Minggu, 18 Oktober 2009

Oasis of Style

the streets of Legian, Kuta are hardly synonymous with discreet luxury, the grinding traffic, over-zealous hawkers, tasteless bars and ghost-town restaurants immediately dispel any notion of stumbling across even the slightest hint of five star pampering in this part of town

oasis of style

With this Kuta cliché firmly in mind it comes as something of a (very welcome) surprise to discover one of Bali's best spas tucked away off the main drag of Legian. Owners Michelle Tanaja and Jimmy Gunawan (of Villa De Daun fame) and interior designers Zohra Boukhari have painstakingly concocted one of the island's most beautiful beautification havens with DaLa Spa, (Jl Legian, T: 0361 755 728) and on entering the premises you can see the devotion and attention to detail just dripping from the walls.

Each of the seven treatment rooms represent seven different exotic flowers, continuing the theme of DaLa (a literal translation from Sanskrit being 'leaf') and each of the rooms has its own character and ambience, perfectly matched to the nature of your treatment. To try out this 'ambience to therapy' matching theory we chose the Tutti Fruity spa (in the funky Cattlieya room) for one half of the reviewing team whilst the remaining two of us found ourselves ushered into the grandiose Ixora room for the Royal Wedding Ritual, the title being perhaps a little premature considering we are in the early stages of dating but the treatment itself being utterly conducive to some serious romantic indulgence.

Once the privilege of royal brides in the ancient palaces of Central Java in the days building up to the wedding event, this two-and-a-half hour wedding treatment is the last word in romantic spa indulgence. Everything from the dark, subtle red hues and hypnotic background music to the highly experienced and professional therapists make for an unforgettable feast for the senses. After a rose petal foot wash the ritual begins with a sixty minute Balinese massage using essential aromatic oils of your choice before the highlight of the treatment, the Javanese lulur exfoliation. Using a very traditional Javanese paste of turmeric, sandalwood and rice powder the healing nature of the ingredients is left to soak into and replenish the skin before a hydrating natural yoghurt polish removes any trace evidence of the turmeric and brings you back to life.

Next comes the delightful seven-flower milk bath, which handsomely recreates the Javanese passage of rights to marriage as the bride to be is bathed by her parents. With no parents in sight (mercifully) it is left to the suitor to take charge of the cleansing duties and earn some well-deserved brownie points along the way…

Window to The World

'There was a time, not so long ago when most foreign artists visited Bali in search of an exotic side of the tropical island. Now, however, some modern and contemporary artists have also made Bali their permanent home and their creations touch Bali in quite a different way'

artOne of the most interesting in the matter is Peter Dittmar. His latest exhibition at Tony Raka Gallery (Jl Raya Mas Ubud, T: 0361 781 6785) is a good occasion to ponder about the way Eastern philosophical concepts and meditative approaches have impacted on the 'abstract' conscience of resident artists from the West.

At first sight, Peter Dittmar's paintings might look like yet another kind of geometric abstraction, similar to Malevitch and the Bauhaus masters. But, looking closer one ponders - why are the color windows so regular, so judicially focused on an invisible centre, and why the tonal gradation of hues? This is not conventional abstraction. Or rather, it is of a peculiar kind of 'spiritual abstraction'. Here one should keep in mind that the fact a piece is abstract does not mean that it carries no message. The great pioneers of abstraction of the early 20th century (Kandinsky, Mondrian and Malevitch) were all enthralled by philosophical and mystical concerns, with theosophy as their lead. Abstraction, to those artists, was the visual formulation of a spiritual quest, exactly as it is to Peter Dittmar. Yet Peter Dittmar's spiritual quest is not rooted in theosophy, it is instead rooted in Hindu-Buddhist cosmology, with which the artist came into contact in the 1960s, as part of the Eastern ideology then entering the minds of Western youth in revolt.

In Hindu- Buddhist cosmology, the world or macrocosm is in perpetual motion, and man, as a microcosmic component of this world, can achieve release only by adapting his ethics and deeds to its cosmic rhythm. Art is construed as one of the mediums in which to do so. Two paths have traditionally been followed in this regard. One is to adapt expression of the cosmos, understood as an 'expanding whole', the other is to reduce it to 'a synthetic oneness-cum-void'. The first path, that of India and Southeast Asia, involves the translation of cosmic experience into a multiplicity of gods and symbols, and the second, that of Japanese Zen Buddhism and other similar Chinese and Korean traditions, involves its translation in a minimalist manner.

art

Peter Ditmaar's spiritual leanings took him to Japan, where he immersed himself in the philosophies of Zen Buddhism, but it is in Bali – with its over-flowering of symbols – that he eventually settled, to pursue, in a Zen inspired way, his quest for the 'Oneness-cum-Void'. For many years, Dittmar has produced calligraphic paintings, epitomized by a strong, swift thrust of the brush that withers into a tail. Capturing the abstract essence of the synthetic line that has long characterized Far Eastern calligraphy and painting, they aimed to visualize cosmic motion in its successively expanding and shrinking phases. In his new series of works, spontaneous expression has been replaced by geometric regularity; scarcity of colour by an exploration of tone. Yet, a closer look reveals continuity. The artist still aims to evoke concentration and synthesis, but he now achieves this through the stillness of careful tonal gradations of colour enclosed in regular geometric squares, instead of through the 'thrust and stop' energy that characterized the calligraphic line in his previous works. This stylistic shift corresponds to a new philosophical accent. Whereas his previous calligraphic works symbolized the cosmic energetic process as it surges and then comes to rest, his current abstract geometric paintings symbolize the encounter of the beholder with the absolute stillness of the cosmic Void. The squares, which the artist calls 'colour windows' also consciously evoke Hindu-Buddhist cosmological symbols. Hung individually, with their central points, or in groups of four, they conjure up the notion of the Mandala (world). As diptychs, they call to mind the idea of cosmic dualism and complementarities of opposites, and as triptychs, the same idea with its middle intermediary point included. In all these works, the viewer is led to the central focal point through a very learned application of geometric proportions (Peter Dittmar says he follows the golden section, also known as divine proportions) combined with a sophisticated play of tonal colouration that takes us ever deeper into the ultimate Stillness/Void. Peter Dittmar, a respected artist in his country of origin, Germany, and in Australia as well as in Bali, where he spends half of his time, shows us that abstraction is indeed alive and well. His work - meditative, introspective and evocative, illustrates a latter day meeting point of Eastern philosophies and Western cultural leanings.

The Spirits of Galungan & Kuningan

it starts suddenly in the middle of the night while people are deep asleep it sounds like the wailing of a milk-lusting baby but the wailing soon dies out into a whine of despair and a last shriek of death...

Other similar squealing invades the silence of the night...These are not babies, but pigs being killed at the same time, all over the island, on the 'day of slaughter' or 'penampahan', the day preceding the Galungan and Kuningan festivals.

Among the many holidays in the Balinese 210-day calendar, the most prominent are undoubtedly those of Galungan and Kuningan, the former on the Wednesday of the Dungulan week and the latter on the Saturday of the Kuningan week.

Due to their frequency (once every seven Gregorian months) these festivals are not celebrated as national holidays, but don't try to do anything between Penampahan Galungan, the day for the slaughter of the pig that precedes Galungan, and Manis Galungan, the day following it or on the Friday preceding Kuningan as everything is closed. People go back to their village of origin to present offerings to their ancestors and village temples.

Unlike most Balinese festivals that celebrate the particular anniversary of a temple and which are scattered across the calendar, Galungan and Kuningan are island-wide holidays. Everywhere you look temples are all dressed up, with batik and white or yellow cloth wrapped around their individual shrines as a sign that they are 'occupied' - meaning the gods are visiting their descendants.

The rituals involved during Galungan and Kuningan are a reminder of the strong ancestry component of the Hindu-Balinese religion. This speaks for the tolerance shown by Hinduism during the process of Indianazation. When it took root in Bali, this religion, instead of throwing away the older traditions (as Christianity and Islam tended to do) integrated elements of ancestral beliefs and natural animism into its corpus, the rationale being that everything, and every belief can be interpreted as 'ray' or as a manifestation of the 'Ultimate Sun' of Surya (Siwa).

The ancestors do not come before being properly 'invited' back home to the island. They are expected to return on the 'Sugihan Jawa' day, when one makes offerings for the welfare of the world. The call is made in familiar language: "Mai jani mulih. Uba yang ngaenang banten. Mai delokin damuh-damuhe", which means: "Please, come back home for a visit. We have prepared you food. Please come and visit your descendants." This is all the more important for 'dead' souls that have not yet undergone the whole cleansing process.

