Emaar Withdraws From US$600 Million Lombok Project

The Jakarta Globe reports that a massive US$600 Million mega-resort planned for South Lombok is now in jeopardy.

The project of shopping, recreation areas, golf courses and luxurious hotels on a 1,200 hectare site is a "pet project" of Indonesia's Vice President, Jusuf Kalla, who personally invited Dubai's state-owned Emaar Properties to spearhead the investment.

Citing bureaucratic delays and an inability by the government to fulfill its obligations, Emaar announced that thy have closed their Jakarta office and are abandoning it plans for investing in Indonesia. Elly Savitri, a representative of Emaar said. "there have been too many delays on the realization of the project and the company just could not wait any more."

Jakarta Globe coverage suggests that greed on the part of government officials seeking hand-outs may have also played a role in a decision to cancel the project. Meanwhile, others suggest that the worsening global financial crisis may have adversely affected the liquidity of Emaar and diminished their keenness to pursue the Lombok investment.

Lombok is almost certain to be sent reeling by Emaar's decision to quit the project, seen as the catalyst for planned new roads and a new international airport in Lombok. The final project was targeted to host 10,000 luxury villas, eight hotels and two 18-hole golf courses.

Emaar told the press that they have already expended US$4.2 million in consultancy fees in connection with the Lombok project.

Jusuf Kalla's plans to woo Middle Eastern investors appears to be in serious strife. The withdrawal of Emaar from the US$600 million Lombok Project follows the recent pull out of the Saudi Arabian Bin Laden Group from a US$4.3 billion agricultural project planned for Papua.

Vice President Kalla has reportedly convened a special meeting of cabinet ministers in a last ditch effort to salvage the prestigious Lombok project.

Balinese Chef Wins World Class Honors in Chile

Arriving back in Bali on Tuesday, February 2, 2010, after the long series of flights from Chile, I Wayan Wicaya received an enthusiastic welcome due a returning hero from friends, family and colleagues at Bali Ngurah Rai International Airport. Too precious to be entrusted to his luggage, Wayan was carrying a trophy signifying one of the culinary world's most prestigious honors – winner of the Global Chefs Challenge 2010.
One of the largest individual chefs competitions in the world and sponsored by the World Association of Chefs Societies (WACS), the Global Chefs Challenge saw talented chefs from 88 counties who had won seven continental semi-finalists competing for the top prize in Santiago.

Held once every two years, the final round of competition sees chefs from seven regions prepare a four-course dinner for twelve people. Prepared and presented under the unforgiving gaze of a blue-ribbon panel of Master Chefs, judges rate the meal on culinary, hygiene and preparation standards.

The Final "cook-off" in Chile saw chefs from Indonesia (Bali), Norway, Canada, Portugal, Holland, Dubai and Australia vie for the gold cup.

Before competing in Santiago, I Wayan Wicaya, Executive Sous Chef at the Bulgari Resort Bali had to travel an arduous two-year battery of local, national and regional competitions before earning the right to represent Indonesia and Asia in the world finals. "The road to Chile was paved with hard work, skill, creativity and many smaller hurdles and to win this most prestigious prize is absolutely amazing and a confirmation of how far Indonesia has come in developing our local chefs to international standards," said Darren Lauder of Nusa Dua Beach Hotel who is also Vice-President of Bali Culinary Professionals (BCP).

Chef Andrew Skinner, serving as team coach, and the kitchen brigade at Bulgari, supported Wicaya’s bid.

Obviously, Wayan is delighted with his prize, saying: "Winning the title of Global Chef Asia was one of the highlights of my career. I remembered to stay calm and focused and just did my best. It was an amazing experience and I am very happy for myself and for my colleagues who have supported me and given me the confidence to take on this great challenge."

Joining Wicaya in Chile was the BCP’s first scholarship student, Alex Tanuhardja, who currently works as Commis Chef at Bulgari Resort in Bali, and also serves as the President of the Bali Young Chefs Club.In Santiago each competing chef is allowed an apprentice/assistant to help prepare the four-course meal. Alex has been with the chef throughout the competition, exposed to the highest level of expertise as he competed against Michelin-starred chefs from Europe, America, Australia and Africa.

There was also a wine-pairing competition held in conjunction with the Global Chef Challenge. Wayan, perhaps badly in need of a drink in the face of such stiff competition, was allowed to taste 8 premiere Chilean wines to pair 3 of the wines with his menu. Indonesia also won this award, creating a clean sweep for Wicaya and Indonesia.

"We are all so impressed by this effort and the win is the final confirmation that Indonesia’s chefs are capable of competing against the very best on any culinary stage. Here is the proof," said Andrew Skinner, "A Balinese chef has completely blown away the competition to take this prestigious title. For the Indonesian team just to have made it to the final was a dream, to win is beyond words."

"We went to Santiago with no expectations whatsoever. We were considered the dark horse. But what it shows is on the day (of competition) unbelievable things can happen. However we also believe this was no fluke, because we felt we would be well below the required standard, we rehearsed and practiced like you would not imagine, just to ensure we did not embarrass ourselves on the world stage. And then we won!" continued Skinner.

"We are so proud to have represented, Indonesia, Bali Culinary Professionals and ourselves at this level of competition. To win is just fantastic."

Lampung & Krakatau Volcanic Island

Ancient Chinese travel chronicles refer to a place in the most southerly part of Sumatra called “Lampung” or “place of southerly winds”. The province is gene-rally flat with the highest mountains of Gunung Pesagi, Tanggamas, Seminiung, Sekincau and Raya all being dormant volcanoes. Bandar Lampung, the Provincial capital, was formerly two separate towns, Tanjungkarang and the port of Teluk Betung, which after the infamous eruption of Krakatau were both completely covered in volcanic ash. In the course of development, however this town have merged together to become one single city.

Tourist Office:
Jl. Ahmad Dahlan No. 79, Gunung Mas,
Bandar Lampung 35211
Phone. (0721) 263401, 361430
Fax. (0721) 266184

Getting there:
Domestic airlines have daily flight from Jakarta. Rajabasa bus terminal is one of the busiest in Sumatra, with a constant flow of departures. The trip from Jakarta takes eight hours which include crossing Sunda strait between Merak in Java and Bakaheuni Lampung by ferry. Three trains a day run from Palembang.

Tourism Events
Krakatau Festival. This annual event is held at the end of August 25-30 2008 the festival commemorate Krakatau’s eruption in the late 19th century. The volcano is located in the Sunda Strait, South of Lampung, in the southern tip of Sumatra.

Places of Interest;

Bandar Lampung has a Museum and a Monument of Krakatau Eruption.

Krakatau Island

Krakatau is an inhabited island and located on the southern part of the Bay of Lampung. Krakatau is reachable in three hours by boat from Canti, a fishing village near Kalianda, South Lampung. Anak Krakatau (Child of Krakatau) is still growing, first emerging from the sea in early 1928, 45 years after the legendary eruption in 1883.

Krakatau Island is currently among three destination in Indonesia that has been qualified in the New 7 Wonders of Nature campaign held by the New 7 Wonders Foundation (two other candidates is Lake Toba and and Komodo National Park). You could support Krakatau Island to become the New 7 Wonders of Nature by voting through the following the URL:

http://www.new7wonders.com/nature/en/liveranking/

Pugung Archaeological

Pugung Archaeological Site in Pugung Raharjo village, 40 kms northeast of Bandar Lampung is a site of megalith and prehistoric relics, as well those of the classical Hindu-Buddhist period.

Merak Belantung Beach

Merak Belantung Beach is 40 km south of Bandar Lampung, on the way to the seaport of Bakauheni, the beach is ideal for swimming and wind surfing. Cottages are available.

Mentawai Island: the Ultimate Diversity of the Hidden Paradise

Located in the middle of Indian Ocean, 150 km and takes 9 hours trip from Padang, West Sumatra-Mentawai glowing with all the nature spirits and make it an extraordinary escaping spot from a hectic life. Mentawai is the natural habitat for 16 endemic species, and some of them categorized as endangered species e.g. Simakobu monkey (simias concolor-eat leaf as primary food).

The present life of Mentawai people categorized as the legacy from Neolithic era and they have a strong believe in nature spirit, for their life strongly affected by nature. They believe that nature is the center of life. All the genuine attributes make Mentawai a perfect place to gain cultural experiences, here you will notice a very fascinating and indigenous culture, like traditional cloths, art, music and the way of life. The entire culture attributes strongly reflects their respect to nature.

Tattoo is one of the most important symbol for Mentawai people, its reflect maturity, manhood and status. The art of this body painting inherit from their ancestor. The tattoos ink naturally made from leaf.

