to cross a 20-meter pond over a single bridge at the south of the temple. This bridge connects the outer part of the complex, which includes the parking area, with the first inner section, called jaba sisi. Apart from its aesthetic function, the pond also provides irrigation for many agricultural areas in Mengwi District. And for the local community, the pond is also a place to relax and fish.

Pura Taman Ayun is divided into three spaces: jaba sisi, jaba tengah, and jeroan. The further in we go, the higher the elevation. This is a cosmological symbol: from the lowest space, inhabited by humans, to a holier space where the gods reside, and finally to the holiest section, the realm of God Almighty. To the right of the entry gate is a wantilan structure.

Here we also find a fountain, and a small temple called Pura Luhuring Purnama. After passing through jaba sisi, we enter the second area, called jaba tengah. Within this area are Pura Dalem Bekak and Bale Pengubengan on the east and Bale Kulkul on the west.

Tourists are not allowed to enter the jeroan section, but the management of Pura Taman Ayun has provided an alternative by making a path that goes around the area, enabling people to peek into the temple from outside the fence.

Worshiping within the jeroan pura area.Pura Taman Ayun is in active use as a site for rituals and cultural events; it plays an essential role in community life and therefore needs to be preserved. After being destroyed by a massive earthquake in 1917, the temple was gradually restored to its original form, starting in 1950. The pride of Mengwi's people, the temple is now being used again as a place of worship. And as one of Bali's important tourism destinations, it is also equipped with all the necessary support infrastructure – an extensive parking area, a rest area, toilets, tour guides, and security personnel. All of this makes Pura Taman Ayun not only an important cultural heritage site but also a fascinating place to visit.

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