If the dead are still buried in the cemetery, the soul is thought to be still hanging around nearby, provisionally entrusted to the god Prajapati. Thus it has to be handled with special care, and given the right 'punjung' offering, lest it wreak havoc among the living. But if the soul has been cremated and enshrined in the family temple the danger is lessened and the chances are that its influence will be beneficent on each return visit. The language will change, though, to become more formal and religious, and the offering will be different, too: this time it will be a 'saji'.

The visit of the ancestors is expected to last until Kuningan. It is understood that by Kuningan the spirits will have feasted long enough and it will be time for them to go back to their realm of death: another injunction will do: "Mangkin mantuk ke kedituan ," which literally translates,: "Go back over there to your abode of the dead".

Another way to interpret the Galungan and Kuningan festival is that adopted by modern religious officialdom, which is presented as a celebration of the forces of good over evil much as it took place in the mythical past in the victory of the Gods against the evil giant Maya Denawa. Yet it is possible to interpret the story as referring to the 'defeat' of Buddhism over Hinduism sometime toward the end of the first millennium. The fall of Maya Danawa would then symbolize the victory of Hinduism over an attempt at Buddhist reformation. The following is one of the numerous versions of the Maya Danawa story:

Once upon a time, in the kingdom of Bedahulu, there ruled a king by the name of Maya Danawa, strong and famous, the descendant of the seer Kasiapa and the Goddess of the Lakes, Dewi Danu. But Maya Danawa was also full of arrogance and conceit. He said that the truth laid within the self, and, thus, within himself, and would not heed the calls to prayers and offerings issued by Sang Kulputih, the holy priest of Siwa who had made his residence in Besakih, on the slopes of Gunung Agung, in the very place where Batara Putra Jaya (Mahadewa) himself had earlier been installed by the gods of Jambudwipa (India).

Maya Danawa had forbidden temple festivals and offerings, and as a result woes and evils were falling upon Bali at an alarming rate, with crops failing and epidemics raging, a proof of the gods' growing vexation. Thus, it went on, until Sang Kulputih, warned by daily trances, decided to ask for the gods' assistance to defeat Maya Danawa. And so the gods, summoned from Jambudwipa (India) by Pasupati (Siwa), came to Bali to attack the evil king, accompanied by their troops of 'gandrawa' and 'widyadara'. There were all the gods - Wisnu, the Green Lord of the South, Mahadewa, the Yellow Lord of the West, and Iswara, the White Lord of the East.

All had been summoned to destroy the king of evil, under the orders of Indra, the King of the gods. Maya Danawa was helped by troops from all over Nusantara, with regiments of Sasak, Bugis Sumbawa and Madura. But, despite their valour there was not much they could do against the superior forces of the gods and after the fierce encounter with Petemon the king had to flee - to this day his escape route is marked by the name of villages. Maya Danawa tried to flee by walking side-steps (Tampak Siring), and it became the village of Tampaksiring; he then tried to transform into a bird and became the village of Manukaya (from 'manuk' meaning bird); then into a coconut leaf (busung) and it became the village of Blusung. Outskilled, Maya Danawa tried a last ruse. He turned spring water into poison, and the gods, thirsty from all the fighting, drank heartily from the springs and were all killed except Indra. But Indra was not to be outwitted, he stuck two umbrellas into the ground creating the springs of 'Tirta Selukat' (purification water) and 'TirtaEmpul' (the spring water), whose water was then sprinkled to the gods and resurrected them – these sources are to this day a famous pilgrimage in Bali. Maya Danawa tried again to flee, but he was killed by Indra's arrow. His blood became the water of the Petanu river. From that day on, people say, "whoever dares to bathe in the Petanu shall be stricken down by illness, and whoever drinks it shall be poisoned". Thus, the Petanu river, due to his curse has not been used for irrigation purposes until recently.

Maya Danawa's arrogance has had its historical recurrences, which have always ended up in defeat and a new flurry of offerings. But what about the challenges of modernity? How will the Balinese cope with the new Maya Danawas and how does one recognize them and differentiate the reformers from the 'suppressors' of Balinese Hinduism?

Galungan and Kuningan are mainly family oriented events. It is the individual shrines of the households that are the main recipients of offerings and prayers, but there are otherwise no large-scale ceremonies, except on Kuningan when some temple festivals take place, such as the one celebrated on Serangan island. A few days before Galungan the whole island takes a festive allure. Its most spectacular sign are the 'penjor' decorative poles which are set in front of each Balinese compound.

The 'penjor' is an altar of sorts. One should not think that Balinese have such altars or shrines only in temples. Gods, they say, being 'emanations' of 'Embang', or the void, can sit anywhere, and, wherever they are placed people make shrines to address them through offerings. The 'penjor' is actually such a shrine, with its seat at the lower part of a pole. The curved bamboo and its decorative elements are 'additional components, all of which have their symbolic functions.

Some sophisticated Balinese see the 'penjor' as a remaining element of an ancient fertility cult. It is said to represent the dragon 'Anantaboga', a symbol of earth and prosperity ('Anantaboga' meaning unending food) with its head making up the 'shrine' and the tail its extremity. The fertility aspect is emphasized by the food hanging all along the bamboo and at its tip, as well as by the decorative bird. According to the 'Adiparwa' story it was a bird which brought agricultural produces to earth from the abode of the gods. Some 'lamak' have also a 'Cili', which is a symbolic representation of Sri, the goddess of rice.

The 'penjor' is designed to be a living entity. It has as such its three-coloured 'porosan', the symbol of the 'Trimurti' gods, Brahma, Wisnu and Iswara which is put at its furthest point inside the sampian, a wheel-like symbolic representation of the cosmos. As a living being it is also dressed in white and yellow. The coming to life ceremony of the 'penjor' takes place on the morning of 'Galungan' after the completion of the ceremony in the family temple.

The 'penyor' erected on the eve of Galungan stays in place for five weeks until the Buda Kliwon of Pahang. Then it is pulled out, burned and its ashes buried inside the compound in a final endeavor to produce fertility and prosperity.

The Spa at The Balé

Gabriella Semele indulges in two of the most popular spa treatments at The Balé, it’s a tough life...

spa at the baleThe Spa at Nusa Dua's beautiful The Balé villas (Jl Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, T: 775111) lives up to its name as a place of refuge and shelter from the outside world. Minimalist in design, the focus of The Balé is all about pleasing the guest, something they accomplish with ease.

Entering The Spa I was warmly greeted by the specialist staff who told me about their treatments that are a perfect blend of East Asian healing rituals and Western sensibility.

For my first treatment I chose the hot stone massage using heated lava rocks. The rocks are heated to a temperature that is adjusted according to the areas of your body that are being treated. It's quite amazing how long these stones can hold the heat and how effective they were. My entire body was massaged with the stones until I felt all the knots and kinks disappear, then, more hot stones were strategically placed in certain pressure points to aid rejuvenation and help ease stress. This gentle massage is meant to reduce mental tension and improve the spirit, and it worked; not only did I feel terrific, so did my skin.

It also had an effect on my appetite. Luckily I didn't have to go far to get a yummy lunch, right there at the serene Bliss Spa Restaurant offering a healthy menu to compliment your treatments.

Completely satisfied, I decided to come back the next day for more.

If you're anything like me you always have a lot of questions about healing processes and though I've had a quite a few treatments in my time, I've never had a crystal healing massage so this was my next choice.

The crystal healing massage is The Spa's signature treatment (book a minimum of two hours in advance to allow the stones time to be heated). The massage uses semi-precious stones, such as Aventurine, Calcite, Hematite, Carnelian, Jade, Jasper, Lapis Lazuli, Marble, Nephrite, Obsidian, Dumortierite, Rhodonite and Tiger Eye. My therapist Juniari explained that the color of the stones has a significant impact on the healing process; this combined with the heat from the hot stones relaxes the muscles and restores balance to the body and the spirit.

Carefully heated, the crystals have a lovely and somewhat intense heat radiating from them. Juniari seemed to know all my sore spots and worked them with the hot crystals till I felt as if I were melting off the table. By the time the treatment was over I was ready to take on the world.

Virtually bouncing down the steps to the lobby my smile was so big I seemed to attract the attention of some people who were coming in for treatments. "I want what she had," I overheard a woman tell her partner. "Yes you do," I said as I floated by, "yes indeed you do".

The Spa at The Balé is open from 9 a.m to 10 p.m daily.

www.thebale.com

Nu Wave Nusa Dua

From the minute you arrive in the pristine palimanan and Jogya stone-walled lobby of The Balé (Jl Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, T: 0361 775111) you realize this is a place where everything stops. Here is a part of the island that is tranquil, serene and truly removed from the madness of the outside world.

Greeted by a friendly, gracious and quite beautiful staff, you get the feeling that they know who you are and exactly what you want from your stay. After being escorted by my butler Winnie through the beautiful grounds, to my spectacular room, I am already eager to indulge in my welcome massage at the spa, lunch at Bliss café and dinner in the acclaimed Faces restaurant. Winnie gave me a run down of all the fun things I could do while I was staying, with top priority going to the many spa treatments on offer.