Among the surfers, Mentawai is the best place to fill their demand for challenges and natures beauty. The beaches offer one of the highest wave in the world, 3 to 4 meters, totally challenge your gut. Once you grounded your self in this hidden Paradise Island, next you will paddle out to the worlds best surf. Dont call your self Surfer if you havent ride Mentawais waves said most of the surfer to expressed their surfing experiences in Mentawai

There are four ultimate diving spot here in Mentawai ,Siberut, Sipora, Pagai Utara (north Pagai) and Pagai Selatan (south Pagai). You can find great waves here year round, but the best waves are during dry season, March to October. Make sure you have the gut to explore all the glassy waves, because the best way to entitled your surfing experiences remarkable is through finding your own.

Getting There

• Take flight from Sukarno Hatta air port, Jakarta to Tabing air port, Padang-west Sumatra (flight served every day)
• Trip from Teluk Bayur port, Padang to Mentawai island by Ferry

Where to Stay

Lot of visitors said, that the best housing to stay is the local people house. Offer you a distinctive way of living in a unique architecture and experience interacting with local people. Other wise you could stay in a budget hotel in Siberut




Moving Around

To access all the beauties offered, you can use boat owned by local people. You can find the boat a long the beach and the rate depend on your bargaining power

Boost your taste with exotic and fresh sea foods that you can found in the local restaurants run by local people. If you are lucky enough, you can pick and cook your own sea food, but make sure you know the secret recipe/spices from Mentawais people. For those who are not sea food lover, you can find regular meals for your dining.


Souvenir Tips

Local hand made souvenirs like traditional hats, traditional bag and accessories will be genuine souvenirs for your relatives and friends. You can buy it in a souvenirs shop or buy it from local people directly.

Other Things to See or Do

Beach Activities

• sight seeing
• Diving
• Snorkeling

Cultural Activities

• Learn how to perform the Traditional dances (war dance and gratitude to nature)
• Traditional ceremonies
• Mentawai is one of the best place to conduct an Ethnographic study since its one of the oldest tribe in Indonesia

Ecotourism Activities
As the habitat for rare primate, the natural rain forest of Mentawai will be the perfect place for research or other educational purpose. Here, you can conduct research about

• Snub-nosed monkey/Simakobu (Simias concolor) monkey family eat leaf as primary food
• Joja or Lutung Mentawai (Presbytis potenziani) easily identified for the long tail, white face and black hair head
• Bokkoi atau Beruk Mentawai (Macaca pagensis)
• Kloss Gibbon/Bilou or Siamang Kerdil (Hylobates klossii) famous for the beautiful voice, different compared to general monkey

Travel Tips

• Nature and culture come to be understood and respected
• Bring your own surf board with you, because its may hard to find surf board shop in Mentawai
• You may arrange your travel using the local travel agent in Indonesia
• Great wave can be find year round, but best wave is during dry season March to October
• Bring your personal medicine
• You may arrange your visit by contact the travel agent and airline services in Indonesia

Indonesian Team Heads off as Asias Representative

The Indonesian Team has gone through their final stage of preparation and has departed as Asia’s representative for the International Culinary Competition, WACS Global Chefs Challenge Finals at Santiago Chile, 24-28 January 2010.

Bali Culinary Professionals (BCP) held a special gathering at The Laguna Resort and Spa for the team presentation.

This team, consisting of Balinese chef I Wayan Wicaya and apprentice Alexander Tanuhardja, both of Bulgari Resorts Bali, took the honors at the World Association of Chefs Society (WACS) Global Chef Asia competition held in Hong Kong early 2009, defeating long standing champions from Hong Kong and Singapore.

On their journey to Chile, they were accompanied by team leader/trainer Andrew Skinner, executive chef of Bulgari Resorts Bali, vice president of Bali Culinary Professionals (BCP) Darren Lauder, executive chef of Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa, and Dias Raditya Wijaya, a member of Young Chefs as junior delegate.

Since winning the regional competition, the team went through grueling daily trainings for three months, with over 200 hours of practice to polish their culinary expertise.

“Each step bringing us closer to Chile has been a major challenge, in terms of effort, time and financing. Our achievement today would not have been possible without the helping hand of all the BCP Committee, members and partners,” claims Made Putra, president of BCP during the gathering at The Laguna Resort and Spa, “We extend our gratitude to all our loyal sponsors who have supported us morally and financially”.

The WACS Global Chef Challenge competition is held every two years and coinciding with the WACS Congress, this year held in Chile. This competition brings seven finalists selected from the various continental areas (Asia, Pacific Rim, Africa, The Americas and northern, southern, and central Europe) to prepare and present a well-balanced four-course menu.

The winner will be crowned the WACS Global Chef Champion and be rewarded with a trophy and monetary award.

Bali Culinary Professionals is a non-profitable organization that supports chefs in Bali with members comprising of chefs of various levels from hotels and restaurants across the Island of Bali, together with food and beverage managers, owners and suppliers to the hospitality industry.

The goal of the organization is to create, maintain and improve professional standards of chefs, highlighting and encouraging new and needed skills, facilitating new ideas and exposing Balinese food and their craftsmen locally and overseas.

For more information on Bali Culinary Professionals: www.balichefs.com or contact
BCP Secretariat, c.o. Travel Works Communications International
Jl. Kesari 60A, Sanur, Bali
Tel 0361.284095, Fax 0361.270189
E-mail : info@travelworks-bali.com

The Sumba Culture : Facinating, Mysterious

"The ratu? He's sitting over there, trying to figure out if this will be a nice funeral," says a solemn onlooker.

Lying on the bloodied ground are a dozen disembowelled hens, and like an Etruscan haruspex, the elderly ratu – the great priest – solemnly explains to latecomers: "Yes, the entrails say that the one today will be an excellent funeral."

David Danggalolu and his wife Albertina died within a few days of one another, both from illness. A tragic event, which in small Mgambadeta, at the centre of western Sumba, must be honoured with the necessary pomp (and with the sacrifice of at least fifteen buffaloes).

That's why eighteen-year-old Umbu, wearing jeans and a T-shirt, who two minutes earlier smilingly explained that he loved listening to America R&B, doesn't give a moment's thought to unsheathing his parang and slitting the throat of the first buffalo of the day.

Sumba is one of the 18,000 islands in Indonesia. Twice as large as Balì and 400 kilometres farther east, Sumba was frequented by the Portuguese and then the Dutch, traders of the sandalwood. Sumba's isolation has allowed it to be better preserved: its slow rhythm, life marked by the agricultural cycles, the uncontaminated beaches, the raising of horses and the extraordinary megalithic tombs—it is one of the most fascinating and mysterious cultures in all of Indonesia.

At the tourist office of Waikabubak, a starting point for exploring the western zone, about fifteen people in khaki uniforms seem surprised by the presence of a tourist. A woman, Miss Anisa, came to sit in her office and says, "The best part of the island is the western part, Sumba Barat, more fertile and culturally richer than Sumba Timur, the eastern part."

"Here in Sumba, people still have the warriors' temperament," says André, a Frenchman who for several years has been making water wells in some local villages.

The ikat, Sumba's typical cloth so desired by tourists (its characteristic is the dying of the threads before the weaving), often depicts scenes of combat and warriors on horseback gripping long spears.

At the beginning of the planting season, from mid-February to mid-March, the warriors return to combat. Today, they do it during the Pasola, one of Indonesia's most famous festivals: a simulated battle during which groups of horsemen challenge and hit each other with long spears, the hola, from which the festival takes its name.

Pasola, the horsemen's festival, is also derived from another legend: Thousands of years ago Umbu Dula from Wanukaka left his village to go fishing but never returned. After
a while, his wife Rambu Kaba married another man, Tedo Gai Parana from Kori. Umbu Dula, however, wasn't dead: upon returning suddenly to the village, he burst into a rage, but Rambu Kaba didn't want to abandon her new husband and therefore Tedo Gai Parana had to pay Umbu the wife's price: buffaloes, horses, jewellery, weapons and nyale, the sacred sea-worms. To ensure peace, the people of Kori invited those of Wanukaka to a simulated combat, the Pasola, which, ever since then, has been celebrated every year in February and March, exactly when the sea is filled with nyale, the appearance of which is a good omen for the future harvests.

Every year the government tries to keep the situation under control, but participants are often wounded or even killed on the field of festive battle. This was, in the end, the purpose of many battles in the past: not so much to square away accounts as to let human blood flow in honour of the ancestors, thus guaranteeing a good harvest.

