Save my Bali

ape shall not kill ape

2010-09-30T10:06:00.000-07:00

as gamelan music rings out above our rooftops, and the soft glow of lights dots

the rice fields, it’s easy to get lost in bali’s magic and forget about the plight of

the environment in neighbouring islands
_{text melanie j martin image photolibrary}

nfortunately for some travellers, Bali is not so magical. When infant orangutans are captured from the forests of Sumatra and Borneo, Bali often marks the first stop on their journey to a private home or zoo. Once there, they will never have the chance to swing from a tree. They will be spending their life in a small cage or room rather than the vast jungle of their homeland. “While East Java is the epicentre of illegal trade in Indonesian animals, Bali remains a prominent site for such trade as well, with captured animals often passing through Ngurah Rai airport,” claims ProFauna Indonesia.

Orangutan – critically endangered in Sumatra and endangered in Borneo – are one of the most in-demand illegally traded species. Thus, their prices are among the highest. This is in spite of the fact that since 1931 – according to the wildlife trade-monitoring network, TRAFFIC – they have been protected in Indonesia. They add: “Despite a maximum sentence of five years in jail and a fine of Rp. 100 million, the chance of being caught or prosecuted is extremely low.”Such trade leads to the overwhelming problem of what to do with the recovered animals. Many are given to rehabilitation centres in Sumatra and Borneo when they reach adulthood and no longer want to obey humans. In Kalimantan, over 1,000 orangutans have been placed in rehabilitation centres and few stand a chance of returning to the wild.

Furthermore, according to World Wildlife Fund UK, for each infant captured, five to six adults are killed as they attempt to defend the baby. Infants must survive the fall from the trees as they cling to their dying mother, and then endure the lack of proper care, extremely cramped conditions, foreign diseases, and the emotional toll of the entire ordeal. The Sumatran Orangutan Society (SOS) also claims “with only about 6,600 Sumatran orangutans left in the wild, each captured or killed animal lowers the chances of the species’ survival.”

thou art my joy

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the term “art” has become a grey area that is ripe for the picking, and also poking. since creative expression cannot be measured by a mathematical absolute, how does one define art and its worth? here are eight propositions in search of an argument

text peter stephenson image photolibrary

1 At first it would appear that the only trouble with culture in Bali is that there’s way too much of it. It’s hard to find a single view that hasn’t been embellished, framed by carving or careful cultivation, so that even if after a while you start to take it for granted, and stop consciously looking, the whole experience of Bali remains filtered through a filigree of creative endeavour.

2 Yet a further problem arises when someone asks whether we should classify any of it as “art”. Then there’s that other old chestnut – riddled with borers – about the distinction between craft and art; that is, between an activity adjudged to be primarily concerned with the manipulation of materials and an activity primarily concerned with the task of communication and self-expression for its own sake. Until relatively recently, most cultures had no such distinction.

3 So already, the more astute eavesdroppers in this circular argument will mention the tendency to rely on Western parameters that don’t apply to creativity in cultures in other parts of the world, such as ours. Ideas of creativity in Bali, for example, have not always been so bound up in notions of individualism, or the idea of the artist as the elegant stranger come to teach us how to see, ideas that have at least since the European Renaissance underpinned romantic Western notions of artistic endeavour.

seven things you must know about may and lou homes

2010-09-30T10:02:00.002-07:00

One of the best things about buying a villa or a property in Bali is the whole experience of looking for the perfect location, the perfect architecture, and then finally seeing it being built. And one way to make this particular experience better is by getting professional help from the right people. As one of the island’s leading property developers, May and Lou Homes comes in with high recommendations. Here are seven things about them that might tickle your fancy:

1 architect, builder and consultant

The guys at May and Lou Homes
don’t just provide you with help in searching for that perfect villa, but you can also come to them for consultations on building your future house from scratch. This means you can come to them with something as little as a dream (and money of course!) and they will do all the necessary work to transform your dream into a reality.

2 house expansion

Should you already have a house or a villa that you want to revamp and expand, these guys can also do it. They are very experienced in building swimming pools, adding an extra bedroom, expanding your kitchen, or even enlarging your garden and working on the landscape to make it look exactly how you want it to be.

3 the kemenuh villa

This gorgeous villa is located in Kemenuh, Gianyar – the town of the woodcarvers – famous for their Balinese-style garuda statues. The two-storey villa is built on a vast 3,600 m2 piece of land and the landscape is quite impressive indeed.

villa air bali

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villa air bali

where is it?
Petitenget is the up-and-coming area in Seminyak that still retains a quiet atmosphere. While not exactly next door, the beach and
the much-talked-about restaurants and bars are within walking distance. The villa complex is a stone’s throw away from the locus of Bali’s
pop and high-street cultures, but far enough from the throngs of people, yet at the same time, near enough so that whenever you feel like escaping, your personal sanctuary
is reachable in a jiffy.

what are the villas like?
The one-bedroom villa is spacious with a semi-open living area and bathroom. Each villa is decorated with little gardens, which is probably one of the best features of the villas here.
The whole complex is adorned with beautiful lush landscape with immaculately trimmed greenery. There are so many trees around, it’s easy to think that you are actually living in the woods, but with all the modern comforts of a luxurious villa.
Throughout the day, a mild breeze keeps the whole space of the villa cool. You can do something as simple as sit down, dip your feet in the pool and let the cool air caress your face.

what are the facilities like?
The bathroom is equipped with a Jacuzzi next to a fixture flowing with calming water. There is a personal computer in the room for Internet use, but unfortunately, the WiFi connection is only available at Mata Air Café.
The resort also has a very good spa, Spa Air, which is open to the public. This spa boasts a good selection of ayurvedic treatments that includes shirodara and chakra dara. They also provide in-villa massage services if you’re too lazy to leave your villa. But to get the complete experience, we highly recommend that you make the small effort and bring yourself to the spa.

what about food and drink?
Mata Air Café serves Japanese-French fusion cuisine prepared gourmet style. The in-villa dining menu is also quite extensive and offers a lot of different types of sake, which, for Bali, is very good news. There are also four types of breakfast to choose from: Japanese, Chinese, Indonesian, and American. •

Published rate for the one-bedroom villas starts
at US$ 400++.

Jl. Lebak Sari, Banjar Taman, Petitenget, T: 0361 737 378, www.villa-airbali.com

spa 2

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floating on air

Spa Air at Villa Air Bali Boutique Resort offers a scenic surroundings to your blissful treatments with all spa facilities scattered around a lake and lush greenery. For the whole month of October, get a 30 per cent discount off all treatments (not including yoga and healing sessions) plus an additional 10 per cent off meals in their restaurant pre or post treatment to seal the deal.

Spa Air, Villa Air Bali Boutique Resort, Jl. Lebak Sari, Petitenget, T: 0361 737 378, www.villa-airbali.com
zen facial retreat at karma kandara

Experience three powerful days of self-growth with a pure facial rejuvenation, daily yoga and workshops under the guidance of Japanese practitioner Fumi Yamamoto, fuelled by energy spa cuisine. Fumi is renowned for her holistic approach to beauty – she is qualified in zen shiatsu, yoga, aromatherapy, reflexology, and craniosacral and lymphatic drainage therapy.
During the program, Fumi will conduct a personal zen facial for each guest alongside a facial diagnosis and daily yoga sessions. The zen facial will be complemented by daily spa therapies, collagen-boosting infrared saunas, and energy spa cuisine. This program will be held on October 23 until 25.

Karma Kandara, Jl. Villa
Kandara, Banjar Wijaya Kusuma, Ungasan, T: 0361 848 2200,
www.karmakandara.com

top o’ the morning to ya!

Theta Spa presents their signature treatment called the marine morning invigorator. It includes a body massage, sea salt scrub, seaweed and banana leaf body wrap, and topped off with an ocean citrus bath to put the spring back in your step.
Best done in the morning to awaken the senses and prepare your skin for sun exposure, this two-hour affair brings all the nourishing effects of the sea to the comfort of Theta’s relax-tastic treatment rooms. Your skin will emerge refreshed, hydrated, and supple, all before you can say, “he motion of the ocean”.

Theta Spa by the Sea, Ramada Bintang Bali Resort, Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta,
T: 0361 755 726, www.thetaspa.com

the science of life at spa the royal

Spa The Royal, which has recently opened at The Royal Santrian presents a chakra-healing ayurvedic therapy based on ancient traditions from India which uses three types of sensory therapies: vata, for a calming and relaxing effect; pitta, for rejuvenation; and kapha for stimulating mental and physical awareness. This two-and-a-half hour treatment is priced at US$ 145 and includes a four-hand massage. Bliss!

Spa The Royal, The Royal Santrian, Jl. Pratama, Tanjung Benoa, T: 0361 778 181,
www.theroyalsantrian.com

spa

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01 a man’s right to spa

classic touch of comfort and care, maya spa offers everything you’d expect from a high calibre spa
_{text chris le images courtesy of maya ubud resort and spa}

the look
Walking down the walkway from the lobby to the spa is one of the more beautiful walks I’ve ever partaken in inside a resort. It reminded me of being inside an immaculately maintained ancient redoubt of some faraway lost jungle civilization. I was only reminded of my ties to the present by the presence of an elevator, which took me down the valley and
closer to the pavilion that houses the spa lobby.

The spa’s front desk ceiling had beautiful illustrations of scantily clad natives arranged in a sort of hieroglyphic fashion. The walk down to the actual room where the treatment took place was but a brief set of stairs down the valley wall. The rooms were classically Bali inspired with a wooden earthly feel that complemented the natural beauty of the surrounding landscape. The view itself was nothing short of breathtaking: a river below, a valley in the middle, and a blue sky above.

the touch
Being a very manly and testosterone-fuelled individual, I naturally chose the masculine express treatment. Offered to males only, this brought me to wonder what a gender specific spa therapy entailed. The first step was some reflexology on the sole. Being empowered by the title of my treatment, I communicated the need to have my reflexology at full strength. The pressure points being stimulated were marginally painful at first, but a good reflexology demands sacrifice. I felt my often-neglected feet circulating good energy at the conclusion of this stage of the treatment, a sure sign of a successful foot rub.
The second stage proved my manhood even further. It included a herbal pound, which amounts to a searing hot bunch of herbs wrapped in cloth and gently pummelled against exposed skin. Where the tougher parts of my body could take the thermal healing, some parts like my inner thighs were not as masculine as initially anticipated. It still felt pretty good though.
The conclusion of the treatment included a warm herbal bath on the balcony of the room overlooking the river. The herbs floated freely around me and very much reminded me of being in a magical stew. I was also served some delicious yogurt, fruits, granola and lime juice.

the ingredients
I was given a choice between bergamot and lime or orange rose for the final herbal bath. The herbal pound was made of a large assortment of different herbs that included China moon, ginger, lime and some roots. What this entire man therapy amounted to was a replacement of all the girly things such as flowers and fruity scrubs in favour of the manliness of herbs, which I think is completely sensible because I enjoy being pampered… in a manly way.

the exceptional
The view from your therapy room at the Maya Spa is truly something that sets it apart from a lot of spas. The sheer scenic magnificence of a jungle valley with the low rumbling of a river below whilst getting a massage is something quite magical. •
_{Maya Ubud Resort and Spa,
Jl. Gunung Sari Peliatan, T: 0361 977 888, www.mayaubud.com}

02 perfect twenty

the twenty-fingers massage by mandara spa is the closest thing to the sublime
_{text indra john images courtesy of ayodya spa by mandara}

the look
Think earthy colours, long, dark and cave-like pathways with unique oriental ornaments. The Ayodya Spa by Mandara is set in a large complex, therefore the treatment rooms and spa villas are quite spacious. Of their 13 single treatment rooms, four are equipped with in-room showers, and there is also a dedicated hand and foot spa area. Each of the spa villas also has their own steam shower, outdoor bale, bath and bathtub.

the touchThe twenty-fingers massage is arguably the epitome of the sublime. To the untrained mind and eyes, it might look as simple as two therapists giving you a massage at the same time, but the actual application involves so much more. These therapists must work on you in a synchronised rhythm, pace and pressure. And when it’s done properly, there is nothing more you can do because you don’t feel like you posses your own body anymore; you’re so relaxed, the only thing left to do is to close your eyes, let go, and think, “This is how cloud nine must feel like.”
On top of this, Mandara’s signature massage combines shiatsu, Hawaiian lomi-lomi, Thai, Swedish, and Balinese massage techniques and the transition from one massage technique to another is almost seamless.

the ingredients
Mandara Spa has four different aromatherapy massage oils to choose from: harmony, Mandara, island spice, and tranquillity. This time, I went for the island spice oil, which is a concoction of clove, ginger and nutmeg. It has a warming effect and I found that the strong clove aroma of the oil did the difficult task of relaxing my mind. It tingled in the beginning, but the moderate heat was a pleasure from the first time it touched an exhausted body.

the extraordinary
In addition to the excellent spa products from Pevonia Botanica used by this spa, they also let you choose your own music. This, to me, is exceptionally excellent because not everyone’s idea of relaxing music is a line-up of New Age tunes. Sometimes, a little bit of jazz might be better on that particular day, or if not, a little bit of pop. After all, a spa experience is as personal as it gets. •

_{Ayodya Spa by Mandara,
Ayodya Resort Bali, Jl. Pantai Mengiat, Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 102,
www.ayodyaresortbali.com}

food events

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Astor Ballroom, The St Regis Bali Resort: Karat Caviar and Champagne Duval-Leroy dinner with a special menu created by executive chef Oscar Perez. The affair starts with a cocktail and canapé reception at King Cole Bar, which is then followed by a six-course dinner at Astor Ballroom. Rp. 2,250,000 nett, T: 0361 300 6114

Bella Singaraja Restaurant, InterContinental Bali Resort: Italian dinner – antipasti buffet and classic pasta mains – with 50 per cent off on all house wines and…a singing chef! Rp. 260,000++ per person for dinner only, 6.30-10pm,
T: 0361 701 888

Café Lagoon, The Laguna Nusa Dua: two Balinese cooking classes to choose from created by their award-winning executive chef I Made Putra. The Epicurean Exploration class includes a trip to a local food market and three-course Balinese lunch (US$ 95++), and the Exquisite Epicurean Class includes an introduction to Bali’s exotic spices and herbs and a three-course lunch (US$ 55++). Booking is a must. Every Friday, starts at 12 midday,
T: 0361 771 327

Kayumanis Restaurants: daily-themed dinners – Indonesian cuisine with keroncong (Jimbaran, Tapis Restaurant, US$ 40++), flavours from Italy (Nusa Dua, Piasan Restaurant, US$ 40++), picnic lunch in the woods (Ubud, Buahan Village, US$ 35++) and a barbeque of Balinese delicacies with live dance performances (Sanur, Gong Restaurant, US$ 40++),
T: 0361 705 777

Mata Air Café, Villa Air Bali: healthy-lunch set menu that includes Parma ham and organic vegetables, rolled chicken, tuna carpaccio, snapper Monte Carlo and many more. Booking also comes with a special discount on beverage purchases. Rp. 199,000++, T: 0361 737 378

Pesona Lounge, Grand Hyatt Bali: choose from a myriad of their quality spirits and create your own martinis.
Rp. 98,000++ per glass, daily 8-11pm,
T: 0361 771 234

cocktail

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what the fizz

a refreshing cocktail is the ultimate cure for all that ails you. hip hangout spot sea circus shares some tips on getting tipsy on their signature cocktails
text annisa dharma images robert dylan

the sea circus sparkler

Referred to as “naughtiness in a glass”, this drink is based on the Sgroppino, an Italian drink that is part lemon sorbet, part sparkling wine, 100 per cent refreshing.

60g / 1 scoop fruit sorbetto
30ml peach liqueur
75ml sparkling wine
4 cubes of ice

Throw it in the blender to get on
a three-day bender.

the pow wow

Although served in a vintage milk bottle, making it very look very innocent, this drink is anything but.

135ml gin
30ml lime juice
45ml lychee liqueur
225ml pineapple juice
30ml lychee syrup
3 slices fresh ginger

Add all ingredients to the milk bottle, then stir well and serve on the rocks in latté glasses. Garnish with lychees and pineapple leaves in the bottle.

dine for....

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lais

the setting
Nestled right in front of the most frequented beach on the island, Legian Beach Hotel stands in the middle of Kuta and Seminyak. The ocean view is paired with an interesting people-watching experience as you see groups of beachcombers migrate up and down the pre-sunset beach.

shakti dining room

the setting
Placed at the centre of Fivelements Puri Ahimsa healing centre, Shakti dining room is a treat for your mind, soul, and digestive tract. The inspiring architecture of predominant bamboo stretched and structured into flowing curves exudes an austere feeling of harmony between what is grown and what is built. Don’t limit yourself to just the restaurant, walk around the place and enjoy the wonderfully crafted structures that can be best described as a Willy Wonka-Swiss Family Robinson mash-up.

feyloon

the setting
Feyloon is right on Bemo Corner across the street from KFC on Jl. Raya Kuta. Its interior screams Cantonese, dominated by red and strong Hong Kong-inspired motifs. With large tables in a huge banquet setting, it’s the perfect place for large gatherings, because the only way to truly enjoy Chinese cuisine is to do it family style.

events 2....

2010-09-30T09:18:00.000-07:00

the kite runners at bali hyatt

This year marks the 14th Bali Hyatt Annual Kite Competition. All departments in the resort challenged each other with modern or traditional kite creations, and showcased their flying abilities under the warm Balinese sun.
On the day of the Kite Festival, the competition commenced with a parade from Bali Hyatt’s Telaga Naga Restaurant to the beachfront, where each department presented interesting performances
and attractions before flying their kites. The criteria for the kite competition included concept, creativity, design, colour, teamwork and, of course, the kite’s flying performance. Judges were invited from
travel agent partners, in-house guests, and
hotel management.

Bali Hyatt, Sanur, T: 0361 281 234, www.bali.resort.hyatt.com

hot yoga, hot dancers, hot rhythm

A new sanctuary devoted to creating a happy, healthy community through freedom of movement, asana, pranayama and meditation has opened in the heart of Petitenget. Jiwa Yoga and Dance offers classes for hot yoga, dance, and other healthy activities that promote physical and inner strength.

Jiwa Yoga and Dance, Jl. Petitenget no. 78, Kerobokan, T: 0361 841 3689,
www.jiwayogaanddance.com

a rendezvous with balimoon

On August 7, the Third Annual Bali Superyacht Rendezvous was held at the BPC City Hotel in Denpasar. BaliMoon Liqueurs hosted the event as the main sponsor, where more than 300 people attended to support some very special charities. This event is part of the Charity Rendezvous Series set up by The Yacht Support Group. BaliMoon and Indo Yacht Support surpassed expectations in funds raised and the chosen charities will receive an equal share of donations to further expand their goals this year. Food from the event was delivered to the Bali Street Kids Orphanage.

BaliMoon Liqueurs, T: 0361 283 840, www.balimoonliqueurs.net

we got the FEAR

Legendary front man of the Stone Roses, Ian Brown, gave a spectacular performance at Hard Rock Café in Kuta. The God-like genius showcased some of his most popular hits such as Corpses in Her Mouth, Golden Glaze, and FEAR to a screaming crowd that packed the venue end to end. Ian Brown did his famous monkey dance on stage while interacting with the fans and rocking the house.

Hard Rock Café, Jl. Pantai Kuta, T: 0361 761 869

an heir to the warisan

The acclaimed Warisan name has recently opened a gallery of their beautiful furniture and home décor collection. Warisan has been producing furniture since 1989. Also located within the gallery is a fine dining restaurant that boasts an exquisite atmosphere in line with the Warisan concept.

Warisan Living, Jl. Raya Kerobokan no. 68, Kerobokan, T: 0361 730 048, www.warisan.com

swiss-belhotel takes over bali kuta resort

Swiss-Belhotel International, a rapidly expanding international management company with over 60 hotels, resorts and projects in Asia Pacific and the Middle East took over the management of 251 international standard rooms in Kuta as of August 1.
The new property, Bali Kuta Resort by Swiss-Belhotel, is conveniently located in the heart of Kuta, 15 minutes away from the Ngurah Rai International Airport and five minutes from Kuta beach. The location of the hotel allows easy access to entertainment venues, tourist attractions, exclusive shopping and site seeing in Kuta, Legian, Seminyak and Nusa Dua.

Bali Kuta Resort by Swiss-Belhotel, Jl. Majapahit no. 18, Kuta, T: 0361 762 818, www.swiss-belhotel.com

sanur village festival cleans up

This year’s Sanur Village Festival began with an environmentally conscious activity: beach cleaning, which was held on Saturday, July 31. Along the shores of Sanur beach, students, workers of hotels and restaurants surrounding the area pitched in to clear the waste.
Mercure Resort Sanur was one of the proud participants of this eco-friendly activity, in line with their commitment to continuously support environment conservation initiatives.

Mercure Resort Sanur,
Jl. Mertasari, Sanur,
T: 0361 288 833

stars of guigal at karma kandara

Karma Kandara presented a wonderfully elegant wine-pairing dinner at di Mare restaurant hosted by Guigal’s roving ambassador Brett Crittenden. The rich and flavourful wines
from the France’s Rhone Valley were paired with an immaculate five-course meal created by their executive chef Simon Blaby.
In addition to a classically friendly crowd, a beautiful restaurant, and a luxurious atmosphere, it was indeed a night to remember.

Jl. Villa Kandara Banjar Wijaya Kusuma Ungasan, T: 0361 848 2200,
www.karmakandara.com

intercontinental bali’s temple anniversary

InterContinental Bali Resort recently celebrated the anniversary of its temple. This annual event was scheduled in accordance to the Balinese lunar calendar to coincide with the full moon. The day of the ceremony saw the resort’s Hindu community gather for a series of symbolic rituals and blessings performed by a high-caste priest. Colourful offerings of fruit and flowers were placed in the shrines within the temple complex to appease the Gods.

InterContinental Bali Resort, Jl. Uluwatu no. 45, Jimbaran, T: 0361 701 888, www.bali.intercontinental.com

the junction house music festival

The Junction House Music Festival hosted the sixth volume of its annual summer gathering in Bali for three days with over 3000 guests attending at various hot spots around the island. The festival saw performances by world class DJs such as Osunlade, Simon Dunmore, Gregory, Stevie G, Hideo Kobayashi and many more, including local talents Anton Wirjono, DJs Hogi and Downey. The Junction 2010 was hosted by Lupo Music, Future10 Productions and Pro Motion Events.
www.thejunctionbali.com

event....

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nusa dua fiesta
September 15 - October 19

Bali Tourism Development Corporation is putting on a festival in the most developmentally touristy place on the island, Nusa Dua. The festival organisers boast a green theme this year with a “beach plastic clean up”, Nusa Dua coral reef programmes, and “greening initiatives such as One Man, One Tree”. Also featured will be sporting events and a culinary challenge.
So be green, wash the island. www.balinusaduaresort.com

rock bar “jakarta crowd”night
September 18

Everyone’s favourite bar that’s perched on a rock reaches out to our city dwelling kin with DJ Chris Penny aka Cpen. Expect housey grooves with deep bass. Make sure you bring the most fashionable gear to match our neighbour’s status-obsessed society. Ayana Resort and Spa Bali, Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera Jimbaran,
T: 0361 702 222, www.ayanaresort.com

of readers and writers
Oct 6-10

The 2010 Citibank - Ubud Writers and Readers Festival will once again feature a host of established writers and a constellation of rising stars from Indonesia and around the globe. Among them, Man Booker Prize winners Thomas Keneally (1982) and Anne Enright (2007), journalist and BBC correspondent Kate Adie, historian and travel writer William Dalrymple, celebrated Chinese author Ma Jian, and veteran Indonesian man of letters Sitor Situmorang. If scintillating presentations, discussions and literary lunches are not enough, there are more than a dozen workshops for budding wordsmiths, while a series of evening events including play readings, a poetry slam, spoken word and rap performances, and a clamour of parties and dinners will keep tails and tongues wagging well into the night. The theme of this year’s festival is Bhinneka Tunggal Ika – Harmony in Diversity, and a tribute to one of Indonesia’s late great harmonisers, Abdurrachman Wahid (alias Gus Dur) will be another of the festival’s highlights www.ubudwritersfestival.com

fasting month
August 11– September 10

The holy month of Ramadhan is here and it’s time to respect the fact that even if you’re not fasting, some people are. Be kind to those people, Ramadhan is an expression of faith and spirituality, and you have to admire the willpower it takes to do an entire workday without eating and drinking

dance asia
September 1

Dance Asia, a dance studio-cum-café-cum-retail outlet, will celebrate its opening grandly on September 30. The opening celebration will feature (you guessed it) dance performances. Dancing fanatics and enthusiasts alike can mingle in what has been “dubbed as Bali’s newest dance hub” starting on September 1. Check out their location for dance class schedules.

Sunset Road 48B (between Jl. Kunti and Jl. Plawa), T: 03618475891

horace bristol exhibit
until october 4

Horace Bristol’s photography continues its exhibition throughout the month. Enjoy picturesque scenes of Indonesia in the late ‘30s that are sure to ease your mind away from the out-of-control development and traffic found in the world of today. Jalan Uluwatu ll, T: 0361 703311, www.jenggala.com

bellobono at biasa
Until September 15

Angelo Bellobono’s marvellous works of art are still on display until Sept 15 at Biasa Artspace. If you happen to be shopping in the Seminyak area (based on the tips in this shopping issue) drop in and take in some culture! Jl. Raya Seminyak No. 34, T: 0361 847 5766, www.biasaart.com

bikini martini
September 26

Royal Santrian is hosting a beach day with free flow martinis from 3 to 5 pm (Rp. 350,000). There is no cover charge and ladies will be able to enjoy one free watersport activity. Music will be provided by DJ Chill Out. From 10am – 6pm. Jl Pratama, Tanjung Benoa, T: 0361 778 181, www.theroyalsantrian.com

art of body
September 1

The first yoga-fit studio to open in Sanur is wide open for business. The studio will offer everything from “yoga to personal training, from Pilates to health retreats and gym concepts, of which aim is to inspire people to live healthy and balanced lives.” A wide variety of combination classes will be available so check out the website and sculpt your body into a piece of art and get fit! Hotel Puri Tempo Doeloe, Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 209, T:0361 286 542, www.theartofbody.com

abstract lines at ganesha
–October 4

Opening on September 2 at 6.30pm at
the Ganesha Gallery is the dual exhibition
of acclaimed abstract artists Ida Bagus
Urip Candrabayu and I Wayan Setem.
The paintings have little basis in the visual world around us but rely on the inner
workings of emotions inside the mind’s eye. Essentially, they are painted feelings;
so get all emotional at the Ganesha.

Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay,
T: 0361 701 010, www.fourseasons.com

no place like home......