Winnie gone and privacy achieved I lost the clothing, opened the patio doors in the bathroom and jumped into the villa pool. My room, number thirty-six (highly recommended), is one of the new deluxe villas overlooking the lagoon and pristine greens of the neighboring Bali Golf and Country Club. It is so beautiful and private that you feel as if you can do whatever you want. All I wanted to do was stay there and relax but the spa was beckoning this new arrival.

The journey to the spa (located behind the lobby) gave me a chance to check out some more of the grounds. The spectacular landscaping and clean, unfussy, contemporary architecture of The Balé and its many linking walkways create an extremely stylish ambience that many an aspiring ‘designer hotel' in Bali could learn a thing or two from.

The welcome massage was sublime but immediately left me wanting more, so pen in hand I booked the hot stone massage and a facial for the next day. Hungry from all my exertions, I decided to have a big lunch in the spa's Bliss restaurant. The menu is made to compliment a number of the spa's treatments. With fresh, clean healthy food it was hard to choose what to sample, finally, I opted for the fresh cucumber soup, ricotta frittata and seared tuna. I felt like a glutton but it all looked so tempting and besides, this is healthy dining, right?

My big lunch knocked me out and all I could think of was getting back to my beautiful villa and relaxing. I stopped by the lobby to choose a film from their extensive collection and headed back to my room to chill out. Big bed, yummy sheets, huge flat screen TV and everything I could want before me, I popped on the movie and sank into a heavenly slumber. Later that evening I woke to a ravenous hunger, and headed to Faces for dinner. A t-bone steak, fries and a Chilean Shiraz was just the culinary relapse I needed after the well-being spa lunch, though, to be honest the portions were huge and I was not able to finish my plate.

Making my way back to the villa I decided that one day, my dream house would have all the same features as my room at The Balé down to the swimming pool that emerges from the bathroom to the sweeping views. This is how I want to live!

the baleMorning came and I could not be bothered to leave my bed. No problem at The Balé, breakfast was one phone call away and before I knew it I was dining on the lounger beside the pool: fresh juices, coffee and a NYC bagel with cream cheese and smoked salmon to satisfy my NYC roots, I was good to go. A quick dip in the pool was enough to motivate me towards the spa for the day's treatments, though I was reluctant to leave my room, after all there was still a bath to be taken in the huge tub, more sun poolside and, well so much I could get up to in my not-so-little sanctuary.

Treatments done and in a total state of bliss, it was time to head back to “real” life… reluctantly I left The Balé, but not before I had signed the visitors' book, ‘I will be back', and said some farewells to the lovely staff who I had got to know in my short stay.

Leaving The Balé was quite a shock; somehow in my short time there I had completely forgotten about the traffic and the hustle bustle of the world outside. No worries, now that I know about this gem of a place I am sure to return.

www.thebale.com

As day turns to night in Nusa Dua so the mood shifts to cocktails at Eight Degrees South in the luxurious ambience of The Conrad Bali Resort & Spa (Jl Pratama, T: 0361 778 788). The soft onshore breeze sweeps through the open front restaurant and alang-alang bales on the beach, lending itself to a perfect martini moment (classic chic is the order of the day here) before we surrendered to the allure of Executive Chef Gary Rosen's Spice and headed upstairs in the resort to the ocean view balcony of arguably Nusa Dua's finest of fine dining establishments. Spice truly is devoted to overt culinary pleasure in every sense, a medley of Middle, Near and Far East recipes with stunning flavours to appease even the most demanding of palates and I had been looking forward to sampling the dinner menu there since I first heard of Rosen's reputation for excellence in the kitchen.

the Spice of life at Conrad Bali Resort & SpaI couldn't restrain myself from ordering the crispy duck with mandarin pancakes, spring onions, cucumber and plum sauce for the first course - there's something irrefutably appealing to applying the finishing touches to your dinner at the table, forming finger length pancakes with tasty duck morsels and refusing to entertain any notion of sharing the finished effort with your dinner guests. With this quality of cuisine I justified (rather weakly) that selfishness can safely be put slap bang next to goodliness when dining at Spice. I hurried myself through the selection process for the second course, as the options were far too appealing to initiate a deliberation process, finally settling on the green tea risotto with wok-seared scallops, delectable nuggets of ocean fresh fare perfectly balanced by the density of the tea- infused Arborio grains. Main courses at Spice fall into three categories – ocean, poultry and bird and land and field but I was scouring the menu for something a little different, a dish that one won't find in too many other restaurants on Bali. My persistent demanding led me to the sautéed veal liver flavoured with cumin and balsamic pan juices matched to perfection with a very fine bottle of Finca Valpiedra Reserva, Rioja 1999.

There was no room for dessert after the richness of the veal livers and the size (this is a big plate, surprisingly so for such a venue that could just as easily skimp on the portioning) so I opted for a single espresso and picked my way home to the ocean facing suite on the fourth floor to lap up the view of the Balinese water garden and expansive swimming pool of The Conrad. Whisky in hand on the balcony, surveying the activity around the hotel grounds one lapses into the sort of lethargic contemplation of the finer things in life, that periodical moment of reflection only ever prompted by indulging in the finer things that life can afford.

Kicking myself the next morning for booking such an early massage (the comfort factor of the beds at The Conrad borders on being a productivity risk) I made my way towards the Jiwa Spa after a reviving breakfast in the club lounge for a protracted Ocean Flow massage. The signature Ocean Flow treatment at The Conrad is designed to ebb away your cares and rebalance the body and mind with a combination of rhythmic full-handed acupressure and combined effects of aromatherapy not dissimilar to the movements of the ocean waves. The spa treatment countered my morning's intake of coffee and sent me back to a rather inactive state of wellbeing as I drifted through the lobby to the waiting limo for a rather inconvenient return to the working week.

Stalking The Wild Barong

Gilded and groomed, worshipped and revered, the sacred Balinese barong may appear well-kept. But truth be told, this wild and wily icon may never be properly house-trained.

barongThe barong—that bushy-tailed, bulging-eyed beast—is one of Bali's greatest cultural hits. As a jet-set visitor to the "Island of the Gods", you know the creature as the winsome hero of the barong dance or as the confounded cause of some interminable traffic snarl. Indeed, you'd be most carefully cloistered in nightclubs, surf breaks, spas or resorts were you not at least once overrun by a boisterous barong procession. Lay aside, for a moment, all plans of beach or bar, and simply succumb to his splendor.

Gong! Gong! Gong! You hear it long before you see it—the throng of barong devotees is headed up by a traveling gamelan orchestra, a crew who thinks nothing of toting half a ton of bronze from one banjar to the next. The scintillating, hypnotic tones build on the approach, captivating all onlookers with a lively solo progression—drums clap, cymbals crash, massive gongs mark the downbeats. Bobbing along with the band are brightly colored umbul-umbul, long bamboo-pole flags sported by boys who can just barely manage them. And behind those, a canopy of satiny umbrellas shades the focus of the mayhem—the mythical, mystical barong.

The barong mask—perhaps a fanciful take on the lion form—features giant, all-seeing eyes, fearsome teeth, wagging tongue and clapping jaw. The beast is crowned in gold filigree and cloaked in a flowing mane of real hair and tinkling bells. More gold and mirrors adorn his shoulders and rump, each supported by a pair of bare shins and the latest in faux-Teva fashion. Every so often, a heated human bearer is relieved of his task as another disappears into the shag. And so goes noble barong, loping along with all the aplomb of the classic clown horse.

As the last of the followers trail off—men young and old, kebaya-clad women bearing offerings and babes, kids awestruck, exhausted and up to no good—a tide of trucks and motorbikes pulls in close behind. Back to Bali, business as usual. All of which leaves you wondering: "What on earth was that?"

The Barong: A Crash Course

A thumb through Lonely Planet informs you that the barong is the ever-watchful guardian of good over evil. To learn more, you shell out Rp50.000 for the local barong dance and watch the drama play out in abridged form.Night falls, guests settle in, gamelan chimes away. And there through the hallowed temple gate pounces Barong. Like an over-sized puppy, he frolics about to the delight of his human followers. All is well and good until—aduh!—enter Rangda, fangs flaring, claws clawing, entrails trailing. After a kidnapping, a grave robbing and lots of good vs. evil dance dueling—just as the Rangda witch surely has the better of our beloved, beleaguered Barong—men dash in with kris daggers. A priest anoints the warriors with water sanctified in Barong's beard. Some glaring lights, some words of thanks and you're off with the bright hope that Barong lives happily ever after. But nothing, of course, is so simple. Most especially not in Bali.