"Do you see that stone slab over there?" says an elderly man during Mgambadeta's funeral.
"It's the tomb of our warrior Rato Dapaduu, who was killed while fighting against the Dutch. And his pistol has been buried along with him."

"Sumba is an island where the tombs are usually in the centre of the village in front of the dwellings to remind the inhabitants that death is the most important event of all," says André.

Funerals last entire weeks and the poor go to many lengths so as to be able to offer a worthy burial for their loved ones, thus keeping the tradition alive. The sacrifice of buffaloes and pigs sanctions the deification of the deceased, and the sacrificed meat is offered to those present in sumptuous feasts.

One of the most beautiful tombs of the island is at Pasunga, about twenty kilometres east of Waikabubak, and it is said that when it was built at the beginning of the last century, 150 buffaloes were killed.

Julius, the 40-year-old head of the village, explains that in 2000, when his father died, 24 animals were killed (more than 15 pigs, 7 horses and an indefinite number of dogs and sheep).

The buffalo horns still ornate the outside walls of his hut. Julius usually gets up at five in the morning and like everybody else goes to work in the rice fields. Today he lives peacefully together with his people, but a long stele on the main road reminds us that, deep down, these people remain warriors at heart.

Twenty years ago there was a conflict with the nearby village of Tamu Au, in which several people died and the head of the enemy chief was buried under that stele.

"We danced for many days, it was a great battle. Since then we haven't had any kind of relations with the people of Tamu Au," Julius says.

The kampung along the southern coast of Kori are among the most fascinating in Sumba. They offer a spectacular view of the nearby beaches frequented by the fishermen, whereas the houses of Paranobaroro and Wainyapu with their straw roofs tower beyond the forest. Raised from the ground, the Sumbanese dwellings have a raised first level with the floor made of bamboo, and a long veranda (the animals live underneath).

Ann McCue, a sixty-something Englishwoman, has lived her entire life divided between Washington and London, but in 2002, when she happened to come to Sumba on vacation and witnessed the Pasola, she fell in love with the island. She returned several times, until a year later she remained definitively.

"I decided to help these people, and I understood that there were two priorities: water and education," she says.

Ann founded "Project Hope – Sumba," which aims to create new wells, schools in the more depressed areas and courses for teachers.

"One out of two children of Sumba abandons school after only three years and is forced to work with his or her parents," Ann explains.

But she also admits that "many of them seriously want to improve. And then, here there's truly a lovely community, social relations, friendship, all of that which cannot be found in England anymore."

Ann thinks for a moment, sips her iced tea and smiles:
"Write down that here in Sumba, in order to improve things, even just a few people can really make a difference".

More on Sumba
Fly to Bali and once there take a ferry. Sumba is one of the islands of Nusa Tenggara that stretches out to the east of Bali. In Sumba, the dry season is approximately from March to October. Waikabubak, the capital of West Sumba, is the ideal starting point for exploring the western part of the island by car or motorcycle.

Places to Stay and to Eat
The Manandang Hotel and the Artha Hotel. In the city, you can eat excellent lotek – rice, vegetables and peanut sauce. In Sangkuring, a warung nasi (rice restaurant) can be found on your right as you leave town heading east along the Bhayangkara.

Mentawai - Eternal Identity and the Forest Primeval

The remote forest in the depths of Siberut National Park in the Mentawai Islands holds tales of a society that firmly upholds its culture.

We started our journey with a ten-hour crossing of the Mentawai Strait from the fishing port of Bungus (near Teluk Bayur) in a wooden ship crammed with foreign tourists. I felt the ship being pounded by rolling waves, which seemed to be headed for Muara Siberut, considered one of the world’s ten best surfing locations.

It was six in the morning when we landed, yet the dock area was teeming with car and motorcycle services all seeking to take the tourists to Simalepek village, a commercial center with many government offices and also the gateway to Dorogog village and the small islands for surfing.

I then traveled by motorboat another hour and a half to Dorogog, heading toward the home of Pak Koki, or Sikerei (term of address for the head of a household), and began to sense the exotic lifestyle of the people of Mentawai.

From the distance, we could see a number of people waving and shouting “Alai loita, alai loita!”, the Mentawai words for “welcome.” The local people’s joy was evident as the small children escorted me to an uma, or Mentawai house.

Inside the uma, the aroma of tobacco smoke was intense. The interior was decorated with ape and pig skulls, as we see in most uma. I made out the silhouette of an old man sitting with a hand-rolled cigarette dangling from his lips. He smiled and waved to me.

“Alai loita, alai loita,” he said.

This was Sikerei, whom I’d come to meet; he’s nearly 80 years old and is believed to have shamanic powers to mediate between his family members and the spirits of their ancestors.

Pak Koki had a son, who died before he was able to pass on the position of Sikerei to him.

Given this situation, in the end Pak Koki remained his family’s Sikerei. To be a Sikerei, one must follow certain traditional restrictions that seem odd to outsiders, such as a taboo on eating eels. But he has abided by these taboos – proof of his loyalty to the traditional ways and the teachings passed down from the ancestors.

In the evening, Sikerei sang a song in the Mentawai language, accompanied by the nighttime sounds of the forest. There was no electricity; the only light came from a Petromax kerosene lamp given to them by a tourist.

I joined the family gathered in the fading light of the Petromax lamp. Sikerei started to tell about the tattoos that cover the bodies of the Mentawai people. Each stroke in the designs has its own meaning, signaling identity and serving as eternal clothing that they take into the unseen world. The tattooing process is sacred and full of pain. Sikerei told about his own experience when his body was tattooed.

“This many many aww.....blood blood and many, many cry,” he said, trying to explain in English, though it took me some time to make out what he was saying.

Most young Mentawai nowadays no longer want to get their bodies tattooed like Sikerei’s generation did; they cite the extraordinary pain, but the influence of outside modern culture is no doubt also a factor.

In the morning, as the dawn peeked through the branches outside the uma, Sikerei strode toward the forest with a parang in his hand. An hour later, he returned, carrying a section of sago tree nearly the size of his body. Amazing. Though far from young, he still engages in such activities every morning. Meanwhile, his wife was fishing in the river near the house. In Mentawai culture, the task of seeking food from the river, such as fish, shrimp and shellfish, falls to the women, while the men are responsible for hunting and gathering in the forest.

I had been told that there were several waterfalls in the forest; one is Kulukubuk, at Madobag village. The only way to get there is to trek through the forest. The terrain was beyond my expectations: hills, valleys, rivers, thorny underbrush and muddy trails.

The next day, we returned to Dorogog village. Sikerei had prepared something the Mentawai are very proud of: hunting poison, made from various plants and smeared on an arrowhead, then heated over a small flame. Unfortunately, I didn’t get the chance to see it being used; there were no apes or other prey to be hunted, because the right time for hunting is morning. But instead, kind Sikerei taught us how to shoot a bow and arrow. Neither I nor any of my friends were able to do it right. It looks easy, but it requires special expertise, and a great deal of strength when you pull the bowstring.

The evening was full of typical Mentawai exoticism. Sikerei invited some friends over to dance the Turuk, a sacred dance the Mentawai people perform for healing. So sacred is this dance that every dancer must be dressed in a kain (wraparound waistcloth). Accompanied by a simple rhythm, they performed various Turuk movements, symbolizing the movements of birds and of snakes. And then Sikerei took my hand and had me join them in the dance.

After dancing, we gathered again with Sikerei’s entire family and told them about our experience the previous day going to the waterfall. In the midst of our conversation, Sikerei suddenly gave me an unforgettable present: a Mentawai name. He gave me the name Laisan Nun, “the sweet one”. Masura bagata (thank you), I said to myself.

Getting to Mentawai
Garuda Indonesia flies the Jakarta-Padang-Jakarta route 21 times per week.
From Minangkabau international airport, proceed 45 minutes to Bungus harbor to take the ferry.

The Mentawai Islands lie within the province of West Sumatra and consist of 213 islands; the four major islands are Siberut, Sipora, Pagai Utara, and Pagai Selatan. Dorogog village is on Siberut Island.

Show romanization Belly Dance Festival Asia

This belly dance festival will feature the famous dancers of Asia, including Middle Eastern star, Jillina. They would anesthetize Nusa Dua with sexy belly shake, swing arms, and agility hooves on stage. Not only adult women, this event also opens the opportunity for children to show his talents. bellydancefestivalbali

Muck diving at Gilimanuk

Gilimanuk Bay, a three and a half hour drive from Denpasar, Bali, was made popular in the early 90s by a Japanese underwater photographer who owned a dive center in Bali. Thanks to his underwater photos, many Japanese divers made the journey to go diving at Gilimanuk Bay, an area which teems with unusual marine life such as snake eels, fingered dragonet, mimic octopus, pegasus, frogfish and many other species. This location became so popular in Japan that a major Japanese television network produced a documentary on the mimic octopus in Gilimanuk Bay.