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no place like home

from interviews with the movers and shakers of the island’s property industry to the a to z of building your own pad, here is all you need to know about making yourself a home in bali

saxon looker
sea sentosa and the layar
www.seasentosa.com, www.thelayar.com

on sea sentosa
Originally, my concept was to do villas because we [Sentosa Group] are known to be very good at it. But this particular site just doesn’t lend itself to it. So, what we’re doing instead is to try and make the most tasteful apartments as we possibly can. That’s why we have enlisted Patrick Blanc who is the foremost vertical garden specialist in the world. We’re trying to make everything as green as possible, as visually stunning as possible but at the same time as unobtrusive as possible to the beauty of the surrounding nature.

on the environment
Our aim is to be as environmentally responsible as we can. We will handle our waste in a responsible way meaning our water waste will have zero water pollution and we’re using power as smartly as possible. I have a personal connection to the site. I’m a surfer who surfs there every single day. Therefore, it’s very important for me how clean the rivers are.

on working with the local communities
The community [in the vicinity of the site] has actually been very actively involved with the design. It’s been a very interactive process. What the villagers have recommended for the development,
which we have adopted, has made it even better. We listen to what they have to stay about the height in relation to the temple, the aesthetics such as having certain things more Balinese and much more. We know how much
the status of the temple means to the community and this has to be respected and so are the wishes of the individual villager.

on developments in bali
I’m definitely for developments in Bali. I know there are those who are saying that all developments are bad. But if you want to take that position, we’d all be sitting down in Kuta. While some westerners are against the developments, the actual chief of the village is saying that the development is going to be really good for the community. I’m not suggesting that what the expats are saying between their yoga session and their massage is not to be listened to, but development for any place is important, especially for Bali, which depends on its tourism industry. But at the same time, you have to make it as responsible as possible. You have to make sure it relates to the community as well as it possibly can. And I know in Bali, it has to, otherwise your project won’t be a success.

and more about the layar
is it possible for the buyers of your property to personalise their purchase? Yes. Personalisation options include:
Shape of the swimming pool.
Shape and position of the garden Jacuzzi.
Layout of bathrooms, including possibility of air-conditioning.
Change/upgrade of flooring materials.
Upgrade of internal bathtub to Jacuzzi bathtub.

The best of bali Awards 2010

2010-09-30T09:09:00.000-07:00

best of bali

ah, the moment all you readers (and nominees) have been waiting for. the votes for the 2010 hellobali best of bali awards have been submitted by the judges and have been counted and double-checked. here we present to you the list of winners, with a comprehensive vote count just so you know where they stand.
envelope, please. and the award goes to…

the judges

Our panel of judges is quite vast, although some prefer to stay anonymous. However, there are some judges that have agreed to be mentioned, as listed below:

Chris Salans, chef owner of Mozaic Restaurant
Jose Luis Calle, general manager of The Balé and The Amala
Guy Bedarida, head designer and creative director of John Hardy Jewellery
Kim Randall, director of Kendra Gallery of Contemporary Arts
Mark Kuan, owner of Delicious Onion
Peter Stephenson, culturalist-cum-writer
Nobuyuki Narabayashi, head designer of Desain 9
I Made Putra, executive chef of The Laguna Nusa Dua
Darren Lauder, executive chef of Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa
Malik Lomax, DJ extraordinaire
Judy Chapman, wellness and spa curator at Karma Resorts
Martin East, DJ and music producer
Tipi Jabrik, professional surfer
Annisa Dharma, editor of hellobali
Unggul Hermanto, editor-in-chief of hellobali.

hellobali readers’ most favourite chef
Winner: Christian Hinckley, executive chef of Amandari
Runner up: Simon Blaby, executive chef of Karma Kandara

Best fine-dining restaurant Restaurants that serve delicious food with a side of class
Winner: Il Ristorante, The Bvlgari Resort (33.33%)

Best casual-dining restaurant Affordable cuisine in a comfortable setting
Winner: Sardine (40%)

Best new restaurant
The newbie that proves to be a goodie, in all aspects mentionable. This restaurant is preferably not more than two years old
Winner: MÉTIS (46.67%)

Best place to boogie
Venues that have an ample-sized dance floor, good live music, lively atmosphere, and, most importantly, the boogie factor
Winner: Hu’u Bar (40%)

Best place to get wasted
Venues that encourage, support, and fight for your right to party. Consider the quality and variety of drinks
Winner: The Living Room (33.33%)

Best new bar or club
Recently opened bars or clubs that have made a statement in the scene
Winner: Rock Bar (53.33%)

Best party
Quite simply, events that rocked the island in the past year
Winner: The Junction House Music Festival (40%)

Best original cocktail
Many venues offer original masterpieces in the art of mixing, we would like to know which cocktails from which venues are the favourite creations of many
Winner: Bali Mary at the St Regis Bali Resort (33.33%)

Most magical fingers
Spas that offer the best, most divine massages and rubdowns, without all the frills and thrills
Winner: Jari Menari (33.33%)

Best new hotel or villa
Newly established accommodation that truly makes the hospitality industry proud
Winner: Alila Villas Uluwatu (60%)

Hotel or villa with the best design
Accommodation that stands out for its aesthetic features (interior design, architecture, and overall décor)
Winner: Alila Villas Uluwatu (53.33%)

Most original cuts in a fashion label
Fashion labels that have the most cutting-edge and unique cuts, shapes and structures for their clothing
Winner: BIASA (40%)

Most avant-garde accessories
Trinkets that possess beautiful and innovative designs
Winner: Jemme (26.67%) & John Hardy Jewellery (26.67%)

Greenest establishment
Companies, organisations, venues that support and effectively practice an eco-friendly attitude
Winner: The Green School (45.45%) & Ibuku Bamboo by Design (45.45%)

Best arts and culture event or festival
Events and/or festivals that successfully promoted, cultivated and displayed the arts and culture of the island in all forms imaginable
Winner: The Ubud Writers and Readers Festival (60%)

Valley of The Gods

2010-03-03T20:52:00.000-08:00

mount agung looks down on me with her majestic eye while i take in the astounding beauty of the bagus agro pelaga property, the island’s first ever agro-tourism site

A good view of the Golden Bridge – Bali’s longest (360 metres) and highest (85 metres from the river below) bridge built in 2003, almost eight years ago – leaves a somewhat melancholic, yet admiring imprint on the long-term memory segment of my grey matter.

As far as my eyes can see, there are forests and magnificent fields filled with organic fruits, vegetables and flowers, and one of the most amazing valleys I have ever come across. All that gorgeous colour and greenery is kept bright and shiny through the resort’s drip irrigation system, which is quite different from the usual subak method. The drip irrigation system enables precise water delivery and helps adjust the water supply for particular plants, thus increasing the efficiency in water usage and distribution.

Bagus Agro Pelaga’s agricultural beauty is spread out over 18 hectares of prolific land, of which more than 17 hectares is used for organic farming. Being 750 metres above sea level – in the mountain range of Pucak Mangu – Pelaga village invites you to enjoy its fresh mountain air and extraordinary panoramic views. Cattle, such as cows, pigs, domestic chickens and fish, are raised on the property in order to support the area’s Organic Farming System. Along with those efforts to prop up the wellbeing of our planet, Bagus Agro Pelaga offers a wide and varied range of fun environmentally friendly activities, such as guided treks around its extensive grounds, visits to the impressive Nungnung Waterfall (a 500-metre-high waterfall in the centre of a remote forest), white water rafting on the Ayung River, cycling, adventurous jungle treks, camping trips, traditional products demonstrations (making coconut oil demonstration, making Balinese cake Lak Lak demonstration, etc), a visit to the Elephant Park of Carangsari, and so much more.

Benefiting from healthy organic dishes is possible at no less than five restaurants on the Bagus property. Even environment-friendly shopping can also be done on the property. The sizeable Agro Shop features products, which includes vegetables and fruits, seeds, cut flowers, tabulapot (flowers of fruit planted in a small pot), and modern agricultural tools. •

Bagus Discovery Main Office
Jl. Ngurah Rai no. 300b, Tuban
T: 0361 761 877, 0361 751 223
E: info@bagus-discovery.com
www.bagus-discovery.com

Fish Out of Water

2010-03-03T20:50:00.000-08:00

it’s always very smoky and it feels hot when it’s too crowded, but it’s so good, the only thing you care about is the food on your plate…

Tables on the sand, the smell of coconut husks grilling fish, the occasional fireworks, the cheap wine, the cold beer, piles of empty plates and of course the great seafood bites, all make a great Jimbaran beachside dining experience. These joints don’t really care if they should serve food from your right or left side, or that your wine glass needs a second refill. Their charm lies in how their food is simple yet good. They go with the philosophy which believes that if your palate is pleased, nothing else matters.

Evidently, it works. The plethora of seafood restaurants that currently dot the Jimbaran coastline is a major destination for anyone visiting Bali. It’s on the recommendation list of all travel guides. In certain ways, it almost defines Jimbaran.

Looking at this phenomenon, it’s hard to imagine that it all started with one man. In fact, maybe even the entire economic picture of Jimbaran would have been much different without one great idea that exponentially blossomed.

It all started in the mid 80s along the sandy shores of Jimbaran Bay. A young fisherman named Nyoman Bagi’s would guide tourists on small fishing trips on his small boat in the bay. The tourists and Nyoman would fish and take their catch back to shore where the Balinese man would make a fire on the beach and grill the fish for his clients as part of the fishing trip.

It then occurred to him that if he set up a cold drink stand right next to where he grilled his fish, the clients would buy the refreshments as he served their catch. This infinitesimally small idea marks the very beginning of all the grilled fish warungs in present day Jimbaran; much like an infinitesimally small spore implanting itself onto a rock can spawn into a giant coral reef.

In 1987, Nyoman decided to actually grill and sell fish and turned his enterprise into a tiny one-table shack and dubbed it Ramayana. As time wore on and more and more fish were grilled, the shack slowly evolved into a slightly bigger shack, trading out pieces of bamboo and a tarp roof for slightly bigger pieces of bamboo and a thatched roof.

It was at this stage when a Swiss queen came to his shack and tried his delicious grilled fish and wrote him a royal endorsement, an honour which he proudly keeps till this day. Nyoman recalls, “Swiss people would be so surprised to see this certificate, they’d round up all their friends and take them to my café.”

With all things in Bali, original ideas don’t stay original for too long. Soon another grilled fish shack opened up next to Ramayana, followed by another. In 1996, the Bupati decided to move the restaurants to a different location as to not interfere with hotel development. They were allowed different slots on the beach much as how it looks today.

A couple of years later, the Desa decided to build structures behind the restaurants that became shops and kitchens. As demand for more space to build other seafood cafés grew, every available space was turned into a kitchen to support the ever-multiplying restaurants on the beach. This was how a lonely drink shack on a beach evolved into the mass of seafood restaurants you see today.

When asked about what he thought of the all the new restaurants in the format that he essentially started, Nyoman commented, “as long as it’s still healthy and there are still customers, it’s a good thing.”

Today there are 52 seafood restaurants in Jimbaran where tourists and locals alike regularly get treated to fresh seafood grilled on coconut husks. The format of each restaurant is pretty much the same with variations in the sauces and trimmings one can get. All the seafood is from the local Jimbaran fish market located on the beach. Typical establishments offer a variety of recently caught fish, lobster, squid, prawns, clams and crab with salad, morning glory, potatoes and rice. Most seafood is lathered with a generous amount of chili sauce which, combined with the smokiness of the coconut husks, gives the seafood its unique taste. Chilli-phobics need not worry, you can request the concentration of the spice on your meal.

Once you’ve picked a restaurant that seems right for you, the first thing to do is pick your fish. To ensure freshness, the opaqueness of the eyes is a good indicator of how recently your dinner was caught. Dishes are mainly served “family style” where they are placed in the middle and diners divvy up the food. The restaurants may look almost identical, but each one has its own unique way of doing things.

No matter which establishment you choose, the immediate impression you get is of a chilled laid back dining experience, with the novelty of actually selecting your own food to be barbequed for you. It is an essential stop for any seafood lover visiting the island. Therefore, these restaurants are perfect for a casual dinner with friends, family, or a tour bus group. Tables are laid directly on the sand where customers can watch the iridescent sunsets and spot newly arriving tourists on planes landing in Ngurah Rai international. The oceanfront setting is also littered with colourful fishing boats dotting the bay from the beach to the horizon. The atmosphere is also augmented by a four-piece guitar band that serenades diners with hit cover songs. As night falls, the open setting lets you eat under the equatorial stars.

Thousands upon thousands of tourists and locals visit Jimbaran beach every year specifically to eat its now famous seafood. An entire local economy has benefited from both jobs created and the revenue harvested from what started off as a humble fisherman, grilling fish. If you haven’t done it, then chances are you will soon. •

You can find Ramayana, the original fish grilling shack, at Jl. Pemelisan Agung. It’s the third restaurant from the right if you’re facing the beach. T: 0361 702 859

The Art of Profit

2010-03-03T20:49:00.000-08:00

art is a very subjective matter, as it is usually created based on inspiration and ideas, which can’t be quantitatively measured. however, these days, it seems there is a monetary value for everything, and enlightenment is simply a price tag away

Do not be misled by art critics, art historians, curators, collectors, gallery owners and auction houses who wax euphoric as they praise artists for their powerful brush strokes, brilliant colour combinations, striking compositions and profound (but often hidden) meanings. While the ultimate judgement of an artist’s importance should be based on his (or her) originality, relevance and ability to forge diverse influences into their own vision of something new, fresh and meaningful – make no mistake the real criteria that drives the art market in Bali and elsewhere is nothing less than MONEY!

Now that the truth is out, let’s consider the playing field. First, let’s exclude dead expatriates, like the legendary Walter Spies, whose small gem-like paintings have sold for over a million dollars for years. Once the topper, his record prices were surpassed a few years ago by Adrian Jean Le Mayeur de Merprés, whose large oils now fetch double. If one considers that if you see one you’ve seen them all, this is a stark testimony to the fact that talent and originality do not necessarily have anything to do with art prices.

Anyway, this is all irrelevant for our quest because these guys were not even Balinese. Furthermore, they have an unfair advantage because deceased artists don’t paint anymore. In the dog eat dog Adam Smith market, this means limited supply and ever-rising prices as long as there are more buyers than sellers.
A naïve person might believe justifiably that the most valuable Balinese artist dead or alive would be one of the greats of the Pitamaha period, such as Gusti Lempad or Ida Bagus Made Poleng who worked at the same time as Spies and Le Mayeur. Sadly, this is not the case.

Even though these masters are represented in international collections like at the MoMA in New York and have long been cremated, their works have rarely fetched more than a low five figures in spite of their outrageous importance – again a sad reflection of the priorities of collectors of Indonesian art.

The next generation of Balinese painters of note were those like Nyoman Gunarsa and Made Wianta who, instead of learning in the villages, attended modern academies in the 1970s and, in Wianta’s case, travelled abroad. Notably, the usual venues for their shows in the still very ethnocentric West were not contemporary art museums, but rather the old ethnological museums looking for a new identity to hide their colonial origins. The irony was not lost on some. Nevertheless, both men would go on to achieve critical and financial success.

In recent years, however, a new phenomenon has gripped the Indonesian art market as several young Indonesian and Balinese artists, like Putu Sutawijaya, gained international attention as established names who have achieved steady high prices in sales rooms and galleries.

Admittedly these artists benefited from the huge wave of interest in Asian artists, which began with Chinese contemporary artists who took the West by storm. As testimony to their own abilities, while Chinese art suffered a major setback after the fall of the Lehmann Brothers and financial crisis in 2008, Indonesian artists have fared far better.

By far the absolute King of the Hill is I Nyoman Masriadi, a young Balinese artist. Much to the shock (and jealousy) of many, his coronation took place in October 2008 when one of his large canvasses titled The Man from Bantul, the Monster sold for the world record price of US$ 1,006,356 in Sotheby’s Hong Kong, setting the record as the highest price ever paid, not only for a Balinese artist alive or dead but for any living artist in South-East Asia. The record, succeeded by more big sales, has left many people kicking themselves as they rue their failure to purchase his work when it was selling for only 20 or 30 million rupiah a painting.

A taciturn introvert, Masriadi, who dropped out of Jogjakarta’s prestigious ISI art academy after his professors labelled him untalented, is definitely an outsider. Ironically, while his reputation continues to soar in the East and West with a major exhibition in Singapore and glowing articles in Newsweek, Time and The New York Times, Masriadi himself seems to have evoked much more jealously than admiration in Indonesia.

An ugly example of this was heard during a symposium sponsored by an Indonesian art magazine to help Indonesian artists prepare for globalisation.

Rather than seeing Masriadi as a knight in shining armour who had knocked down the castle walls thus allowing other Indonesian artists to follow, the participants preferred to speculate that his international success was not based on sheer talent and hard work but rather shady nefarious plots hatched by Chinese and foreign middlemen. One expert even scoffed that nobody would pay so much for an artwork by an Indonesian!

At this point we get into psychology, another subject altogether. That said, it is no wonder so many of Masriadi’s paintings are of fight scenes and invincible super heroes. As his star continues to rise he might want to consider getting into intergalactic travel. •

A Pachyderm Experience

2010-03-03T20:36:00.001-08:00

a trip to lampung, the lesser known part of sumatra, takes you on a walk through the rainforest on a large mammal with a long trunk and tusks, and plays football

Situated on the southernmost tip of Sumatra, Lampung is often overlooked as a tourist destination. Holiday and adventure seekers usually head northward to see the picturesque Lake Toba, the furry orang-utans of Bukit Lawang or the underwater beauty of Pulau Weh. Therefore, the idea of a road trip made me a bit hesitant. But intrigued. Nonetheless, on paper, the trip looked quite interesting: a festival, an elephant ride and a jungle trek. Not bad.

Only when I got to this trip’s assembly point did I realise that it was going to be an eight-hour bum-numbing journey each way. Leaving from Jakarta, we were to take a 2.5-hour drive to Merak Harbor, a 2.5-hour ferry-ride across the Sunda strait, land in Bakuheni Port and then take another three-hour drive to Way Kambas.

The first leg was fine, conversation was good and a few playlists on my iPod later, we reached Merak. The ferry-ride was surprisingly pleasant. It’s a roll-on/ roll-off ferry, meaning, our car got onto the ferry, entered the belly and we could walk around the upper decks.

Before the ferry set off, some local boys entertained us by diving off the ferry into the deep waters below for some spare change. Great stunts from these kids but at the same time it tugged on my heart that they had to risk their lives for some small change.

We passed the beautiful and scenic islands across the Sunda Strait and even caught a glimpse of Krakatau volcano on the way. A mesmerising sunset greeted us while on the ferry, making me momentarily forget that we had passed the five-hour mark.

The drive from Bakuheni to Way Kambas along the hilly trans-Sumatra highway would have been beautiful, but since we were driving at night, it was quite boring. We finally got to our hotel, tired and hungry, lower body numb. After a bit of socialising, I set off to bed. The next day would be a long one.

The town of Way Kambas celebrates the uniqueness of the flora and fauna of the area and the rich diversity of the different cultures in Lampung each year with the Way Kambas Festival. As soon as we arrived at the festival grounds, six of the biggest guests immediately greeted us: six Sumatran elephants from the Way Kambas National Park’s Elephant Conservation Centre. After some lengthy speeches from the Minister of Culture and other government officials the festival finally kicked off. A number of cultural dances were performed and a tableau on the transmigration of various peoples from Java and Bali to Lampung and Sumatra Island was staged.

Of course, the real stars of the show were the elephants. The crowd eventually gravitated to the pachyderms, posing for photos, watching them perform minor tricks. The highlight of the day was the three-on-three football match these animals played. Everyone was enthralled, including me.

Done with the culture part of the day, we headed to the National Park after a quick lunch for the adventure part. Located south of the Barisan Hills, the nearby Way Kambas National Park, is a 130,000 hectare reserve consisting of swampland and lowland rain forest established in 1972. Within the reserve are the Elephant Conservation Centre and the Sumatran Rhino Sanctuary. The adventure part of the day included a jungle trek, a boat ride and a night elephant safari.

The jungle trek took us deep into the rainforest. According to our guide, there are still around 300 wild Sumatran elephants in this reserve. So we had to be careful. Every time we would pass a known elephant crossing, he would remind us to give-way to the elephants if we saw one. As if any of us would dare play tag with a wild elephant. Aside from the elephants, the forest is home to a wide variety of wildlife.

It is said to be a birdwatchers delight. Among the bird species which can be found in the park include the white-winged duck, the storm stork, the desert adjutant stork and a number of owls. Unfortunately, we didn’t see any of these although maybe we weren’t really looking.

The 90-minute trek was easy. The only problem was the leeches. Yeah, leeches. Tiny suckers. The forest was teeming with them. If you weren’t careful, you’d miss them. But they won’t miss you. They wait for their victims, tiny mouths open. These little suckers latch onto the victim’s skin, break it and they secrete an anti-coagulant substance which stops your blood from coagulating so they can freely suck your blood. I came in hiking sandals and was actually very cautious when walking around. When we got back to camp I felt an itch under the strap of my sandal, checked it out and found a not so tiny bloated sucker, peacefully filling up from my ankle. It was a war wound and I was proud of it.

We also took a short boat ride up the Way Kanan River which runs through the Park. A number of monkeys and colourful birds made an appearance. And as the sun was setting, our guide announced that we had to head back to camp since we didn’t want to be in the forest at dark. Who would?

After a simple dinner prepared by the camp staff, we were off to the Elephant Conservation Centre for our night safari. At present, there are 62 elephants under the care of the Centre, six of these are babies. Each elephant has an assigned trainer, his job is to wash, feed and teach little tricks to his charge daily. The night we were there, there were 20 of us going on the night safari. Each of us was to get onto an elephant, driven by its trainer. The “boarding” area had two tall concrete stairs which led up to a platform, from the landing, one could easily get onto the elephants.

I chose a big one called Mambo, a 20-year-old male with long tusks. After the initial excitement of everyone getting onto their elephants, the real adventure started. Convoy style, the elephants formed a single line and headed for the forest. The pachyderms are trained to walk in line. To get them in line, each trainer is armed with a tiny flashlight. They light up a path for the elephants to see the other elephant in front and violà, 20 elephants in a line. Single file the elephants and their giddy passengers walked quietly into the forest. Once my eyes got accustomed to the darkness, I looked up. It was a magnificent night. Never had I seen the sky this clear this clear and bright. I could make up constellations of and stars. And what made it more grand was that I was soaking up this view from atop an elephant.

We made our way through some trees and to the flatlands. Then all of a sudden, my trainer asked me to hold onto his shoulders. This was when I discovered where we were. At the edge of a river. We were going to cross.

I held tight onto the trainer’s shoulders as Mambo made his way down to the riverbed. With water rushing around me, our line of pachyderms made their way across the river. When we got to the other side, the elephants again climbed out of the river onto the bank of the river. As I looked behind me, I marvelled at the sight of the long line of elephants walking through the forest and river. An unbelievable sight. I guess the eight-hour journey to get here was worth it, even if just for this experience.

The line of elephants went through the forest for a bit longer or maybe it was too long, since my thighs and bum were getting sore. On our way back to the Centre, we caught a glimpse of the baby elephants playing around, again a truly moving sight.
I went to bed quite happy and fulfilled. When I woke up, it dawned on me, I had another eight-hour journey back home. •

The office of the Way Kambas National Park’s Elephant Conservation Centre is on Jl. Raya Way Jepara, Labuan Ratu Lama, Lampung, Sumatra. T: 0725 44220.

Spa Deals

2010-03-03T20:31:00.000-08:00

destination: the patra bali
Destination spa is a thorough treatment that offers three specific programmes: rejuvenation, stress management and detoxification. These new programmes include a range of beach activities, cycling, horse-riding, fitness and golf – all designed to integrate wellness of being through body and mind exercises along with the consumption of good healthy natural food. All spa programmes have been carefully designed by Gaya Spa specialists.
Rejuvenation is a program designed for refreshment through natural therapy; stress management utilises relaxation therapy; and detoxification is designed to improve health by getting rid of toxins from the body or even losing weight through diet management, colonic reduction and lowering cholesterol with herbal treatments.

The Patra Bali Resort & Villas, Jl. Ir H Juanda, Kuta, T: 0361 751 161, www.patrabali.com

opulent oriental indulgence
The Mandara Spa at Nikko Bali Resort & Spa offers a wide range of Bali massages and body treatments that can be enjoyed in one of eight well-appointed Bali spa villas or at the beach-side bale.
Their Ultimate Indulgence spa package is to die for - an exotic, luxurious and unforgettable celebration of indulgence consisting of aromatherapy footbath, lavender body wash, traditional body scrub, a choice of aromatherapy floral bath or herbal steam, a signature Mandara massage, foot Massage, and the icing on the cake, a refresher facial.

Nikko Bali Resort & Spa, Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, Nusa Dua, T: 0361 773 37

cruise to relaxation
Spa Bali Cruise is a unique concept that combines two of life’s most indulgent pleasures cruising Bali’s coastal waters and partaking in a nurturing spa session of traditional healing and beauty rituals.
Their Fresh Lemon Ritual is a treatment using hot stone massage as the main highlight. Hot stone massage is an ancient treatment that is powerfully therapeutic. It employs a technique utilizing smooth, heated basalt stones which are placed on specific acupressure points on the body to melt away knots, tension and stress. Hot stone massage is based on the oldest form of East Asian massage known as anma, that involves long and flowing stokes using stones instead of hand pressure.

Spa Bali Cruise, Bali Marina, Jl. Wisata Tirta, Pelabuhan Benoa, www.spabalicruise.com

sweet like chocolate
Treat the little ones to a scrumptious dose of relaxation. Anantara Spa’s Chocolate Massage for kids ages two to 12 years old starts off with a footbath ritual and helps to release tiredness and tension for the active kiddies. With a sumptuous and gentle chocolate massage oil, this 30-minute treatment package will help to mellow out the young’ins.

Anantara Spa, Jl. Dhyana Pura, T: 0361 737 773

Taman Merah "A Rosy-red Glow"

2010-03-03T20:28:00.000-08:00

taman merah, which translates into red garden, is a contemporary wellness and beauty hub. affordable and homey, this spa will get you ready to paint the town a radiant red

the look
Akin to their contemporary wellness theme, Taman Merah Spa’s décor is very clean-cut. Red dominates the colour palette of their interiors, but with a balance so as to give my eyes a screaming bloodshot itch.

I have always thought of minimalist interior design as an excuse to not put in too much of an endeavour, and there is a fine line between finely designed minimalist interiors and those that just scream “low-budget-low-effort!”, but Taman Merah Spa is definitely not the latter.

The path leading to the front doors are stone steps set in a way so that they seem to be floating on a beautiful flow of water. In fact, water flows through each of their treatment rooms, granting me calming sounds of splashing tranquillity.

the touch
I was treated to the Taman Merah Glow package, which entailed me to a 30-minute sauna to get rid of toxins, an hour-long Balinese massage, a carrot body scrub and was finished off with a papaya enzyme body mask to polish down the skin and give it a warm, even-toned glow.

The massage was of the right pressure, with the masseuse climbing on the bed to fully coax my tense muscles into sedation.

The carrot body scrub and papaya enzyme body polish were the highlights of the whole treatment though. The therapist applied the papaya enzyme elixir onto my body with a large, soft brush, and that alone tickled my fancy, but that’s only the beginning; I could literally feel the enzymes working on my skin, as it felt tingly, like my pores were being cleaned out by a cool breeze.

the ingredients
I chose the Tropical Oceanic essential oil, which has a more refreshing sweet scent. The other option offered by the spa is the Musk Oceanic oil, which smells, well, musky.
Taman Merah Spa’s treatment products are all natural, as were my carrot scrub and papaya enzyme body polish, which makes it safe to repeat the treatment a couple of times per month.

the exceptional
I must say that the best part about the Taman Merah Glow treatment was the look on my face as I looked in the mirror afterwards. My skin was literally glowing, which resulted in a smile on my face. It’s a rarity to have a beauty treatment work so instantly, so I was giddy.

I looked radiant, an even-toned tan-like colour emanating from my shoulders and cheeks and the rest of my body. Even my legs (which were bruised from a previous bike accident) looked more vibrant than before the treatment.