The Many Faces of Barong

Most villages host barongs—sometimes a dozen
or more—hidden away in their temples' inner sanctums. Unlike the secular barongs that work for hire (the Balinese consider these nothing more than fancy theater costumes) temple barongs are sacred, sentient beings. By all reports, sacred barongs live and die, love and lose, and generally protect their village, though it may be in odd and unpredictable ways.Every barong is unique. Sure, there are lots of lions, but no two lions are the same. And then there are tigers, pigs, elephants, eagles, monkeys, dragons and various demons. In point of fact, the rangda witch you saw at the dance is a sort of barong, too

Each barong has its own name, its own family tree, its own endearing foibles. There are young, playful barongs that bound about with abandon, and old, weary barongs that trundle along in their own sweet time. All barongs are wise and magical, but none of them are perfect. Barongs can be rash and rambunctious and a few are known for the odd tantrum. It may be these very imperfections—these nearly human frailties—that make barongs so beloved.

Indeed, barongs are bona fide crowd-pleasers. Kids love them as much as Teletubbies or Power Rangers and will promptly throw a fit if parents don't pack up in pursuit of every passing procession. For grown-ups, barongs are not only holy beings—they may be the most tangible embodiment of niskala, the unseen essence that in today's world is even better obscured by motorbikes and mobile phones. Surely people put as much love and devotion into their barongs as their barongs put into them.

On special occasions, for temple ceremonies or holy days (especially the ten days on the Balinese calendar between Galungan and Kuningan) sacred barongs are let out for a romp. The barong's temple den is opened and aromatic woods are burned before the beast. The smoke, it is said, guides spirits back into the body of barong. As the barong wakes up, he or she is presented with water for bathing, and coffee, before being anointed with incense and frangipani blossoms. If there is a long journey ahead, the barong will be fed his or her favorite food—fried chicken is popular fare. Villagers then file before the barong, make offerings and kneel in prayer.

Before long the barong is moved by the attention and by the stirring tones of gamelan. Suddenly he's ambling out the door, supported by two villagers who have ducked beneath his mane. The villagers march blindly—or are blindly marched?—out the temple gate, down the temple stairs, into the open street and off to who-knows-where.

Good and Evil: A Delicate Balance

So what else, really, is the purpose of the neighborhood barong? Does the barong actually protect his or her village? Perhaps. But beyond the simple perception that barongs wield forces of good over forces of evil is the fuller Balinese understanding that barongs are complex entanglements of the two. Like people, barongs are bottled-up brews of opposing passions: right and wrong, black and white, yin and yang. It just so happens that barongs, who romp freely between seen and unseen worlds, are more potent potions.The key, as with everything Balinese, is to maintain balance. The barong embodies just that, and with a certain flair for drama.

I don't know what to believe. But clearly life is more than meets the eye, and even more so, perhaps, in Bali. Meanwhile, stories of wild and woolly barongs continue to captivate me just as much as the people who live by them.

www.indonesiawild.com

Ubud Botanic Garden

Bali's newest destination is five hectares of tranquil greenery, offering a welcome retreat from the heat and hustle. Landscaped along a natural river gorge, the Garden's paths and stairways lead the visitor on a journey of exploration through cool natural forests, groves and meadows. Three Orchid Houses feature a growing collection next to the Water Lily Pond, already a sanctuary for birds and other wildlife. A Meditation Court, watched over by an ancient banyan tree, provides a place of stillness guarded by carved stone Buddhas.

ubud botanic gardenOther features include a garden of indigenous herbal plants, a Dragon Fruit garden, bamboo groves, pitcher plants, a Titan and Rafflesia, a young orchard of Indonesian fruits and a chocolate and coffee grove. Much more remains to be discovered as visitors wander the shady paths to encounter new surprises around every corner and over every hill. Children love the Maze, and parents can monitor their play from the formal Islamic Garden on the hill above the labyrinth.

Just 1.2 kilometres from Ubud's main road in Kutu Kelod, the Botanic Garden is an important asset for the local community and the tourist industry. Bali has never had such an easily accessible, well kept private park.

Traveling can be hard work. For travelers seeking a refuge from the shops, touts and hot sidewalks, the Garden is an oasis of calm. Tuck a book, a cold bottle of beer and a sandwich into the backpack for a reviving day off under the trees.

Families with young families are happy to find a place where the kids can play safe from traffic. It's so easy to pick up the makings of a picnic from Ubud's Café'8e Moka or DeliCat; strategically placed benches and bales in the Garden offer pleasant nooks for a shared meal al fresco.

Open since June, the Botanic Garden is already becoming an integral part of the community. The trails are popular with early morning joggers who relish a place to work out without dogs and traffic. Individuals carrying yoga mats disappear into leafy corners. Even before the soft opening, a wedding took place on the lawn beside the Great Fountain at the entrance. Local artists are taking advantage of the Garden to paint there; some of the resulting artwork can be seen in the entrance. Once the converted joglo in the chocolate grove opens as a coffee house, a group of young mothers is planning to make it the nucleus for a playgroup.

Garden owners Fauzah and Stefan intend that their creation will become a living educational tool for Bali. As resources become available, they want to offer classes in organic growing, composting, local medicinal plants and environmental awareness. A boule pit is under development, and a volunteer is sought to help create an Orchid Society with the Garden as its base.

Membership to the Botanic Garden Ubud is now available with options for individual, family or Founding Memberships and Corporate Sponsorships. Contact: info@botanicgardenbali.com

Kupu-Kupu Barong - Great Gateway

Making a brave attempt to escape the dreaded routine and find a peaceful getaway, we drive right to the heart of Bali's best nature spot, Ubud. Entering Kupu Kupu Barong, which is located above the valley of the Ayung River, we are surrounded by nature, local villages and the quiet sounds of night. The rice barn (lumbung) style bungalows are located some distance away from one another, giving us the much preferred privacy we are looking for. Stepping into the bungalow, we are welcomed with five-star treats. Beautiful fragrances float from the rose petal strewn bathtub, while the fruit basket and personalized welcome note, have truly make us feel like home.

kupu kupu barongThey have indeed the most comfortable towels and kimonos, not to forget the oh-so comfy bedding and pillows that have us waking up the morning feeling so fresh and rejuvenated. In the light of the morning sun, the breathtaking view outside our bungalows is too good to be true. The unparallel green valley, the sound of the river and clean fresh air combines with delicious breakfast we have at the La View restaurant, give us many a happy moment to remember.

For travelers with the need of a good spa treatment, Kupu Kupu Barong has provided their guests with either Le Spa treatment across the lobby area or a special treatment at mango Tree House, where, nestled high above the mango tree in a traditional Balinese tree house you can experience dreamy treatments.

To help experience the sights and sounds of beautiful Ubud, the resort has prepared Ayung River trekking, which is a day adventure. An experienced resort guide will escort guests to the cave of Goa Gangsar along the Ayung River, winding through the surrounding villages. Cycling is also offered to encourage guests to discoverthe beauty of Bali's ancient temples and all around beautiful scenery.

As we walk down the whole property, we discover that the owners have purposely placed the bungalows amongst green natural habitat and surroundings. Plantations are well maintained and many local people are living in villages within the property. It's a delightful combination of warm hospitality, friendly inhabitants and exquisite panorama. It's a perfect getaway place.

www.kupubarong.com

This month activity

One-day Sommelier Course
October 18

Following on the success of the first (April) and second (June) Three-day Wine Course by Four-time Wine Spectator Award recipient Sommelier Harold Wiesmann, The St. Regis Bali Resort will have a One-day Wine Course on the third Sunday of October. Immerse in a memorable day and delight in a premium six-course degustation dinner paired with excellent wines.The one day programme covers topics like expanding your mind on the difference in red, white, rose and sweet wines and Champagne. In addition, you can also learn all about wine etiquette from selecting and buying good wines based on value compared to price, cellaring, decantation, vinification and more.
Price per person is IDR 3.500.000 nett (for booze and food).

The St Regis Bali Resort, Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot S6 T: 0361 847 8111, www.stregisbali.com/bali

Surf Yoga Goddess Retreats
October 4-11, 17-24, 22-29

Awaken, embrace and celebrate the surf goddess in you! Surf Goddess Retreats is a surf, yoga and spa vacation created especially for women. Each of the surf retreats offer personalised surf lessons for women, revitalising daily yoga classes, decadent spa treatments, a Balinese cultural tour, private villa accommodation, organic meals and small group or individual instruction. This is a perfect activity for beginner surfers or solo women travellers.