Most tourists stay in the Pemuteran area, around 30 km east of Gilimanuk. They are attracted by the “muck diving” – a type of diving in which divers have to discover the hidden marine life by probing in submerged trash and mud, sand, and dead coral.

Diving at Gilimanuk Bay is very easy. You can park right in front of the dive site, unload your gear, prepare for your dive and head directly into the shallow water. Conditions in the bay are relatively calm. If there is a current, it’s usually very weak. Dive depths range from one to eight meters. If you go diving between June and October, the water is rather chilly – as low as 23 degrees Celsius. When diving here, it’s recommended to use an underwater compass and have good underwater navigational knowledge. The relatively flat sea bed and vast expanses of sand can lead to disorientation.

Once you are in the water, look out for movements in the sandy seabed, among the trash or near the coral reefs. These small movements may signal the presence of hidden marine life. There are extensive clusters of sea urchins, so watch out for their sharp spikes. Among the sea urchins, you’re likely to see Banggai cardinalfish, which are not actually native to Gilimanuk Bay.

The Banggai cardinalfish is endemic to the waters of the Banggai islands off Sulawesi and is very popular with aquarium enthusiasts. Some of the fish that were caught could not be sold locally to aquarium customers due to their relatively poor quality and these fish were returned to the sea at Gilimanuk Bay, leading to the invasion of Banggai cardinalfish here.
Exploring the sea bed in the bay, you will find many coral reefs, both natural and artificial. As well as the Banggai cardinal, you have the chance to see unusual species including frogfish and ghost pipefish and in the sand you can find snake eels.

Also to be seen here is the “elephant trunk sea snake”. When I dived here in 1999, we saw this sea snake, which at the time was still referred to simply as “unidentified sea snake”. The unusual feature of this sea snake is its nose, which typically has two small bulges of air.

Apart from Gilimanuk Bay, another well-known muck diving location is Puri Jati, a beach at Seririt village, around 10 km west of Lovina.

As at Gilimanuk, diving is done through “beach entry”; you simply walk in from the beach and proceed to the depths, ranging from one meter near shore to up to 30 meters further out. Here too, disorientation is a major concern, as there are so few natural references. One special feature of this site is the many species of flabellum coral, at both shallow and greater depths. These round corals, with a diameter of one to two cm, look like buttons spread out on the sandy seabed.

The area is also home to many species of octopus, especially the mimic octopus. Although the mimic octopus is also found at Gilimanuk Bay, you’ll have a much greater chance of sighting it at Puri Jati. Other unusual octopus species here include the coconut octopus and the blue ring octopus. The coconut octopus favors dwelling in various types of cavities. Don’t be surprised if you encounter an octopus living in a shell. The blue ring octopus is small and quite beautiful. It displays blue rings on its skin when it is under stress which become even more prominent when the octopus feels threatened. Although they are small (around 3–7 cm), these octopuses are among the most venomous creatures in the sea. The venom in their saliva can kill an adult human. So if you see these creatures, approach them slowly and don’t get them too excited, and you’ll be able to witness their amusing behavior. Never try to touch one.

Following the popularity of Gilimanuk Bay on the western end of the island and Puri Jati on the north coast, the latest muck diving location in Bali is at Seraya. Seraya is located at the eastern end of Bali, around 3 km east of Tulamben, one of Bali’s best known diving locations.

What makes this location special is the population of rare and unusual shrimp species. If you’re lucky (and this is likely), you will find various types of shrimp living in symbiosis with crinoids (sea lilies). The shrimp are usually the same color as the crinoid that is their host. You should stop at each crinoid and examine it carefully; be careful with the tentacles, which break off easily and can cause itching. Don’t touch the crinoids directly with your hand; use a small stick and touch it gently.

One species to especially watch for at Seraya is the harlequin shrimp, which eats starfish and often lives in pairs. This species is fairly easy to photograph, even with a simple digital camera.

Family Fun : Waterbom

Bali's very own waterpark, really does have something for everyone.Set on 3.8 hectares of land; most of which is lush tropical gardens; it is a beautiful location and is perfectly cared for. Waterbom is actually one of Bali's botanical gardens with a wide range of plants – some easy to find, others very rare. Some are planted by their own gardeners, others simply grow from seeds dropped by birds.

The park is a five minute drive to/from the airport & right in the heart of Kuta opposite Bali's bustling shopping mall – The Discovery Mall.Living here with children, I have to admit to being a pretty regular visitor; however when I went recently, I went not only to enjoy, but also to look for things to write about. Result: the place has far more than I ever realised! In the last six months the entrance has moved and grown. It now houses a shop and Soul Asylum a spa offering treatments for children as well as adults; as well as the regular 'way-in' turn style. The security is very good. They have also improved the guest facilities so now there are bigger lockers and changing rooms – pink for girls, blue for boys! There are hot showers, facilities for the disabled and a babychange room. A new PA system keeps you informed of events happening throughout the day.

The main attraction has to be the slides. There is a series of six 'big slides' ranging from the soft and gentle 'Raft River'; great for younger children, to the absolutely terrifying 'Smash Down' for the 'less fearful' - you drop out of the sky and end up with your stomach in your mouth. Some slides require huge tyres to get down, some mats and some just your bare bum! Some you can do with a partner – or even accompanied by three others if you take a double tyre and sit on each others' laps with the aim of going 'really fast'! Some you have to do alone. Whichever, whatever, there are HOURS of fun to be had. And plenty of steps to climb.

The 'kiddie's area' is great fun for the children. It houses three shorter, slower slides along with 'Bombastic' – a wet climbing frame with slides, water guns and a huge bucket which sporadically tips, consequently soaking anyone underneath it. The gardens all around the kiddies area have recently been extended offering loads more space and more sunloungers. Waterbom's newest addition, just recently opened is The Boomerang. Waterbom is the first water park in the Asia Pacific region and only the fourth in the world to have this slide – so quite something!It is a massive half pipe on which two riders shoot down a steep slope creating enough speed to send them up a ten metre ramp at a sixty degree angle and then come down backwards; and very fast! The ride lasts for about fifteen seconds and will leave you breathless! Adrenaline seekers – this is for you.

All Lifeguards in the park are Australian trained, very friendly and speak great English. There always seems to be an abundance of them and all staff in general. Life saving equipment is of international standard and particular attention is paid to the kiddie's area in keeping it non slip, clean and safe. Qualified first aid attendants with eyes in the back of their heads are also around.So what else is there to do? Mandara Spa have a Bale near the large pleasure pool which offers a range of pampers & wonderful aromas – take a babysitter or a husband/wife & hide out there! Half price for KITAS holders. Other activities? The pleasure pool – as you enter - is great for lounging around; it is also the place for the odd game of volley ball and water aerobics take place daily. Close by is a duplicate rock face, for those of us that fancy exerting loads of energy and climbing a sheer rock. If not, try Ping Pong, Football, Badminton, Boules, Pool or just lazing around in the sun! There really is something for everyone here.

Scuba Duba Doo has an outlet inside Waterbom. Introduce your children to scuba diving - lessons are for children from 8-12 years old. Contact Waterbom for more information on the ins and outs.So with all these activities what about food?. The food at Waterbom is fantastic and supplied by M&M Catering. Yet again, there is something for everyone – Pizzas, Asian, Snacks, Salads, Sandwiches; every tastebud is catered for. You can even sit on your sunlounger & have it brought to you if you are feeling really lazy! No extra charge. After lunch there are ample tempting icecream stands around. All this and the prices are very reasonable.

Now what else to entice you? As you leave (or as you arrive depending on how fast you can get by it) is Eurobungy., Lots of children seem to 'need' to do it! Great fun – an upside down Bungy. Before leaving you also need to get past the photo stand. All day long Big Brother has been watching you & you didn't even realise! And there is your grin plastered on the wall – you gotta buy it. I recently went to Eurodisney where they do the same thing, but you have to take out a mortgage to buy the photo – once again prices here are very reasonable.

So, all in all – a great day out, a lot of fun and something for every minute of the day. Children love it, so do the adults. The food is good, so are the souvenirs and the memories. What more can you ask? Enjoy! Entrance fees are reasonable but Waterbom also do regular offers whereby you pay for one day and get the next half price. They also do annual memberships with which you can visit four times a month.

Please call direct for current information on +62-361 755676. The Waterbom shuttle bus serving various hotels is also bookable on this number.