The spa manager explained that the more often you do this treatment, the better your skin will look. I totally believe her – and I won’t take her word for it. As Arnold Schwarzenegger said, “I’ll be back.” •

Taman Merah Glow is priced at Rp. 750,000

Taman Merah Spa, Jl. Petitenget,
no. 469, Kerobokan, T: 0361 736 656, www.islandvillasbali.com

Free Wyllie

2010-03-03T20:26:00.000-08:00

hamish daud wyllie is a fun-loving, carefree, silly man, but he’s also the creative director of tarita furniture, one of the largest furniture companies on the island, an architect-cum-designer with saka designs, and an art aficionado with a charitable heart at the age of 30.

so who is hamish daud wyllie? How about I give you a brief surface rundown. Currently, I am design director at Saka – which focuses on architecture and design. I am also creative director of Tarita Furniture. My mother was born in Singapore to Boyanese parents (an island north of Madura, Central Java) and my father is Australian. I’ve been based here in Bali since I was a baby but spent time travelling between Jakarta, Singapore and Sydney.

how do you balance out all these businesses, have a life and manage to not burn out? Well, I’ve pretty much mastered the art of looking busy [laughs]. No, I really owe much of my work credit to my partners Novan and Aan and the rest of the team from Saka Designs and Tarita. We all have something to bring to the table and have respect for each other’s visions. Respecting each other at work is very important.

Being in Bali, there are always ways to unwind. But if I see a gap in the schedule, I usually try and head down to Sumba to visit my dad. He usually has his ways of clearing my mind and looking at things differently.

what is your passion in life? Learning, seeing, touching, and tasting new things in life. You need to learn something everyday. So, I guess I love to tell stories about the journey.

I’m currently working very closely with Arief Rabik of Indo Bamboo (Linda Garland) on ways to push sustainability into our industries – both design and architecture. Subjects such as bamboo and other low-emission categorised products and ideas are exciting the possibilities of our future. I pretty much learn something new every time I come over to his house!

you were busy with setting up a new studio, what is that about? Well, the studio is a new chapter for Tarita Furniture. Now, under the same roof, we provide architectural services focusing on both the hospitality industry and private residential projects. The space is a hub for clients and designers to come in with an idea, and we basically execute it for them.

tell me more about blowing smoke, the exhibition/ auction/ fundraiser taking place this month at tarita studio. There are over 30 established artists donating work to this exhibition so we should see some cool things. All proceeds will be donated to the Narayan Seva childrens home in Singaraja. Two women who have dedicated their lives to sheltering built this place, educating and nurturing marginalized and disadvantaged children in an all encompassing approach.

Art has always been a great platform with helping charities. It also allows up and coming artists to get exposure. I think it’s a healthy relationship between everyone involved.

what are your hobbies? Food and laughter. I would have said surfing, but it just gets too crowded here these days.

what are you busy with at the moment? We have a few projects on at the moment in the region and abroad. I have this jinx thing that every time I talk something up before completion, it crumbles. Promise to tell you once I’m done, though!

what do you think about bali’s current wave of spiritual tourism? Well, to me, it’s funny that tourism has only just now tapped into this niche. Spirituality is something most of us grew up with here; I just hope that Bali and its culture don’t get exploited anymore than it has. However, if tastefully done and capturing the right amount of nostalgia and knowledge, it could be a winner.

recently, the tourism industry in bali has exploded and developments are sprouting everywhere, what do you think of that? I think as far as development, we went through a shocking couple of years where money was pouring in almost too quickly (post-bombings) and the lack of vision and site planning caused upsetting design and infrastructure or lack thereof.

Bali is an affordable place to holiday, bringing in people from all ends of the world. I think the Balinese people are strong enough to maintain their values and not get too fussy about wild holidaymakers. Thankfully, Kuta and Seminyak are a very small aspect of Bali – tourism-wise.

A firmer council regulation would be great in order to control developments sprouting too quickly without much thought to the surrounding environment. Let’s keep Bali beautiful!

what will you be doing on nyepi (seclusion day)? Nyepi is a sacred and holy day here, so we usually spend our time exploding fireworks and being completely mad. I’m kidding. No, I’m guessing I’ll be with a close group of friends somewhere nice.

where do you see yourself in five years? The future hasn’t happened yet and the past is gone. So I think the only moment we have is right here and now, and I try to make the best of those moments – the moments that I’m in. I think Annie Lennox said that. That’s pretty much where my head is at. •

Check out www.tarita.com and www.sakadesigngroup.com to learn more about Hamish Daud Wyllie’s work

What's on calender...?

2010-03-03T20:15:00.000-08:00

bali island villas gets revamped

Bali Island Villas, a private complex of ten self-contained luxury villas located in the heart of Seminyak now features a spa-styled Jacuzzi for heightened relaxation in each villa. There is also high-speed Internet service available that operates on a 24-hour basis.

Jl. Petitenget no. 469, Seminyak, T: 0361 736 656

I wayan wicaya of bvlgari bali resort wins global chef title

The Global Chefs Challenge is the largest single chefs’ competition in the world, sponsored by the World Association of Chefs Societies (WACS) and every two years, the finalists from the seven regions of the world take to the stoves to prepare a four-course dinner for 12 people to exacting standards. The six other Global Finalists were from Norway, Canada, Portugal, Holland, Dubai, and Australia.
I Wayan Wicaya explains, “Winning the title of Global Chef Asia was one of the highlights of my career. I remembered to stay calm and focussed and just did my best. It was an amazing experience and I am very happy for myself and for my colleagues who have supported me and given me the confidence to take on this great challenge.”

Bvlgari Bali Resort, Jl. Goa Lempeh, Uluwatu, T: 0361 847 1000

ku de ta goes audiovisual for a good cause

The prominent beachside venue hosted a DJ marathon and contemporary art event on Feb 26 to raise money for I’m An Angel, a Bali-based charity.
The eight-hour DJ marathon saw the likes of Donni One, Billy the Kid, DJ Stuart, Kevin Kloer, Stevie G and Wayne Wonder working the funk and donating their earnings to the cause. Internationally acclaimed urban graffiti artist, David Walker performed an explosive live art show on a two by two metre canvas. The finished piece will be auctioned on July 31, with all proceeds generously being donated to I’m An Angel.

KU DE TA, Jl. Laksmana no. 9, Seminyak, T: 0361 736 969

art with heart

On Valentine’s Day, the Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali showed love by displaying a vibrant collection of paintings by a rising new talent – Ms. Linda Satya. All works showcased were on sale and the funds raised during this one day charity initiative were donated to the Salam Children’s Home in Tabanan to help cover daily operational costs.
The Salam Children’s Home currently provides a nurturing environment for 50 underprivileged children of different ethnic backgrounds from across the Indonesian archipelago. It relies on community based funding to educate the children and give them the chance of a brighter future.

Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali, Jl. Wana Segara no. 33, Tuban, T: 0361 755 577

michelin star chef marcello fabbri at the st regis

Michelin Guide award-winning Marcello Fabbri presented a six-course, wine matched degustation dinner sensation at the Valentine’s Gourmet weekend at the resort’s Kayuputi Restaurant. This two-day gourmet gala saw an unforgettable dining experience for the romantic as the Chef extraordinaire invented a culinary extravaganza with his creative flair, which extended to cold pea mint soup with chestnuts. Kayuputi Restaurant, St. Regis Resort Bali, Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot S6, Nusa Dua, T: 0361 847 8111

lucky charms
march 19
The rainbow ends at Hu’u Bar’s St Patrick’s Day festivities. Indulge in their green cocktail specials, Guinness specials and great music tracks all night long. Catch leprechauns starting from 10pm until late.
Rp. 100,000 cover charge. Drink specials all night.

Hu’u Bar, Jl. Oberoi, Petitenget, T: 0361 736 443, www.huubali.com

transubstantiation: a collaboration
Until March 7

Coming from different generations and cultural backgrounds, S Teddy D and Daniel Flanagan are collaborating together to present their works on Transubstantiation. Although, empirically unchanged, the main idea is about presenting how their artworks interact one to another.
Both artists depict through their
dialogue that a painting is a complex image that can either be simplified or complicated but in the end, it is a small fragment of
the mind of its artist.

Kendra Gallery of Contemporary Art,
Jl. Drupadi no. 88b, Seminyak, T: 0361 736 628

embracing nature’s poem: a solo exhibition by nyoman sujana kenyem
March 4

Since his appearance on the scene in
the 90s, Kenyem has won national and international praise for the poetic beauty of his canvasses. The subject of each of his images, mirrored in titles like Touch, Smile and Nostalgia are inevitably highly personal visualisations of feelings and emotions. Swirling leaves, flowers, tiny human figures and luminous celestial
bodies flow with grace and beauty like the reflection of the moon in running water.

Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resort
Jimbaran Bay, T: 0361 701 010

an artcoustic wednesday
Every Wednesday
Beat the midweek madness with freestyle music by KACIR DUNIA KETIGA, set in a beautiful garden setting and laidback artsy ambience.
Hosted by the musically proficient Yarri Satja, this weekly event is the perfect way to stomp out the Wednesday blues. Starts at 8pm until 11pm.

Art Café, Jl. Sari Dewi no. 17, Seminyak, T: 0361 736 751

silence is golden
March 16
Nyepi is the Balinese New Year, otherwise called Icaka New Year, the day of total silence throughout the island. No activity, no traffic at all on the roads, no fire or lights may be lit for 24 hours. Great purification and sacrificial rites are held the day before so as to exorcise evil spirits from every corner of the island.

a feast by the lagoon
March 16
Explore the finest four-course set menu presented in Western style specially created during Nyepi night at Nusa Bagus Island, an exclusive venue located in the middle of lagoons and surrounded by an impressive view across the tropical gardens. Ravioli, baby lobsters, beef tenderloin are a few dishes that will be served.
Priced at Rp. 500,000 per person (without wine pairing) and Rp. 800,000 per person (including wine pairing).

The Laguna, Kawasan Pariwisata Lot N2, Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 327

moonshine rhythms
March 23
Specialists in African Drumming, Hamanah have over five years experience in the Australian market and are now based fulltime in Indonesia. They are Indonesia’s first African drum and dance company and endorsed by African drummer/dancer Sibo Bangoura of Guinea, Africa. cJoin their Full Moon Party in Canggu on this night for an organic, uplifting experience.

Due North

2010-03-03T20:13:00.000-08:00

located on the northern coast of the island, singaraja used to be the centre of everything during the golden age of the balinese kingdom. with one damaged leg and a previously horrifying road trip experience, our writer headed up north to find out what’s left of the former capital of bali and check out its vicinity

Faced with another roadblock, the driver decided to swerve his dinky and weary car to the left, into a narrow alley that led to the much more slummy side of the town. I kept looking back to check that the mobs with guns were not tailing us anymore while praying that this would get us across the roadblock. But that hope immediately faded when we stumbled upon yet another roadblock. They had covered every single possible escape route. What was left was to get out of the car and negotiate our way through the blockade, which my travelling partner did exactly.

Fuelled with fear, my eyes were indeed open, but everything was blurry. Soon, I started hearing people shouting. I expected the worst. And with the shouting becoming more and more intense it did look like we were going to end up getting shot or tortured in prison for the rest of our lives. But then I heard a familiar voice saying, “Come on. Get out of the car. We’re walking through the roadblock.”

“What? How many days do you expect us to walk?” I asked.

“Only until after the blockade. There will be cars there.”

I got out of the car, cursing every single staring, angry-looking and sweaty mob member in my head and at the same time thanking my lucky stars that I had just scored travel story gold.

And suddenly, my mind fast-forwarded to the present. I had just been reminiscing about a road trip in Kathmandu. I was in a car again, not moving and parked right next to a cliff in Bedugul. Vertigo immediately hit.

That’s exactly what happens whenever I’m on a road trip - I have too much time to think and the rapid movement of objects through the car windows are somehow hypnotic to me. Images of Nepali communist mobs carrying guns, chasing my car apparently resulted in immediate paranoia and one guaranteed week of nightmares. Add this with being forced to hop on a tiny, eight-seat propeller plane which then flew above the Himalayas with dodgy seatbelts and cotton buds to cover my ears, I had to be immediately taken to an asylum as soon as we landed.
But if the images are green vegetation growing wildly among traditional Balinese houses, adorned with the occasional red, yellow and white from the flowers, the result is a state of almost absolute happiness.

The view of the villages we went through leading up to Bedugul reminded me a lot of the town in Lombok where I grew up. The markets, for instance, looked beautifully raw. The buildings that made up the shops looked old, with plenty of scars. The bricks in the walls were sticking out like damaged bones on deeply severed flesh. Dust was the prominent component, but also optimism. None of the old ladies looked upset or broken. Even the parking man looked cheerful.

The higher we climbed up the mountain, the stronger the feeling of serenity. I think you are left with no option when you’re given the combination of a sleepy town – there was hardly anyone on the street, a big lake that looks very calm, green hills, cloudy sky, and the slightest hint of fog - you can’t help but feel at ease. It was as if the complications of life had not penetrated this part of the mountain yet.

I spotted a trucker talking on his mobile phone on the side of the street and caught myself getting carried away, finding the whole scene odd. But then I remembered that at the same moment, I was receiving football match results from halfway across the planet directly on my phone, in real time.

The former capital of Bali, Singaraja, had its own way of welcoming you. While the town looked pretty and friendly, the sun was less so. The first time I stepped out of the car, the heat was almost unbearable. Not because it was just hot, but because it felt like it had a sting that punctured right through my flesh.

The finer side of town was, like most Indonesian towns, a little outside the centre. I noticed how the streets were much bigger compared to the ones in Denpasar. The government offices also looked better taken care of. The colours of the walls still looked good. And their candi bentar (gates) were bigger too, with more intricate carvings.

A left turn took us to the even posher side of town, where a lot of Dutch-style houses were lined up. Some of them looked really old and had been turned into offices. The others, meanwhile, are still standing tall looking beautiful.

Our first stop in Singaraja was not far from this area. The Buleleng Museum (Jl. Veteran Singaraja) failed to give me any significant information about this coastal town. We indeed came across a lot of old lontar (palm leaf) manuscripts, but there wasn’t much explanation as to how significant they were to the history of Bali.

Apart from feeling excited about being able to buy copies of old books about Bali, I found out that the shadow puppet figures from this part of the island look more gothic compared to their Javanese counterparts. They have a more monstrous look. The Hanoman figure, for example, looks like he has really bad skin and sharp fangs.

The centre of the city – or what I thought was it because it has more shops and looks busier – is located near the old harbour. Right behind this harbour is a line of streets that reminds me of Macau. Ageing two-storey houses that resemble old warehouses decorate the small street in the middle. We came across a mosque and a few Moslem wear shops. This must have been the Moslem area of the city.

Not far away, through the gate to the old harbour, is a Chinese temple.

Because the harbour was dominated by grey, pastel and black, the red paint of the temple makes it stand out. However, the highlight of this abandoned harbour to me was the patina left on the ruins of what used to be the harbour’s warehouses. The walls are scarred, the locks broken and the roofs destroyed. If it weren’t for the heat, I would probably have spent hours staring at those walls, risking being taken away as a nutter by the police, but we had other missions to accomplish.

One of which was to check out a hot spring. The way there, we passed Lovina Beach along a road that presented you with the sea on one side and the mountains on the other.

As soon as we entered Banjar, the vegetation changed. Rows of grapevines replaced paddy fields and the smaller the road, the slimmer and taller the plants became. Bamboos, banana and coconut trees were almost everywhere too.

A hot spring usually means a lot of steps to tackle. And I recently had a motorbike accident, which temporarily lessened the mobility of my left leg. Hesitating to even get out of the car, from a distance, I saw a very old woman in a wheel chair emerging from the direction of the hot spring. She was pushed by another old woman and was in a group of similarly aged people. The thought of seeing their faces haunting – and mocking - me for the rest of my life gave me extra strength to soldier on. I couldn’t care less if I lost my left leg in the process as long as I didn’t embarrass myself in front of them. On top of that, seeing the wheel chair, I knew the steps wouldn’t be too difficult to tackle.

Indeed, without much pain I managed to reach the hot spring. It was not just full of local tourists, there were some foreign looking faces bathing too. Our driver told me that one of the springs is believed to have a healing powers. So he suggested that maybe I could give it a try. The thought sounded good for a moment, but after looking at the colour of the water, I didn’t have the courage for an infection.

Leaving Banjar, the sky slowly became more and more cloudy. Before, our left side view was green and yellow, grown against a blue background. But within minutes, it morphed into green, yellow and brown on a dark purple background before it became black and the rain inevitably poured down on us.

When we reached the even quieter side of North Bali, Pemuteran, the rain had subdued. One wrong left turn brought us to an unknown beach. It was a little scary as the small road went on and on, past a swamp that looked like it had giant crocodiles living there, before it ended on a small and secluded beach. I saw motorbikes parked there but the owners were nowhere to be seen. Realising the lack of lights around and the fact that the sun was almost gone, we decided not to risk getting even more lost and headed directly for the hotel. •

where to stay

Matahari Beach Resort & Spa
Jl. Raya Seririt, Gilimanuk
Pemuteran, Buleleng
North Bali
T: 0362 92 312 / 93 435
www.matahari-beach-resort.com

Located in a very secluded and quiet part of Singaraja, this 32-room, five-star hotel operates with serenity and peace as their priority. The rooms are adorned with intricate Balinese carvings and are also very spacious. The winner of Relais & Chateaux Environment Trophy 2007, this hotel has a beachside restaurant that offers a good fine dining experience.

Emaar Withdraws From US$600 Million Lombok Project

2010-02-25T20:57:00.000-08:00

The Jakarta Globe reports that a massive US$600 Million mega-resort planned for South Lombok is now in jeopardy.

The project of shopping, recreation areas, golf courses and luxurious hotels on a 1,200 hectare site is a "pet project" of Indonesia's Vice President, Jusuf Kalla, who personally invited Dubai's state-owned Emaar Properties to spearhead the investment.

Citing bureaucratic delays and an inability by the government to fulfill its obligations, Emaar announced that thy have closed their Jakarta office and are abandoning it plans for investing in Indonesia. Elly Savitri, a representative of Emaar said. "there have been too many delays on the realization of the project and the company just could not wait any more."

Jakarta Globe coverage suggests that greed on the part of government officials seeking hand-outs may have also played a role in a decision to cancel the project. Meanwhile, others suggest that the worsening global financial crisis may have adversely affected the liquidity of Emaar and diminished their keenness to pursue the Lombok investment.

Lombok is almost certain to be sent reeling by Emaar's decision to quit the project, seen as the catalyst for planned new roads and a new international airport in Lombok. The final project was targeted to host 10,000 luxury villas, eight hotels and two 18-hole golf courses.

Emaar told the press that they have already expended US$4.2 million in consultancy fees in connection with the Lombok project.

Jusuf Kalla's plans to woo Middle Eastern investors appears to be in serious strife. The withdrawal of Emaar from the US$600 million Lombok Project follows the recent pull out of the Saudi Arabian Bin Laden Group from a US$4.3 billion agricultural project planned for Papua.

Vice President Kalla has reportedly convened a special meeting of cabinet ministers in a last ditch effort to salvage the prestigious Lombok project.

Balinese Chef Wins World Class Honors in Chile

2010-02-25T20:54:00.001-08:00

Arriving back in Bali on Tuesday, February 2, 2010, after the long series of flights from Chile, I Wayan Wicaya received an enthusiastic welcome due a returning hero from friends, family and colleagues at Bali Ngurah Rai International Airport. Too precious to be entrusted to his luggage, Wayan was carrying a trophy signifying one of the culinary world's most prestigious honors – winner of the Global Chefs Challenge 2010.
One of the largest individual chefs competitions in the world and sponsored by the World Association of Chefs Societies (WACS), the Global Chefs Challenge saw talented chefs from 88 counties who had won seven continental semi-finalists competing for the top prize in Santiago.

Held once every two years, the final round of competition sees chefs from seven regions prepare a four-course dinner for twelve people. Prepared and presented under the unforgiving gaze of a blue-ribbon panel of Master Chefs, judges rate the meal on culinary, hygiene and preparation standards.

The Final "cook-off" in Chile saw chefs from Indonesia (Bali), Norway, Canada, Portugal, Holland, Dubai and Australia vie for the gold cup.

Before competing in Santiago, I Wayan Wicaya, Executive Sous Chef at the Bulgari Resort Bali had to travel an arduous two-year battery of local, national and regional competitions before earning the right to represent Indonesia and Asia in the world finals. "The road to Chile was paved with hard work, skill, creativity and many smaller hurdles and to win this most prestigious prize is absolutely amazing and a confirmation of how far Indonesia has come in developing our local chefs to international standards," said Darren Lauder of Nusa Dua Beach Hotel who is also Vice-President of Bali Culinary Professionals (BCP).

Chef Andrew Skinner, serving as team coach, and the kitchen brigade at Bulgari, supported Wicaya’s bid.

Obviously, Wayan is delighted with his prize, saying: "Winning the title of Global Chef Asia was one of the highlights of my career. I remembered to stay calm and focused and just did my best. It was an amazing experience and I am very happy for myself and for my colleagues who have supported me and given me the confidence to take on this great challenge."

Joining Wicaya in Chile was the BCP’s first scholarship student, Alex Tanuhardja, who currently works as Commis Chef at Bulgari Resort in Bali, and also serves as the President of the Bali Young Chefs Club.In Santiago each competing chef is allowed an apprentice/assistant to help prepare the four-course meal. Alex has been with the chef throughout the competition, exposed to the highest level of expertise as he competed against Michelin-starred chefs from Europe, America, Australia and Africa.

There was also a wine-pairing competition held in conjunction with the Global Chef Challenge. Wayan, perhaps badly in need of a drink in the face of such stiff competition, was allowed to taste 8 premiere Chilean wines to pair 3 of the wines with his menu. Indonesia also won this award, creating a clean sweep for Wicaya and Indonesia.

"We are all so impressed by this effort and the win is the final confirmation that Indonesia’s chefs are capable of competing against the very best on any culinary stage. Here is the proof," said Andrew Skinner, "A Balinese chef has completely blown away the competition to take this prestigious title. For the Indonesian team just to have made it to the final was a dream, to win is beyond words."

"We went to Santiago with no expectations whatsoever. We were considered the dark horse. But what it shows is on the day (of competition) unbelievable things can happen. However we also believe this was no fluke, because we felt we would be well below the required standard, we rehearsed and practiced like you would not imagine, just to ensure we did not embarrass ourselves on the world stage. And then we won!" continued Skinner.

"We are so proud to have represented, Indonesia, Bali Culinary Professionals and ourselves at this level of competition. To win is just fantastic."

Lampung & Krakatau Volcanic Island

2010-02-25T20:47:00.000-08:00

Ancient Chinese travel chronicles refer to a place in the most southerly part of Sumatra called “Lampung” or “place of southerly winds”. The province is gene-rally flat with the highest mountains of Gunung Pesagi, Tanggamas, Seminiung, Sekincau and Raya all being dormant volcanoes. Bandar Lampung, the Provincial capital, was formerly two separate towns, Tanjungkarang and the port of Teluk Betung, which after the infamous eruption of Krakatau were both completely covered in volcanic ash. In the course of development, however this town have merged together to become one single city.

Tourist Office:
Jl. Ahmad Dahlan No. 79, Gunung Mas,
Bandar Lampung 35211
Phone. (0721) 263401, 361430
Fax. (0721) 266184

Getting there:
Domestic airlines have daily flight from Jakarta. Rajabasa bus terminal is one of the busiest in Sumatra, with a constant flow of departures. The trip from Jakarta takes eight hours which include crossing Sunda strait between Merak in Java and Bakaheuni Lampung by ferry. Three trains a day run from Palembang.

Tourism Events
Krakatau Festival. This annual event is held at the end of August 25-30 2008 the festival commemorate Krakatau’s eruption in the late 19th century. The volcano is located in the Sunda Strait, South of Lampung, in the southern tip of Sumatra.

Places of Interest;

Bandar Lampung has a Museum and a Monument of Krakatau Eruption.

Krakatau Island

Krakatau is an inhabited island and located on the southern part of the Bay of Lampung. Krakatau is reachable in three hours by boat from Canti, a fishing village near Kalianda, South Lampung. Anak Krakatau (Child of Krakatau) is still growing, first emerging from the sea in early 1928, 45 years after the legendary eruption in 1883.

Krakatau Island is currently among three destination in Indonesia that has been qualified in the New 7 Wonders of Nature campaign held by the New 7 Wonders Foundation (two other candidates is Lake Toba and and Komodo National Park). You could support Krakatau Island to become the New 7 Wonders of Nature by voting through the following the URL:

http://www.new7wonders.com/nature/en/liveranking/

Pugung Archaeological

Pugung Archaeological Site in Pugung Raharjo village, 40 kms northeast of Bandar Lampung is a site of megalith and prehistoric relics, as well those of the classical Hindu-Buddhist period.

Merak Belantung Beach

Merak Belantung Beach is 40 km south of Bandar Lampung, on the way to the seaport of Bakauheni, the beach is ideal for swimming and wind surfing. Cottages are available.

Mentawai Island: the Ultimate Diversity of the Hidden Paradise

2010-02-25T20:43:00.000-08:00

Located in the middle of Indian Ocean, 150 km and takes 9 hours trip from Padang, West Sumatra-Mentawai glowing with all the nature spirits and make it an extraordinary escaping spot from a hectic life. Mentawai is the natural habitat for 16 endemic species, and some of them categorized as endangered species e.g. Simakobu monkey (simias concolor-eat leaf as primary food).

The present life of Mentawai people categorized as the legacy from Neolithic era and they have a strong believe in nature spirit, for their life strongly affected by nature. They believe that nature is the center of life. All the genuine attributes make Mentawai a perfect place to gain cultural experiences, here you will notice a very fascinating and indigenous culture, like traditional cloths, art, music and the way of life. The entire culture attributes strongly reflects their respect to nature.

Tattoo is one of the most important symbol for Mentawai people, its reflect maturity, manhood and status. The art of this body painting inherit from their ancestor. The tattoos ink naturally made from leaf.

Among the surfers, Mentawai is the best place to fill their demand for challenges and natures beauty. The beaches offer one of the highest wave in the world, 3 to 4 meters, totally challenge your gut. Once you grounded your self in this hidden Paradise Island, next you will paddle out to the worlds best surf. Dont call your self Surfer if you havent ride Mentawais waves said most of the surfer to expressed their surfing experiences in Mentawai

There are four ultimate diving spot here in Mentawai ,Siberut, Sipora, Pagai Utara (north Pagai) and Pagai Selatan (south Pagai). You can find great waves here year round, but the best waves are during dry season, March to October. Make sure you have the gut to explore all the glassy waves, because the best way to entitled your surfing experiences remarkable is through finding your own.

Getting There

Take flight from Sukarno Hatta air port, Jakarta to Tabing air port, Padang-west Sumatra (flight served every day)
Trip from Teluk Bayur port, Padang to Mentawai island by Ferry

Where to Stay

Lot of visitors said, that the best housing to stay is the local people house. Offer you a distinctive way of living in a unique architecture and experience interacting with local people. Other wise you could stay in a budget hotel in Siberut

Moving Around

To access all the beauties offered, you can use boat owned by local people. You can find the boat a long the beach and the rate depend on your bargaining power

Boost your taste with exotic and fresh sea foods that you can found in the local restaurants run by local people. If you are lucky enough, you can pick and cook your own sea food, but make sure you know the secret recipe/spices from Mentawais people. For those who are not sea food lover, you can find regular meals for your dining.

Souvenir Tips

Local hand made souvenirs like traditional hats, traditional bag and accessories will be genuine souvenirs for your relatives and friends. You can buy it in a souvenirs shop or buy it from local people directly.