PT Jiwa Dewi, Jl. Pengubengan Kauh
For further information check out: www.surfgoddessretreats.com

Flotsam and Jetsam
October 8 - November 2

The sculpture of Balinese artist, Ida Bagus Putu Gede Sutama, mirrors the reality of his home near Sanur Beach. For thousands of years the tides and currents of the Strait of Badung have washed ashore the flotsam and jetsam. As an artist Sutama seeks to transform the mundane into the mysterious with a sparkling smile and enigmatic wink and supplied the villagers with a livelihood tied to the sea and temples. The source of Sutama’s inspiration happens to be one of the most picturesque sights in Sanur, that of the colourful jukung – the triangular sailed outrigger dug-out canoes- that line the beach. Carved in the shape of mythological elephant fish, the same sea, reef and sand imagination that gave birth to these, is like humans, their lives are limited and with time they are lost and broken up and often end up as colourful driftwood on the beach.

Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay, T: 0361 701 010
Exhibition opening: October 8 at 6.30pm - 8pm
Gallery opening hours: 9am - 6pm

Ubud Writers & Readers Festival
Suka Duka: Compassion and Solidarity

October 7-11

Prepare to be moved, entertained and enthralled. The Ubud Writers & Readers Festival is one of the largest and most prestigious literary events in Southeast Asia. This year, more than 80 authors from 25 countries, including 30 of the best established and emerging Indonesian writers, novelists, journalists, bloggers, playwrights, filmmakers, historians and poets converge on Ubud for four jam-packed days of ideas, anecdotes, wisdom and fun. Bask in the brilliance of acclaimed writers, including Nobel Laureate Wole Soyinka, Seno Gumira Ajidarma, Hari Kunzru, Fatima Bhutto, Lloyd Jones, Julia Leigh, Vikas Swarup and NH Dini. So join in and shift your perceptions, tickle your fancy and change your world. (For more information contact: info@ubudwritersfestival.com, www.ubudwritersfestival.com)

Fashion Tendance
October 3

The annual fashion show event organised by the Indonesian Fashion Designers Association (APPMI – Asosiasi Perancang dan Pengusaha Mode Indonesia-Bali) is on again. The fashion designers participating in this year’s event are: Ali Charisma, Agnes Caroline, Angeliqa Wu, Dewi Suarjani, Dwi Iskandar, Eny Ming, Monika Weber, Tude Togog, Oka Diputra and Putu Aliki. They will work in collaboration with a team from the Bali creative community that include interior designers, jewellery designers, architects, graphic designers, product designers and other artists to inspire the Indonesian Fashion Industry. (Balai Raya Ballroom, The Laguna Resort and Spa, Jl. Kawasan Pariwisata, T: 0361 771 327)

Ecstatic Dance and Sacred Song Retreat – with Ellen Watson & Daphne Tse
Mimpi Menjangan Hot Springs Eco-Resort

October 17-24

A retreat for lovers...of life...of song and singing...of dance and dancing! A retreat where you are able to learn how to open your heart and free your voice, connect with your authentic self through sacred song and ecstatic dance. You can soak in natural hot springs, practice restorative yoga and optional healing and massages or spa treatments. (www.movingventures.org, www.balispirit.com)

What's on....

Ships Ahoy

At the end of August, El Aleph, a private luxury charter was launched off Serangan Harbour to an awe inspired crowd. El Aleph brings together traditional Phinisi design and 21st century technology. Beautifully handcrafted in 100-year old teak and ironwood with an attention to detail unmatched by any other Phinisi ever built and decorated with Indonesian artifacts and antiques.

PT Indonet Travel
9A Jalan Raya Petitenget
Kerobokan, T: 0361 735 590

New Restaurant and Deli Abound

The month of September saw Padma introduce two of its newest Food and Beverage Outlets; Taman Ayun Café and Lounge and the Deli. Taman Ayun Café and Lounge is a relaxing venue located in the center of Padma Resort. Verdant tropical garden combined with soothing sound of the wind and a selection of Asian and Western menus. Whilst the Deli is a modern venue with laptops available and Internet access to keep the guests updated with the world while sipping on a coffee, freshly made sandwiches, cakes and ice cream.

Padma Resort Bali at Legian
Jl. Padma No. 1, Legian, T: 0361 752 111

www.padmahotels.com

Harold Wiesmann Wins the WINS a Prestigious Wine Spectator’s Award

The St. Regis Bali Resort has been recognised with a prestigious award by the world-widely known Wine Spectator magazine. Harold Wiesmann, Sommelier at The St. Regis Bali Resort, the first St. Regis resort in Asia, as well as restaurant manager for the resort’s signature fine dining beachfront restaurant, Kayuputi, played a major role in developing and presenting this wine list. Harold reaps this prestigious award for the third time, this time for Kayuputi; having received two awards from Wine Spectator over recent years, the first in 2006 while at Mozaic (Bali) which incidentally marked the first time ever that an Indonesian establishment received an award from such a world reputed magazine and the second in 2007 while he was at the Viceroy (Bali).

Kayuputi, St Regis Bali Resort, Kawasan Pariwisata, Nusa Dua T: 0361 773 730, www.starwoodhotels.com

A New Hotel on the Block…

A new Ramada hotel has just opened up on the beautiful Legian Beach. Named the Ramada Camakila Legian, each of the rooms has a private balcony.
The Thai flavours of the TAO Beach house can be enjoyed whilst looking out across the ocean. Or spend your time reveling in the international flavours at Azaa.

The hotel is offering a special rate during the first few months of opening, so don’t be shy, call, book and check yourself in!! (Ramada Camakila Legian, Jl. Pura Bagus Teruna, Legian, T: 0361 752 877, www.legianresortcamakila.com)

Aston Bali Beach Resort & Spa Has a New Chef

A new Chef has recently joined the team at Giorgio Italian fine dining restaurant. Owen Thomas Colville is an experienced chef who has worked in the intimate Relais & Chateaux restaurant under the supervision of two-star Michelin Chef Jacques Thérol as well as in two large properties in Dubai. (Aston Bali Resort & Spa, JL. Pratama No. 68X, Tanjung Benoa, Nusa Dua, T: 0361 773 577, www.astonbali.com)


Bali’s Latest Luxury Villa

An island like Bali can never have enough luxury villas. There’s always space for more beautiful furniture and top draw swimming pools. After all, the best island in the world needs to have the best things in life, and in big portions too. That’s why the opening of The Royal Santrian has given us quite the excitement.

Built on a 2.5 hectares of land in Tanjung Benoa, The Royal Santrian has 22 gorgeous villas to boast. To add to their excellent service, the villa complex also offers a two-pavilion spa and a hip poolside bar. As for food, make sure you try their Teppanyaki grill and the cool Sushi bar.

Special rates from opening day are currently still on offer, starting at USD 465++ for a deluxe villa.

The Royal Santrian, Jl. Pratama Tanjung Benoa, Nusa Dua, T: 0361 77 8181, www.theroyalsantrian.com


Alila ubud

BLIPfest in conjunction with Alila Ubud proudly presents Imagemakers of the Future, an exhibition showcasing the works of emerging young Indonesian photographers who are in the first years of their careers. Taken from different areas of the photographic spectrum, they represent the future of the already rich field of Indonesian photography.

BLIPfest (Bali Photography Festival) is a major international photography event hosting an array of exhibitions, workshops and seminars in Bali. A first for Bali, BLIPfest will take place during the last week of September and run into the first week of October.

The events of BLIPFEST 2010 will be spread over venues around Denpasar, Kuta, Nusa Dua and Ubud.

Imagemakers
Alila Ubud, Desa Melinggih Kelod
Payangan, Gianyar
T: 0361 975 963

www.alilahotels.com/ubud or check out: www.theblipfest.com

Starlight at Kayumanis

Dine in ultimate intimate delight with a private starlight dinner at Kayumanis in Ubud. The intimate dinner commences at twilight with an exotic cocktail as you and your partner watch the sun go down across the Ubud hinterland. Then, with the candles flickering out on the balcony, the meal which has been tailored according to your individual tastes and preferences by the Kayumanis Executive Chef, is served. This romantic evening for two is priced at just $200 ++ and includes a bottle of sparkling wine. Just make sure you arrange the dinner at least one day in advance.

Kayumanis, Sayan Village, Ubud, T: 0361 972 777, www.kayumanis.com

Italian Orientations

One of Italy's most highly regarded photo artists, Matteo Basilé, recently held an exhibition in Bali which brought about a new sense of excitement and hope to the island's art scene. But what exactly are his works like?

thisoriented_people v6, 2009, triptic -c-print on plexiglass cm, 180x120The long time impact and important role of the Italian expatriate community in Bali is undeniable, especially in the realms of art and design. One of the more cohesive national groups on the island, I was honoured although unsurprised when no less than three of the Italian community's premiere godfathers called me in succession in September. 'You must attend THISORIENTED II,' I was told, 'the opening of the exhibition by young award-winning Roman artist Matteo Basilé at the Italian owned Biasa Artspace in Legian'. 'It will be opened and curated by Achilles Bonito,' I was further informed, 'a legendary art critic whose many kudos include the 40th Venice Biennale'.