This Month Romance in Paradise

"Paradise is always where love dwells" Jean-Paul F. Richer

Bali has long been considered the perfect destination to celebrate romance; lazy days on tropical beaches, a candlelit dinner, moonlit walks along palm-fringed shores, proposals culminating in weddings followed by honeymoons. It is for this very reason that many of the rich and famous opt for Bali as their wedding destination. On the following pages, Hello Bali has chosen a few from the cream of the crop to give you a taste of romance – Bali style. Make the most of this Valentine, and surprise your loved one with a dinner, overnight stay, proposal, or second honeymoon. Celebrate life and live it to the full – and keep the love light aglow, especially with a Bali sunset as a stunning backdrop.
By Sarah-Jane Scrase.

Komaneka Resort
Your Piece of Heaven

Nestled between running streams and rice terraces, Ubud is home to the exclusive Komaneka Resort Hotel. Lush tropical vegetation and an abundance of exotic plants, a veritable romantic oasis in the midst of Ubud’s bustling activity and picturesque Monkey Forest Road surround the resort.Imagine your romantic wedding ceremony set amidst Bali’s lush emerald-green rice terraces, azure-blue sky and tropical breeze. What a magical setting for a lifetime of memories! Komaneka welcomes the opportunity to serve and celebrate with you in its most beautiful, secluded and serene place, a romantic sanctuary of art on the Island of the Gods. Exchange your lifetime vows in a blessing ceremony tailored uniquley for you. Choose a Balinese or Western style ceremony for your dream day. Bring lots of love, the ultimate reason to marry, a brand new ring to tie the knot, a borrowed bit of luck from a happily married couple and get something blue for unconditional loyalty and devotion. Monday is for wealth, Tuesday for health and Wednesday is the best day of all. Even if you are married on Friday, Saturday or Sunday, the bright Bali sun that shines will make sure that your lives will be prosperous and fine.Komaneka Spa offers healing and relaxation with high quality natural products. The Spa provides the ultimate indulgence by gracious staff in a beautiful setting. Tranquil sounds of rippling water compliment the soothing aromas of herbs and spices. Komaneka Spa is a haven of serenity and natural splendour for those seeking to replenish body, mind and soul. Spa luxuries include relaxing massages, herbal body scrubs and wraps, and herbal baths in an exotic Indonesian style. Open-air treatment rooms—for couples—offer ample space and privacy, for the perfect romantic experience.Contact Komaneka Resort on T: 61-361- 976090 F: 62-361-977140 - www.komaneka.com

Hotel Tugu Bali
Between Heaven and Earth

Somewhere between heaven and earth, among the petals of red roses and the fragrant bloom of frangipanis, lies Hotel Tugu Bali... a place so surreally exotic, that many have described as only existing in dreams. It is where the sunset portrays the color of passion, where the waves lullaby the lotus flowers through moonlit nights, and where each of the adorning priceless Southeast Asian artwork whisper romantic stories. At Tugu Bali, orchestrate the wedding of your dreams in various stunning settings, whether the ceremony consists of an intimate couple, or as many as 300 people. From marriage papers, consulate documents, luscious wedding cakes, custom-made menus, exotic decorations, entertainment, dance performances, floral services, wedding bouquets, to professional photography and videotaping services, the experienced wedding coordinator will make sure that every step of your destination wedding arrangement is worry-free and flawless, and that all your wishes are thoroughly fulfilled. For more details about your heavenly wedding at Hotel Tugu Bali , or to enquire about the tropical wedding packages, including cocktails and delicacies, sumptuous dinners with menus ranging from Balinese Megibung, Royal Rijsttafel, to East meets West fusion, or to arrange a romantic dinner on the beach, or even a romantic getaway, please contact E: bali@tuguhotels.com T: 62-316-731-701 F: 62-361-731-704

Tirtha Luhur Uluwatu
The VillaTirtha Bali’s Luxury Private Villa for Elite Weddings

In inimitable Tirtha style an incredible creation of luxury accommodation exemplifying indulgence, style, design innovation and sheer opulence has been launched with Tirtha Luhur Uluwatu - The Villa, a spellbinding and architecturally magnificent five star private villa and transposable wedding venue located on the spectacular cliffs of Uluwatu in south-west Bali. Billed as the platinum label of Tirtha properties, Tirtha Luhur Uluwatu – The Villa will be ready to receive the elite from this month onwards.Located just 50 meters across from her magnificent sister property Tirtha Uluwatu, Tirtha Luhur Uluwatu – The Villa offers three separate luxury bedroom chambers each with their own bathroom, a superbly appointed guest lounge room, two tiered 20 meter infinity edged swimming pools, an outdoor gazebo pavilion and the first transposable purpose built air-conditioned wedding pavilion within a luxury villa.A private chef, sommelier, vintage cellar, full butler services, footmen and chamber maids are on hand to deliver infinite services from custom designed menus, hand drawn Champagne to Café Latte Chocolate Baths. Immaculately presented with flawless attention to detail & signature Tirtha style this exquisite property has already been booked by celebrity and society sets from around the globe.

More information on: T: 62-361-772255 F: 62-361-777252
E: yuka@tirtha.com - W: www.tirtha.com

The Viceroy Bali
Timeless Romance

In the cultural heartland of Bali, a sanctuary of privacy and security is the elegance and refined luxury of The Viceroy Bali. Beautifully appointed private villas with individual swimming pools nestled in the serenity of the Lembah Valley, yet just minutes from the excitement of Bali’s world famous artist community. Ubud. This is the perfect choice for a ‘secret’ romantic getaway, or, a first, second or third honeymoon.With their fine health spa, the Lembah, and a breathtaking gourmet restaurant, Cascades, The Viceroy Bali offers all the services of an elite hotel, yet the discretion and privacy of a secluded retreat..The Viceroy Bali is located just five minutes leisurely drive from Ubud. Situated on the slopes of the Petanu valley near the village of Nagi, the hotel and villas enjoy unparalleled views of the dramatic river gorge, and the forested slopes and terraced paddy fields beyond.The Viceroy Bali’s CasCades restaurant has already firmly established itself to be a popular choice for those living around Bali, although for those staying in-house – intimate room service is a must. The Lembah Spa has been created by some of Switzerland’s most prominent spa specialists to ensure a truly holistic spa experience, concentrating on whole body wellness by placing as much emphasis on health and meditation, as it does on relaxation and beauty.Get into the true romantic spirit of Ubud by making The Viceroy Bali the choice for your dining, spa or getaway ‘tête-à-tête’.

The Viceroy Bali, T: 62-361-971-777 F: 62-361-970-777 www.theviceroybali.com

The Oberoi Bali
Romance Redefined

This beachside haven offers a complete Balinese experience, filled with serenity, hospitality and tropical beauty. Discover all that is serene and mystical about Bali at The Oberoi; a wonderfully secluded cluster of luxury villas and lanais set in 15 acres of tropical gardens on Seminyak Beach. Built in traditional Balinese style, you can relax and get into the mood of love in truly fabulous settings that celebrate your privacy with charming thatched roof villas, private pools, unique garden bathrooms, and exquisite interiors featuring Balinese art. Enjoy heavenly views from the swimming pool that looks out at the Indian Ocean. Oberoi Spas by Banyan Tree provide a serene and truly unforgettable experience of pure pampering and relaxation in exquisitely beautiful surroundings, using holistic therapies and massages that combine the very best of Eastern and Western practices. Expert in the use of Ayurvedic, Aromatherapy and traditional Western techniques, teams of highly skilled and trained therapists are handpicked for the resort from the Banyan Tree Spa Academy, Phuket. Oberoi Spa recipes feature only the finest natural ingredients, often local to the resort. The Oberoi Bali is committed in remaining true to the Asian tradition of respect for the environment. Try the packages for couples and pamper yourself this February. This is one of Bali’s original leading resorts, and is made for love, romance and all that the Bali sunsets and twinkling stars evoke…. tropical delights.

Contact The Oberoi Bali on T: 62-361-736361 W: www.oberoibali.com

Pura Santrian
An Intimate Alternative on Sanur Beach

This gorgeous resort sits on the gentle coastline of Sanur, famed for its breathtaking sunrises, and offers a reposed alternative to the hustle and bustle of Kuta and Seminyak. This is Bali at its hospitable best, with renovated facilities that exceed any expectations of a tropical hideaway on a stunningly beautiful island. This is a family owned and operated resort, which reflects the renowned Balinese hospitality and warmth of spirit that often seems forgotten in so many of the modern properties of a flourishing Bali. It is here that each guest will find a secure and attentive sojourn amongst frangipanis, flowing waters and ponds, as well as cool wood and stone structures against a stunning Indian Ocean backdrop. Who could ask for more?

