Moyo Island: A Peaceful Forest by The Sea

This is the start of an adventure that leads along jungle tracks into the heart of the forest, venturing under the sea to swim with turtles and all the strange creatures of the deep. It is a walking, boating, diving and swimming weekend to the unspoiled Amanwana Bay, site of a luxury nature retreat on Moyo Island. Most of all, this journey to Amanwana is a chance to get back to nature and enjoy the simplicity of a peaceful life.

To reach Moyo, the journey begins at Denpasar airport on the Trivana Air Cessna Caravan, otherwise known as a floatplane. The plane flies past the peak of Mount Agung, then passes over Lombok's houses, farms and trees, before we find ourselves staring into the open crater of Mount Rinjani, filled with a mouthful of thick muddy emerald-coloured water. In the middle of this extraordinary lake, not far from the tallest peak of the crater, the small peak of baby Rinjani puffs a constant stream of cloudy smoke through a hole in its side.

It is 11 o'clock in the morning when we land at Amanwana, the intimate Aman retreat at the Moyo Island Nature Reserve, fifteen kilometres northeast of Sumbawa at the western end of Indonesia's secluded Nusa Tenggara Islands. The air is filled with the salty smell of the sea and the sandy heat of Moyo, the water beneath our feet is crystal clear and next to the jetty is a school of fish, including the beautiful purple and blue parrotfish, which are all watching us as we watch them.

From the jetty, I am led along a trail past the ocean and jungle tents, luxurious 58 square metre living spaces with solid wall foundations roofed by a soaring waterproof exterior and an interior covering of canvas, and into number 18, the ocean tent which is to be mine for the next three days.

Inside offers a charming Aman room that is air-conditioned, with hard wood floors, a ceiling fan for those who would prefer to turn the AC off, a king-size bed draped in netting, wheat-coloured divans, a writing desk, large bathroom with twin vanities, traditional Indonesian artwork from neighbouring islands and banks of windows that allow for a premium view of the natural surroundings.
My first adventure begins at the Amanwana beach boy area where I have planned to jump off the end of the jetty for a spot of snorkelling. Flippers and goggles in hand, I jump, carefully avoiding the school of fish, and swim straight into the red and white stripes of a huge lionfish. Splashing to an immediate halt I try desperately to swim backwards before his poisonous fins can touch my skin.

Somewhat in awe, and somewhat stressed, I change direction and swim off in the direction of Turtle Street in the hope of swimming with a green turtle instead.
After snorkelling, I wander along the stretch of sand known as Amanwana Bay, past the Jungle Cove Spa, and onto a small sandy road that promises to lead me toward Crocodile Head. Canvas map in hand, I follow the directions until I find two chairs and what is possibly the most perfect view of the sunset that can be imagined. As I sit, lost in the panoramic view of the Flores Sea as it turns to a light golden glitter next to the pink orange hues that fill the wide blue sky, the realisation dawns on me that I am a long way from camp. On the way back to camp, a set of very strange rustling noises catch my attention, my steps become quicker and I tell myself it is just a macaque monkey, or a bird rustling in the dry leaves, but I soon come to terms with the reality that I am being escorted home by a group of wild boar who have decided to block the path in front of me and grunt, snort and carry on until I decide to exit stage left.

The early morning turns Amanwana bay into a breakfast hunting ground. I rise early and wander toward the beach chairs to catch a glimpse of the spectacle. Before me, not even a metre past the edge of the sand, a dark cloud of fish smack the water, and I notice three black-tipped reef sharks coming towards them.

After a delicious breakfast of my own, a morning adventure into the heart of the island on a jungle excursion starts with a boat ride to the local town of Lapuan Aji, where I am taken on a tour of the local primary school, recently built by Amanwana, who plan to help educate the children on environmental awareness whilst they are learning their day to day education. Waving goodbye to the smiling faces and jumping on a restored Japanese Army Jeep, we venture past the cashew farms and grazing goats, and into a jungle that is dry but thick with palms and wild fig trees, torch-ginger blooms and shooting vines. A trail leads to a series of spring-fed waterfalls and limestone plunge pools, where bullfrogs call out as they jump through the inviting water, and I too, tempted by the chance to refresh in the beautiful watering hole, lower myself slowly into the cool deep waters.

