Lazing in Lembongan

Nusa Lembongan - two hours from Bali is another world. This little island, where white sand beaches, seaweed farms and sub aqua coral gardens, are surrounded by turqoise waters is still very much of a mystery to most visitors to Bali. But it makes a getaway to be remembered. While it is still part of Bali, it is far enough away to make it either a big day out or a quiet holiday.

nusa lembonganLembongan lies deep in the Lombok Straits close to the sister islands of Nusa Ceningan and Nusa Penida once famous as an island of banishment in the days when the Regency of KlungKung ruled. While they are still part of Klungkung Regency they are no longer islands of punishment but rather islands of pleasure. And today Nusa Penida is better known for its distinctive red cepuk handloomed cloth and as a great dive site as those swirling waters hide a wealth of big fish and coloured corals.

We leave early one morning from one of the jetties at Benoa Harbour – the departure point for all the boats that go across to Lembongan – The Bounty, Bali Hai, and several other bigger sailboats. Each makes a daily trip providing a big, fun day out for holiday makers We sailed on the Waka – an expansive luxury catamaran - but not big enough for crowds.

nusa lembonganTen to fifteen people is the daily limit and it makes for a much more intimate experience. The day starts with coffee and croissants, as we leave the shelter of the harbour. At Benoa Harbour the crew hand out sea sick pills as the sea was quite high. They were very effective. Settling back on to one of the black covered banquettes, I drifted quickly into a soft slumber – a slumber that lasted all day, only to be interrupted briefly by our arrival at the island, to the Waka Nusa Resort.

I made my way to my room and slept some more – till the lunch bell rang. Then after lunch it was time for some more deep slumber til the cool of the late afternoon called to do a little exploring of the island.

The resort iis a kind of tropical paradise - white sand floors are shaded by tall coconut trees – very beachcomber – the sort of place you feel instantly relaxed. High attap roofs provide shade while allowing lots of space to catch any breezes that may drift by. Behind a strong coral wall are the eight or so individual rooms or lanais. Circular, with thatched attap roofs they are all very safari – very "Out Of Africa" in the tropics. They offer all one could need – a great bed, lots of billowing white drapery, hot water and air conditioning - although the wooden vented windows and big glass doors are all designed to catch the breezes.

nusa lembonganMy favourite time is in the afternoon, as the light begins to fall and the big tour boats leavefor Bali. The island reverts to its customary peacefulness, as village life takes over, leaving you with a more Robinson Crusoe feel.

Dinner at the Waka was an exercise in romantic. Sitting under the coconut
trees with sand underfoot, the simple wooden tables look out over the sea. Candle light and the soft lapping of the sea work magic

Traffic on the island is almost non existant - well there is no traffic really, just the odd motorbike and occaisional car rambling by. We take a motor bike or two and set out for a short exploration. Deserted beaches of white sand and rocks are offset by crashing waves on the other side of the small island - nice for sunset. There are also some good surfing breaks off the island but we had no time to explore them. Watch out for our surfing column on Nusa Lembongan.

nusa lembonganThere are just two villages on the island – Desa Lembongan and Desa
Jumut Batu and both seem to contain an extraordinary number of temples. Perhaps because Lembongan is still qute traditional the people have more
time for doing the things that the Balinese have done or along time.

In the old days the people of Lembongan were very poor but now, something wonderful happened to their island and we are not talking tourism – although that too, brings in additional income. Seaweed! When Japanese varieties were introduced, they took to the cool shallow waters with a vengeance and seaweed has become the biggest money earner on the island. As the demand for seaweed for cosmetic use increased, it began to find markets in Japan and Hong Kong as well as Germany and Java. This created yet another windfall and now most families can afford a hand phone and TV motorbike and usually, a fridge. Wonderful for peope who could barely afford to eat rice in the bad old days!

People who like to do tours wil be happy to visit the "Hobbit House" an underground house built by a priest and the seaweed farms which
give an insight into another kind of island life.

As we sailed back I asked one of the guides about the famous guest he had on board recently. He regaled me with tales of big bodyguards, men with parangs and the needs for privacy - all good stuff as we sat sipping an excellent tropical cocktail accompanied by cheese and biscuits. Wonderful!

For more info go to www.wakaexperience.com