A Thai Valentine
Well, a hungry gourmand might. In that case, one of the two restaurants will be sure to appease any esurient appetite. The Mezzanine was recently relaunched under the skilled Thai hands of Chef Supachai Lamtaisong to great acclaim. Chef Supachai can now boast the only authentic Thai restaurant in Sanur, much to everyone’s delight. Having travelled the world to appease the growing demand in Thai cuisine, Chef Supachai now finds himself enchanting the local, expatriate and international diner through many of his exquisite dishes. Choose from Yam Woon Sen Salad (prawns and mixed chicken flavoured hot and sour) or Gai Hor Bai Tuey (marinated deep fried chicken breast wrapped in pandanus leaves). As a main, warm things up a little with a colourful Thai curry, such as Gaeng Kiew Wan Neua Rue Gai (green curry w/beef or chicken mixed w/basil leaves & eggplant), or indulge in the Hoi Malaeng Phu Ob Mor Din-Ruam mit Talay Yang (mussels seasoned w/kaffir lime leaves, galanga, lemon grass & coriander baked in a clay pot with assorted vegetables in an oyster sauce). All of the aforementioned are complimented by one of the many wines from a very well stocked in-house cellar.

Perfect for a spicy valentine dinner, to warm things up a little! The Mezanine opens daily from 7pm.

Cocktails & Massages
During the day, dine beneath a canopy of cooling wood and Palimanen stone- pillars poolside at the Beach Club Restaurant as a fresh ocean breeze caresses the scenery, and whets the appetite. The menu is wholesome, varied and will satisfy all tastes. Over at the pool, order a lazy cocktail at the sunken bar and get into the holiday swing of pure indulgence as the Bali sun kisses your shoulders. Then, why not finish the perfect day at the impressive spa, and indulge yourself from an array of treatments such as; a Balinese Massage, an Aromatherapy Massage, Foot Reflexology or the sublime Healing Massage, all reasonably priced and lasting an hour each. There are also spa packages that last from a couple of hours to five hours for a couple to while away the afternoon in sheer unadulterated, romantic bliss.

Weddings
The Puri Santrian also offers wedding organisation, and can rouse the imagination of each wedding party by an out to sea ceremony from one of its moored pontoons. During the day, these very pontoons are the epitome of laziness with a couple of sun-loungers and guests lolling waterside.The Puri Santrain in truly a gem of a surprise in gentle Sanur, and has definitely earned its right to be ‘the intimate alternative’.
T: 62-361-288009 F: 62-361-287101

What Lies Beneath

breathing underwater isn’t as easy as it looks. however, while there are indeed a lot of things to master before you are allowed to dive in open waters, the view of what lies beneath is worth all of the hard work

Just call me Bea,” said Beate Goldschmidt, the Bali-based dive instructor from Habitat H20. My initial training, on a one-to-one basis with Bea, took place at a quiet swimming pool in Seminyak. My mood was strangely alternating between anxiety, eagerness and jittery excitement, but I was heartened by Bea’s enthusiasm and professional reassuring manner. We began on terra firma with an orientation session, in which I was familiarised with the hand signals and taught basics such as how to equalise my ears, clear my mask of water and recover a lost regulator – the thing that divers breathe through.

I have been snorkelling most of my adult life, but I have only just become a scuba diver. You would have thought that my enjoyment of donning fins, mask and snorkel, and skimming the surface like a UFO pilot looking down on another planet would have enticed me to venture further.

Living in Indonesia and not learning to dive is the equivalent of being given a beautifully packaged birthday present but never breaking through the wrapper to uncover the magic beneath the surface.

The 3.1 million square kilometres of Indonesia’s territorial waters are home to an estimated 10-15 percent of the world’s coral reefs and the greatest marine biodiversity on the globe. This magnificent ecosystem flourishes with more than 6000 species of life. I was guilty of dispassion; I had lived in Indonesia for 11 years and merely dipped my toe into this underwater paradise.

It was time to do something positive, so I enrolled for the Open Water Diver course. And I trusted my survival training with Bea. Hailing from the Black Forest in Germany, Bea started her diving practice 17 years ago in the cool lakes of her homeland. Her passion brought her to Bali in 2000, and it wasn’t long before she had set up her own mobile dive business, known as Habitat H20, in which she takes clients all over the island with full use of the facilities at the many dive centres around the coast. She explained, “This includes use of the compressors to fill the tanks, and going out with the charter dive boats or the local fishermen. I also arrange rental of dive gear if required, as well as accommodation for my guests when I take them on overnight stops or dive safaris.”

As a diver and dive instructor, Bea always emphasises the vital importance of respecting and protecting the coral reefs. After all, the whole point of going deep underwater is to enjoy these beauties, not to destroy them.

After learning the basic theory, it was time to gear up into a wet suit with a tank on my back and practice my new skills − which included mastering neutral buoyancy along with the mystifying phenomenon of breathing underwater – in the pool, thereby ensuring that all of my initial mistakes would be made in safe surroundings.

I had been a bit scared that I might forget to breathe but with the technique effortlessly accomplished, together with various safety exercises and emergency procedures, I was ready to hit the open water. For this, Bea’s driver took us to Padang Bai, and the 90-minute journey gave us the opportunity to work on some of the theory in preparation for the multiple choice exam, which I would later have to sit in order to qualify for my licence. Arriving at the dive centre, we donned our gear, boarded a traditional jukung fishing boat and headed out to the beautiful Blue Lagoon. I felt a bit daunted at the prospect of rolling backwards off the edge of the boat, James Bond style, with a tank on my back, but I just went for it and was surprised – once more – at how easy it was. Despite the weights around my waist, my inflated vest kept me buoyant in the water and I was barely aware of the tank.

At first I could barely take in the scene. I was thinking too much about the strange Darth Vader-like sound emanating from the mouthpiece. It was only me! When I looked around, I felt just like the alien UFO pilot who has finally donned breathing apparatus and penetrated the barriers into a new world. I was no longer watching the movie; I had now swum into the set. The reef was teeming with psychedelic underwater creatures and extraordinary coral. With Bea constantly at my side continually checking that all was well, I swam through clouds of ultraviolet fish daubed with splashes of luminous orange. I saw a blue spotted stingray, an octopus, and a huge puffer fish skulking in the shadows. I gawped at markings reminiscent of wallpaper, soda bubbles, printed fabrics and traditional batik. I even saw a fish in a leopard-print coat and soon I began to spot the cleverly camouflaged creatures hiding in the reef crevices.

The coral was like an exotic vegetable garden boasting white-stemmed asparagus, juicy Chinese mushrooms, purple-sprouting broccoli, succulent lady’s fingers and the finest globe artichokes. Awestruck by the abundance of brilliance and life, I mused on how the denizens of the reef could be so vivid in their imagery. It was like looking through a kaleidoscope of incessantly changing patterns and colours; as if God had taken a paint brush, dipped it in a rainbow and splattered every creature. It was a reminder of the beauty and splendour of creation and I suddenly felt very humble. I was hooked!

Three more dives followed over the next couple of days, together with “classroom” instruction from Bea on the all-important theory, which led to me passing my test and achieving the internationally-recognised Open Water Diver certification. Clearly, the underwater world is now my oyster!

Beate Goldschmidt, PT. habitat-h2o Diving, T: 0812 363 8529,
www.dive-bali.de

Outer Spice at Raja's

authentic balinese cuisine served in a fine dining setting is a rarity on the island; even rarer is one run by an australian chef and serving exclusively halal dishes. no, we’re not kidding you. this is raja’s

I was still teary-eyed from the freshly prepared sambel embe – handmade in front of me on an elegant Jenggala-made rectangular mortar – I had greedily consumed just moments before when the food tray came. “Here comes the duck,” I thought. To be honest, I wasn’t excited in the beginning. Despite being a duck fan, I had never had a mesmerising bebek betutu. The ones I had had before never really wowed me. However, I knew this one was going to be very different as soon as the wrapper was opened. The steam came out dancing cheekily as if knowing the aroma that it had just released was going to hit a homerun.

After staring at the multiple-spice-covered duck for about an eternity, the reflection from the knife and fork effortlessly cutting into the meat woke me up. Before I knew it, I was served a big chunk of the meat. Dining with the person who runs the restaurant, Darren Lauder, I thought of warning him by saying, “I’m sorry, please don’t think I’m crazy, but I’m about to eat a whole duck in front of you.”