Other Things to See or Do

Beach Activities

sight seeing
Diving
Snorkeling

Cultural Activities

Learn how to perform the Traditional dances (war dance and gratitude to nature)
Traditional ceremonies
Mentawai is one of the best place to conduct an Ethnographic study since its one of the oldest tribe in Indonesia

Ecotourism Activities
As the habitat for rare primate, the natural rain forest of Mentawai will be the perfect place for research or other educational purpose. Here, you can conduct research about

Snub-nosed monkey/Simakobu (Simias concolor) monkey family eat leaf as primary food
Joja or Lutung Mentawai (Presbytis potenziani) easily identified for the long tail, white face and black hair head
Bokkoi atau Beruk Mentawai (Macaca pagensis)
Kloss Gibbon/Bilou or Siamang Kerdil (Hylobates klossii) famous for the beautiful voice, different compared to general monkey

Travel Tips

Nature and culture come to be understood and respected
Bring your own surf board with you, because its may hard to find surf board shop in Mentawai
You may arrange your travel using the local travel agent in Indonesia
Great wave can be find year round, but best wave is during dry season March to October
Bring your personal medicine
You may arrange your visit by contact the travel agent and airline services in Indonesia

Indonesian Team Heads off as Asias Representative

2010-02-11T01:02:00.000-08:00

The Indonesian Team has gone through their final stage of preparation and has departed as Asia’s representative for the International Culinary Competition, WACS Global Chefs Challenge Finals at Santiago Chile, 24-28 January 2010.

Bali Culinary Professionals (BCP) held a special gathering at The Laguna Resort and Spa for the team presentation.

This team, consisting of Balinese chef I Wayan Wicaya and apprentice Alexander Tanuhardja, both of Bulgari Resorts Bali, took the honors at the World Association of Chefs Society (WACS) Global Chef Asia competition held in Hong Kong early 2009, defeating long standing champions from Hong Kong and Singapore.

On their journey to Chile, they were accompanied by team leader/trainer Andrew Skinner, executive chef of Bulgari Resorts Bali, vice president of Bali Culinary Professionals (BCP) Darren Lauder, executive chef of Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa, and Dias Raditya Wijaya, a member of Young Chefs as junior delegate.

Since winning the regional competition, the team went through grueling daily trainings for three months, with over 200 hours of practice to polish their culinary expertise.

“Each step bringing us closer to Chile has been a major challenge, in terms of effort, time and financing. Our achievement today would not have been possible without the helping hand of all the BCP Committee, members and partners,” claims Made Putra, president of BCP during the gathering at The Laguna Resort and Spa, “We extend our gratitude to all our loyal sponsors who have supported us morally and financially”.

The WACS Global Chef Challenge competition is held every two years and coinciding with the WACS Congress, this year held in Chile. This competition brings seven finalists selected from the various continental areas (Asia, Pacific Rim, Africa, The Americas and northern, southern, and central Europe) to prepare and present a well-balanced four-course menu.

The winner will be crowned the WACS Global Chef Champion and be rewarded with a trophy and monetary award.

Bali Culinary Professionals is a non-profitable organization that supports chefs in Bali with members comprising of chefs of various levels from hotels and restaurants across the Island of Bali, together with food and beverage managers, owners and suppliers to the hospitality industry.

The goal of the organization is to create, maintain and improve professional standards of chefs, highlighting and encouraging new and needed skills, facilitating new ideas and exposing Balinese food and their craftsmen locally and overseas.

For more information on Bali Culinary Professionals: www.balichefs.com or contact
BCP Secretariat, c.o. Travel Works Communications International
Jl. Kesari 60A, Sanur, Bali
Tel 0361.284095, Fax 0361.270189
E-mail : info@travelworks-bali.com

The Sumba Culture : Facinating, Mysterious

2010-02-11T00:51:00.000-08:00

"The ratu? He's sitting over there, trying to figure out if this will be a nice funeral," says a solemn onlooker.

Lying on the bloodied ground are a dozen disembowelled hens, and like an Etruscan haruspex, the elderly ratu – the great priest – solemnly explains to latecomers: "Yes, the entrails say that the one today will be an excellent funeral."

David Danggalolu and his wife Albertina died within a few days of one another, both from illness. A tragic event, which in small Mgambadeta, at the centre of western Sumba, must be honoured with the necessary pomp (and with the sacrifice of at least fifteen buffaloes).

That's why eighteen-year-old Umbu, wearing jeans and a T-shirt, who two minutes earlier smilingly explained that he loved listening to America R&B, doesn't give a moment's thought to unsheathing his parang and slitting the throat of the first buffalo of the day.

Sumba is one of the 18,000 islands in Indonesia. Twice as large as Balì and 400 kilometres farther east, Sumba was frequented by the Portuguese and then the Dutch, traders of the sandalwood. Sumba's isolation has allowed it to be better preserved: its slow rhythm, life marked by the agricultural cycles, the uncontaminated beaches, the raising of horses and the extraordinary megalithic tombs—it is one of the most fascinating and mysterious cultures in all of Indonesia.

At the tourist office of Waikabubak, a starting point for exploring the western zone, about fifteen people in khaki uniforms seem surprised by the presence of a tourist. A woman, Miss Anisa, came to sit in her office and says, "The best part of the island is the western part, Sumba Barat, more fertile and culturally richer than Sumba Timur, the eastern part."

"Here in Sumba, people still have the warriors' temperament," says André, a Frenchman who for several years has been making water wells in some local villages.

The ikat, Sumba's typical cloth so desired by tourists (its characteristic is the dying of the threads before the weaving), often depicts scenes of combat and warriors on horseback gripping long spears.

At the beginning of the planting season, from mid-February to mid-March, the warriors return to combat. Today, they do it during the Pasola, one of Indonesia's most famous festivals: a simulated battle during which groups of horsemen challenge and hit each other with long spears, the hola, from which the festival takes its name.

Pasola, the horsemen's festival, is also derived from another legend: Thousands of years ago Umbu Dula from Wanukaka left his village to go fishing but never returned. After
a while, his wife Rambu Kaba married another man, Tedo Gai Parana from Kori. Umbu Dula, however, wasn't dead: upon returning suddenly to the village, he burst into a rage, but Rambu Kaba didn't want to abandon her new husband and therefore Tedo Gai Parana had to pay Umbu the wife's price: buffaloes, horses, jewellery, weapons and nyale, the sacred sea-worms. To ensure peace, the people of Kori invited those of Wanukaka to a simulated combat, the Pasola, which, ever since then, has been celebrated every year in February and March, exactly when the sea is filled with nyale, the appearance of which is a good omen for the future harvests.

Every year the government tries to keep the situation under control, but participants are often wounded or even killed on the field of festive battle. This was, in the end, the purpose of many battles in the past: not so much to square away accounts as to let human blood flow in honour of the ancestors, thus guaranteeing a good harvest.

"Do you see that stone slab over there?" says an elderly man during Mgambadeta's funeral.
"It's the tomb of our warrior Rato Dapaduu, who was killed while fighting against the Dutch. And his pistol has been buried along with him."

"Sumba is an island where the tombs are usually in the centre of the village in front of the dwellings to remind the inhabitants that death is the most important event of all," says André.

Funerals last entire weeks and the poor go to many lengths so as to be able to offer a worthy burial for their loved ones, thus keeping the tradition alive. The sacrifice of buffaloes and pigs sanctions the deification of the deceased, and the sacrificed meat is offered to those present in sumptuous feasts.

One of the most beautiful tombs of the island is at Pasunga, about twenty kilometres east of Waikabubak, and it is said that when it was built at the beginning of the last century, 150 buffaloes were killed.

Julius, the 40-year-old head of the village, explains that in 2000, when his father died, 24 animals were killed (more than 15 pigs, 7 horses and an indefinite number of dogs and sheep).

The buffalo horns still ornate the outside walls of his hut. Julius usually gets up at five in the morning and like everybody else goes to work in the rice fields. Today he lives peacefully together with his people, but a long stele on the main road reminds us that, deep down, these people remain warriors at heart.

Twenty years ago there was a conflict with the nearby village of Tamu Au, in which several people died and the head of the enemy chief was buried under that stele.

"We danced for many days, it was a great battle. Since then we haven't had any kind of relations with the people of Tamu Au," Julius says.

The kampung along the southern coast of Kori are among the most fascinating in Sumba. They offer a spectacular view of the nearby beaches frequented by the fishermen, whereas the houses of Paranobaroro and Wainyapu with their straw roofs tower beyond the forest. Raised from the ground, the Sumbanese dwellings have a raised first level with the floor made of bamboo, and a long veranda (the animals live underneath).

Ann McCue, a sixty-something Englishwoman, has lived her entire life divided between Washington and London, but in 2002, when she happened to come to Sumba on vacation and witnessed the Pasola, she fell in love with the island. She returned several times, until a year later she remained definitively.

"I decided to help these people, and I understood that there were two priorities: water and education," she says.

Ann founded "Project Hope – Sumba," which aims to create new wells, schools in the more depressed areas and courses for teachers.

"One out of two children of Sumba abandons school after only three years and is forced to work with his or her parents," Ann explains.

But she also admits that "many of them seriously want to improve. And then, here there's truly a lovely community, social relations, friendship, all of that which cannot be found in England anymore."

Ann thinks for a moment, sips her iced tea and smiles:
"Write down that here in Sumba, in order to improve things, even just a few people can really make a difference".

More on Sumba
Fly to Bali and once there take a ferry. Sumba is one of the islands of Nusa Tenggara that stretches out to the east of Bali. In Sumba, the dry season is approximately from March to October. Waikabubak, the capital of West Sumba, is the ideal starting point for exploring the western part of the island by car or motorcycle.

Places to Stay and to Eat
The Manandang Hotel and the Artha Hotel. In the city, you can eat excellent lotek – rice, vegetables and peanut sauce. In Sangkuring, a warung nasi (rice restaurant) can be found on your right as you leave town heading east along the Bhayangkara.

Mentawai - Eternal Identity and the Forest Primeval

2010-02-11T00:11:00.000-08:00

The remote forest in the depths of Siberut National Park in the Mentawai Islands holds tales of a society that firmly upholds its culture.

We started our journey with a ten-hour crossing of the Mentawai Strait from the fishing port of Bungus (near Teluk Bayur) in a wooden ship crammed with foreign tourists. I felt the ship being pounded by rolling waves, which seemed to be headed for Muara Siberut, considered one of the world’s ten best surfing locations.

It was six in the morning when we landed, yet the dock area was teeming with car and motorcycle services all seeking to take the tourists to Simalepek village, a commercial center with many government offices and also the gateway to Dorogog village and the small islands for surfing.

I then traveled by motorboat another hour and a half to Dorogog, heading toward the home of Pak Koki, or Sikerei (term of address for the head of a household), and began to sense the exotic lifestyle of the people of Mentawai.

From the distance, we could see a number of people waving and shouting “Alai loita, alai loita!”, the Mentawai words for “welcome.” The local people’s joy was evident as the small children escorted me to an uma, or Mentawai house.

Inside the uma, the aroma of tobacco smoke was intense. The interior was decorated with ape and pig skulls, as we see in most uma. I made out the silhouette of an old man sitting with a hand-rolled cigarette dangling from his lips. He smiled and waved to me.

“Alai loita, alai loita,” he said.

This was Sikerei, whom I’d come to meet; he’s nearly 80 years old and is believed to have shamanic powers to mediate between his family members and the spirits of their ancestors.

Pak Koki had a son, who died before he was able to pass on the position of Sikerei to him.

Given this situation, in the end Pak Koki remained his family’s Sikerei. To be a Sikerei, one must follow certain traditional restrictions that seem odd to outsiders, such as a taboo on eating eels. But he has abided by these taboos – proof of his loyalty to the traditional ways and the teachings passed down from the ancestors.

In the evening, Sikerei sang a song in the Mentawai language, accompanied by the nighttime sounds of the forest. There was no electricity; the only light came from a Petromax kerosene lamp given to them by a tourist.

I joined the family gathered in the fading light of the Petromax lamp. Sikerei started to tell about the tattoos that cover the bodies of the Mentawai people. Each stroke in the designs has its own meaning, signaling identity and serving as eternal clothing that they take into the unseen world. The tattooing process is sacred and full of pain. Sikerei told about his own experience when his body was tattooed.

“This many many aww.....blood blood and many, many cry,” he said, trying to explain in English, though it took me some time to make out what he was saying.

Most young Mentawai nowadays no longer want to get their bodies tattooed like Sikerei’s generation did; they cite the extraordinary pain, but the influence of outside modern culture is no doubt also a factor.

In the morning, as the dawn peeked through the branches outside the uma, Sikerei strode toward the forest with a parang in his hand. An hour later, he returned, carrying a section of sago tree nearly the size of his body. Amazing. Though far from young, he still engages in such activities every morning. Meanwhile, his wife was fishing in the river near the house. In Mentawai culture, the task of seeking food from the river, such as fish, shrimp and shellfish, falls to the women, while the men are responsible for hunting and gathering in the forest.

I had been told that there were several waterfalls in the forest; one is Kulukubuk, at Madobag village. The only way to get there is to trek through the forest. The terrain was beyond my expectations: hills, valleys, rivers, thorny underbrush and muddy trails.

The next day, we returned to Dorogog village. Sikerei had prepared something the Mentawai are very proud of: hunting poison, made from various plants and smeared on an arrowhead, then heated over a small flame. Unfortunately, I didn’t get the chance to see it being used; there were no apes or other prey to be hunted, because the right time for hunting is morning. But instead, kind Sikerei taught us how to shoot a bow and arrow. Neither I nor any of my friends were able to do it right. It looks easy, but it requires special expertise, and a great deal of strength when you pull the bowstring.

The evening was full of typical Mentawai exoticism. Sikerei invited some friends over to dance the Turuk, a sacred dance the Mentawai people perform for healing. So sacred is this dance that every dancer must be dressed in a kain (wraparound waistcloth). Accompanied by a simple rhythm, they performed various Turuk movements, symbolizing the movements of birds and of snakes. And then Sikerei took my hand and had me join them in the dance.

After dancing, we gathered again with Sikerei’s entire family and told them about our experience the previous day going to the waterfall. In the midst of our conversation, Sikerei suddenly gave me an unforgettable present: a Mentawai name. He gave me the name Laisan Nun, “the sweet one”. Masura bagata (thank you), I said to myself.

Getting to Mentawai
Garuda Indonesia flies the Jakarta-Padang-Jakarta route 21 times per week.
From Minangkabau international airport, proceed 45 minutes to Bungus harbor to take the ferry.

The Mentawai Islands lie within the province of West Sumatra and consist of 213 islands; the four major islands are Siberut, Sipora, Pagai Utara, and Pagai Selatan. Dorogog village is on Siberut Island.

Show romanization Belly Dance Festival Asia

2010-02-10T23:08:00.000-08:00

This belly dance festival will feature the famous dancers of Asia, including Middle Eastern star, Jillina. They would anesthetize Nusa Dua with sexy belly shake, swing arms, and agility hooves on stage. Not only adult women, this event also opens the opportunity for children to show his talents. bellydancefestivalbali

Muck diving at Gilimanuk

2010-02-03T01:14:00.000-08:00

Gilimanuk Bay, a three and a half hour drive from Denpasar, Bali, was made popular in the early 90s by a Japanese underwater photographer who owned a dive center in Bali. Thanks to his underwater photos, many Japanese divers made the journey to go diving at Gilimanuk Bay, an area which teems with unusual marine life such as snake eels, fingered dragonet, mimic octopus, pegasus, frogfish and many other species. This location became so popular in Japan that a major Japanese television network produced a documentary on the mimic octopus in Gilimanuk Bay.

Most tourists stay in the Pemuteran area, around 30 km east of Gilimanuk. They are attracted by the “muck diving” – a type of diving in which divers have to discover the hidden marine life by probing in submerged trash and mud, sand, and dead coral.

Diving at Gilimanuk Bay is very easy. You can park right in front of the dive site, unload your gear, prepare for your dive and head directly into the shallow water. Conditions in the bay are relatively calm. If there is a current, it’s usually very weak. Dive depths range from one to eight meters. If you go diving between June and October, the water is rather chilly – as low as 23 degrees Celsius. When diving here, it’s recommended to use an underwater compass and have good underwater navigational knowledge. The relatively flat sea bed and vast expanses of sand can lead to disorientation.

Once you are in the water, look out for movements in the sandy seabed, among the trash or near the coral reefs. These small movements may signal the presence of hidden marine life. There are extensive clusters of sea urchins, so watch out for their sharp spikes. Among the sea urchins, you’re likely to see Banggai cardinalfish, which are not actually native to Gilimanuk Bay.

The Banggai cardinalfish is endemic to the waters of the Banggai islands off Sulawesi and is very popular with aquarium enthusiasts. Some of the fish that were caught could not be sold locally to aquarium customers due to their relatively poor quality and these fish were returned to the sea at Gilimanuk Bay, leading to the invasion of Banggai cardinalfish here.
Exploring the sea bed in the bay, you will find many coral reefs, both natural and artificial. As well as the Banggai cardinal, you have the chance to see unusual species including frogfish and ghost pipefish and in the sand you can find snake eels.

Also to be seen here is the “elephant trunk sea snake”. When I dived here in 1999, we saw this sea snake, which at the time was still referred to simply as “unidentified sea snake”. The unusual feature of this sea snake is its nose, which typically has two small bulges of air.

Apart from Gilimanuk Bay, another well-known muck diving location is Puri Jati, a beach at Seririt village, around 10 km west of Lovina.

As at Gilimanuk, diving is done through “beach entry”; you simply walk in from the beach and proceed to the depths, ranging from one meter near shore to up to 30 meters further out. Here too, disorientation is a major concern, as there are so few natural references. One special feature of this site is the many species of flabellum coral, at both shallow and greater depths. These round corals, with a diameter of one to two cm, look like buttons spread out on the sandy seabed.

The area is also home to many species of octopus, especially the mimic octopus. Although the mimic octopus is also found at Gilimanuk Bay, you’ll have a much greater chance of sighting it at Puri Jati. Other unusual octopus species here include the coconut octopus and the blue ring octopus. The coconut octopus favors dwelling in various types of cavities. Don’t be surprised if you encounter an octopus living in a shell. The blue ring octopus is small and quite beautiful. It displays blue rings on its skin when it is under stress which become even more prominent when the octopus feels threatened. Although they are small (around 3–7 cm), these octopuses are among the most venomous creatures in the sea. The venom in their saliva can kill an adult human. So if you see these creatures, approach them slowly and don’t get them too excited, and you’ll be able to witness their amusing behavior. Never try to touch one.

Following the popularity of Gilimanuk Bay on the western end of the island and Puri Jati on the north coast, the latest muck diving location in Bali is at Seraya. Seraya is located at the eastern end of Bali, around 3 km east of Tulamben, one of Bali’s best known diving locations.

What makes this location special is the population of rare and unusual shrimp species. If you’re lucky (and this is likely), you will find various types of shrimp living in symbiosis with crinoids (sea lilies). The shrimp are usually the same color as the crinoid that is their host. You should stop at each crinoid and examine it carefully; be careful with the tentacles, which break off easily and can cause itching. Don’t touch the crinoids directly with your hand; use a small stick and touch it gently.

One species to especially watch for at Seraya is the harlequin shrimp, which eats starfish and often lives in pairs. This species is fairly easy to photograph, even with a simple digital camera.

Family Fun : Waterbom

2010-02-03T00:51:00.001-08:00

Bali's very own waterpark, really does have something for everyone.Set on 3.8 hectares of land; most of which is lush tropical gardens; it is a beautiful location and is perfectly cared for. Waterbom is actually one of Bali's botanical gardens with a wide range of plants – some easy to find, others very rare. Some are planted by their own gardeners, others simply grow from seeds dropped by birds.

The park is a five minute drive to/from the airport & right in the heart of Kuta opposite Bali's bustling shopping mall – The Discovery Mall.Living here with children, I have to admit to being a pretty regular visitor; however when I went recently, I went not only to enjoy, but also to look for things to write about. Result: the place has far more than I ever realised! In the last six months the entrance has moved and grown. It now houses a shop and Soul Asylum a spa offering treatments for children as well as adults; as well as the regular 'way-in' turn style. The security is very good. They have also improved the guest facilities so now there are bigger lockers and changing rooms – pink for girls, blue for boys! There are hot showers, facilities for the disabled and a babychange room. A new PA system keeps you informed of events happening throughout the day.

The main attraction has to be the slides. There is a series of six 'big slides' ranging from the soft and gentle 'Raft River'; great for younger children, to the absolutely terrifying 'Smash Down' for the 'less fearful' - you drop out of the sky and end up with your stomach in your mouth. Some slides require huge tyres to get down, some mats and some just your bare bum! Some you can do with a partner – or even accompanied by three others if you take a double tyre and sit on each others' laps with the aim of going 'really fast'! Some you have to do alone. Whichever, whatever, there are HOURS of fun to be had. And plenty of steps to climb.

The 'kiddie's area' is great fun for the children. It houses three shorter, slower slides along with 'Bombastic' – a wet climbing frame with slides, water guns and a huge bucket which sporadically tips, consequently soaking anyone underneath it. The gardens all around the kiddies area have recently been extended offering loads more space and more sunloungers. Waterbom's newest addition, just recently opened is The Boomerang. Waterbom is the first water park in the Asia Pacific region and only the fourth in the world to have this slide – so quite something!It is a massive half pipe on which two riders shoot down a steep slope creating enough speed to send them up a ten metre ramp at a sixty degree angle and then come down backwards; and very fast! The ride lasts for about fifteen seconds and will leave you breathless! Adrenaline seekers – this is for you.

All Lifeguards in the park are Australian trained, very friendly and speak great English. There always seems to be an abundance of them and all staff in general. Life saving equipment is of international standard and particular attention is paid to the kiddie's area in keeping it non slip, clean and safe. Qualified first aid attendants with eyes in the back of their heads are also around.So what else is there to do? Mandara Spa have a Bale near the large pleasure pool which offers a range of pampers & wonderful aromas – take a babysitter or a husband/wife & hide out there! Half price for KITAS holders. Other activities? The pleasure pool – as you enter - is great for lounging around; it is also the place for the odd game of volley ball and water aerobics take place daily. Close by is a duplicate rock face, for those of us that fancy exerting loads of energy and climbing a sheer rock. If not, try Ping Pong, Football, Badminton, Boules, Pool or just lazing around in the sun! There really is something for everyone here.

Scuba Duba Doo has an outlet inside Waterbom. Introduce your children to scuba diving - lessons are for children from 8-12 years old. Contact Waterbom for more information on the ins and outs.So with all these activities what about food?. The food at Waterbom is fantastic and supplied by M&M Catering. Yet again, there is something for everyone – Pizzas, Asian, Snacks, Salads, Sandwiches; every tastebud is catered for. You can even sit on your sunlounger & have it brought to you if you are feeling really lazy! No extra charge. After lunch there are ample tempting icecream stands around. All this and the prices are very reasonable.

Now what else to entice you? As you leave (or as you arrive depending on how fast you can get by it) is Eurobungy., Lots of children seem to 'need' to do it! Great fun – an upside down Bungy. Before leaving you also need to get past the photo stand. All day long Big Brother has been watching you & you didn't even realise! And there is your grin plastered on the wall – you gotta buy it. I recently went to Eurodisney where they do the same thing, but you have to take out a mortgage to buy the photo – once again prices here are very reasonable.

So, all in all – a great day out, a lot of fun and something for every minute of the day. Children love it, so do the adults. The food is good, so are the souvenirs and the memories. What more can you ask? Enjoy! Entrance fees are reasonable but Waterbom also do regular offers whereby you pay for one day and get the next half price. They also do annual memberships with which you can visit four times a month.

Please call direct for current information on +62-361 755676. The Waterbom shuttle bus serving various hotels is also bookable on this number.

This Month Romance in Paradise

2010-02-03T00:45:00.000-08:00

"Paradise is always where love dwells" Jean-Paul F. Richer

Bali has long been considered the perfect destination to celebrate romance; lazy days on tropical beaches, a candlelit dinner, moonlit walks along palm-fringed shores, proposals culminating in weddings followed by honeymoons. It is for this very reason that many of the rich and famous opt for Bali as their wedding destination. On the following pages, Hello Bali has chosen a few from the cream of the crop to give you a taste of romance – Bali style. Make the most of this Valentine, and surprise your loved one with a dinner, overnight stay, proposal, or second honeymoon. Celebrate life and live it to the full – and keep the love light aglow, especially with a Bali sunset as a stunning backdrop.
By Sarah-Jane Scrase.

Komaneka Resort
Your Piece of Heaven

Nestled between running streams and rice terraces, Ubud is home to the exclusive Komaneka Resort Hotel. Lush tropical vegetation and an abundance of exotic plants, a veritable romantic oasis in the midst of Ubud’s bustling activity and picturesque Monkey Forest Road surround the resort.Imagine your romantic wedding ceremony set amidst Bali’s lush emerald-green rice terraces, azure-blue sky and tropical breeze. What a magical setting for a lifetime of memories! Komaneka welcomes the opportunity to serve and celebrate with you in its most beautiful, secluded and serene place, a romantic sanctuary of art on the Island of the Gods. Exchange your lifetime vows in a blessing ceremony tailored uniquley for you. Choose a Balinese or Western style ceremony for your dream day. Bring lots of love, the ultimate reason to marry, a brand new ring to tie the knot, a borrowed bit of luck from a happily married couple and get something blue for unconditional loyalty and devotion. Monday is for wealth, Tuesday for health and Wednesday is the best day of all. Even if you are married on Friday, Saturday or Sunday, the bright Bali sun that shines will make sure that your lives will be prosperous and fine.Komaneka Spa offers healing and relaxation with high quality natural products. The Spa provides the ultimate indulgence by gracious staff in a beautiful setting. Tranquil sounds of rippling water compliment the soothing aromas of herbs and spices. Komaneka Spa is a haven of serenity and natural splendour for those seeking to replenish body, mind and soul. Spa luxuries include relaxing massages, herbal body scrubs and wraps, and herbal baths in an exotic Indonesian style. Open-air treatment rooms—for couples—offer ample space and privacy, for the perfect romantic experience.Contact Komaneka Resort on T: 61-361- 976090 F: 62-361-977140 - www.komaneka.com

Hotel Tugu Bali
Between Heaven and Earth

Somewhere between heaven and earth, among the petals of red roses and the fragrant bloom of frangipanis, lies Hotel Tugu Bali... a place so surreally exotic, that many have described as only existing in dreams. It is where the sunset portrays the color of passion, where the waves lullaby the lotus flowers through moonlit nights, and where each of the adorning priceless Southeast Asian artwork whisper romantic stories. At Tugu Bali, orchestrate the wedding of your dreams in various stunning settings, whether the ceremony consists of an intimate couple, or as many as 300 people. From marriage papers, consulate documents, luscious wedding cakes, custom-made menus, exotic decorations, entertainment, dance performances, floral services, wedding bouquets, to professional photography and videotaping services, the experienced wedding coordinator will make sure that every step of your destination wedding arrangement is worry-free and flawless, and that all your wishes are thoroughly fulfilled. For more details about your heavenly wedding at Hotel Tugu Bali , or to enquire about the tropical wedding packages, including cocktails and delicacies, sumptuous dinners with menus ranging from Balinese Megibung, Royal Rijsttafel, to East meets West fusion, or to arrange a romantic dinner on the beach, or even a romantic getaway, please contact E: bali@tuguhotels.com T: 62-316-731-701 F: 62-361-731-704

Tirtha Luhur Uluwatu
The VillaTirtha Bali’s Luxury Private Villa for Elite Weddings

In inimitable Tirtha style an incredible creation of luxury accommodation exemplifying indulgence, style, design innovation and sheer opulence has been launched with Tirtha Luhur Uluwatu - The Villa, a spellbinding and architecturally magnificent five star private villa and transposable wedding venue located on the spectacular cliffs of Uluwatu in south-west Bali. Billed as the platinum label of Tirtha properties, Tirtha Luhur Uluwatu – The Villa will be ready to receive the elite from this month onwards.Located just 50 meters across from her magnificent sister property Tirtha Uluwatu, Tirtha Luhur Uluwatu – The Villa offers three separate luxury bedroom chambers each with their own bathroom, a superbly appointed guest lounge room, two tiered 20 meter infinity edged swimming pools, an outdoor gazebo pavilion and the first transposable purpose built air-conditioned wedding pavilion within a luxury villa.A private chef, sommelier, vintage cellar, full butler services, footmen and chamber maids are on hand to deliver infinite services from custom designed menus, hand drawn Champagne to Café Latte Chocolate Baths. Immaculately presented with flawless attention to detail & signature Tirtha style this exquisite property has already been booked by celebrity and society sets from around the globe.