The previous night I was feeling brave, and having met Sayaka, the very friendly and assuring PADI dive instructor based at Amanwana, I was convinced that I was in one of the most beautiful places in the world to try diving. The surrounding reefs teem with colourful fish, giant sponges, staghorn coral and gorgonian fans. Hawksbill and green turtles, moray eels, blue-spotted and eagle rays, lobster and other sea life are abundant, and in the protected waters of Amanwana Bay, there is not nearly as much to worry about as I had thought. So, I signed myself up for the beginners' lesson.

Upon returning to camp, I set off to suit up and jump face first into the land of fish. I have to say that the scariest thing about diving is the air tank. I had a preconceived idea that it would be back-breakingly heavy and that, weak with the weight, I would sink to the bottom of the ocean. It turns out that it is nothing like this at all. Sitting on the edge of the jetty, Sayaka already in the water, it's my turn to fall face first into the water. No time to back out now, so feeling like an alien invader, I fall face forward into the water. Over the next half an hour, I begin to understand the call of the underwater world, why divers think that it is so much nicer to swim with the fish, rather than over the top of them. I swim past the moving reefs next to a single giant tuna, close to adult turtles, find myself surrounded by a school of hundreds of fish, I stare at the tiny luminescent fish that live close to the coral, reluctantly touch a rare sea slug and watch as Sayaka smiles and stares in wonder at the world she loves so much, a world that I have seen from above, but until Amanwana, have never experienced from below.

There are many secret hideaway places to enjoy a meal around the camp, but the main open-air dining room, with its Sumbawa ipil wood floor, soaring bamboo roof and pillars of solid coconut, is the nicest. At night, when you sit on the lawn at the front of the restaurant, the view of the stars is exquisite. The staff are friendly and offer impeccable and attentive service. No matter where you choose to eat, there is a blackboard menu offering a selection of entrée, main and dessert options that changes with each meal time. The Amanwana kitchen likes to offer a combination of fresh Asian and Western dishes and each of the meals are made with organic vegetables and herbs picked fresh from the Chef's garden, combined with locally sourced produce and high quality imported items. If you are feeling adventurous a romantic beach barbeque is also an option, where sitting at a table in the sand you are served a freshly caught selection of lobster, prawns, squid and fish.

On my final day at Amanwana, I decide to start the morning early with a three-hour bat cave trek. Due to the length and difficulty of this trek, it is only available when accompanied by a guide. So, I made an appointment with Mr Samiun, who hails from Moyo Island and is said to have wandered the trails of Moyo since he was a young boy. The track is a continuation of the Brang Sedo Village path and leads to a cavernous hole within the forests of Moyo. The cave is inhabited by seven species of bat, that when disturbed, begin to fly in circles around the cave. Unperturbed, Samiun encourages me to venture further into the cave, until we find ourselves crouched on our knees, torch in hand, bats flapping past our faces, staring into the several caverns that lay beyond reach. As we head for the exit, a python slithers down from a rock opening high above our heads, and flicks his tongue at us in annoyance.

The best thing for the body after a long walk is, of course, a massage, followed by a juice and a relaxing swim in the pool. At Amanwana there are two spa areas. The first is an outdoor jungle cove spa, where you can truly relax within nature whilst you stare out at the ocean, and the second is a spa tent where you can enjoy the peaceful sounds of the forest from within the quiet, private air conditioned space of a tent.

The treatments at the Amanwana spa are based on the Aman signature menu, with the addition of a selection of Amanwana extras such as the Amanwana fruit facial made with local fruits and Moyo honey to refresh your skin after an adventurous day of sun and sand.