The opening left no doubt that the Italians truly know how to put on an event, dress well and enjoy the good life. I myself was impressed by Basilé's art and the towering presence of Achilles. In a nutshell, it was a great event that shone brightly in a Bali gallery scene often dominated by the mediocre and eminently forgettable.

Simply described, Basilé's show consisted of a series of fine art prints created by digital manipulation and collage of photos. As my Italian friends foretold most are distinctly surrealistic and incorporate exotic elements from eastern lands, in particular Japan and Bali. Basilé has a distinct flair for drama seen in his moody self-portrait (on the website) and in his impressive artworks. Now in his mid-thirties, Basilé enigmatically describes himself as an heir 'from a well-known dynasty of artists' and a 'forerunner of digital art' who 'uses avant-garde technology as a research prosthesis'. I am not sure how that sounds in Italian but in English it has a definitely vague and rather pretentious tone that makes me suggest he considers finding a better translator. For the sake of us ignorant non-Italians, it would be appreciated if information on his dynasty was either clarified or dropped.

Curiously for an artist who emphasises his avant-garde credentials, his images seem to be more anchored in classical European painting than anything approaching 21st century cutting edge design and technology. This does not detract from their impact but his reliance on perspective, the horizon, dramatic clouds and a single central figure in his landscape compositions is pure Renaissance. He also plays with other classical genres including nudes, theatrical portraits and the de Chirico-like ruins based on worthy but by no means radically new ideas or concepts. Even the injection of surrealism (now close to a century old!) is by no means startling and in two images – the girl before the temple gate (pure Hofker) and the borderline saccharin sentimentality of two make believe farmers tenderly embracing in a rice field – could lead to accusations of pandering to nostalgic neo-colonial tastes of the Balinese expatriate community.

martiri e santi,  2009, c-print on plexiglass cm, 120x120

Make no mistake, these observations do not diminish the art or the artist, who is obviously very talented and belongs to a new class of international artists who have been visiting or living in Bali. The issue here is not the art but rather a question of the packaging. In an art market in which photos are often viewed with suspicion as far as value is concerned, it is easy to voice the opinion that Basilé's chief aim is to promote a new and very valid art form through a form of shock and awe and unnecessary hype. His long-term success and dedication to the island will be proven by future exhibitions to which we look eagerly forward.

How to Stalk Writers

As one of the best literary festivals in Indonesia – and arguably the region – The Ubud Writes and Readers Festival is one of Bali's yearly highlights. Among hundreds of exciting events on offer during the five-day event, we have chosen ten that makes a complete Bali literary experience.

1 Literary lunch with Wole Soyinka and Hari Kunzru at Four Seasons, Sayan.
Nobel Prize-winning playwright, political activist and connoisseur of fine wine, Nigeria's Wole Soyinka, rubs shoulders over lunch with mercurial UK novelist, and all-round twenty-first-century-renaissance-man, Hari Kunzru. The alchemical possibilities of the combination are almost too many to bear thinking about but could well lead to the synthesis of a hitherto unacknowledged fifth-season at the Four Seasons resort. Bookings are essential, but if you can't get a ticket, be on the lookout for startling atmospheric phenomena in the skies above Sayan.

2 Tribute to Rendra at Pura Dalem, Jalan Raya, Ubud.
Vale W.S. Rendra, who passed away in August this year, was perhaps Indonesia's best-known poet and dramatist. Rising to prominence in the tumultuous 1960s, his flamboyant declamatory style came to epitomise the voice of protest first against Soekarno, then against his successor, Soeharto, whose takeover, Rendra had originally, problematically, supported. By the end of the 1970s, his experiments with the radical kampung-based ‘Bengkel Theatre' led to a prison term, and a seven-year ban on all public performances. By the mid 1980s and into the 1990s he was back, performing his poetry to massive crowds of adoring fans. This tribute will feature a eulogy by Warih Wisatsana and readings of his work by other writers including Max Lane who produced the first English translations of his work.

3 Launch of the 2009 Anthology of Indonesian writers in translation at Neka Art Museum Jalan Raya Campuhan, Ubud.
An important goal of the UWRF is to promote contemporary Indonesian literary culture to a much wider readership. Recognising the crucial role of translation in achieving this, each year the festival publishes an English-language anthology that showcases new Indonesian essays, short stories and poetry by established and emerging writers. This year's launch will feature bilingual readings of work from the anthology, most by authors who have never before been translated. This free event once again proves to be a lively introduction to the incredibly vibrant and diverse Indonesian literary scene.

4 Poetry Slam at Casa Pasta, Monkey Forest Road
You've probably all seen this sort of thing on the sports network, but for those who don't know, a poetry slam is a bit like world championship wrestling. It can be brutal, sweaty, and downright gruesome and that's just the audience. Watch heavyweight wordsmiths battle it out with the poetic equivalents of the flying mare, the sleeper, the dreaded hammerlock, all to the accompaniment of cheering, jeering, foot stomping fans whose participation is all part of the entertainment. Performance poet extraordinaire Omar Musa, who is no stranger to the gladiatorial arena, having creamed the opposition in the 2008 Australian final, will start as firm favourite. But will he be a match for the talented line-up at this year's UWRF slam? A no-holds-barred contest of wit, hilarity and sheer linguistic brawn. Hey! Is that a haiku in your tights?

5 Literary Lunch with Fatima Bhutto and Desi Anwar, Alila resort, Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan.
A survey conducted in Pakistan recently ranked Fatima Bhutto a close third in the list of preferred Prime Ministers, but to date she has steadfastly resisted the dynastic and popular pressure to enter politics, focussing instead on poetry, journalism and points between. She is also such a disarmingly eloquent speaker, and fearless critic of injustices in her own country and around the world, that raising the topic of her alleged relationship with George Clooney would seem exceedingly shallow. Offering Fatima a platter of deliciously poised hors d' oeuvres will be Desi Anwar, broadcaster with Metro TV, journalist and former presenter of the ground-breaking news and current affairs programme Seputar Indonesia.

6 Twilight Playreadings at The Yoga Barn, Jalan Pengosekan, Ubud.
Plays by three celebrated playwrights and festival guests: Nigerian Wole Soyinka, Indonesian Cok Sawitri, and Italian Marco Calvani, will be presented by an all-star cast from Indonesia, Australia, Zimbabwe, and Italy. Settle back, close your eyes and listen, or focus on the faces talking. The stagecraft is inside your head. It's amazing how the images come. Go and give it a try yourself.

7Writers Rock Hard at Hard Rock Café, Jalan Pantai, Kuta.
Rock ‘n' Read! Sam Cutler, former tour manager for the Grateful Dead and the Rolling Stones – most notoriously during their 1969 "Let it Bleed" tour of the US, which ended on a dark and bitter-cold night at Altamont - has just written a book. "You Can't Always Get What You Want" is a candid memoir of those days on the road that throws a whole new light on the 1960s and 70s and the rock stars and spectaculars they spawned. Cutler will be joined by Jerinx from Bali's ambassadors of punk and custom culture, Superman is Dead, recently returned from their own tour of the US. Check, one, two.

8 Ode to the martini @ Naughty Nuri's, Jalan Raya Sanggingan, Ubud.
Literature is like distillation; both seek to capture precious essences. Try saying that after a few drinks! One part inspiration, three parts rocket fuel with a tantalising twist, Nuri's' martinis, with or without a side order of her equally famous char-grilled ribs, tuna or lambchops, have reputedly reduced "grown men" to tears. One or two writers at this year's festival have sworn off the stuff. And that just means more for the rest of them. An elegiac dedication to that most elemental of drinks, go hear their tales and odes and get yourself a taste of what they're talking about.

9 Midsummer night's dream, theatre fireFLY at ARMA museum, Jalan Pengosekan, Ubud.
Shakespeare teleported to the lush gardens of the ARMA Museum in Pengosekan. A cross-cultural, multi-everything production that combines sampled sounds with junkyard percussion, digital projections with natural features, and amateurs with professionals, to look at relationships: between communities, between people, between people and the environment, and between the seen and unseen worlds. The Bard's fairies in this adaptation are transformed into Balinese river spirits – played by young participants in a workshop programme run by the troupe.

10 Q & A cocktails with Vikas Swarup at Amandari, Kedewatan, Ubud.
Meet Vikas Swarup, Indian diplomat and author of Q&A, the runaway success topped and tailed to become the multi-Academy Award-winning Slumdog Millionaire. His second novel Six Suspects, a Gordian knot of a thriller about the assassination of a reprehensible and politically well-connected playboy murderer, has also recently been optioned. Ask him, over a cocktail, how he finds the time to write, about the challenges and joys of cinematic adaptation, and about…well, anything really.