More information on: T: 62-361-772255 F: 62-361-777252
E: yuka@tirtha.com - W: www.tirtha.com

The Viceroy Bali
Timeless Romance

In the cultural heartland of Bali, a sanctuary of privacy and security is the elegance and refined luxury of The Viceroy Bali. Beautifully appointed private villas with individual swimming pools nestled in the serenity of the Lembah Valley, yet just minutes from the excitement of Bali’s world famous artist community. Ubud. This is the perfect choice for a ‘secret’ romantic getaway, or, a first, second or third honeymoon.With their fine health spa, the Lembah, and a breathtaking gourmet restaurant, Cascades, The Viceroy Bali offers all the services of an elite hotel, yet the discretion and privacy of a secluded retreat..The Viceroy Bali is located just five minutes leisurely drive from Ubud. Situated on the slopes of the Petanu valley near the village of Nagi, the hotel and villas enjoy unparalleled views of the dramatic river gorge, and the forested slopes and terraced paddy fields beyond.The Viceroy Bali’s CasCades restaurant has already firmly established itself to be a popular choice for those living around Bali, although for those staying in-house – intimate room service is a must. The Lembah Spa has been created by some of Switzerland’s most prominent spa specialists to ensure a truly holistic spa experience, concentrating on whole body wellness by placing as much emphasis on health and meditation, as it does on relaxation and beauty.Get into the true romantic spirit of Ubud by making The Viceroy Bali the choice for your dining, spa or getaway ‘tête-à-tête’.

The Viceroy Bali, T: 62-361-971-777 F: 62-361-970-777 www.theviceroybali.com

The Oberoi Bali
Romance Redefined

This beachside haven offers a complete Balinese experience, filled with serenity, hospitality and tropical beauty. Discover all that is serene and mystical about Bali at The Oberoi; a wonderfully secluded cluster of luxury villas and lanais set in 15 acres of tropical gardens on Seminyak Beach. Built in traditional Balinese style, you can relax and get into the mood of love in truly fabulous settings that celebrate your privacy with charming thatched roof villas, private pools, unique garden bathrooms, and exquisite interiors featuring Balinese art. Enjoy heavenly views from the swimming pool that looks out at the Indian Ocean. Oberoi Spas by Banyan Tree provide a serene and truly unforgettable experience of pure pampering and relaxation in exquisitely beautiful surroundings, using holistic therapies and massages that combine the very best of Eastern and Western practices. Expert in the use of Ayurvedic, Aromatherapy and traditional Western techniques, teams of highly skilled and trained therapists are handpicked for the resort from the Banyan Tree Spa Academy, Phuket. Oberoi Spa recipes feature only the finest natural ingredients, often local to the resort. The Oberoi Bali is committed in remaining true to the Asian tradition of respect for the environment. Try the packages for couples and pamper yourself this February. This is one of Bali’s original leading resorts, and is made for love, romance and all that the Bali sunsets and twinkling stars evoke…. tropical delights.

Contact The Oberoi Bali on T: 62-361-736361 W: www.oberoibali.com

Pura Santrian
An Intimate Alternative on Sanur Beach

This gorgeous resort sits on the gentle coastline of Sanur, famed for its breathtaking sunrises, and offers a reposed alternative to the hustle and bustle of Kuta and Seminyak. This is Bali at its hospitable best, with renovated facilities that exceed any expectations of a tropical hideaway on a stunningly beautiful island. This is a family owned and operated resort, which reflects the renowned Balinese hospitality and warmth of spirit that often seems forgotten in so many of the modern properties of a flourishing Bali. It is here that each guest will find a secure and attentive sojourn amongst frangipanis, flowing waters and ponds, as well as cool wood and stone structures against a stunning Indian Ocean backdrop. Who could ask for more?

A Thai Valentine
Well, a hungry gourmand might. In that case, one of the two restaurants will be sure to appease any esurient appetite. The Mezzanine was recently relaunched under the skilled Thai hands of Chef Supachai Lamtaisong to great acclaim. Chef Supachai can now boast the only authentic Thai restaurant in Sanur, much to everyone’s delight. Having travelled the world to appease the growing demand in Thai cuisine, Chef Supachai now finds himself enchanting the local, expatriate and international diner through many of his exquisite dishes. Choose from Yam Woon Sen Salad (prawns and mixed chicken flavoured hot and sour) or Gai Hor Bai Tuey (marinated deep fried chicken breast wrapped in pandanus leaves). As a main, warm things up a little with a colourful Thai curry, such as Gaeng Kiew Wan Neua Rue Gai (green curry w/beef or chicken mixed w/basil leaves & eggplant), or indulge in the Hoi Malaeng Phu Ob Mor Din-Ruam mit Talay Yang (mussels seasoned w/kaffir lime leaves, galanga, lemon grass & coriander baked in a clay pot with assorted vegetables in an oyster sauce). All of the aforementioned are complimented by one of the many wines from a very well stocked in-house cellar.

Perfect for a spicy valentine dinner, to warm things up a little! The Mezanine opens daily from 7pm.

Cocktails & Massages
During the day, dine beneath a canopy of cooling wood and Palimanen stone- pillars poolside at the Beach Club Restaurant as a fresh ocean breeze caresses the scenery, and whets the appetite. The menu is wholesome, varied and will satisfy all tastes. Over at the pool, order a lazy cocktail at the sunken bar and get into the holiday swing of pure indulgence as the Bali sun kisses your shoulders. Then, why not finish the perfect day at the impressive spa, and indulge yourself from an array of treatments such as; a Balinese Massage, an Aromatherapy Massage, Foot Reflexology or the sublime Healing Massage, all reasonably priced and lasting an hour each. There are also spa packages that last from a couple of hours to five hours for a couple to while away the afternoon in sheer unadulterated, romantic bliss.

Weddings
The Puri Santrian also offers wedding organisation, and can rouse the imagination of each wedding party by an out to sea ceremony from one of its moored pontoons. During the day, these very pontoons are the epitome of laziness with a couple of sun-loungers and guests lolling waterside.The Puri Santrain in truly a gem of a surprise in gentle Sanur, and has definitely earned its right to be ‘the intimate alternative’.
T: 62-361-288009 F: 62-361-287101

What Lies Beneath

2010-02-03T00:34:00.001-08:00

breathing underwater isn’t as easy as it looks. however, while there are indeed a lot of things to master before you are allowed to dive in open waters, the view of what lies beneath is worth all of the hard work

Just call me Bea,” said Beate Goldschmidt, the Bali-based dive instructor from Habitat H20. My initial training, on a one-to-one basis with Bea, took place at a quiet swimming pool in Seminyak. My mood was strangely alternating between anxiety, eagerness and jittery excitement, but I was heartened by Bea’s enthusiasm and professional reassuring manner. We began on terra firma with an orientation session, in which I was familiarised with the hand signals and taught basics such as how to equalise my ears, clear my mask of water and recover a lost regulator – the thing that divers breathe through.

I have been snorkelling most of my adult life, but I have only just become a scuba diver. You would have thought that my enjoyment of donning fins, mask and snorkel, and skimming the surface like a UFO pilot looking down on another planet would have enticed me to venture further.

Living in Indonesia and not learning to dive is the equivalent of being given a beautifully packaged birthday present but never breaking through the wrapper to uncover the magic beneath the surface.

The 3.1 million square kilometres of Indonesia’s territorial waters are home to an estimated 10-15 percent of the world’s coral reefs and the greatest marine biodiversity on the globe. This magnificent ecosystem flourishes with more than 6000 species of life. I was guilty of dispassion; I had lived in Indonesia for 11 years and merely dipped my toe into this underwater paradise.

It was time to do something positive, so I enrolled for the Open Water Diver course. And I trusted my survival training with Bea. Hailing from the Black Forest in Germany, Bea started her diving practice 17 years ago in the cool lakes of her homeland. Her passion brought her to Bali in 2000, and it wasn’t long before she had set up her own mobile dive business, known as Habitat H20, in which she takes clients all over the island with full use of the facilities at the many dive centres around the coast. She explained, “This includes use of the compressors to fill the tanks, and going out with the charter dive boats or the local fishermen. I also arrange rental of dive gear if required, as well as accommodation for my guests when I take them on overnight stops or dive safaris.”

As a diver and dive instructor, Bea always emphasises the vital importance of respecting and protecting the coral reefs. After all, the whole point of going deep underwater is to enjoy these beauties, not to destroy them.

After learning the basic theory, it was time to gear up into a wet suit with a tank on my back and practice my new skills − which included mastering neutral buoyancy along with the mystifying phenomenon of breathing underwater – in the pool, thereby ensuring that all of my initial mistakes would be made in safe surroundings.

I had been a bit scared that I might forget to breathe but with the technique effortlessly accomplished, together with various safety exercises and emergency procedures, I was ready to hit the open water. For this, Bea’s driver took us to Padang Bai, and the 90-minute journey gave us the opportunity to work on some of the theory in preparation for the multiple choice exam, which I would later have to sit in order to qualify for my licence. Arriving at the dive centre, we donned our gear, boarded a traditional jukung fishing boat and headed out to the beautiful Blue Lagoon. I felt a bit daunted at the prospect of rolling backwards off the edge of the boat, James Bond style, with a tank on my back, but I just went for it and was surprised – once more – at how easy it was. Despite the weights around my waist, my inflated vest kept me buoyant in the water and I was barely aware of the tank.

At first I could barely take in the scene. I was thinking too much about the strange Darth Vader-like sound emanating from the mouthpiece. It was only me! When I looked around, I felt just like the alien UFO pilot who has finally donned breathing apparatus and penetrated the barriers into a new world. I was no longer watching the movie; I had now swum into the set. The reef was teeming with psychedelic underwater creatures and extraordinary coral. With Bea constantly at my side continually checking that all was well, I swam through clouds of ultraviolet fish daubed with splashes of luminous orange. I saw a blue spotted stingray, an octopus, and a huge puffer fish skulking in the shadows. I gawped at markings reminiscent of wallpaper, soda bubbles, printed fabrics and traditional batik. I even saw a fish in a leopard-print coat and soon I began to spot the cleverly camouflaged creatures hiding in the reef crevices.

The coral was like an exotic vegetable garden boasting white-stemmed asparagus, juicy Chinese mushrooms, purple-sprouting broccoli, succulent lady’s fingers and the finest globe artichokes. Awestruck by the abundance of brilliance and life, I mused on how the denizens of the reef could be so vivid in their imagery. It was like looking through a kaleidoscope of incessantly changing patterns and colours; as if God had taken a paint brush, dipped it in a rainbow and splattered every creature. It was a reminder of the beauty and splendour of creation and I suddenly felt very humble. I was hooked!

Three more dives followed over the next couple of days, together with “classroom” instruction from Bea on the all-important theory, which led to me passing my test and achieving the internationally-recognised Open Water Diver certification. Clearly, the underwater world is now my oyster!

Beate Goldschmidt, PT. habitat-h2o Diving, T: 0812 363 8529,
www.dive-bali.de

Outer Spice at Raja's

2010-02-03T00:30:00.000-08:00

authentic balinese cuisine served in a fine dining setting is a rarity on the island; even rarer is one run by an australian chef and serving exclusively halal dishes. no, we’re not kidding you. this is raja’s

I was still teary-eyed from the freshly prepared sambel embe – handmade in front of me on an elegant Jenggala-made rectangular mortar – I had greedily consumed just moments before when the food tray came. “Here comes the duck,” I thought. To be honest, I wasn’t excited in the beginning. Despite being a duck fan, I had never had a mesmerising bebek betutu. The ones I had had before never really wowed me. However, I knew this one was going to be very different as soon as the wrapper was opened. The steam came out dancing cheekily as if knowing the aroma that it had just released was going to hit a homerun.

After staring at the multiple-spice-covered duck for about an eternity, the reflection from the knife and fork effortlessly cutting into the meat woke me up. Before I knew it, I was served a big chunk of the meat. Dining with the person who runs the restaurant, Darren Lauder, I thought of warning him by saying, “I’m sorry, please don’t think I’m crazy, but I’m about to eat a whole duck in front of you.”

Thankfully, I had second thoughts: Maybe I shouldn’t say something like that. Nobody takes a whole-duck-eater seriously. So instead, I said, “Enjoy your duck,” while at the same time making sure I had the bigger share of the portion.

In a nutshell, the duck was nothing like others I had had before. It was tender, tasty and addictive. I could go on and on about the duck, but the truth is that the whole dining experience at Raja’s was just as top notch.

The sambel embe burnt the right spots in my mouth I had to ask for a second portion. The soup tasted as delicious and clear as water after a whole night of drinking. And the small platters of traditional Balinese appetisers (rayunan pengawit Bali sane kasub) brought back memories from my childhood in Lombok.

“Yes, there are similarities between Balinese cuisine and that of Lombok, but not with other Indonesian cuisines such as Javanese which tends to be more sweet,” explained Darren, who is the executive chef of Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa where the restaurant is located.

He went on, “Balinese cuisine doesn’t use as much sugar and coconut. They are not prominent in their cooking process. Instead, Balinese cuisine uses a lot of freshly ground spices and herbs. They use the pestle and mortar to extract the oil, not the juices, from them and use the oil to marinate the meat and then cook them together. So it’s in reverse from the Indian cooking method where the spices are roasted first before the grinding and marinating process.”

A native of Australia, Darren received his formal kitchen training in his home country. Despite having done stints in kitchens in far flung corners of the world like the Middle East, Nagoya, Japan, and Santiago de Chile, the affable chef wasn’t always this knowledgeable about the gastronomy of our beloved island.

“Before I came to Bali, I thought the food here would be more like that of Thailand with a lot of curry, lemongrass, spices and ginger,” he admitted. Then as soon as he landed two and a half years ago, he was immediately given the task to transform what was originally a seafood eatery into a fine dining restaurant serving authentic Balinese cuisine.

“Was it as scary as when you were about to jump off a plane for the first time?” I asked. The Sagittarian daredevil laughed and recalled, “It was definitely challenging. It was a big learning curve for me.”

The first piece of the Raja’s puzzle was getting the recipes. “I invited my staff to bring recipes from their homes, the favourite traditional recipes of their families, and cook them how they’re supposed to be cooked. Not a la carte them or change anything,” he explained. “This was for me to learn the concept of Balinese cooking.

I didn’t go showing them how to cook it because it’s their own home cooking. So on my part, it was about having a lot of faith in my staff to teach me first how things were done, so I could learn how each dish was supposed to taste, and then after that, we took the items apart and I taught my staff how to present these dishes in a modern, fine dining, a la carte-style.”

The whole process took some eight months of hard work, which included intensive research through going around the island tasting foods from the small warungs at the side of the streets of the smallest villages in search of even more rare authentic recipes.

“A lot of the traditional things we are doing in our kitchen are now lost. One example is our timbungan (referred to as timbungan be kambing on the menu, it is spiced minced lamb, baked in bamboo shelves and carved on the table) which isn’t practiced anymore,” he pointed out.

Later, I found out that my duck, too, came to fruition from long hours of kitchen work. “The duck is imported from Australia. This is because the meat is more tender and tastier than the local ducks. Then it was marinated for six hours in 16 different spices before being slowly baked in a low-heat oven for at least six hours,” explained Darren.

“Impressive,” I thought feeling slightly less guilty about having just eaten one whole duck. “But why don’t you have babi guling on your menu?” I asked.

“Because we’re a 100-percent-halal restaurant” was his answer.

My surprised expression must’ve been apparent to him as he immediately added: “It was another challenge because pork is a big part of Balinese cuisine and when we opened the restaurant it was difficult to source halal produce in Bali. But Raja’s kitchen is independent from the other kitchens in the hotel. Everything goes straight to Raja’s kitchen and all the meats and vegetables are processed there.”
The 60-seat restaurant’s kitchen is manned by six staff, two of which are female, and all work in harmony with the waiting staff that embody the elegance of the restaurant. They know their products very well. Ask any of them about any dish on the menu and they’ll happily take you through it. I couldn’t help but observe how Darren watchfully yet subtly oversaw everything that was going on that evening. He knew every single garnish that was supposed to be served with each dish, and where and how they were supposed to be served. Therefore, it came as no surprise to me that Darren and his team won The Best Service Award in the recent Tri Hirta Karana Awards 2009, which also saw Darren – who also holds the position as vice president of Bali Culinary Professionals – being given a gold medal.

As it got darker, the atmosphere at the restaurant became more chic. The contrast illuminated the many intricate carvings that adorned Raja’s outside dining area. The one inside is perhaps brighter but no less of a treat for the eyes. It’s graceful but comfortable. Gorging on my cendol manis (rice dumplings with coconut milk and palm sugar) I shamelessly asked Darren one last question,
“How many ducks do you prepare each day?”

“Three or four only. That’s why we recommend our guests order beforehand.”
And there went my dream of having two ducks in one evening.

Raja’s, Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa, Nusa Dua,
Lot North 4, T: 0361 771 210, www.nusaduahotel.com;
only open for dinner, closed on Tuesdays

East Javenture

2010-02-03T00:18:00.000-08:00

when you have the dawning realisation that bali has become too claustrophobic and you are in urgent need of a little trip, east java has a few precious geological gems

The first step to an awesome Java adventure is getting to Java in the first place. Thankfully, this just might actually be the easiest leg of a modest journey.

The beginning of our trip is marked by an early morning arrival at the central bus station known as Terminal Ubung. A little windowed booth in the middle of the station is staffed by uniformed employees who can direct passengers to one of the many buses loitering in the station. If that’s too difficult, there are plenty of men hustling the bus station ready to direct you to a bus in order to graft a little commission from a bus driver.

The bus route to Gilimanuk takes a breezy three and a half hours along a road that hugs most of Bali’s South-West coast. Before you know it, you’re at the Gilimanuk bus station, which is conveniently next door to the ferry port. A short walk, a mere Rp. 33,000, and a ten-minute wait later you’re on a vessel that creeps over treacherous currents of the Bali Strait to your next waypoint, Banyuwangi.

Despite Banyuwangi’s rich history as the last Hindu kingdom in Java and a territory of Bali, there’s really not much to gawk at. The roads are lined with concrete mosques and other residential and industrial structures, with intermittent scatterings of agriculture. Evidence of the large Hindu community that inhabits this city is scarce. The best thing to do is check in at a hotel and knock back some cold bottles of Bintang at a pool in preparation for the first big item on the East Java itinerary: Ijen.

The Ijen volcano complex is made up of a group of stratovolcanoes within a large caldera. The high plain contains 17 individual peaks consisting of active and extinct volcanoes. The largest of these is Mount Merapi, which, confusingly enough, shares the same name as two other volcanoes in Indonesia. But the real jewel of this plethora of geological activity is the Ijen crater itself. Within the wall of this vast crater lays the world’s largest highly acidic lake that stretches an entire kilometre from bank to bank.

The actual trek to the crater lake starts at about 3am when you jump into a hired car. The drive itself is about an hour and a half long (over some road that can easily be described as off-road) and takes you to the base of the volcano. From there it’s a moderately easy two-hour trek along a wide beaten path to the rim of the crater.

Once atop the rim, all exhaustion from the hike is delayed by a brilliant display of an epically giant bowl filled with liquid jade surrounded by rocky mountains.

Breathtaking views and geological wonders aside, Ijen also offers an industrial curiosity only seen where labour and life is relatively cheap. Men act as human mules to haul up to 100-kilogram loads of sulphur up to the rim from the bottom of the crater then several kilometres down. The miners use a stick of bamboo with two baskets attached which leaves a permanent groove of bone and muscle on their backs. They work in plumes of noxious sulphur without any respiratory protection and consequently have eyes red with irritation.

Once descended into the crater, everything is barren rock and life ceases to exist in such a hostile environment. Walking down into the crater takes care and patience – the path is steep and a moment of carelessness can easily lead to a fatal fall. If it weren’t for the respirator I packed, I most likely would have had to retreat from the sulphuric plumes of gas that turn away most hikers.

At the bottom, pipes spew both smoke and molten sulphur as if they were directly plugged into a fiery hell churning below your feet.

After an epic mountain adventure, it’s sometimes best to detach yourself by seeking completely different geography. I did this by eating at the beach in Blimbingsari where a collection of little warungs serve fresh grilled fish much like they do in Jimbaran.

With my protein level replenished thanks to some tasty fish, it was time to rehabilitate a worn out body by pre-emptively drinking more beer in the hotel pool as a precursor to a train ride to Malang early next morning.

As the crack of dawn descends upon me, morning prayers from nearby mosques welcome the morning silence. The single class train from Banyuwangi to Malang (and everywhere in between) leaves the station at 5:30am. Tickets are cheaper than dirt and the empty train looks like it’s going to be a comfortable journey with an entire booth to myself.

After about four stops, I couldn’t be more wrong. The train quickly swells with people and I’m instantly crammed in like a poor little sardine – for eight hours.
Vendors stroll up and down the train, trying to sell you everything from tofu to newspapers to lighters. Smokers fill the passenger cars with pungent streams of kretek smoke, and only small windows open to bring much anticipated fresh air at the whim of wind gusts. It soon becomes apparent that the best way to cope in that train is to hang out the constantly open doors with the cool breeze flowing as Javanese landscape whizzes by.

As the Malang station approaches, a Herculean feeling of relief flows through my entire body. Finally off that train, I hop on a becak (bicycle rickshaw) to a hotel to wash off my train-marinated body. The rickshaw struggles along and I instantly fear for the cardiac health of my very senior becak driver.

Malang is a collection of typical Indonesian cityscape, military installations, and Dutch colonial-era buildings. The cool temperature makes it instantly obvious why the Dutch flocked to Malang and their contributions can be seen everywhere. Colonial lampposts, bridges, and homes give the city a very distinct flavour. All places of interest can be toured on becak, which gives an almost austere feeling of modern colonialism.

Mount Bromo is a short two and a half hour drive by car from Malang. It is but one of the 21 peaks of Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park. The Tengger caldera itself is a remnant of a giant volcano where five younger volcanoes have sprouted up in a sea of sand. South of the Tengger complex lies mount Semeru, the tallest mountain in Java and in a state of near-constant eruption.

Mount Pananjakan is usually the first place to go when visiting the park. The touristy vantage point is easily accessible by car and only requires a mere ten-minute walk before you are able to overlook the entire Tengger Volcano Complex.
After Pananjakan, it’s a short drive to the sand sea (laut pasir) located within a cliff-enclosed bowl. The sand sea is flat and desolate: other then sparse grassy patches and the occasional shrub, it is completely featureless. It is essentially a black sand desert in the middle of jungle.

As the vehicle begins to approach the temple, which sits next to the entrance to Bromo, a gathering of cars appears in the distance. Suddenly you find yourself surrounded by a small swarm of horsemen eager to show off their skills. Upon arriving at the car park, the horse guides approach you and offer rides on their horses to the base of the concrete staircase that leads to the peak. You pass a large Hindu temple and plenty of horses on the way and it almost seems surreal, as if you’re passing by some alien temple on the moon with a bunch of colourful cowboys riding around you.

The cement stairway that leads to the top of the volcano rim looks misleadingly easy; but it is 250 steps of strenuous stairs that torture the thighs. At the peak, drink sellers are ready to quench your thirst amidst clouds of sulphur radiating from a large breach at the centre of the crater. Up there, you’re at the mercy of the wind, and when it’s being disagreeable, expect to experience the acrid taste of sulphur burning down your olfactory organs.

When the wind finally relents and blows in your favour, Bromo treats you to massive views of the surrounding caldera edge and the young peaks of juvenile volcanoes.

The view is surreal, as if you’re looking at a postcard. It’s both breathtaking and overwhelmingly condescending, which is not necessarily a bad thing in this case.
When you’ve taken in all the epic scenery possible for the average human being, Surabaya is a civilised three-hour drive away. Being the second largest city in Indonesia, Surabaya is a vast urban sprawl that serves as an important port and commercial centre. The city also has multiple daily flights back to Bali, so I end my little journey where I started.

what to bring

Good hiking shoes with decent tread
Warm jacket and clothes
Respirator with gas cartridges for acid gases (available at Ace Hardware)

where to stay

Mirah Hotel
Jl Yos Sudarso, no. 28 Tanjung, Klatak, Banyuwangi
T: 0333 420 600
E: info@mirrahhotel.com
Hotel Helios
Jl. Pattimura, no. 37, Malang
T: 0341 362741

Pullquote:
“Within the wall of this vast crater lays the world’s largest highly acidic lake that stretches an entire kilometre from bank to bank.”-

Touched by Love

2010-02-03T00:07:00.000-08:00

love is a verb. love heals. and who deserves more love than ourselves? and well, our loved ones. como shambhala estate and tea tree spa let you love yourself and others not only from the outside, but also from within

como shambhala estate

the look
Designed by Cheong Yew Kuan, the estate is a vast wellness compound swathed in all of nature’s elements. Located on hilly and grassy terrain, surrounded by the holy Ayung River, the energy of the property really resonates the moment you step foot on the grounds of the estate.

The spa is aptly named Ojas, a Sanskrit word meaning “essence of life”, alias a life-giving force. Sunken in a valley-esque location on the estate, the descending steps leading to the spa are straddled by two infinity pools.

A huge circular fountain centrepiece greets you as soon as you make your way down. Water (in all its sensory qualities) plays a major role at this place;
it is, after all, the most healing element Mother Nature has to offer.
the touch

COMO Shambhala promotes a holistic approach to wellbeing, meaning that you don’t come in for “merely” a spa treatment, but a complete systematic therapy programme, modified according to every individual’s needs. I came in for a relaxation programme, which started out with a morning dip in the estate’s Vitality Pool guided by a trained aqua-therapist. This pool is equipped with water-jets that have been constructed to provide exacting treatments, which means it is also beneficial for pain and fatigue relief, including jet lag and hangovers (yes, there IS a cure!).

A 90-minute signature massage (and inevitable ten-minute power nap) followed after the hour-long aqua therapy. The massage therapist, Chandra, used the power of her fingers, knuckles, wrists, elbows and forearms; quite a fulfilling touch for a massage. Also, it was a full-body approach, meaning everything from my scalp to my pinkie-toe was pampered, coddled and kneaded.

The touch was that akin to an iron, and as if my body were rumpled sheets that needed sprucing up from all the wrinkles, muscle wrinkles, that is.

the ingredients
As my treatment was one meant for relaxation, COMO Shambhala used ylang-ylang essential oils to smoothen out my knots.

the exceptional
COMO Shambhala Estate is the epitome of the term self-improvement. It’s the place to truly fall in love all over again with oneself, not only through pampered indulgence, but also through a proactive self-enhancement approach. For example, COMO Shambhala has a psychiatrist, nutritionist, Ayurvedic doctor and trained yogis and pilates coaches on duty, available on-call according to your treatment programme.

COMO Shambhala Estate,
PO Box 54, Ubud, T: 0361 978 888,
cse.comoshambhala.bz

tea tree spa

the look
Nestled in a quiet corner of the Kuta shoreline, Tea Tree Spa is home to a sprawl of cosy floating pavilions, all facing the ocean and interconnected by wooden bridges set among a beautiful garden, each housing a treatment room.