Thankfully, I had second thoughts: Maybe I shouldn’t say something like that. Nobody takes a whole-duck-eater seriously. So instead, I said, “Enjoy your duck,” while at the same time making sure I had the bigger share of the portion.

In a nutshell, the duck was nothing like others I had had before. It was tender, tasty and addictive. I could go on and on about the duck, but the truth is that the whole dining experience at Raja’s was just as top notch.

The sambel embe burnt the right spots in my mouth I had to ask for a second portion. The soup tasted as delicious and clear as water after a whole night of drinking. And the small platters of traditional Balinese appetisers (rayunan pengawit Bali sane kasub) brought back memories from my childhood in Lombok.

“Yes, there are similarities between Balinese cuisine and that of Lombok, but not with other Indonesian cuisines such as Javanese which tends to be more sweet,” explained Darren, who is the executive chef of Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa where the restaurant is located.

He went on, “Balinese cuisine doesn’t use as much sugar and coconut. They are not prominent in their cooking process. Instead, Balinese cuisine uses a lot of freshly ground spices and herbs. They use the pestle and mortar to extract the oil, not the juices, from them and use the oil to marinate the meat and then cook them together. So it’s in reverse from the Indian cooking method where the spices are roasted first before the grinding and marinating process.”

A native of Australia, Darren received his formal kitchen training in his home country. Despite having done stints in kitchens in far flung corners of the world like the Middle East, Nagoya, Japan, and Santiago de Chile, the affable chef wasn’t always this knowledgeable about the gastronomy of our beloved island.

“Before I came to Bali, I thought the food here would be more like that of Thailand with a lot of curry, lemongrass, spices and ginger,” he admitted. Then as soon as he landed two and a half years ago, he was immediately given the task to transform what was originally a seafood eatery into a fine dining restaurant serving authentic Balinese cuisine.

“Was it as scary as when you were about to jump off a plane for the first time?” I asked. The Sagittarian daredevil laughed and recalled, “It was definitely challenging. It was a big learning curve for me.”

The first piece of the Raja’s puzzle was getting the recipes. “I invited my staff to bring recipes from their homes, the favourite traditional recipes of their families, and cook them how they’re supposed to be cooked. Not a la carte them or change anything,” he explained. “This was for me to learn the concept of Balinese cooking.

I didn’t go showing them how to cook it because it’s their own home cooking. So on my part, it was about having a lot of faith in my staff to teach me first how things were done, so I could learn how each dish was supposed to taste, and then after that, we took the items apart and I taught my staff how to present these dishes in a modern, fine dining, a la carte-style.”

The whole process took some eight months of hard work, which included intensive research through going around the island tasting foods from the small warungs at the side of the streets of the smallest villages in search of even more rare authentic recipes.

“A lot of the traditional things we are doing in our kitchen are now lost. One example is our timbungan (referred to as timbungan be kambing on the menu, it is spiced minced lamb, baked in bamboo shelves and carved on the table) which isn’t practiced anymore,” he pointed out.

Later, I found out that my duck, too, came to fruition from long hours of kitchen work. “The duck is imported from Australia. This is because the meat is more tender and tastier than the local ducks. Then it was marinated for six hours in 16 different spices before being slowly baked in a low-heat oven for at least six hours,” explained Darren.

“Impressive,” I thought feeling slightly less guilty about having just eaten one whole duck. “But why don’t you have babi guling on your menu?” I asked.

“Because we’re a 100-percent-halal restaurant” was his answer.

My surprised expression must’ve been apparent to him as he immediately added: “It was another challenge because pork is a big part of Balinese cuisine and when we opened the restaurant it was difficult to source halal produce in Bali. But Raja’s kitchen is independent from the other kitchens in the hotel. Everything goes straight to Raja’s kitchen and all the meats and vegetables are processed there.”
The 60-seat restaurant’s kitchen is manned by six staff, two of which are female, and all work in harmony with the waiting staff that embody the elegance of the restaurant. They know their products very well. Ask any of them about any dish on the menu and they’ll happily take you through it. I couldn’t help but observe how Darren watchfully yet subtly oversaw everything that was going on that evening. He knew every single garnish that was supposed to be served with each dish, and where and how they were supposed to be served. Therefore, it came as no surprise to me that Darren and his team won The Best Service Award in the recent Tri Hirta Karana Awards 2009, which also saw Darren – who also holds the position as vice president of Bali Culinary Professionals – being given a gold medal.

As it got darker, the atmosphere at the restaurant became more chic. The contrast illuminated the many intricate carvings that adorned Raja’s outside dining area. The one inside is perhaps brighter but no less of a treat for the eyes. It’s graceful but comfortable. Gorging on my cendol manis (rice dumplings with coconut milk and palm sugar) I shamelessly asked Darren one last question,
“How many ducks do you prepare each day?”

“Three or four only. That’s why we recommend our guests order beforehand.”
And there went my dream of having two ducks in one evening.

Raja’s, Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa, Nusa Dua,
Lot North 4, T: 0361 771 210, www.nusaduahotel.com;
only open for dinner, closed on Tuesdays

East Javenture

when you have the dawning realisation that bali has become too claustrophobic and you are in urgent need of a little trip, east java has a few precious geological gems

The first step to an awesome Java adventure is getting to Java in the first place. Thankfully, this just might actually be the easiest leg of a modest journey.

The beginning of our trip is marked by an early morning arrival at the central bus station known as Terminal Ubung. A little windowed booth in the middle of the station is staffed by uniformed employees who can direct passengers to one of the many buses loitering in the station. If that’s too difficult, there are plenty of men hustling the bus station ready to direct you to a bus in order to graft a little commission from a bus driver.

The bus route to Gilimanuk takes a breezy three and a half hours along a road that hugs most of Bali’s South-West coast. Before you know it, you’re at the Gilimanuk bus station, which is conveniently next door to the ferry port. A short walk, a mere Rp. 33,000, and a ten-minute wait later you’re on a vessel that creeps over treacherous currents of the Bali Strait to your next waypoint, Banyuwangi.

Despite Banyuwangi’s rich history as the last Hindu kingdom in Java and a territory of Bali, there’s really not much to gawk at. The roads are lined with concrete mosques and other residential and industrial structures, with intermittent scatterings of agriculture. Evidence of the large Hindu community that inhabits this city is scarce. The best thing to do is check in at a hotel and knock back some cold bottles of Bintang at a pool in preparation for the first big item on the East Java itinerary: Ijen.

The Ijen volcano complex is made up of a group of stratovolcanoes within a large caldera. The high plain contains 17 individual peaks consisting of active and extinct volcanoes. The largest of these is Mount Merapi, which, confusingly enough, shares the same name as two other volcanoes in Indonesia. But the real jewel of this plethora of geological activity is the Ijen crater itself. Within the wall of this vast crater lays the world’s largest highly acidic lake that stretches an entire kilometre from bank to bank.

The actual trek to the crater lake starts at about 3am when you jump into a hired car. The drive itself is about an hour and a half long (over some road that can easily be described as off-road) and takes you to the base of the volcano. From there it’s a moderately easy two-hour trek along a wide beaten path to the rim of the crater.

Once atop the rim, all exhaustion from the hike is delayed by a brilliant display of an epically giant bowl filled with liquid jade surrounded by rocky mountains.

Breathtaking views and geological wonders aside, Ijen also offers an industrial curiosity only seen where labour and life is relatively cheap. Men act as human mules to haul up to 100-kilogram loads of sulphur up to the rim from the bottom of the crater then several kilometres down. The miners use a stick of bamboo with two baskets attached which leaves a permanent groove of bone and muscle on their backs. They work in plumes of noxious sulphur without any respiratory protection and consequently have eyes red with irritation.

Once descended into the crater, everything is barren rock and life ceases to exist in such a hostile environment. Walking down into the crater takes care and patience – the path is steep and a moment of carelessness can easily lead to a fatal fall. If it weren’t for the respirator I packed, I most likely would have had to retreat from the sulphuric plumes of gas that turn away most hikers.

At the bottom, pipes spew both smoke and molten sulphur as if they were directly plugged into a fiery hell churning below your feet.

After an epic mountain adventure, it’s sometimes best to detach yourself by seeking completely different geography. I did this by eating at the beach in Blimbingsari where a collection of little warungs serve fresh grilled fish much like they do in Jimbaran.

With my protein level replenished thanks to some tasty fish, it was time to rehabilitate a worn out body by pre-emptively drinking more beer in the hotel pool as a precursor to a train ride to Malang early next morning.

As the crack of dawn descends upon me, morning prayers from nearby mosques welcome the morning silence. The single class train from Banyuwangi to Malang (and everywhere in between) leaves the station at 5:30am. Tickets are cheaper than dirt and the empty train looks like it’s going to be a comfortable journey with an entire booth to myself.