For full details, go straight to the UWRF website: www.ubudwritersfestival.com

Energy Rituals - Kriya Spa

Here on this lovely island paradise we've learnt of a different way to reinvigorate and to rest. We've learnt to be treated and spoiled, polished and cared for until we feel like facing the world again. We've also discovered that there is a perfect place to find comfort, to heal and to rest. A place that offers an alternate prescription for the body and the mind.

Kriya means "rituals" in Sanskrit, so that is exactly why we have come to Kriya at the Grand Hyatt Bali in Nusa Dua. The signature spa rituals here are designed to guide guests on a process of transformation that has been developed from the traditional healing knowledge of Hinduism.

The first step on the path to healing is to sit down for a consultation with Dr Sanjay, who will prescribe you the perfect treatment or treatment plan for your individual needs. The four ritual elements to be experienced are harmony, purity, energy and bliss.

Harmony is found with the Moksha Kriya, a ritual to harmonise the body, mind and spirit. For Purity, one should look no further than the Nirmala Kriya, which promises to achieve transformation through boosting the body's natural healing abilities. Bliss is offered with a choice between the Aanand Kriya, a treatment for those who are seeking total relaxation or the Cinta Kriya for couples who are looking to retreat and share. Then there are the Energy treatments; the treatments that will treat you back to life. First on the list is Yowanna Kriya for sloughing off exhaustion, reviving and bringing new energy.

But, I've been prescribed the Energy ritual known as Shakti Kriya. It is a rejuvenation treatment based on the principals of Balinese spa healing, intended to achieve deep invigoration of mind and body. The two-and-a-half-hour treatment allows you to enhance and refresh with the age old recipes of Balinese herbs combined with classic massage techniques and treatments to restore, balance and energise body and mind.

Once within the peaceful surrounds of a private spa villa, change into your dressing gown, slippers and extra special spa attire and sit down for the sea salt foot bath which helps to guide guests into a relaxed state of mind.

Laying face down on the massage table, the therapist will cleanse your energy and prepare you for your healing journey with a chakra healing before beginning the Traditional Balinese Boreh Body Envelopment Treatment.

This ancient healing mask is designed to ease both aches and pains with a sweet earthy blend of native clove, cinnamon, coconut and ginger root applied to the skin using specialised touch therapies. As the therapist gently massages the walnut brown mixture onto the skin the aroma of sweet spice fills the air and further amplified when the body is cocooned in a warm electrical blanket the therapist wraps around the body.

Whilst wrapped up in this amazing insulated shell, a head massage sooths the mind and allows the body to rest. Enhanced by this element this treatment is designed to warm up the muscles, activate the mind, boost circulation of the blood and increase metabolism.

the peaceful surrounds of the private spa villaStep out the door for a quick rinse in the outdoor shower before laying down in the private pavilion in anticipation of the Kriya Specialised Massage Therapy.
Bali Pijat Cokor, the massage within the Shakti Kriya package is famous as being a massage for a warrior. The specialty of this massage, and the reason for my anticipation is found in the fact that the massage utilises the firm rhythmic strokes of the therapists feet to unknot deep-seated muscle tension. Laying there, the therapist gaining extra strength by balancing with a knot tied to the rafters above me, I understand why this massage is so healing. The feet seem to have a way of encouraging muscles to collapse and follow the direction and order of the strong manipulating feet.

On finishing the massage it's just a matter of hopping into the outdoor tub for a steaming hot Sea Salt Hydro-Soak Therapy bath. The Sea Salt Hydro-Soak is rich in minerals and salts that are used to activate circulation and re-contour the body. This bath is recommended for those trying to fight problem areas and relieve stubborn cellulite.

Sitting comfortably in neck high hot water that is ever so slightly tipping over the edge of the bath, a cup of soothing herbal tea clasped between my hands, sweetened with a spoonful of honey to taste, I find myself finally letting go of my exhaustion and truly relaxing in a state of pampered harmony. The bath is filled with a large jug of sea salt, a healthy helping of additional mineral and herbal salts alongside a couple of herbal pouches and a perfectly adult amount of bubbles for good measure.

Kriya Spa, Grand Hyatt Bali,Nusa Dua T: 0361 778 884, www.kriya-spa.com

The Balinese Writer - Cok Sawitri

Acclaimed Balinese writer, choreographer and director, Cok Sawitri shares a glimpse into her childhood, how she became a writer, and the philosophy behind her incredible works.

Cok SawitriOn Becoming a Writer…
I began writing when I was very young. It was normal because my family were all artists. But I never thought that I was going to be a writer. When I was in primary school I wanted to be an ambassador so that I could travel around the world.
In middle school, I became the editor of my school publication and at times when there were no articles to publish I had no other choice but to write. So, when I got to senior school, I started a publication for students and this experience taught me what it was like to be an editor.

When I was young my family never praised me for my creativity or achievements. It was really hard to get them to clap their hands for me. It wasn't because they didn't care, but because they were artists themselves they thought what I was doing was normal.

One day, I decided to enter into a poetry reading competition. That was the first day I realised I must have been good at something.

I never really studied literature, I studied politics instead. The man who pushed me to write poetry is Pak Umbu Landukarandu. He said to me "Cok, can you send me your poetry". He begged me. I was never confident in myself or about my own poetry, his appreciation helped to encourage me.

On Childhood and Influences…
I don't really have any specific influences. I am really close with all of my family. We are all very close, and get along well. I often think that I am not suitable to be an artist, because I often feel like artists need something inside, like anxiety or deep worries.

I was always really spoiled. So, it is not the artist internal anguish that drives me to write.

My parents where stage performers. I was always at the theatre with them. When I was young there was no such thing as backing noise or tracks, so my mother would pinch me to create the sound of a baby crying. I learned a lot from being around the theatre with them.

My family have never judged people based on what they look like. They always looked at people by who they are, what kind of books they have and if they are kind and caring. I was taught that this was the best way. I used to see interesting people, with different styles such as Rastafarians, long-haired musicians and so on, and think that they were fantastic. They made government workers look so normal. I was taught to see artists as special, because that's what my parents taught me.

On Philosophy and Technique…
What makes me want to write is mostly social. The first time I wrote, I was writing articles. It gave me a background in research. In theatre, I am more experimental. I don't believe that inspiration will drive you, you must use logic. There are no wild people on the stage. Wild is only in your head, you must learn to manage the wildness. If not, no one will want to watch you and your performance won't have any effect.

When I'm on the stage, I always put my priority to the concept. My writing is always linked to religion, but it's not religious. It's social, but with a well-researched reality. There are broader, often political meaning and awareness behind the stories. A lot of the stories I write, are referring to humanity, even if it seems as if I am talking about women.

Like the story about Pembelaan Dirah (Dirah's Defence), it originated from the story of Calon Arang, but I created it as a type of monologue with a four-phase experiment. The concept of my story represents my belief that disharmony is actually harmony. What I try to tell everyone is to look at what's happening on stage as an incident where an innocent woman has become a scapegoat for something that she wasn't responsible for. I wanted to make the audience think objectively, to question why this woman became the scapegoat.

So, within my thoughts, the art, literature, and poetry is not supposed to differentiate between gender. My concepts move beyond gender. They are intended to represent humanity without restricting through gender.

The Best of Nusa Dua

From a museum, to a spaceship and a spa of butterflies, Nusa Dua has it all. One of Bali’s most exclusive areas is also about to hold its 13th cultural festival this month. We celebrate by feasting on the best that the peninsula has to offer.

Get wrapped in mud
Going to a spa these days takes courage. Over are the days when a spa visit only includes a gentle massage, a sauna and a flower bath. More spa goers mean more spa openings and this means more money for research and development. If you consider yourself a spa connoisseur, then getting wrapped in mud is something you live for. The Black Moor mud is known for its healing characteristics. When you get your skin scrubbed with aromatic and warm Moor mud and then have it wrapped all over you for about half and hour, your skin immediately becomes very smooth. Add that with a fine massage and you know you're going to come back again next month. (The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 327, www.luxurycollection.com/bali)

Ditch your kids
But this is only because we know The Westin Kids Club is one of the best on the island. The resort has developed all-round facilities and services where your offspring are well taken care of and fully entertained. They have art classes for your kids to learn how to make simple handicrafts and appreciate Balinese culture, or even fishing. Longing for a peaceful breakfast without your kids running around, screaming and making a mess all over? The Westin has gone as far as providing special kids section at breakfast which for some people is the ingredient that makes a perfect morning cup of coffee. (The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, BTDC area Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 906, www.starwoodhotels.com)


Ride a camel
They can't possibly bring a desert to a beach in Bali, but they can bring the camels. These animals might not look as handsome as studs, but they are surely fun to ride, especially on the beach and then through a traditional village. Both the morning and afternoon rides are almost equally entertaining, but keep in mind that it could get really hot up there when the sun is in full blow. The sunset tour is best because it can keep your sweat level to the minimum. (Nikko Bali Resort and Spa, Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan T: 0361 773 377, www.nikkobali.com)