The couple’s treatment room contained two massage beds and a lofty bathtub, filled with red swirls of floating hibiscus flowers. There is an outdoor wooden patio facing the beach where cushy lounge sofas are arranged for the preparatory foot scrub and relaxation session prior to the four-course couples treatment.

the touch
Starting off with a de-stressing foot scrub on the outdoor patio, the therapists were very warm people and the aura was truly that of a romantic couples retreat. This foot-friendly interlude gave time for him and I to talk and connect in a relaxed environment.

A full body scrub followed inside the treatment room, where soothing background music filled the space and aromatic candles intensified the aura of ardour.

After the body scrub, we were granted a private session of quality time alone in the room, where a warm flower bath was prepared, complete with massage oils. The therapists told us to call them back in the room when we were ready for the next treatment, which was a full body massage.

Aside from the intimate connection inevitably felt by him and I, this part of the treatment is objectively the perfect ending to an intimate journey.

The bodyworkers were very thorough with tending to each tension-prone area of the body, focusing on the upper back, shoulder blades, lower back, shins and feet.
Their method of caress was somewhat shiatsu-like, with the therapist climbing up on the beds and using their standing force to further deliver a firmer – yet still gentle – massage.

the ingredients
I chose the rose milk body scrub, meant to tone, smooth and give the body a fragrant allure, and peppermint and lemongrass massage oil, meant to relax and balance the mind and body, whereas my partner chose the ground coffee body scrub, beneficial for getting rid of dead skin cells and cleansing that extra bit of grime from the body.

the exceptional
Known for its economical alternative for holiday accommodation, this Holiday Inn Resort is no different, and the Tea Tree Spa is definitely good value for your money. The location of the Spa and warm service of the staff are worth mentioning. Their selection of body scrubs is also remarkable, so you can customise and mix and match products according to the specific needs of your mind and body.

Tea Tree Spa Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali, Jl. Wana Segara, no. 33, Tuban, T: 0361 755 577

Bend it Like Benz

2010-02-03T00:06:00.000-08:00

ceo of kemana.com, christopher benz, is a hardcore multi-tasker. he dives, he makes films, he plays the guitar, he graphic designs, he plays sports, he helps handicapped children and he brings extraordinary success to online businesses

Waiting for the man behind online store kemana.com – Indonesia’s version of Amazon.com – to come out and greet me, I sit and flip through the website’s press release for the third time, not wanting to sound like an airhead during the Q&A. When I learned that I was assigned to interview a Christopher Benz, 32-year-old online entrepreneur nominated as America’s most promising social entrepreneur by BusinessWeek [American version] in 2009, I was expecting a younger version of Bill Gates. I prepared myself for the interview by digesting as many techy jargons as I could wrap my tiny brain around. Little did I know…

All of a sudden, Christopher Benz walks in, hand held out for me to shake, a boyish twinkle and a warm smile radiating from under his glasses, which I find out later are not his favourite thing to wear for photos. Unfortunately.

Before I can say anything more, he leads me to the front door and mutters, “Let’s go and do this at the café up front, I definitely need an excuse to get out of here.”
Well, alrighty. I’m definitely not dealing with Bill Gates here. And rightly so, as it turns out Benz holds an Organisational Communications major with a minor in Film Studies. He was even nominated for Best Short Film at the Asian Underwater Film Festival in Singapore for an underwater documentary he created-nothing Silicon Valley about that. But it is Silicon Valley that greatly influences the young entrepreneur, having taken part in an MBA programme called The Global Social Benefit Incubator at Santa Clara University’s Centre for Science, Technology and Society – the heart of Silicon Valley itself. This programme assists entrepreneurs in developing business plans that enable their organisations to reach increasing numbers of beneficiaries. Plainly speaking, because of his socially oriented business, Benz was chosen to participate in this highly reputable programme.

Social entrepreneur? Filmmaker turned online store guy? Okay let’s rewind a little.
Nine years ago, Benz moved to Bali after a bout of globetrotting. He did so because he instantly fell in love with the island (not a surprise, I can relate with that). Born in Manhattan and having grown up in London, Benz refers to his mother as his biggest source of inspiration.

“She’s a very socially conscious creature. She shaped the way I look at things,” he explains. “I was lucky to have been brought up in a family that’s, well, we were well off. Very well off. Liam Gallagher is my neighbour in London. But this upbringing – and that trip around the world – were exactly what made me realise that I had to do something that wasn’t only profitable, but also beneficial to other people. Knowing about other people’s way of viewing things really opened my eyes. It was the richest experience ever. I had to give back.”

Thus, Benz then founded his first online business in Bali, called craftnetwork.com, connecting artisan producers in Indonesia with wholesale and retail customers worldwide, basing his project on a strict concept of fair trade and equal profit sharing. This project of his received recognition from many organisations and institutions, including the World Bank, who then partnered up with him and provided him with a lot of materials to further develop his business.

Five years later and he already has two online businesses blooming (the other one is sourcingindonesia.com), in addition to the recent kemana.com, scheduled to be officially launched this month.

Being a total cynic, I ask Benz what makes this online store so special. He welcomes my cynicism with a sarcastic smirk and patiently explains all the perks this particular online store has to offer.

From his passionate explanation, I learn that kemana.com is an all-round cyber store. First of all, it provides everything you’re looking for on the face of the Earth – from electronics, to books, to fashion and everything in between – integrated with completely secure payment systems (they give you the option of paying with your credit card or through ATM machines), 24-hour customer service, supported IT management based in New York and trusted shipping and handling. And secondly, it’s also been designed so that you can create a “wish list” that you can share with your friends or the public.

“Celebrities do this for charity. They share their buy-me-a-one-dollar-gift with the public to raise money. Our customer can use this for their birthdays or weddings,” he adds. And also, for the Narcissus among us, the store lets you create your own personal profiles where you can upload your pretty pictures so the world can adore you and all that jazz. “It’s not only for people in Indonesia. It can also be for millions of the Indonesians who are currently abroad and want to buy something for their families or friends in Indonesia,” he points out. Okay, okay, my cynicism admits defeat.

All this at the tender age of 32. I’m curious. “How did you do it?” I ask. Leaning back in his chair and taking a gulp from his glass of iced tea, Benz laughs and replies, “I don’t know, you know, it was just really organic. Everything that happens in life is just a series of events and chance encounters. I think with me, it was just luck mixed with opportunity. When life throws an opportunity at you, you have to seize it and make something out of it. Make something happen, be open to everything.

Don’t dwell on the negative, and just know your limits. Know when to quit, know when to stop. Just do something, and keep at it.”

This mentality sounds familiar to me and I just had to ask, “When is your birthday?”
“May 24th. Why?”

Aha I knew it. Classic Gemini traits.

“A Gemini. It takes one to spot one,” I reply with a smirk, my hand raised in the air to give him a high five. “So, I suppose you’re a hardcore multi-tasker too, then?”
“Haha, well, I dive, I make movies, I do graphic design, I play guitar, I play basketball and soccer [editor: It’s football, mate] and I help handicapped children.

Not much going on, really.”

Sarcasm dripping, he leans in smugly as if about to divulge a top secret federal conspiracy, and whispers, “Listen, life isn’t about finding yourself, it’s about creating yourself and being the best at what you do.”

And that is how Christopher Benz taught me the secret of life.

To start online shopping and experiencing this latest trend visit www.kemana.com

Bali Events

2010-02-02T23:51:00.000-08:00

art as a medium of change

Art Café featured a provocative exhibition by Gianyar-based artist Made Muliana Bayak.

Seni Sebagai Media Perubahan or Art as a Medium for Change is a multimedia exhibition featuring paintings, three-dimensional works, and sound installations. The exhibition’s opening featured a collaborative sound installation that explores the relationship between visual and musical arts. Made Muliana Bayak has teamed up with American composer and Professor of Music, Dr Kristian Twombly, to create “an immersive sound happening”.

Art Café, Jl. Sari Dewi no. 17, Seminyak, T: 0361 736 751

intercontinental bali resort teams up with ripcurl school of surf

InterContinental Bali Resort has recently opened a new beach recreational centre at the Resort, to be managed and operated by Bali-based surf and board school, the Rip Curl School of Surf.
The recreational centre is for the exclusive use of in-house guests with a wide range of water sports activities and tuition at Jimbaran Bay. There are also introductory dive lessons under the guidance of a trained instructor focused in the Resort pool. The school also provides rental equipment for guest use as well as guided tours along the local coastline for snorkelling, fishing or sightseeing.

InterContinental Bali Resort, Jl. Uluwatu
no. 45, Jimbaran, T: 0361 701 888

an intelligent world: a dual exhibition

In general, the graphic arts – etchings, lithographs and woodcuts – have attracted little interest in Indonesia, whose collectors have long been obsessed with paintings.

This has been changing in recent years, as proven by this exhibition of two Balinese artists, I Made Saryana and Mega Sari, who purposely chose the esoteric and technically challenging art of woodcutting.

Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resort Jimbaran Bay, T: 0361 701 010

westin resort is earthchecked

Westin Resort Nusa Dua Bali has achieved the prestigious Green Globe Certified Silver status under the Green Globe Earthcheck Certification programme managed by EC3 Global. The global programme recognises The Westin Resort Nusa Dua Bali’s commitment to operating at the world’s highest environmental standards.

The Certification process involves either an onsite audit or offsite assessment by an EC3 Global approved independent third party Green Globe Auditor. Prior to achieving Certification, The Westin Resort Nusa Dua Bali successfully benchmarked using the Earthcheck tool, against key environmental indicators including energy and water consumption, total waste production and community commitment.

The Westin Resort, PO Box 36, Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 906

we are one

A cool new shop has recently opened its doors in Bali called ONE. This street wear retail heaven stocks breakthrough edgy labels such as Dead Boy, Mad, 16Ds (Sixteen D’Scale), Nikicio, oneandahalf, Eat, Sukah, Capital, Poei Oei, and Flat Street, and features artwork by Rano Dwi Pantara and Dimas Aditya (Mad Artists).

ONE Shop, Jl. Drupadi no. 2, Seminyak, E:oneshopbali@gmail.com

be reborn
Until February 6

A solo exhibition by Bambang Adi Pramono, Reborn showcases some of the artist’s most exquisite sculptures, crafted with love, without pretention and made from wood, metal, and containing visual concepts that capture today’s social anomalies, controversies and opinions.

Hanna Art Space, Pengosekan, Ubud, www.hannaartspace.com

blown away
February 26-March 5

Blowing Smoke is a non-profit event designed to engage the Bali community and its international network in a collective effort to create, appreciate, and celebrate art, and in doing so, raise money for the Narayan Seva Children’s Home in Singaraja.
People across all age groups and artistic backgrounds were invited to contribute one piece of artwork, in a form and medium of their choice, based on the theme “blowing smoke”. The theme is conceptual and open to each person’s interpretation, be it literal, abstract, or anything in between and beyond. Therefore, expect a melting pot of arts on exhibition, and keep your eyes, ears and mind open.

Tarita Studio, Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai no. 88, B-C, Denpasar, T: 0361 864 8000

sepia, an exhibition by karyana
February 4

Karyana’s penchant for fleeting impressions has recently led him to a moody space that borders on the abstract. While some of his paintings are clearly inspired by the world that surrounds him on his native island of Lombok, others, which more resemble Rorschach tests delve into a mystery that provokes one’s imagination. While careful study may reveal a hidden horse or dancer, these can easily fade back into the whole as if they never existed.

Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resort Jimbaran Bay, T: 0361 701 010

boom bass and all that jazz / Daily at 7:30pm

Enjoy a different brand of jazzy funk everyday at Jazz Café, with talented musicians and artists coming to light up the night. Performing Jazz, Blues, Latin, Funk, Soul and World Music, Jazz Café offers a snazzy night of sultry soul. Jazz Café, Jl. Sukma, Ubud, T: 0361 976 594

tie the knot with prestige

For the ultimate wedding, the stunning Cloud Nine Chapel on the beach is an exceptional venue, unparalleled in setting and service.

A combination of modern and classic designs create an air of timeless elegance, complete with a dazzling Swarovski chandelier and a traditional bell tower, which add a romantic charm, together with a pond which features cascading water fountains.

Whether for intimate celebrations or a grand wedding reception, the St Regis Bali Resort also provides an elegant beachfront stage with the refined Astor Ballroom, along with additional venues, the Amphitheatre and the Dulang at the Tropical Park. Dedicated events organisers are at hand to ensure the smooth running of all personal events.

St. Regis Resort Bali, Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot S6, PO Box 44, Nusa Dua,
T: 0361 847 8111

The Art of Island Wooing

2010-02-02T23:46:00.000-08:00

sunset cocktails and candlelit dinners might all be very well for valentine’s day, but here, on the island, dear don juans and mae wests, you’ve really got to show a little more imagination: cocktails and candlelight are de rigueur every day of the year here, after all

Woo your lover with your mind by thinking up something a little out of the ordinary to do. If something below isn’t actually on the day itself, give a little hand-made voucher pledging to redeem it when the time is right; and then, of course, offer cocktails and a candlelit dinner. Here are ten alternative ideas that might just improve your love life:

set sail while the sun rises
Hire a colourful local sailing boat from one of the bowl-helmet clad boatmen along sleepy Sanur beach to enjoy the pastel-coloured sky as the sun peeks behind distant, white-cliffed Nusa Penida. Pack a thermos of coffee and a few croissants to munch on as you and your beloved enjoy the views. The insect-like traditional boats will use sail if there’s enough wind, otherwise you’ll chug along using the engine.

Another fine spot to watch the big sky’s baby pinks and blues melt away is from Amed. With Lombok in the distance, watch your boatman trawl for fish as you tell your lover you’ve already snared the catch of the day. Wherever you head, organise the boat the day before, so you can be sure your boatman will be there right before dawn. Negotiate the full price and length of time you’ll be out beforehand, too. For Sanur, expect to pay around Rp. 200,000 per hour, though of course it all depends on your negotiating skills. Amed should be slightly cheaper.

get physical while the sun sets
Impress your beau with your knowledge of Bali’s best beaches and head to Balangan on the Bukit for a sunset walk, heart-to-heart and a back-to-basics beer at one of the half-dozen or so bamboo warungs.

This excellent surfing beach has long been on surfers’ maps but it still feels like an adventure to get here. These days it’s quickly changing. You’ll be able to head back one day, say after your first child is born, and reminisce about back-in-the-day.

Alternatively, ride into the sunset along Batu Belig beach on a couple of horses booked ahead of time from Umalas Equestrian Resort. The pounding of hooves into the volcanic sand, the vivid sky, and the thundering surf...you get the idea. A two-hour beach tour will set you back US$ 72 per person. (www.balionhorse.com)

have a whirlwind romance
Bali is amazing at ground level, but even more so viewed from above. To really knock the socks off that someone special, charter a helicopter to whisk you both away into the big blue. Get a completely different perspective on those dramatic volcanoes, enamelled lakes and paddies, beaches, ancient temples in impossible locations and towering white cliffs.

Air Bali has charter flights starting at US$ 990 for a 30-minute flight down to Uluwatu, for a maximum of four people. At that price, you may want to make it a double date, but either way you’ll be conjuring a priceless memory to last a lifetime. You may want to progress to one of the quieter suggestions on this list if you’re thinking of popping that lifetime question though, as it’ll be a little too noisy on board for whispering sweet nothings. And of course, make sure ahead of time that you check on whether the object of your desire is afraid of heights. (www.airbali.com)

learn about the birds and the bees
Lace up your hiking boots (or not – the boss does these walks in bare feet) and head to the breathtaking hills of Ubud with Victor Mason and his eagle-eyed sidekick Wayan Sumadi. Binoculars and lover in hand, wander with the pair on an enlightening walking tour through the paddy, wetlands, plantation and remaining old-growth forest jungle, pointing out birds, butterflies, dragonflies, interesting plants and all sorts of intriguing natural oddities.

Revive along the way by sipping a young green coconut via a hand-fashioned straw. British-born Victor and Balinese Su have been running the offbeat walks since 1993 and their banter and exhaustive knowledge of the area will impress, well, whomever it is you’re trying to impress. (www.balibirdwalk.com)

listen to the sounds of silence
Yes, you’re in love: Gaze adoringly into each other’s eyes, not even murmuring words of endearment but simply, silently floating on air...well, in water.
Buddy up with your beau and take the plunge diving for a date with a little drama. You’ll need to have appropriate certification to go on a scuba dive to any of the truly interesting dive sites, so either take an entry level course if you haven’t got your card or try an introductory dive, which allows you to glimpse the underwater world under the watchful eyes of instructors.

If that all seems like too much effort, consider snorkelling - when that big scary fish glides past you’ll have the perfect excuse to hold hands. Scuba Duba Doo offers snorkelling safaris and introductory dives as well as the PADI open-water course. (www.divecenterbali.com)

scream and shout and then make out
Bali Treetop Adventure Park at Bedugul is set amid towering – you guessed it – trees. Corporate groups use the park for team building exercises but individuals can also strap on the safety gear and get high – as high as 20 metres. You’ll flit from tree to tree using suspended bridges, spider nets, flying foxes, swings and other tortuous looking devices. It looks a lot easier than it actually is, so you’ll probably have a few arguments working out how to get to the end of the course – think Amazing Race, without the cameras – but then you’ll have the rest of the evening to make it up to each other.

Walk-in cost is US$ 20 per person. Too daunting? Sedate strawberry picking at one
of the Bedugul farms might instead bring out your best inner Jane Austen character.
(www.balitreetop.com)

picnic in the park
Pack a picnic hamper of wine, cheese, breads, dips and pastries (a one-stop shop such as the Bali Catering Company or Bali Deli will do the trick) and dine al fresco, sans sand. That’s right, forget about the beach and head instead to verdant Bedugul Botanical Gardens for a spacious spread of lawn as well as an array of exotic plants.

A world away from paddy and surf, this cool spot is popular with picnicking locals but is so sprawling you’re bound to find a quiet corner to yourselves. If you do insist on a beachside picnic, hire an open-air VW with a driver, don scarves and sunnies and zip over to tucked away Whitesand Beach (Pasir Putih). Volks World offers full day trips for Rp. 450,000, including driver.

get wiped out
Of course, your lover already metaphorically wiped you out when you met, but how about experiencing the real deal together? Surfing after all is at heart all about the romance: the romance of the ocean, the romance of the crashing waves, the romance of being all alone when you catch that perfect tube.

Rip Curl School of Surf offers a range of learn-to-surf classes, including private lessons you could arrange for two (one 75-minute class costs US$ 100 for one person).

An alternative wipe-out might be white-water rafting on the Ayung River in Ubud. You’ll need to join with others for your adventure but amid the scenery – slicing through volcanic foothills draped with rainforest – and the adrenaline rush, you’ll only have eyes for you-know-who. Sobek organises two-hour expeditions for two costing US$79 per person.
(www.schoolofsurf.com, T: 0361 735 858)
(www.balisobek.com)

beat a retreat
Ingredients: One small bag, one lover and one cleansing, spiritual hideaway. Directions: Mix for several days, with dashes of yoga, swimming and massage. Recipe for: A truly reconnected couple ready to face the world united again.
Magical Desa Seni, an array of individual houses shipped from around the Indonesian archipelago nestled in the rice fields of Canggu, offers regular yoga classes as well as an array of spiritual classes and retreats listed on their website. Their food is mostly organic, mostly vegetarian, and much of it comes directly from their garden.

Spend time unwinding, retuning your bodies and getting in touch with each other again. A lower budget option but in the same vein is mountainside Prana Dewi, which offers regular yoga and meditation retreats along with organic food. (www.desaseni.com)
(www.balipranaresort.com)

let the love flow free
Forget boring old ordinary sensual massages at spas overlooking the sea. Take an intelligent approach to massage and use it to unblock any energy bottlenecks in your body, helping not just your romantic life, but your holistic self.

Ketut Arsana, a Balinese Mahatma therapist, is the founder of Ubud’s renowned Bodyworks, where physical, mental and spiritual healing is the order of the day. Book well ahead of time for consecutive half-hour massages including chakra healing with the master himself for Rp. 550,000.

Chakras are energy centres in the spine, with each of the seven chakras representing major areas of life as well as physical reactions in parts of the body. Chakra healing will clear any blocked energy, allowing the chakras, and therefore the person, to function as completely as possible. Read between the lines, people!
(www.ubudbodyworkscentre.com)

BALI AFTER DARK

2010-01-23T23:00:00.000-08:00

Night life in Bali starts late, which means around midnight. Many visitors wonder where crowds of expats suddenly come from around 1:00 in the morning – even when all of Kuta has been very quiet during the whole evening, the IN-places often become crowded after midnight.

There's a simple explanation: during the early evenings many of Bali's night owls either still work, visit friends at home, or simply sleep. Most of them visit pubs, bars, or discos only in the early morning hours. Therefore, if you plan a night out don't start your dinner too early. Between 9:00 p.m. and midnight there are not many places we can recommend.

Visitors looking for company don't need to worry. Wherever you go in Sanur and the Kuta area, there are many other single travellers with the same problem around – day and night. In Bali's discos you'll meet also many "kupu kupu malams" ("night butterflies" or working girls) and young boys who compete with the females and service all sexes. All taxi drivers know the more popular karaoke bars and massage parlours in Kuta and Denpasar, and the various "Houses of ill Repute" in Sanur's narrow back lanes.

As reported in the BALI travel FORUM: "Prostitution is illegal in Bali. However, like in many countries, everyone turns a blind eye. Many girls can be found in nightclubs and bars in most areas. They look usually just like the girl next door, albeit with a bit more make up on, and they usually dress to please the eye. For the most part, they are gentle, easy to be with, and a lot of fun if you want to dance, drink and have a little fun with. Most will be yours for the whole night for about 500,000 Rupiah although prices range from 200,000 Rupiah to 1,500,000 Rupiah and more – depending on the season, the time of night and the situation".

SANUR & NUSA DUA

Some quite popular places in Sanur are the BORNEO PUB on Jalan Danau Tamblingan and the TROPHY PUB in front of the Sanur Beach Hotel. Both, however, close around 1:00 a.m.

The discos and pubs in Nusa Dua's 5-star hotels are often rather empty. They are mostly frequented by those visitors who stay in-house and are too tired to make the 30 minutes drive to Kuta.

THE "KUTA" AREA

Everybody looking for some action and fun in the evening goes to "Kuta" which nowadays means the area extending about 4 miles or 7 kilometers North from the original village of Kuta and includes now Legian, Seminyak and even Basangkasa. Here are most of the better entertainment places offering EVERYTHING single male or female visitors as well as couples might be looking for.

There are several places such as CASABLANCA etc. – down-market open-air pubs and very noisy discos full of stoned Aussies courting Javanese "Kupu Kupu Malams". PEANUTS Discotheque on Jalan Raya Legian at the Jalan Melasti corner (about the border between Kuta and Legian) has been re-opened very soon after it was gutted by a fire. The huge (air-conditioned) dance floor is often crowded, guests are a mix of locals and younger foreign visitors.

Closer to the center of Kuta you find the BOUNTY SHIP with a noisy, over-air-conditioned disco in the basement and the re-built PADDY'S not far from the original PADDY'S. Much more "IN" nowadays is the newer M-BAR-GO which features really good music and a better crowd than most other places. SKY GARDEN is also on the main road and an interesting place to go. The bar is on the top floor, the three storeys below feature all different lounge areas. The menu is huge but the food is often disappointing. When most places close around 2.00 or 3.00 in the morning, night owls of all kinds continue drinking at nearby MAMA'S until sunrise.

For a somewhat more civilized evening out, you can have dinner and a couple of drinks at the bar at either TJ's or KORI in Kuta, at the open street side bar at NERO Bali right opposite AROMAS Restaurant in Kuta, at the re-built MACCARONI CLUB in Kuta, at MADE'S WARUNG in Basangkasa (see BALI - Restaurants to Enjoy), or at the trendy HU'U Bar & Lounge near the Petitenget temple, LA LUCIOLA and THE LIVING ROOM.

One of the most "in" venues in Bali is KU DE TA right on the beach adjacent to the Oberoi hotel. This is the place to see and be seen, and from late afternoon there is a DJ providing rather noisy entertainment for Bali's beautiful people. This is a great place to watch Bali's famous sunsets, but expect to pay for a cocktail around US$10 and more.

Something more outrageous and only for open-minded people are the HULU CAFE shows in Garlic Lane between Jalan Padma and Jalan Melasti in Kuta/Legian, a place which called itself the "only real gay bar in all of Bali" with drag shows starting at 11:00 p.m. three times per week. The performances are actually kind of funny! Since the original HULU CAFE burnt down in 2008, the shows are now performed at 10 p.m. and 11 p.m. on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays at the BALI BEACH SHACK in the same lane

You'll find a large and quite popular HARD ROCK CAFE right at the beginning of Kuta's beach road with live music from 11 p.m. to 2 a.m. Expect to find many singles of all kinds here looking for company. If you think this is too noisy, too crowded, or the air-conditioning too cold for you, try the CENTER STAGE at the HARD ROCK RESORT located in the back of the CAFE. As the name implies, the band performs on a raised stage in the middle of the huge round lobby bar until 11:00 p.m. Both HARD ROCK outlets are expensive by Bali standards.

The JAYA PUB on the main road in Seminyak features also live music and attracts many Indonesian customers who don't mind the chilling air-conditioning and the sometimes horrible bands and singers. MANNEKEPIS, a pleasant Belgian pub/restaurant right opposite the QUEEN'S TANDOOR in Seminyak, features live Jazz on Thurdays, Fridays and Saturdays and serves good meals at reasonable prices.

Seminyak's best place to have a drink and some fun after 11 p.m. are nowadays probably OBSESSION World Music Bar and SANTA FEE Bar & Grill, Jalan Abimanyu (also known as Gado Gado Road or Jalan Dhyana Pura). Life music, reasonably priced cocktails and the friendly girls attract many visitors until the early hours. Other popular night spots nearby in the same street are SPY BAR, LIQUID, Q BAR and MIXWELL ("for the alternative lifestyle"), SPACE and THE GLOBE. New bars and "Chill-Out Lounges" are opening all the time, and most of them feature DJ's and/or live music on certain nights. Just walk down the road and check them out !

Later, from 2:00 a.m., it's party time at the SYNDICATE, BACIO and DOUBLE SIX, a large open-air disco with several bars, big dance floor, and many tables. All three are located next to each other on the beach in Seminyak and charge an entrance fee of 30,000 to 100,000 Rupiah (depending on the day) for which you get a voucher for a free drink. Here and in nearby DEJA VU and LA VITA LOCA you'll find most of Bali's night owls drinking and dancing the night away until 4:30 a.m. or so. (The legendary GADO GADO Disco has been re-converted into a restaurant.)

Also, watch out for notices and small posters in Kuta and Seminyak announcing special events such as Full Moon Parties, House Warming Parties, Body Painting Parties, etc, etc. If these "parties" are announced to the public (even if only by word-of-mouth), they are open for everybody. You'll have to pay for your drinks, therefore, don't be shy.

UBUD

Don't expect too much here. We are not Ubud nightlife experts, but names frequently mentioned include PUTRA BAR, Jl. Monkey Forest (every night live music ranging from Reggae to rock), MAGIC BAR, Jl. Monkey Forest (live music and sometimes great atmosphere), JAZZ CAFE, Jl. Tebesaya (live music and jam sessions on different nights), EXILE BAR (Saturday nights only, great music), and FUNKY MONKEY (early hours cafe).

Lighten up!

2010-01-17T00:05:00.000-08:00

anyone hanging around the bali art scene knows that
balloon-like egos and narcissistic strutting are standard fare among artists and gallery owners. in the battle to become king of the hill, the biggest victim is a much-needed sense of levity

Historically, Balinese and Indonesian art were anonymous until westerners brought their ways and began clamouring for signatures. This does not mean that the great masters of Indonesia’s past were not acknowledged – everyone from king to peasant knew who the most talented artists and artisans were.