The starlight cinema is my final activity for the day, a special screening of Myths Magic and Monsters, the more recent series created by Dr. Lawrence Blair, famed for his Ring of Fire adventures in his youth. After this thorough education on the myths of the Green Sea Goddess is over, I return to my tent and the welcome of sleep, three days of land and sea finally catching up with me.
Set in one of the world's most untouched wilderness and marine environments, Amanwana comprises an open invitation to explore nature and indulge the senses in a landscape largely untouched by time. Amanwana helped me connect to the yearning for simplicity that I didn't realise I was calling out for.

Amanwana
Moyo Island, West Sumbawa,
T: 0371 22 233
amanresorts.com

Enchating Ubud

Walk along with Meliana Salim, as she shares with you a treasured collection of the moments and hidden secrets that make Ubud one of the most loved places in Bali.

Jacques Yves Cousteau once said that "when one man, for whatever reason, has the opportunity to lead an extraordinary life, he has no right to keep it to himself". Having spent two wonderful years in the heart of Ubud, I've had my fair share of defining moments, people, and places that make everyday living here truly extraordinary. Ubud is a constant magnet of incredibly fascinating and multifarious globetrotters. This is a compilation of 'Ubud Moments' lovingly put together with the generous recommendations from residents whose lives have been touched by our enchanting and enigmatic town: such is the magic of Ubud.
I believe when Bali was dubbed 'The Morning of the Earth' they were referring to the mornings in Ubud. The best way to experience the blissful dawns is by foot.

Book a guided three-hour herbal walk with Ni Wayan Lilir and I Made Westi baliherbalwalk. This is complemented by an introductory knowledge to Bali's living pharmacy and herbal remedies growing by the wayside, and an insight on rice cultivation methods used by farmers. Lilir and Westi come from a family of healers and farmers who are keen to use their skills as guides to help preserve Bali's unique indigenous heritage.

Greet the morning sun with a pleasant trek up the Campuhan Ridge. Begin at the turn-off to Ibah Resort near the Campuhan Bridge and follow the signs that lead to a temple dating back to the eighth century, Pura Gunung Lebah. Walk along a hillside of elephant grass until you reach Bangkiang Sidem Village (which literally translates to 'the back of the black ant'). The beautiful walk is approximately three kilometres long and passes through rice paddies and deep ravines before winding back to the main road.

Stop by Kakiang Café on Jl. Raya Pengosekan for the best croissants, pastries, and chocolate truffles in town. This inconspicuous Japanese-owned bakery also serves the elusive Maccha Latte – a green tea latte packed with antioxidants. Regulars include a grumpy elderly gentleman with his faithful novel and breakfast guests from the nearby Kakiang Bungalows.

Pack a picnic breakfast from Ubud's beloved health café and bakery, Bali Buddha (balibuddha) and head to the Ubud Botanical Gardens in Kutuh Kaja. Meet German-born author and developer Stefan Reisner and "come to a standstill after thousands of miles of noisy travel" in five hectares of tropical beauty: trespass into nature, meander through a natural ravine, get lost in a maze and gaze at your reflections in lily and lotus ponds.

Indulge in a truly one-of-a-kind luxury treat: The Royal High Tea Picnic. Exquisitely planned by the lovely long-term Ubudian Anneke van Waesberghe, take a short walk into another world designed by Esprite Nomade, a luxury lifestyle concept company catering to the high-end hospitality industry. Step into a lavish Safari-style tent with floating silken panels, pop the champagne, and enjoy the footbath and massage in the midst of the jungle. It is luxury redefined. For reservations call 08123849924.

There's a never-ending array of lunch spots in town and it takes countless disappointing meals to finally narrow them down to a few worthy of mentioning.

Forget what you read and know and head to Laka-Leke Restaurant (lakaleke) in the quaint woodcarving village of Nyuh Kuning for the best crispy duck in Ubud. It is a true hideaway in every sense: dine in tree-shaded pavilions amongst lush gardens, lily ponds, and rice fields. A local favourite, Warung Mina, on the road leading to Maya Ubud Resort, offers fresh grilled gurame served with traditional sambals. Warung Nasi Ayam Kedewatan Ibu Mangku is dominated mostly by out-of-towners and domestic tourists. There's no need to ask for the menu as they serve only one dish: chicken rice. This is almost like a chicken version of the famed Ibu Oka's babi guling. Ask for mild spices if you don't want your makeup melting down your face. Another local hotspot is Warung Makan Teges located outside of Peliatan, in Teges Village. This traditional roadside warung serves both chicken and pork rice.