After about four stops, I couldn’t be more wrong. The train quickly swells with people and I’m instantly crammed in like a poor little sardine – for eight hours.
Vendors stroll up and down the train, trying to sell you everything from tofu to newspapers to lighters. Smokers fill the passenger cars with pungent streams of kretek smoke, and only small windows open to bring much anticipated fresh air at the whim of wind gusts. It soon becomes apparent that the best way to cope in that train is to hang out the constantly open doors with the cool breeze flowing as Javanese landscape whizzes by.

As the Malang station approaches, a Herculean feeling of relief flows through my entire body. Finally off that train, I hop on a becak (bicycle rickshaw) to a hotel to wash off my train-marinated body. The rickshaw struggles along and I instantly fear for the cardiac health of my very senior becak driver.

Malang is a collection of typical Indonesian cityscape, military installations, and Dutch colonial-era buildings. The cool temperature makes it instantly obvious why the Dutch flocked to Malang and their contributions can be seen everywhere. Colonial lampposts, bridges, and homes give the city a very distinct flavour. All places of interest can be toured on becak, which gives an almost austere feeling of modern colonialism.

Mount Bromo is a short two and a half hour drive by car from Malang. It is but one of the 21 peaks of Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park. The Tengger caldera itself is a remnant of a giant volcano where five younger volcanoes have sprouted up in a sea of sand. South of the Tengger complex lies mount Semeru, the tallest mountain in Java and in a state of near-constant eruption.

Mount Pananjakan is usually the first place to go when visiting the park. The touristy vantage point is easily accessible by car and only requires a mere ten-minute walk before you are able to overlook the entire Tengger Volcano Complex.
After Pananjakan, it’s a short drive to the sand sea (laut pasir) located within a cliff-enclosed bowl. The sand sea is flat and desolate: other then sparse grassy patches and the occasional shrub, it is completely featureless. It is essentially a black sand desert in the middle of jungle.

As the vehicle begins to approach the temple, which sits next to the entrance to Bromo, a gathering of cars appears in the distance. Suddenly you find yourself surrounded by a small swarm of horsemen eager to show off their skills. Upon arriving at the car park, the horse guides approach you and offer rides on their horses to the base of the concrete staircase that leads to the peak. You pass a large Hindu temple and plenty of horses on the way and it almost seems surreal, as if you’re passing by some alien temple on the moon with a bunch of colourful cowboys riding around you.

The cement stairway that leads to the top of the volcano rim looks misleadingly easy; but it is 250 steps of strenuous stairs that torture the thighs. At the peak, drink sellers are ready to quench your thirst amidst clouds of sulphur radiating from a large breach at the centre of the crater. Up there, you’re at the mercy of the wind, and when it’s being disagreeable, expect to experience the acrid taste of sulphur burning down your olfactory organs.

When the wind finally relents and blows in your favour, Bromo treats you to massive views of the surrounding caldera edge and the young peaks of juvenile volcanoes.

The view is surreal, as if you’re looking at a postcard. It’s both breathtaking and overwhelmingly condescending, which is not necessarily a bad thing in this case.
When you’ve taken in all the epic scenery possible for the average human being, Surabaya is a civilised three-hour drive away. Being the second largest city in Indonesia, Surabaya is a vast urban sprawl that serves as an important port and commercial centre. The city also has multiple daily flights back to Bali, so I end my little journey where I started.

what to bring

1. Good hiking shoes with decent tread
2. Warm jacket and clothes
3. Respirator with gas cartridges for acid gases (available at Ace Hardware)

where to stay

1. Mirah Hotel
   Jl Yos Sudarso, no. 28 Tanjung, Klatak, Banyuwangi
   T: 0333 420 600
   E: info@mirrahhotel.com
2. Hotel Helios
   Jl. Pattimura, no. 37, Malang
   T: 0341 362741

Pullquote:
“Within the wall of this vast crater lays the world’s largest highly acidic lake that stretches an entire kilometre from bank to bank.”-

Touched by Love

love is a verb. love heals. and who deserves more love than ourselves? and well, our loved ones. como shambhala estate and tea tree spa let you love yourself and others not only from the outside, but also from within

como shambhala estate

the look
Designed by Cheong Yew Kuan, the estate is a vast wellness compound swathed in all of nature’s elements. Located on hilly and grassy terrain, surrounded by the holy Ayung River, the energy of the property really resonates the moment you step foot on the grounds of the estate.

The spa is aptly named Ojas, a Sanskrit word meaning “essence of life”, alias a life-giving force. Sunken in a valley-esque location on the estate, the descending steps leading to the spa are straddled by two infinity pools.

A huge circular fountain centrepiece greets you as soon as you make your way down. Water (in all its sensory qualities) plays a major role at this place;
it is, after all, the most healing element Mother Nature has to offer.
the touch

COMO Shambhala promotes a holistic approach to wellbeing, meaning that you don’t come in for “merely” a spa treatment, but a complete systematic therapy programme, modified according to every individual’s needs. I came in for a relaxation programme, which started out with a morning dip in the estate’s Vitality Pool guided by a trained aqua-therapist. This pool is equipped with water-jets that have been constructed to provide exacting treatments, which means it is also beneficial for pain and fatigue relief, including jet lag and hangovers (yes, there IS a cure!).

A 90-minute signature massage (and inevitable ten-minute power nap) followed after the hour-long aqua therapy. The massage therapist, Chandra, used the power of her fingers, knuckles, wrists, elbows and forearms; quite a fulfilling touch for a massage. Also, it was a full-body approach, meaning everything from my scalp to my pinkie-toe was pampered, coddled and kneaded.

The touch was that akin to an iron, and as if my body were rumpled sheets that needed sprucing up from all the wrinkles, muscle wrinkles, that is.

the ingredients
As my treatment was one meant for relaxation, COMO Shambhala used ylang-ylang essential oils to smoothen out my knots.

the exceptional
COMO Shambhala Estate is the epitome of the term self-improvement. It’s the place to truly fall in love all over again with oneself, not only through pampered indulgence, but also through a proactive self-enhancement approach. For example, COMO Shambhala has a psychiatrist, nutritionist, Ayurvedic doctor and trained yogis and pilates coaches on duty, available on-call according to your treatment programme.

COMO Shambhala Estate,
PO Box 54, Ubud, T: 0361 978 888,
cse.comoshambhala.bz

tea tree spa

the look
Nestled in a quiet corner of the Kuta shoreline, Tea Tree Spa is home to a sprawl of cosy floating pavilions, all facing the ocean and interconnected by wooden bridges set among a beautiful garden, each housing a treatment room.

The couple’s treatment room contained two massage beds and a lofty bathtub, filled with red swirls of floating hibiscus flowers. There is an outdoor wooden patio facing the beach where cushy lounge sofas are arranged for the preparatory foot scrub and relaxation session prior to the four-course couples treatment.

the touch
Starting off with a de-stressing foot scrub on the outdoor patio, the therapists were very warm people and the aura was truly that of a romantic couples retreat. This foot-friendly interlude gave time for him and I to talk and connect in a relaxed environment.

A full body scrub followed inside the treatment room, where soothing background music filled the space and aromatic candles intensified the aura of ardour.

After the body scrub, we were granted a private session of quality time alone in the room, where a warm flower bath was prepared, complete with massage oils. The therapists told us to call them back in the room when we were ready for the next treatment, which was a full body massage.

Aside from the intimate connection inevitably felt by him and I, this part of the treatment is objectively the perfect ending to an intimate journey.

The bodyworkers were very thorough with tending to each tension-prone area of the body, focusing on the upper back, shoulder blades, lower back, shins and feet.
Their method of caress was somewhat shiatsu-like, with the therapist climbing up on the beds and using their standing force to further deliver a firmer – yet still gentle – massage.

the ingredients
I chose the rose milk body scrub, meant to tone, smooth and give the body a fragrant allure, and peppermint and lemongrass massage oil, meant to relax and balance the mind and body, whereas my partner chose the ground coffee body scrub, beneficial for getting rid of dead skin cells and cleansing that extra bit of grime from the body.

the exceptional
Known for its economical alternative for holiday accommodation, this Holiday Inn Resort is no different, and the Tea Tree Spa is definitely good value for your money. The location of the Spa and warm service of the staff are worth mentioning. Their selection of body scrubs is also remarkable, so you can customise and mix and match products according to the specific needs of your mind and body.

Tea Tree Spa Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali, Jl. Wana Segara, no. 33, Tuban, T: 0361 755 577