The same situation existed largely in the west until the early Italian Renaissance, which marks the first appearance of self indulgent artist superstars who would keep the Pope as well as Medici princes waiting for hours.

In Bali, this would begin in the 1930s when tourists and art collectors from the west demanded that the paintings and sculptures they bought be “signed by the artist”. Since the art was not made for local consumption and it was considered rude to refuse a request from a guest, those early artists did as they were bid. In some cases, such as Gusti Lempad who could only write in Balinese, the paintings were signed by other family members. Little did anyone realise that by doing so they opened the floodgates of future artistic megalomania!

The bad news for the vast majority of artists is that few among them will ever achieve the status of Picasso or Matisse no matter how much they or their gallery owners rant and rave. The drive for stardom planted in the already-sensitive artistic mind can result in numerous negative effects including narcissism, delusion and even mild forms of schizophrenia. In Bali, this translates to openings that often ooze with gravity reminiscent of state funerals, religious cult meetings or heavy metal concerts.

The British artist Paul Whitehead is the perfect counterpoint to this insanity. This is not to say that Whitehead is sane (in fact he is a certified nut case) but that he long ago realised that he had nothing to prove to anyone, thereby liberating himself from all the ballyhoo. “Who wants to be Van Gogh, anyway?” After all the guy only sold one painting in his lifetime (to his brother), cut off his ear to spite a bully who could not care less (Gauguin) and has been portrayed as a crazy spontaneous artist even though his letters prove that he was completely calculated and lucid about what he was doing.

Although Whitehead might not have been completely lucid when he began designing album covers for the likes of Fats Domino in London’s Swinging Sixties, by the time he created a series of ground breaking designs for the mega-group Genesis, which defined the new music art of post-psychedelic era, he probably had some inkling of who he was and what he was doing. Ironically, exactly like the ancient Balinese artists, while the insiders knew him and sought him out, he was for the general public largely anonymous. The lack of ego stroking probably did him well.

Today, Whitehead has settled in Bali and now specialises in paintings that can be best described as visual puns intended to nudge into contemplating the state of the world. While his work utilises juxtapositions that can be compared to those of Belgium Surrealist, René Margaritte, this is only coincidental. Paul Whitehead does not aspire to be anyone else except himself. This was proven by his December exhibition Questions? at the Ganesha Gallery at the Four Seasons Resort Jimbaran.

Curiously one of the least expected children of his self-effacing humour is occasional and perplexing profundity. This can be seen in the painting, Accident, whereby a cup of spilled milk (don’t cry over it) has created a puddle on the floor in the shape of Bali, which asks many more questions than can ever be answered.

Although its message is clearer, Furniture, the image of a giant tree with a bird and tiny boy reminds us of the multifunctional uses of the tree, as well as deforestation. It could easily be a poster for Bali’s Green School.

The power of less pretentious and more focused work can also be seen in the current exhibition, Intelligent World, which features the latest works of two Balinese graphic artists, I Made Saryana and Mega Sari. Amazingly Saryana and Mega Sari, both whom formally studied in Jogjakarta, have chosen the oldest and most difficult of all the graphic arts – woodcut, which is usually associated with Albrecht Dürer and Katsushika Hokusai.

Their choice of this ancient medium was courageous not only because of the difficulty of the technique, but more so because the lack of understanding and appreciation of all classic graphic arts – woodcut, etching and stone lithography – by Indonesian collectors who have favoured paintings on canvas since the Sukarno Era. Fortunately, a growing number of collectors have come to understand that signed, limited series of art prints are not only modestly priced and attractive but also genuine art, not cheap photocopies. These techniques also have unique qualities as explained by Mega Sari and Saryana who emphasise that their original attraction to woodblock making was the edgy textures that result applying multiple handcut wood blocks to handmade paper.

Saryana shows his mastery of the art in complex, colourful compositions inspired by Balinese mythology and everyday life. In Pura-Pura Baik (Making Believe Everything Is All Right), he makes use of angular lines and the tension of a coiled naga (dragon), the symbol of the Balinese Underworld, to express an ambivalent emotional state of being. Another print, Endless Prayer, is also an absolute masterpiece.

In comparison, the prints of Mega Sari, who has held numerous exhibitions in Japan, is like her gender, decisively more feminine and subtle in colour and form.

In particular she is attracted to flowers seen in A Parade of Dragonflies and still life compositions with vases. Like Saryana, the surfaces of her prints are highly textured and complex but instead mirror a radically different but equally valid perspective. Twenty five years after the publication of E. F. Schumacher’s “Small is Beautiful” and the first year of the 2nd decade of the 21st century (Y2K + 10), it is probably a good moment to remember that Bali is a small island. While large egos are inevitable, lets celebrate smaller victories and accomplishments too. Like the cool clear water of mountain streams, the benefits are many. Artists and megalomaniacs take note of Paul Whitehead, I Made Saryana and Mega Sari – deflate your ambitions and lighten up, at least occasionally.

Métis Magic

2010-01-17T00:01:00.000-08:00

the recently opened métis restaurant is the answer to cravings for the now-gone but still legendary kafe warisan. we go behind the scenes to dig into their culinary charm

Said Alem sits behind a desk at the nerve centre of the new MÉTIS Restaurant and Gallery. It’s not that him being there disturbs the fine setting of the establishment’s interior, he actually makes a very good looking live statue, but it just doesn’t look like a pose he strikes very often. The man’s tall, fit, casually clad in a T-shirt and bursting with an energy that can’t possibly allow him to remain immobile for long. This energy, no doubt, has been tapped into repeatedly recently as he and his business partner have worked relocating their old restaurant, the Bali institution of Kafe Warisan, to spacious, modern MÉTIS.

Perched on the paddies of Jalan Petitenget, the freshly open eatery is already a must-visit restaurant on the ever-shifting island scene.

Outside the office doors, workers scurry to put finishing touches to areas of the new restaurant, a stylish U-shaped building with an Indonesian-inspired roof soaring overhead. It’s all sumptuous browns and beiges, golds and bronzes, the decor understated yet exuberant.

Along one side of the 160-seat restaurant is a hip lounge-bar, with sleek wooden tables and chairs and geometrically inspired cushions. The feel is ever so slightly “Mad Men”-esque. Vodka gimlet, anyone?

But Said has not even heard of the US television series, set in a New York City advertising agency in the 1960s, joking as to whether I’m asking if he’s a mad man when I inquire whether it was perhaps a source of visual inspiration.

Perhaps it’s a question he’s been asked many times, business being what it is in Bali, but Said is apparently quite sane. The chef came to the island some 17 years ago after starting a cocktail bar at a ski resort in France from scratch. He’s often worn entrepreneur’s hat together with his chef’s toque.

Said worked as a chef at the Bali Bird Park when it opened back in the day, before helping others start a few restaurants, and finally taking over Kafe Warisan with his business partner Nicolas “Doudou” Tourneville. They ran Warisan for almost 13 years. Both cleverly married fine French cuisine with classic Balinese paddy views which deservedly earned their restaurant a legendary status.

Warisan’s lease, however, was up in October last year and though they could have stayed, “The deal offered was not very interesting for us,” explains Said. Renovations were required on the too-small kitchen, which on top of four or five years’ rent in advance, made starting from scratch somewhere else more financially appealing.

The pair did not own the Warisan name – the old restaurant is being renovated and will reopen under the same name in 2010 – nor did they own the gallery at the old Warisan, itself a well-known antiques store. So they decided on a new name, and to open a gallery themselves, along with a patisserie, currently stocked with delicate pastel-coloured macaroons and glistening chocolates, as well as a jewellery store, with the works of five or six designers on display.

The concept, in a nutshell, of this ambitious development? Similar to Warisan but more modern?

“Exactly!” Said exclaims. “We wanted to keep the U-shape because it really worked. People really liked the terrace. And we wanted a nice bar/lounge, so we have worked to expand it and have a chill out space with sofas, because that’s what people are looking for now.”

MÉTIS also has a private function room upstairs – it’s being prepped for a glamorous looking event tonight – which is something Warisan did not have, making it awkward sometimes when trying to mix a large group into the restaurant.

“I’m very happy with the look,” Said says, which he describes as “Warisan, updated”.

On the other hand, food wise, most things stay the same.
“We have some items we couldn’t take out – like the escargots, the foie gras, the duck confit,” he explains.

For the opening, about 40 percent of the items have changed, with more alterations on the agenda for early 2010. For example, the foie gras menu has been extended, while a completely new menu has been devised for the lounge, which Said says is more like a tapas menu – think freshly shucked oysters or a cheese plate.
Dessertarians take note: All the desserts have been changed because a French pastry chef is now on board.

Still, according to Said, MÉTIS is “a work in progress”. The entire Warisan team of 70 moved here and the overall team now numbers at around 110. However, more staff still needs to be hired. There’s a larger bar, a different floor configuration and larger tables, which all conspire to leave the staff running around a lot more, so more runners are what’s particularly needed. An upstairs terrace area is yet to be opened, waiting for more staff to be on hand.

Any dishes one should try? “All of them!” he claims. “We have a nice selection of foie gras – so our foie gras dishes. The meat too especially is really good quality – of beef, of lamb.”

Bali is seeing more fabulous restaurants opening, so why should people come here?

“Good food. And we are working hard to have good service – we are not there yet – and of course the atmosphere, the paddy field views – there are many things!”
The 250-square metre kitchen – six times larger than Warisan’s old facility – is just as impressive as the restaurant patrons are meant to see. The kitchen, infused with the sweet scent of roasting capsicums when I peek in, is air-conditioned.
The wine cellar is a similar size to what Warisan’s was but Said says he wants to double it.

“I want to have one of the best wine cellars in Bali – and I will,” he pledges.

He seems like the right person one wanting to head into the restaurant trade in Bali should ask for advice. What would he say?

“Have a strong character and passion... I like what I do, first of all. I’ve always been in the restaurant business, I mean as a chef before, but I really like what I do. I’m having fun. And I love working in Bali with the Balinese people.”

Land of Oysters

2010-01-16T23:55:00.000-08:00

it is mid december. mister rain man has started pouring out the buckets of nippy water he has been lining up all year. nevertheless, the rain doesn’t cease the singing, and a gem is found

Too bad”, I think out loud, “to be arriving in cloudy Manado after dark.”
Spears of yellow light crack open the sky every other minute or so and are followed by a deep ominous growl. If there had been a moon, it’d have been covered with ink-stained cotton. The night is wrapped in clouds, yet the frequent flashes of fire uncover a pretty, sleeping forest with white cows guarding its secrets.
The thirty minutes it takes to get to the Kima Bajo Resort & Spa fly by on a magic carpet of stories and making-polite-conversation inquiries.

Kima Bajo literally means oyster village, so I guess you could say I have been summoned to discover its pearl. As does the sparkly gem – one of nature’s most perfect forms – Kima Bajo and the Kima Bajo Resort & Spa both symbolise innocence, purity, perfection, humility, and a retiring character. It warms my insides when I choose to believe my own fictitious tale describing that Kima Bajo, too, is thought to be the result of lightning penetrating the oyster, and therefore regarded as the union of the fecundating forces, fire and water. It so represents birth and rebirth – fertility.

Sulawesi – Indonesia’s fourth largest island – stretches out like a squashed four-legged spider between Kalimantan (Borneo) and the Maluku Islands. The island’s forested mountains and breathtaking underwater world are surpassed only by its fascinating biology. Sulawesi is the largest and most central island of Wallacea (Wallace’s Line) – a unique region that refers to the remarkable change in wildlife that exists east of a figurative line drawn between Bali and Lombok and between Kalimantan and Sulawesi. As a result of the peculiar mix of plants and animals, you’ll find Asian monkeys sharing the forests with Australian cuscus mammals; Babirusa (deer-pig) – with tusks that curl upward through the snout – roam the area; a chicken-sized bird called the Maleo incubates its large eggs in hot volcanic soil; and the tiny teddy bear-like tarsier primate conquers the hearts of many with nothing more than a wide-eyed glance.

Last night’s clouds have given way to a ballet of woolly marshmallows pirouetting around the sun. It is the perfect day for a “tarsier tracking tour” (Rp. 85,000 for a guided trek) at the Tangkoko Nature Reserve in Bitung City – a two-hour drive from the resort – where the world’s smallest primate hides from curious eyes and an extraordinary large concentration of black crested macaques stroll around the woods.

I wonder as I wander out under the silky sky, how on earth the teeny tiny tarsier monkey is to defend itself against major threats. They include habitat loss due to illegal logging and forest conversion, the detrimental use of agricultural pesticides, predation by domestic cats and dogs, and illegal trapping for the pet trade and consumption. Sadly, it is cruelly understandable that the tarsier monkey is regarded as one of the world’s twenty-five most endangered species, as the ogling monkey is just so damn cute and edible.

During your first trip to Sulawesi, you will come to understand that most things can be eaten. Unusual foods such as bats, dogs and rats are sold at the island’s many morning markets where they lay barbecued, on a stick and ready to be devoured – head and all. The mere thought of smelling the blackened animals might make your stomach squeeze into the farthest corner of your abdomen, but no one can dispute it to be incredibly interesting.

Not all Sulawesi specialties involve memories of your precious Fifi, Batman or Stuart Little, though. Bubur Manado (vegetable and rice porridge with hot chillies), Nasi Jaha (sticky rice mixed with red onion and ginger, cooked in bamboo and coconut milk), Saguer (sweet and sour brew obtained from the sugar palm tree’s liquid; low in alcohol), and yummy coconut tarts are typically North Sulawesian and definitely worth a taste.

For now, perhaps most visitors to the four-armed island are looking to discover its mesmerising sea life and coral reefs, and for good reason. Diving possibilities range from the magnificent coral gardens at the Bunaken Marine Park or the Bangka Strait to the walls of multi-coloured fish and underwater volcanoes at the Sangihe Islands to the unusual and rarely seen critters at North Sulawesi’s Lembeh Strait.

North Sulawesi is known to be one of the last frontiers of pristine diving with remote islands and reefs. Not many diving locals, the world over, can outshine the exquisiteness and beauty of Indonesia’s coral jungles. Having never dived before, I have to limit my underwater expedition around Bunaken Island to sun-soaked hours of snorkelling around the boat or cooling dips in the translucent indigo-blue water. I tag along with Eco Divers – one of Manado’s top dive centres, based on the Kima Bajo Resort & Spa’s grounds.

Back on shore – looking out over majestic Mount Manado Tua, Siladen Island, extensive Bunaken Island, Mantehage Island, and the farthest and smallest of the minute island group, Nain Island – the sky licks away the remains of a scenic pink and purple sunset and darkens to a navy blue. After less than an hour it is as if the moon has poked a hole in the melancholic colour and out spills a fountain of tears.

getting there

There is a regular flight service to and from Singapore – with Silk Air – as well as to and from most major cities throughout the Indonesian archipelago. AirAsia offers its direct service between Kuala Lumpur, in Malaysia, and Manado three times a week. For domestic flights, you can rely on Garuda Airlines.

when to go

During the rainy season (November – February/March), some areas might be harder to get to as a result of floods. Temperatures in North Sulawesi are at their best in July and August.

where to stay

Kima Bajo Resort & Spa
Desa Kima Bajo Dusun I
Kecamatan Wori
Kab. North Minahasa
North Sulawesi
T: 0431 860 999
info@kimabajo.com
kimabajo
Eco Divers:
T: 0431 824 445
info@eco-divers.com
Gardenia Country Inn
(one hour drive from Kima
Bajo Resort & Spa)
Kakaskasen II, Tomohon
North Sulawesi
T: 0431 351 282
info@gardeniacountryinn.com
gardeniacountryinn

travel tips

As it is accustomed when travelling to tropical islands, you are in need of a good mosquito repellent, anti-malaria pills, suntan and after-sun lotion, Imodium tablets, a sunhat, a mixture of tolerance and patience, and a friendly smile in order for you to blend in with the local people. Also bring with you a pocketsize Indonesian dictionary, read up on local customs so you are able to avoid embarrassing situations, and learn how to count in Indonesian. Don’t stuff your backpack with beauty products, deodorants, shampoos, toothpastes, etc, from back home! You can find everything you need in Manado, including appropriate clothing and medication.
Watch out where you eat. The rule is: “go where it’s crowded” and if you’re not a fan of dog meat, stay away from “sate” carts with the letters RW written on them.
Buy bottled water, as your stomach might not be comfortable with boiled tap water.
Many divers enjoy underwater photography and wish to cultivate the best possible images or video from their dives. Their enthusiasm can often lead to damaging the environment as they poke critters into a more photogenic position, bend sea fans to better see pigmy seahorses, push framers into sensitive sponges, flash strobes relentlessly at critters who cannot escape, or cause stress through other means. Do follow these simple precautions: Boats should use mooring, NOT anchors!
Guides must take care to avoid other groups on the same site.
If an animal shows signs of stress, divers should leave it alone. Do not chase any creature that is trying to get away.
If divers are harassing any animal, or when they are handling marine life, guides should immediately signal them to stop and lead them away, informing them after the dive that such behaviour will not be tolerated.
If guides are harassing any animal or causing damage, guests should report them to the management.
Guides often want to make guests happy, but there is no situation in which it is acceptable to cause stress or damage just for the sake of a photograph or in order to more easily view marine life.
Visitors should not dive with operators who do not follow these simple rules.

Karma Spa - Top Draw

2010-01-16T23:52:00.000-08:00

it’s not one of the highest-located spas on the island, but it’s definitely one with one of the best views. and indubitably, one of the most innovative

the look
One of the best things about living in a place like Bali is that you don’t actually have to leave the island to feel like you’re somewhere else. Over the years, thanks to its tourism industry, the island has developed many a facet. There are now its Buddhist side, Indian corner, cosmopolitan areas and many others. Just like other popular areas in the world, Bali is becoming global.

Karma Kandara provides an escape from an escape. The massive villa complex is built on a hilly area with the best view of the Indian Ocean. And everything in it is built to maximise that advantage. When the sky is clear blue, it looks like you’re somewhere in Greece, probably in a scene from “Mamma Mia!”. Yes, the movie musical.

The walk to Karma Spa involves a lot of steps. To get to the spa, it’s mostly downhill, but still not for those with acrophobia.

However, once you arrive at the spa, it’s worth all your blood, sweat and tears. The lobby is an open-plan concept that’s still cool and serene even on a hot sunny day. The Indian Ocean is still very much visible. Blue and majestic, but far enough even for the most heights-fearing of us to know it’s finally safe enough to enjoy the sight, and not afraid of falling off the cliff.

the touch
Just like how it looks, Karma Spa’s touches (at least the one I had) were out of this island. Living on an island with millions of Balinese-style massages, once you surrender your body on that treatment bed, it automatically expects pointed pressures from well-trained Balinese fingers. And similarly, I did. But once the therapist started working using other parts of her hands (palms, elbows, knuckles, etc), I knew I was going on a different kind of trip. On top of that, while most massages starts on your left leg and then moves to your light leg, this one is designed to thoroughly work on one particular side of your body first before moving on to the other side. So instead of right leg – left leg – right back, it is right leg and moving upwards to right shoulder and neck before moving to the left side.

the ingredients
The Himalayan crystal healing journey starts with a body scrub made of Himalayan salt infused with crushed rosehips, juniper berries and aromatherapy oils. Then the treatment moves to the steam room where you are allowed 15 minutes to have a conversation with yourself while inhaling herbal steam. After that, powder body wrap is applied all over you once again to work on your skin before the massage and the facial.

the exceptional
One of the highlights of this spa complex is their Jacuzzi. It’s set on the edge of a cliff with a sublime ocean view that would make you excusable if you tried to convince yourself that you were watching God.

Karma Spa (Karma Kandara, Jl. Villa Kandara Banjar Wijaya Kusuma Ungasan, T: 0361 848 2200, karmakandara)

New Moon

2010-01-16T23:44:00.000-08:00

welcome to 2010? or is it still 1931? or 1943, 1431, 2552, or 2670? clearly the way we calculate years and when we number them from is a complicated matter and subject to some dispute around the world, not least here in bali where not only the measurement of time but also the calculation of the cosmological, religious and household significance of each day is an arcane science

The Balinese calendar is not for the faint hearted or numerically challenged. In addition to the solar based Gregorian system now commonly used throughout the world –365 days (usually) divided into 52 weeks of seven days and 12 months of 30, 31 or 28 days (usually) – two other distinct calendrical systems simultaneously circulate through it like geared wheels within wheels, both of which are riddled with their own complexities.

The first of these is the Saka or Sasih lunar calendar derived from one calculated in India in 79AD, which comprises 12 months (sasih) of 30 days, each month beginning on the day after the new moon (tilem), and its middle point marked by the full moon (purnama) 15 days later. To synchronise with the solar calendar, every 30 months an intercalary “leap month” is added. Because of this adjustment, and because 79AD constitutes its year zero, according to the Balinese lunar calendar we are now living in the year 1931. The day after the new moon on March 15 is Nyepi, the day of silence that marks the beginning of 1932.

This lunar calendar is accompanied by the 210-day Pawukon calendar indigenous to Java and Bali. This is divided into 30 individually named weeks or wuku and is believed to derive from the growing cycle of rice. The Pawukon “years” are not tallied and numbered but the system is crucial to determining the complex schedule of temple rituals and ceremonies and identifying the most auspicious and inauspicious days to perform a whole range of other activities from when to lay the foundations for a house to when to get your haircut.

But what day is it? The Pawukon calendar is further divided into concurrent “weeks” of one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine and ten days. The names of the days of these weeks, or “wara”.

The most important are the three, five and seven-day weeks: the Triwara, the Pancawara, and the Saptawara. Incidentally, each day of the Saptawara coincides with the seven days of the week in the Gregorian calendar so that Redite is the equivalent of Sunday, Coma is Monday and so forth right up to Saniscara which is the equivalent of Saturday. And not only because they occupy the same spaces in time: the names of each of the days in the Saptawara also refer to the same astral bodies referred to in the Gregorian week. For instance, Redite (Sunday) comes from the Balinese word for the Sun, while Saniscara (Saturday) refers to Saturn.

The three, five and seven-day wara repeat uncomplicatedly through the 210 day cycle, and the conjunctions between them are used to determine the most important religious ceremonies. One of the most significant of these is Kajeng Kliwon, the coincidence of the third day of the Triwara with the fourth day of the Pancawara. It is a day to beware of malevolent forces.

In the month known to many of us as January, named for Janus, the Roman God of beginnings and endings, Kajeng Kliwons fall on the 7th and 22nd. But this is just one of the many auspicious conjunctions. Another, known as Hari Tumpek Kandang, occurs on January 2 with the conjunction of Kliwon and Saniscara, a day to give offerings and prayers to domestic animals like pigs and cows. The 35 possible conjunctions between the days of the Pancawara and the Saptawara are also used to determine the astrological “star signs” of people born on those days.

The Pawukon is further divided into 35-day months representing a full cycle of five (x7) and seven (x5) -day weeks. Six of these make up a full Pawukon year, the end of which, while not celebrated for its own sake, is usually marked by important temple anniversaries (odalan). But because 210 is not evenly divisible by four, eight, or nine, the Caturwara, Asatawara, and Sangawara respectively, require the addition or repetition of extra days according to exact prescriptions. Furthermore, just to complicate matters, the one (Ekawara), two (Dwiwara) and ten-day (Dasawara) cycles, despite their apparently unproblematic numerical relationship with 210, are also subject to mathematical intervention to decide the order of their days. Each day of the Pancawara, Saptawara, and Dasawara has a number value or urip. They are as follows:

5, 2, 8, 6, 4, 7, 10, 3, 9, 1
5, 4, 3, 7, 8, 6, 9
9, 7, 4, 8, 5

To calculate which day it is in the one, ten and ten-day weeks you simply add the urip of the days occurring in the five and seven day weeks, then add one, then, if the sum is greater than ten, deduct ten. If the resulting number is even, then it is Pepet in the two-day week, and Luang in the one-day week; if the number is odd then it is Menga in the two-day week and not a day at all in the one-day week. To calculate the day of the ten-day week, the resulting number is matched against the urip of the ten-day week. This month for example, January 29, the day of the full-moon, is Paing Sukra, that is, the first day of the Pancawara whose urip is nine and the sixth day of the Saptawara, the urip of which is six, giving us the following equation:

(9 + 6 + 1) – 10 = 6

Therefore, January 29, as well as being a Friday, is Luang Pepet Pasah Jaya Paing Tungleh Sukra Guru Erangan Eraja in the wuku of Ugu and the lunar month of Kaulu and tonight you can settle back and enjoy that full moon!

bali events....!

2010-01-16T23:38:00.000-08:00

crystal clear

Kayumanis Spa at Ubud joins a number of illustrious spa brands across the Asia Pacific to be recognised in the Crystal Awards 2009. Success for the island of Bali also extends to COMO Shambhala Estate, which was chosen as Best Wellness Retreat.

Kayumanis Spa at Ubud (T: 0361 705 777, kayumanis)

join the club!

Sanur Beach Bali, the premium hotel in Sanur introduces the new Pool Villa Club. These beach front villas highlight the hotel’s continued efforts to provide guests with comfortable surroundings in a lush getaway. Located right on the beach and nestled in tropical surroundings, two pool villas indulge guests with spectacular ocean views.

Each villa with private terraces and pools also comes with a majestic bed, private dining area and beautiful gardens. Guests may take the option of dining at the gazebo while enjoying the beach over the ocean. Direct access to the white sands of Sanur Beach from the villa is another privilege for guests. The Pool Villa Club will make your holiday in Bali a memorable one.

Sanur Beach Bali (Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur, T: 0361 288 011)

give me a k, give me an l, give me an m

KLM Royal Dutch Airlines resumed their direct flights from Bali to Amsterdam on Dec 7. This airline last saw direct services to Bali in 1997, but has now reinstated the direct flight services to Europe and North America as well.

Operating three times a week, the 425-seater Boeing 777-300ER transits in Singapore on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday, and departs Denpasar at 9.30pm.

This flight will conveniently arrive in Amsterdam at 8am local time, with connections at Schiphol Airport to destinations across Europe and North America. The return flight to Bali departs Amsterdam every Tuesday, Friday and Sunday at 9pm and arrives on our island at 8pm the next day.

Special promotional fares will be offered from December until Mar 31, with booking periods ending on Jan 15, where a return flight is priced at a reasonable US$ 555. (airfrance)

damar terrace restaurant reopens

The new concept was designed by Yasuhiro Koichi of Japan’s Design Studio SPIN, who also designed the Rock Bar and other iconic restaurants and bars in Asia.
A new thatch-roofed bale (open-air gazebo) extends out over a pond with plush day beds that almost appear to float on water. Carved wooden partitions divide each day bed for maximum privacy, allowing guests to enjoy intimate dining while watching colourful koi fish dart beneath lotus plants lit by dozens of floating candles at night.

The original central bale has been completely renovated, with a large carved dragon hanging directly over the bar, made from recycled ancient ship wood

Damar Terrace Restaurant (AYANA Resort & Spa Bali,
Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran, T: 0361 702 222)

zona bebas, a collection of visual freedom
Until Jan 9

Curated by Putu Wirata Dwikora, Zona Bebas (Free Zone) showcases artworks by Arahmainani, Astari Rasjid, Ito Joyoatmojo, Made Djirna, Tatang BSP, and Sujana Suklu. Come and witness freedom in all its glory.