The Smile Shop (senyumbali) in Banjar Taman is Bali's first charity shop and is run by volunteers and staff of the Smile Foundation of Bali, a non-profit, independent organisation founded by Mary Northmore, with the mission of bringing health care to people with craniofacial disabilities. All items for sale at the shop are donated brand new or good-as-new. To volunteer your time in the Shop call Mary on 0811 295 963. To donate money or drop off goods, call Carrie on 0813 3848 7498. All proceeds go towards bringing health care to people with craniofacial disabilities.

Shop with a conscience at Threads of Life (threadsoflife) on Jl. Kajeng, a fair trade business dedicated to sustaining Indonesia's traditional textile arts. Founders Jean Howe and William Ingram aim to alleviate poverty in rural Indonesia through culture and conservation. Enroll in introductory workshops on the history and traditional use of Indonesian textiles, weaving and dyeing techniques, and the ancient art of batik and dyeing with fresh indigo.

Immerse yourself in arts and culture and explore your creativity with Suzan Kohlik from her charming Sari Api Studio on Jl Suweta. Choose from various ceramic workshops or custom-designed classes and learn to work with clay, by hand building, or wheel-throwing. Email Suzan at sariapi@indo.net.id or telephone her on 0361 977 917. Life model painting sessions are all the hype every Wednesday and Saturday at Pranoto's Art Gallery on Jl. Raya Ubud (www.age.jp/~pranoto/).

Run by the artist couple Pranoto and his Australian wife Kerry Pendergrast, this lively gallery hosts exhibitions and a large collection of paintings by Indonesian and international artists.

A recommended detour from Ubud is a visit to Horizon Glassworks Studio and Gallery at Jl. Raya Kengetan (horizonglassworks). Witness the passionate hot glass artist, Ron Seivertson, express his glassblowing, painting, and sculpting talents through this sensitive, beautiful medium.

Pay a visit to the magnificent studios of Bali's most famous sculptor I Wayan Winten at his studios in Teges Village. Winten is a highly respected cement artist whose claims to fame include the statue of Bima Dewa Ruci on Simpang Siur roundabout near Kuta and the forty metre tall Pandawa head in Solo's water park. His high-profile clients range from President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono to Martha Tilaar. If you're lucky he might just invite you to his nearby home to say hello to his lollipop-loving pet bat.

Take a pause from your travels and hop into Ubud's charming independent booksellers. Meet friendly Thierry, the French owner of Rendezvous Doux on Jl. Raya Ubud, an international library and café boasting a collection of rare books and a daily screening of 1930s black-and-white movies of classic Bali. Trade your book in for a new read or donate it to Books for Bali Project at Ganesha Bookshop (ganeshabooksbali), an initiative that supports literacy and learning in the Balinese community. Located off the football field on Monkey Forest Road, Pondok Pekak Library is a classic oasis for more than 10,000 books and a creative, nurturing space for learning Bahasa Indonesia, Balinese dance, music and other art forms for children and the young-at-hearts.

A trip to Ubud is not complete without a visit to a spa. Nourish your body and soul at Spa (www.spahati.com), a blissful haven on Jl. Raya Andong whose operations help to generate income for Bali Hati Foundation (balihati.org) – a non-profit organisation that implements educational and social programmes in the Balinese community. If you are serious about your wellbeing, avoid the hyped-up, overbooked celebrity healers and start your personal wellness or healing programme with Dr. Sujatha Kekada at Amrtha Siddhi (amrthasiddhi), a no-nonsense Ayurvedic and yoga health centre. Dr. Kekada specialises in customised treatment and personalised yoga tuition as part of an overall treatment plan and healing progress of her patients.