Sip the island's best Bloody Mary
At St Regis Bali Resort, they call it Bali Mary and it's truly merry. Coming here with an empty stomach is not recommended because you might end up drinking glasses after glasses of this tasty drink for your lunch. The vodka, spices and tomato juice are mixed together so well that this drink feels so crunchy you almost want to chew instead of sip. Luckily, the bartenders have mercy on you and provide you with a piece of cucumber. What's the recipe you ask? Absolute Pepper, jicama, cucumber, brown sugar, tomato juice, lemon and a variety of spices of which content is we can't reveal. For the best experience, come for a sunset drink and enjoy it while watching the resort's regular fire dance performance. (The St. Regis Bali Resort, Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot S6, T: 0361 847 8111, www.stregis.com/bali)

Holiday like a celebrity
No, it doesn't mean jet-setting with a diet of champagne and cigarettes, but stay in a zen-like environment and eat healthily, just like Sting and Donna Karan. The Balé's villas can soothe your mind simply by handsomely standing there. The whole complex has been designed to look more like a modern temple with a world class spa equipped with a comprehensive health menu. If that's not enough, their signature restaurant Faces also has a Wellness Corner menu. Be sure to try the light yet flavourful organic quinoa salad with nashi ear, papaya relish, toasted almonds and curry vinaigrette. (The Balé, Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, T: 0361 775 111, www.thebale.com)

Whack balls
Releasing stress is sometimes not just about relaxing. There's only so much sunbathing and going to a spa can do for you. For the rest, golf is the answer. Designed by Nelson Wright, the 18-hole course at Bali Golf and Country Club is considered as one of the best in Asia. The windy nature of the Nusa Dua area is just the challenge you need to prove to yourself and most importantly, your golf buddies (of course!), that you are the best at whacking balls and putting them into tiny holes. There is a Balinese-style clubhouse for the post game drinks, but if you can't wait that long, try asking for two caddies. One to carry your golf stuff and another one to carry your drinks and to make sure the glasses are bottomless.(Bali Golf & Country Club, Kawasan Wisata Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 791, www.baligolfandcountryclub.com)

Dine in outer space
Tetaring restaurant in Kayumanis Nusa Dua was designed and made by aliens. Yes, this is a blatant lie, but it could have been for its futuristic looks. The architects here have managed to combine glass and bamboo panels so perfectly that you are under the illusion of dining inside a spaceship. Their food however, isn't alien as they are guaranteed to please the human palate. Farther inside the complex, their villas are also equally excellently designed. Popular for honeymoon couples, the best thing about staying here is the privacy. Kayumanis Nusa Dua doesn't accept children and even when the complex is full, you can hardly see the other guests.(Kayumanis Nusa Dua, BTDC Area Nusa Dua T: 0361 770 777, www.kayumanis.com)

Eat modern Indonesia food
The best Indonesian foods are often the ones you find on the side of the streets. But while the foods out there are indeed mouth-watering, you also need to have the right stomach for it. If you have just arrived on the island, you might want to stay away and be kind to your tummy. Instead, go for the safe option and enjoy modern Indonesian dishes in a posh setting. Chef de Cuisine Ida Bagus Oka's five-course set menu is a great introduction to this type of Indonesian dishes. But if you want to choose from the menu, we recommend you to start with the oxtail soup and have the Sate Besar as your main course.(The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort and Spa, Nusa Dua, Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771327, www.luxurycollection.com/bali)

Live like a king
To become a king is difficult. Prince Charles might have the pleasure one day, but even he can't get the guarantee. So you need to marry the Queen of England where the possibility of which is next to nil. Still, you can live like one easily in Nusa Dua. The Royal Residence at Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa is owned by the Sultan of Brunei and this is where he resides whenever he's in Bali. However, for most of the year when the king isn't around, the residence is available for rent. Lie down on the massive four-post bed that looks truly striking and get a taste of the royal comfort everybody has been dreaming about for all of their lives. Who knows it might be contagious. (Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa, BTDC area Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 210, www.nusaduahotel.com)

Be cultured
Every year, there are noises usually coming out of the amphitheatre at Nusa Dua. When it does, you're in luck because that means there is a feast of culture in the area. Now in its 13th year, the Nusa Dua Fiesta will be held from October 17-21. Unfortunately, the cool amphitheatre is not going to be used as much as before. This year, most activities will be held on the Nusa Gede Island and the organiser has promised a colossal Balinese dance performance for all to marvel at on the opening day. There will also be daily Indonesian traditional performing art shows at the newly-built stage on the tiny island. For detailed schedule, check out their website: fiesta.balinusaduaresort.com

Be a shopaholic
It's an accepted notion that shopping gives instant gratification. What happens after you receive your credit card bill later on is a bridge you only cross when you really have to. Those who know Nusa Dua well is aware of the fact that there is actually good shopping in the area. Bali Collection offers a wide variety of goods from evening cocktail outfit to jewellery, cheap tourist tats, books, sporting goods to food. Yes, food. There are plenty of good restaurants and bars available inside the open-air complex should you decide you need more energy and encouragement to swipe your card.

Get married in a pyramid
Not a real pyramid of course, but inside the remarkable triangular structure made by glass called Infinity located at Conrad Bali. It seats 60 people so it's big enough for an intimate yet lavish wedding ceremony. This wedding venue is ideally located by the beach so you get a great view of the Indian Ocean while pledging unconditional love to your significant other. Should you want to go more traditional, the Water Garden, also in the vicinity of Conrad Bali is an alternative option. (Conrad Bali, Jl. Pratama 168, Tanjung Benoa, T: 0361 778 788, www.conradhotels.com)

Try Nusa Dua's newest Sushi bar
Japanese cuisine enthusiasts in Bali can be happy and excited with the fact that more and more excellent Japanese restaurants have been opened here. Let's just hope the good news reaches the ears of chef Nobu and convince him to open a restaurant on the island. But until then, let's welcome the latest addition to Bali's world of Japanese eateries. The Royal Santrian has only recently opened its doors to public, but its hip Sushi bar has already been going places. The chef improvises daily creating new Sushi rolls for guests. Imagine the variety and type of rolls available at the bar. Be one of the first to have a bite! (The Royal Santrian, Jl. Pratama Tanjung Benoa, Nusa Dua, T: 0361 778 181, www.theroyalsantrian.com)

Join the local water games
The main Nusa Dua tourist complex offers a decent range of beach activities. But the real fun is located a bit farther down in Tanjung Benoa. Known as the centre for water sports in Bali, this area offers a whole new level of water-related adrenaline-pumpers. Brave yourself and try out the parasailing facilities or see if you can still look cool on water playing wake and knee boarding. If you simply want to feel roaring engines in between your legs, there are plenty of jetskis around to satisfy your needs. For a wide variety of such sports that even include coral/deep fishing tour, head down to Conrad Bali. (Conrad Bali, Jl. Pratama 168, Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 778 788, www.conradhotels.com)

Pamper yourself at the spa of butterflies
The Remède Spa at St. Regis Bali is a beautiful and massive complex surrounded by a koi pond. If you arrive after sunset you get to be welcomed by luminous rectangular rocks placed tastefully at the lobby. After that, walking to your treatment room, you'll start to think that you're seeing butterflies and moon everywhere. Don't panic. It's not something you might have eaten or drunk, it's just one of the interesting features in this posh spa. Inspired by the Indian Poet, Kabir (1398-1448), who wrote “the moon shines in my body”, a moon and butterfly theme runs through the spa facilities and with sophisticated lighting, they have somehow managed to make these butterflies look to be gently fluttering around. If you only have time to try one treatment here, ask for the one that uses vodka. Are you starting to get butterflies in your stomach now? (The St. Regis Bali Resort, Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot S6, T: 0361 847 8111, www.stregis.com/bali)

Appreciate art
On this island, when you think about museums and art, you think about Ubud. But it turns out that even in posh Nusa Dua you can still go and stare at a painting for hours. Museum Pasifika is quite new, it's only opened in 2006, but it already boasts over 600 works on permanent display. On top of showcasing fine works by Indonesian artists, the museum also displays works from other international artists whose works carry similar theme, Asia and the Pacific. When you're done analysing the paintings, there is a little stand at the lobby where you can buy a book about all the arts inside. As the museum rarely gets busy, it really is a nice break from all the shopping and partying one seem to always do in this area. (Museum Pasifika, BTDC Area, Blok P, T: 0361 774 935, 774 624, Opens daily from 10am – 6pm, Admission fee is IDR 60,000, www.museum-pasifika.com)

 

privacy and policy | Make Money Online