For an intimate dining venue with an unpretentious atmosphere and superb modern Southeast Asian cuisine, head to the 'Kemiri' at Uma Ubud (uma.ubud.como.bz). Raw food genius Chris Miller, the Australian-born Chef, spoils guests with a refined, healthy gourmet menu featuring seasonal organically grown local ingredients in the Ikebuchi-designed, open-air space. Customise your own menu for private dinners-to-impress. The fabulous poolside bar has a cult-like following of young expatriates in Ubud. It is the place to see and be seen on New Year's Eve in the hills.

A true Ubudian would know that Thursday is tuna night at Ubud's favourite expatriate hangout, Naughty Nuri's Warung. Skip the ribs and order a tuna-themed dinner: tuna steak, tuna sashimi, and tuna satay. Come early and beat the busloads of tourists as dinner reservations are almost impossible on Thursdays. If you can't squeeze onto the bench, head down to nearby Nacho Mama's, Nuri's sister warung for the same great menu plus a selection of Mexican fare. Work off those Storm beer calories by signing up for a Saturday afternoon Bali Hash House Harriers run (balihashone).

Amandari (amanresorts) turns 20 this year. Its recent appointment of talented Executive Chef Christian Hinckley has brought an influx of foodies to the unassuming resort. Prior to Bali, Chef Christian has worked as a Sous Chef alongside the legendary "Chef of the Century" Joël Robuchon at The Mansion, a three Michelin star restaurant in Las Vegas. Keep an open mind and allow Chef Christian to entice you with his impeccable modern bistro cuisine and refreshing philosophy of "surprise and delight" at The Restaurant.

Gaya Gelato opened to rave reviews last July and has since gained a fast reputation for serving the best gelato on the island. This delightful gelateria is the brainchild of Massimo Boccedi: each scoop is lovingly prepared using the finest, freshest ingredients to stay true to its authentic Italian roots. A much-welcome addition to the Gaya Fusion family (gayafusion), it'll be almost impossible to decide on one flavour, so try them all. Don't miss Gaya's delectable Sunday Brunch and free art programme for children taught by top artists.

Spend a thought-provoking night out in the company of controversial documentaries and movies every alternate Monday at The Yoga Barn on Jl. Pengosekan. A notable mention is Gaya's screening of Tuesday evening art films in their spacious, minimalist gallery. Alternatively, challenge your brain on quiz night every Friday at Fly Café on Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Come well-prepared as they take it very, very seriously.

Learn to salsa every Monday and Friday night at eight pm at Indus Restaurant in Campuhan, where expatriates can be found dancing the night away to Latino music by Buenna Terra. There's also Open Mic Night at Flava Lounge on Jl. Pengosekan every Wednesday starting from eight pm. Participate in a lively jam session with an eclectic mix of local musicians, travellers, and the odd celebrity like Michael Franti thrown in for good measure.

Late-night owls and glitterati rejoice at the addition of Mozaic Lounge (mozaic-bali) – its upscale art deco chic a little piece of Seminyak in this tranquil town. Tantalising tapas style teasers are accompanied by signature cocktails, cool lounge tunes, and sophisticated live jazz music every weekend.
A favourite pastime to start a lazy Saturday is visiting Ubud's own Farmer's market on the verandah of Pizza Bagus on Jl. Pengosekan. The market is held from nine-thirty until two o'clock every Saturday. Show your support for Bali's chemical-free farmers and small businesses by buying their organic produce.

There are endless tales of travellers falling in love with Bali on their first visit and consequently moving to Ubud. If you find yourself in this soul-searching and home-hunting situation, enjoy the ride and check out the postings on the local notice boards for inspiration. Some of the best in town are Kafé on Jl. Hanoman, Bali Buddha, Pizza Bagus (best place for free wi-fi), and Juice Ja Café on Jl. Dewi Sita (exchange your old DVDs while you are there).

What is it about Ubud that makes dreamers, thinkers, and wanderers from all over the world fall head over heels in love and call it home? The name 'Ubud' originates from an ancient Javanese word 'Ubad' which literally means 'medicine'. Ubud is indeed the medicine to life: it is a place to eat, pray, love, and heal. Open your heart and mind and immerse yourself in everything that Ubud has to offer.