MahaArt Gallery (Club House Balibeach Golf Course,
Jl. Hangtuah, no. 58, Sanur, T: 0361 289 566)

questions by paul whitehead
Until Jan 4

Opened in Dec 10, the art of Paul Whitehead stands as proof of the old saying that “first impressions never last”. His favourite technique is to catch the viewer off guard with a visual pun that mirrors a wry sense of humour and possibly a profound message.

A graduate of a phenomenal era, his contemplative paintings and antics are guaranteed to amuse, surprise and astonish art lovers and fools this holiday season.

Ganesha Gallery (Four Seasons Resort Jimbaran Bay, T: 0361 701 010)

steve aoki clubs out klapa
January 3

Famous Los Angeles DJ Steve Aoki pumps up Klapa to usher in the new decade. Check out hellobali’s Afterhours department for more information about this multi-talented remixer and all-around hip kid.

Klapa (Jl. New Kuta Beach, Pecatu Indah Resort, T: 0361 848 4581)

animadness at the delicious onion
Every Thursday, 8pm

This month, Delicious Onion will feature Japanese anime as their theme for Thursday Movie Night. Some flicks that will make their roster this month include the critically acclaimed “Spirited Away” and super-cute film from Studio Ghibli, “Ponyo”.

Delicious Onion (Jl. Drupadi, no. 1001, T: 0856 383 3750)

lux lumina: a solo exhibition
Until Jan 14

Filippo Amato Sciascia will present a solo exhibition of his recent works titled Lux Lumina at Kendra Gallery of Contemporary Art from the Dec 12 until Jan 14. Lux Lumina (Luminous Light) refers to the characteristics in Sciascia’s paintings that expose artificial light observed through optical technology using photographic and digital media. The works of Sciascia in Lux Lumina visualises light in its capacity as an element in photography, the most current medium that is thought to deal with truth and reality.

Kendra Gallery (Jl. Drupadi, no. 88B, Seminyak, T: 0361 736 628)

Is Bali Really The Best Island in The World?

2010-01-16T23:34:00.000-08:00

plenty of media fora have done their own surveys and came to a conclusion that bali is the best island in the world, but is it really? to welcome the arrival of 2010, we think it’s the perfect time to find out the truth. not because we don’t believe that it is, but because we love bali so much that we want nothing less than reality

how we do it
The number 100 symbolises perfection. And so does 10. Therefore, we have divided our scoring system into ten categories, where the highest score is (obviously) 10, which then will be added up to measure how close Bali is to reach 100 (read: perfection).

To avoid scoring fallacy, we’ve handpicked our survey respondents. They are people who are knowledgeable about Bali, experts in the fields mentioned as categories. They love this island, but they are also fair. So after a qualitative survey, here is the truth about our beloved island:

1.nature and outdoor activities
We think one of the best proofs of the quality of nature here is the amount of animals you see in your house everyday. Lizards, geckos, dogs, snakes, you name it. On top of that, you can also do almost anything outdoors, from mountain hiking, bird watching, parasailing, surfing to riding a camel. It’s the best place to be for those who want to stop wearing shoes and go barefoot all the time. Score: 10

2.music and nightlife
Underground bars. Check. Live music venues. Check. Cocktail bars with amazing sunset views. Check. Performances by famous international DJs. Check. Gay bars. Check. A road-side haunt with the best martinis on this hemisphere. Check. Other watering holes in which you can get completely smashed. Check. But is Bali’s nightlife scene comparable to that of Ibiza? Has the island been consistently producing successful musicians? Yes, it would have been a very good score if it weren’t for those two reasons. But it’s getting better all the time and we are fully aware of this. Therefore, to encourage even more buzz, we come to a decision on a score: 06

3.food and drink
Most people, especially us here at hellobali, have learned that visiting or moving to Bali equals weight gain. What else do you do when it’s hot outside - but eat? Or is that just us? In terms of quantity, there’s no question whether the island has enough restaurants for all of us to eat out at. But in terms of quality, Bali has not yet earned the world status as the island of fine food. Having said that, the street food scene is something to boast about. Still, we reckon that we need more Mozaics and Kemiris please. Score: 07

4.arts and culture
There is no doubt that Bali is the island of artists and artisans. People also come here not merely for the natural wonders, but for the culture. The Balinese are very proud of their culture and rightfully so. Not many places on Planet Earth posses as much charm. So in terms of culture, our beloved island is perfect. But there is an on-going debate about the quality of the art scene. Critics are yearning more variety, which we are confident that Bali can produce. So, for this reason, the score is a little less than perfect: 09

5.social and dating scene
This category basically means: Is it easy to get a date in Bali? No, the ones where you end up paying the next morning don’t count. Apart from Elizabeth Gilbert [author of “Eat, Pray, Love”], how many people have found the love of their life in Bali? Plenty, of course. Look at the rapidly rising number of the local Balinese residents. But for the others, are there potential dates right left and centre? Tourists come here to honeymoon. So unless they are looking for a third partner to swing with, they don’t count. Score: 05

6.living cost
More and more expensive places have started to grow like mushrooms in Bali. We’ve found that sometimes a full-blown night out in Bali costs more than Jakarta. And taxi fares here are indubitably more expensive. But cost of rent, water and electricity are very good. One of our survey respondents claims that they pay as little as Rp. 500,000 for three months worth of electricity. So just like anywhere else in the world, it depends on your lifestyle. But for the average Joe, their pay check can go a long way. Score: 08

7.education
There are at least ten universities in Bali. But in order to be smarter than a fifth grader, most people tend to leave the island. However, for those who want to learn about the Balinese arts and culture, the venues are plentiful. Score: 06

8.health
Singapore is still the destination for anything medical. Bali, unfortunately, doesn’t compare. But for your spiritual health, the island boasts a lot of yoga studios, classes and the kind. And to be fair, you can even go for a chiropractic therapy here. Still, we need a lot more hospitals with international standards. Pharmacies that sell you almost anything without prescriptions are just not enough. Score: 05

9.accommodations
From a semi-wet bed full of bugs, to a room that costs you US$ 1000 a night, Bali has it all. And it’s getting better all the time. The choices are there, and in abundance too. Score: 10

10.environmental awareness
Yuyun Ismawati, one of Time’s Heroes of the Environment 2009 is based in Bali. And more and more eco-friendly properties are being built. There is also a recent trend to use bamboos instead of concrete to build buildings. And the UN Climate Change Conference was also held in Bali. So the island is indeed moving to the right direction in this department. Score: 06

Pura Luhur Uluwatu - Beautiful and Sacred

2009-12-20T00:01:00.000-08:00

One of Bali’s holiest temples is not only majestic but also offers a spectacular and sweeping view of the Indian Ocean and, of course, stunning sunsets.

Arguably the most spectacular Hindu temple on the island of Bali, Pura Luhur Uluwatu is perched majestically about 80 meters above sea level on the edge of a steep cliff at the southern part of Bali.

Pura Luhur Uluwatu, a classic expression of ancient Bali, is regarded as one of the six main temples in Bali.

It is one of the Sad Kahyangan Temple in Bali (six big groups of Bali temples) and is situated in Pecatu Village, the sub-district of South Kuta, Badung Regency, about 25 km south of Denpasar.

Pura means temple while luhur is “something of divine origin”.

Uluwatu is actually two words combined into one; ulu is “land’s end” and watu means “rock” in the island’s old language.

The area is open to public, so it is not uncommon for its parking lot to be inundated by giant buses transporting tourists from all over the world. But they come not only for the temple but also for the stunning panorama and the to-die-for sunsets.

Dedicated to the spirits of the sea, the famous temple is an architectural marvel built with black coral rocks.

Built in the eleventh century during the era of Empu Kuturan, Pura Luhur Uluwatu is one of the oldest temples in Bali.

(Empu is a title denoting the person’s excellence in literature, philosophy and craftsmanship.)

Some five centuries later a priest, Dang Hyang Niraratha, rebuilt it to what you see today.

The temple is so sacred that up to the turn of the 20th century it is said that only the princes of Denpasar were allowed to worship there.

A word of caution: Monkeys, always on the lookout for a free bite, abound here, and warning signs remind visitors about their aggressiveness, which can manifest in their going after your sunglass or camera.

There are two ways to reach the temple; the first is taking the steep path along the cliff, while the second is to enter from the candi bentar (gate), festooned with carvings that have become the landmark of the island.

After going through an open central courtyard, you reach the main gate which has two ganeshas (elephant-headed guardian statues) one on each side.

On the left and right of the main gate are shrines, astasari (for festival offerings), a shrine dedicated to Dang Hyang Nirartha, and several other shrines, called bale tajuk, for spiritual guardians of Nirartha–all of them impressive in their own right.

Another but smaller courtyard is in store before you reach the three-tiered pagoda Meru, which is dedicated to Nirartha who, as legend has it, achieved self-enlightenment here.

Best time to visit the temple is during weekdays and before sunset time. This is when the place is tranquil, allowing you more time to explore what is considered to be one of Bali’s most important temples, and to contemplate.

It is also the time when you can watch dolphins and turtles in the sea.

The downside, of course, is that you will miss the sunset, which is actually just as beautiful elsewhere in Bali.

While you’re there, make time to visit the beach, considered to be one of Bali’s best surfing spots.

A New Destination to Enjoy in Bali

2009-12-19T23:55:00.000-08:00

The karst and limestone region of Pecatu has a new face. Four hundred hectares of this once barren terrain has been converted into the Pecatu Indah Resort, an integrated tourism area that provides pleasant facilities to enjoy this new sensation in Bali. If all goes according to plan, within the next ten years the area will be home to 17 top-name hotels, the largest beach club ever built in Bali, and an 18-hole golf course, which will play host to the Indonesia Open this coming February.

These hot properties are one main selling point of the Pecatu Indah Resort, as well as its stunning ocean views – convincing reasons why the area is being called the “New Kuta Beach”.

In line with the development of this integrated tourism zone, the Pecatu Indah Resort is already open to receive visitors through two of its best properties – Le Grande Bali Resort and Klapa Beach Club.

Le Grande Bali Resort, standing in the heart of the New Kuta Golf Course, offers elegant accommodations including two Presidential Suites, 60 luxurious Executive Suites, and 130 deluxe rooms within its four towers. Le Grande Bali Resort, a member of the Summit Hotels & Resorts group, is also ideal for business gatherings and international-scale MICE events.

As would be expected from a star-class hotel, it has all the standard facilities: 24-hour coffee house, a very relaxed bar, an a body treatment complex including golf, spa and swimming pool.

The General Manager of Le Grande Bali, M. Fadzil Rohani, says “Guests who stay here will enjoy the unique experience of this special resort – green everywhere, an eco-friendly, luxurious sanctuary wrapped in contemporary design.”

To complement the pleasures of hotel guests and other visitors to the Pecatu Indah Resort, the Klapa Beach Club is the perfect choice. This club, facing Dreamland beach, is packed wth activity from dawn till late at night.

Guests can choose from simply relaxing and soaking up the view of the Indian Ocean until sunset at the swimming pool or the natural carved cliff, enjoying Mediterranean or Japanese delicacies, raving at the Ice Bar and the Klapa Klab with select DJs, or crooning in one of the nine exclusive karaoke room.

The Klapa Beach Club, the new icon of the Pecatu area, is the perfect choice for those who want to enjoy a new size of Bali’s maritime beauty.

www.legrandebali.com

The Last Megalithic

2009-12-19T23:44:00.000-08:00

Sumba almost untouched modern civilization. Here we can see many things not recorded in the tourist brochures: the tomb stone weighing 70 tons, wild horses running on the savanna, the head of the wife of a dozen tribes, villages perched on the hill, the houses tall coconut trees , as well as the funeral procession with tumbal 150 water buffaloes. The following recordings Fadil Aziz who had twice visited Sumba

Horses pony sandalwood species roamed the grasslands that are found in eastern SumbaWaktu frozen in Sumba. He was sitting 80 miles south of Flores, Indonesia imprisoned by the Sea. If the achievements of civilization in the form dikerucutkan LV bag and the BlackBerry, the Sumba is an isolated place, almost untouched, a counter-thesis "The world is flat" which concluded the Earth is no longer recognize geographical boundaries. It took six months for news of the proclamation could be heard in Sumba, as a general illustration used to describe how desolate island.

A breeze blew gently. The cold air seemed to penetrate the skin even though it was headed in the afternoon. This typical weather in Waikabubak located 600 meters above sea level. It was 18 years ago since I first set foot in the capital of West Sumba. Still wet in the memory of the scene at that time: a jumble of stone tombs, knight on horseback with a machete tucked into his waist, and draped in traditional costumes weaving.

A white stadiums now standing in front of me. Across from the church tower a few grand. A little to the south, there is a market with a row of shophouses in front of him. Deserted avenues snaking here and there. Occasionally angkot (or angdes?) Passed with the spirit kernetnya offer. Waikabubak now more of a small town than a big village. These achievements are positive, although it achieved after nearly
two decades.

Outside sweets such development, Sumba not changed much. Durable cultural purity maintained. Globalization just touching the surface. Stone tombs still standing in place. They seemed to whisper about the ancestral culture and the long procession that gave it birth. Savannah plains that still lay quiet area, complete with beautiful horses that crossed it. While the tops of towering traditional house, poking among the leaves of trees.

Regions in Indonesia are generally included in the Austronesian cultural group. However, over time, this culture eroded by the presence of Hinduism and Buddhism. What makes the special is a culture of Sumba is still relatively authentic. Some of his form is the belief of animism, ancestor worship of spirits, traditional betel nut, the use of houses on stilts, and custom carrying goods as stock tomb.

Sumba communities living in the clan named kabisu. Each clan leaders to establish a village master then down the other villages in the vicinity. In the past, the main village at war with each other. That's why some villages deliberately built on a hill in order to have a better defensive position. Often these villages surrounded by palisades of rock or a cactus thorn. The center of the village is the partly open space filled with stone graves and ancestral worship stones are sacred.

The main belief in Sumba called Marapu. "Religion" is exclusive to Sumba, not found elsewhere. The ritual was led by priests who styled rato. They hold authority in the affairs of the incantation and prayer, and as a mediator with the spirit world. In teaching Marapu, harmonious relationship with the ancestors was in number one in the list of faith harmony.

There are many rato in Sumba. This is not due to a large population, but more because each specialized in one rato ritual. Rato to different funeral rites for the celebration Wula rato Podu (new year in the calendar Marapu). Even in a large ceremonial circuit, there are a number rato each with a different mantra in every babakannya. Rato did not recognize caste, all equal. There was no discrimination between elite or village rato. At most there were only a senior rato, namely those who are elderly. This profession can not seem to ditekuni just anyone, but rather inherited by lineage. Compiling mantra each rato usually obtained from parents.

One is the use of teaching Marapu stone tomb. This tradition is said to be the cultural heritage of the Megalithic era who lived thousands of years ago. Khazanah similar culture can be found elsewhere in the archipelago. In North Sulawesi, for example, we know waruga, the stone grave of Minahasa community version. While in Toraja community to bury the body in the rock cliffs. Differences in Sumba is, the stone used is not limited to the procession of death, but also for the rituals of pilgrimage and holy days. The use of stone as a pillar of this religion that makes Sumba touted as "the living megalith culture".

The uniqueness of the tradition of Sumba stone tomb is in the size of stone used. Stone is generally used large and heavy. Stone weighing tens of tons withdrawn from the mountains to the location of the cemetery, often go through a steep uphill road. Amazingly, all this done completely rely on the aliases manually manpower. No wonder, the procession could spend months or even years. Sometimes just cutting stone for it takes two years. Thousands of men were deployed to pull the stone, while the women prepare the food logistics. A ceremony was held is not cheap by slaughtering hundreds of buffaloes, pigs and chickens, as well as serving the gods. It is said that in ancient times, slaves and slave can participate sacrificed.

A stone tomb is a square containing four to five bodies. Together they also included items such precious fabrics weaving high value, glassware, and so on. Then crushed with a stone coffin-shaped thick plates. Stone weight is usually chosen so that the grave is not easily dismantled thief. To be more safe again, usually placed in the grave yard or in the village area. If any family member who died, the stone and then opened a new body is inserted.

Coastal landscape of West Sumba

Arena rock withdrawal in Sumba is one of the cultural magnet for researchers. Anthropologists from around the world willing to charter a plane for witnessing this rare event. Now, though already done with a more modern way, the procession pull the stone tomb still attract many people.

Mozaic Bali

2009-12-19T23:33:00.000-08:00

One of Bali's most celebrated restaurants, Mozaic opens its doors to Chris Salan's private chef's table. The best just keeps getting better...

Arguably Bali's finest restaurant just keeps getting better and better, now with the added attraction of a private dining experience, actually in the state of the art Miele kitchen with celebrated chef Chris Salans. Mozaic (Jl Sanggingan, T: 0361 975 768) has always been at the forefront of culinary innovation in Bali thanks to a genuine neglect of the rulebook and a desire to present visitors with cuisine that both challenges and intrigues the palate in equal measures. With such dishes as a salad of cured duck, foie gras terrine, pinot de Bali gelée, baby arugula, red beets and candied mango in a raspberry dressing or the beef tenderloin poached in red wine, crispy seared foie gras, cêpe mushroom and celeriac purée in a burnt bread emulsion you know that you are in for a masterful journey into the imagination of a truly talented and creative force.

Private parties and functions are catered to at the chef's table, cooking classes are held regularly and the original garden dining that made Mozaic such a success is still a 'must do' when visiting Bali, just don't forget to order the surprise degustation menu with wine pairing, then let the kitchen geniuses work their magic

Straight No Chaser

2009-12-19T23:31:00.000-08:00

Ubud’s answer to Ronnie Scott’s serves a concoction of great cuisine and very fine Jazz. Nice...

Here's the sort of place Woody Allen would warm to immediately, a purist approach to serving simple, yet tasty food and great music to dine to. The creative forces behind the Jazz Café (Jl Sukma, T: 0361 976 594) certainly know their music, the framed portraits of legends such as Thelonious Monk, John Coltrane and the like adorn the walls at the bar whilst a large gazebo lounge provides plenty of low slung seating adding a very relaxed feel to an already very chilled ambience.

Choices from the menu include a very simple but delicious twist on the baked Balinese banana leaf formula, substituting meat or fish for feta, chilli and herbs and served with baguettes.

There are plenty more vegetarian options dotted throughout including a tempting grilled Mediterranean pizza, but the grilled herb marinated beef kebabs warrant a special mention with chimichurri sauce (a cream based sauce with coriander, mint leaf, garlic and parsley), basmati rice and salad.

Desserts are limited to four choices but stick to the classics with a home made apple pie, passion fruit crème brulee, grilled banana split or rich French chocolate mousse with vanilla cream and toasted almonds.

What the dining menu lacks in volume of choice the cocktail list certainly makes up for with a wide array of martinis, mojitos and themed tipples such as the Swell Ella and Cool Louis.

Already going strong after eleven years the Jazz Café remains ever popular with their loyal following and strong interest from local music aficionados.

Wednesdays are Latin groove, Thursdays Afrobeat and Fusion, Fridays Funk and Acid Jazz with Kenebe and the Bali Blues Band takes the reigns on Saturday nights. This is one place where you'll want to hit the dance floor after dinner.

Through the Looking Glass

2009-12-19T23:29:00.000-08:00

Walking into Horizon Glassworks on the road up to Sayan, Ubud (Jl Tebongkang, T: 0361 780 4014) is akin to stepping into a parallel universe where the common laws of physics are disbanded and a pioneering sense of creativity hangs as thick in the air as the overwhelming heat emitted from the blast furnaces. The sign next to the maestro of proceedings, Ron Seivertson reads ‘Please refrain from asking questions until the break'. It is obvious why Ron and his workers can't stop to chit chat while they work. Blowing glass takes a tremendous amount of concentration and physical endurance. All this was quite evident when I saw the sweat on Ron's tattooed back and the tension in his arms as he wielded an iron rod with a deep red piece of still unformed glass.

Ron started blowing glass four years ago and discovered that his great grandfather was also a glass blower. He recently found out that fellow Norwegians with his surname ‘Seivertson' were also glass blowers. Alas, it's in Ron's blood. But there have been other major influences on his work as well. He credits two masters: Lino Tagliapietra and Pino Senroreto who are renowned as the best glass blowers in the world. "I was also deeply moved and influenced artistically by Gustav Viegland: the Norwegian great in stone whose work buckled my knees with his ability to capture human emotion three years prior to finding glass. This affected me so much, that I craved the ability to express ‘feeling' in any medium, as I have been overwhelmed with emotion and a need to express my whole life. Glass wise William Morris knocked me out completely with one look at his absolutely amazing ability to recreate nature and indigenous people. I begged the universe to someday come anywhere near this man's ability in hot glass."

There were many reasons Ron chose to set up his studio in Bali. He had been coming here for years and saw that there was a small glass movement here, so he got his foot in the door and worked in one of the studios. "I thought if there was any opportunity in the world for an emerging artist and to do what I want to do, it is going to be in Asia. Also, I've experienced that Bali is a 365 day a year trade show and the result has been pretty correct to my presumption that people from around the world will come and buy my glass, so that's what's been happening." And while it has only been four years since Ron's emergence, it is apparent that he is making quite a name for himself with his glass works throughout Asia. He was recently commissioned by a major client from the Philippines to do numerous installations including a series of huge glass flowers blooming from stainless steel trees for a stunning fountain display at an exclusive private island resort. Ron explained that the spectrum of precision required for making glass is huge depending on what you want to create. "The most important thing about blowing glass or reheating it is being able to sense the temperature. Fortunately, that's one thing that I had a really good feel for right off, whereas for most people it takes a long time to get that. When it comes to making the torsos and the solid sculptures that I do, one wrong move can ruin the whole piece, especially in the beginning. The practice of repeating and honing that skill is paramount to achieving your desire."

The process of making a torso has many sequential steps. First Ron has to gather up a certain amount of glass in sequential dips into the molten material. Then he proceeds to form an hourglass shape with a tool called a ‘jacks' which is used to shape the cylindrical portions of the piece. Next he flattens the back and front, which helps set up the breasts for a female torso. After this, he tapers the legs, pulls the beginning of the breasts and proceeds to cut in the butt and shape the beginning of the length of the legs. Next he must make sure that the waist isn't too thick or thin; he uses the jacks tool once again to define the hips and carves continually into those basic shapes until he has achieved the desired finished product. Finally, he completes the bottom and transfers it to a punting. "People ask me why is art glass so expensive?" Ron states, looking up from his latest piece, "they have no idea of what goes into the achievement of creating something really artistic. The truth is that every bit of my life experience goes into this work. I don't do it for the money. There's a lot of better ways to make money. I love this, and I feel this is what I've been called to do.

Secrets of the Oracle

2009-12-19T23:28:00.000-08:00

From the time Filippos was a child he was a natural sculptor. Sculpting is his way of expressing his feelings about the world and the beauty that he sees in it. His latest piece 'Transfiguration' is a magnificent 2.5 meter high figure made of solid glass. Unfortunately, it wasn't at his new gallery Oracle (Jl Sanggingan, opposite Neka Museum) the day I visited him, because it was on a boat heading for Italy, where Filippos will be competing in 'The Biennale Florence'. 770 artists from 76 nations will be participating in this prestigious event. Filippos will represent his home country Greece.

The sculpture is an abstract form of the human body, which represents the opening of the seven chakras. At its back is a teak wood ladder with seven steps which symbolize the 'Ladder of Jacob'. At the top of the figure is the crown chakra, which is made of a green obsidian disk that Filippos found in Sumatra. Inside the Obsidian stone are one thousand lotus petals carved into silver inlaid with Zirconium stones. Filippos has lived a relatively reclusive life in Sayan, and only recently decided that it was time to bring his art to the public, so he opened his gallery, Oracle in Ubud. It is not just a gallery that sells sculptures: it is a place of prophecy – a place where people can meet, explained Filippos. He wanted to create a space that was truly unique and would offer other people a new vision.

On the second floor is the seat of the Oracle – an impressive concrete structure built in a Grecian style with a striking carving of a doorway into the fifth dimension that was inspired by the indians of Mexico. The centerpiece is a magic wheel: a shaman disk from Siberia that consists of various stones and crystals in a circular design. "I wanted to find a place to create an oracle.

My sculptures aren't just sculptures; every piece is part of this oracle. If somebody is buying a piece they aren't just buying a sculpture, they are also buying a piece of the oracle." Filippos feels that he has a lot to give, but you have to find a way for people to listen to the oracle. "The real answers are coming from inside you, so the oracle's purpose is to get the person to reflect back and listen to oneself. When you are vulnerable and open up, you can see clearly what is going on." Some would say that Filippos is on the edge of genius with his art.

As I studied several of his sculptures in Oracle, I felt moved by the mastery and beauty of his work. Clearly evident are influences of Rodin and Michealangelo. His masterpiece, 'The Journey of the Soul,' has been featured in many publications. It is carved out of a massive log from Tiger wood into the shape of a spiral cone. Inside the cone are a man and a woman who look as though they are rising up from the vortex. On the outside of the cone are many symbols that tell the journey of the soul. "I used all my knowledge of ancient civilization to tell the story of the soul's evolution. There are seven steps of this evolution."

The sculpture has many symbols from Egypt, Greece, Tibet and Toth carved around the outside of the cone. The five major religions are also represented: Hinduism, Judaism, Buddhism, Christianity and Islam. Filippos envisions these religions uniting as one. Most of his pieces take a year or more to create. It is no surprise that he sells his sculptures for thousands of dollars.

But he says it's not just about the money; he wants the right people to buy his sculptures – people who really love and understand what his work represents. For Filippos, a true artist is always striving to achieve greatness in his or her work.

When I asked him whether he felt he had gained this stature he replied, "Yes, I feel that I am a great artist." It has taken him half a lifetime to become the artist he has always dreamed of being, but Filippos sees his life as a continuing process of opening up. The best is yet to come.

Surfing Nusa Dua Bali‘s Sunset Beach

2009-12-19T23:27:00.000-08:00

The tourism enclave of Nusa Dua on the south-east corner of Bali simply oozes with five star luxury, and conjures up visions of umbrella-adorned tropical drinks being carried to you by elegant men or exotic women in ceremonial Balinese costumes, while you brown yourself poolside under the blazing sun with no more a care for anything but pure hedonism in the form of food, drink, and then a long, sensuous massage.

However for others, surfers in particular, hedonistic fulfilment takes a different form, and this five star Eden is home to Bali's most eminent big wave surf spot, simply known as "Nusa Dua". The name doesn't make a lot of sense logically, as the words "Nusa Dua " essentially mean "Two Islands", which aren't really islands but two rocky outcroppings that serve as the base for two Balinese temples….the closest maybe a kilometre or more to the north of where the actual Nusa Dua surfing break is located.

Regardless of semantics, Nusa Dua is, in the minds of most of the old time surf crew anyways, the Balinese version of Hawaii's famed Sunset Beach. According to long-time Bali resident Steve Palmer, who remembers surfing Nusa Dua for the first time with Kim "the Fly" Bradley back in 1974, Nusa Dua was like Sunset, Hawaii. "I surfed Sunset Beach at about 5 foot one time, and that was about the heaviest wave I have ever experienced. So when I had Dick Brewer (legendary Hawaiian board maker) shape me a board especially for Nusa Dua, I told him to make it like a Sunset board but pull it back about twenty percent. It worked perfectly," said Steve.

The picture of serenity with long blue peeling lines topped in bright white foam, Nusa Dua at three to four foot looks like mellow perfection to the average surfer, but a word of warning; never count out that sleeper set that will come from out of nowhere to pound you and wash you all the way down to the golf course! And turning it up a notch, the exhilarating elevator drop and race with that intimidating mountain of water that's intent upon catching up to you and giving you the beating of your life on a solid six to eight foot day is what Steve calls an "elemental experience". An experience that will have your head buzzing at 100 plus decibels and drowning out everything but your very basic survival instincts - but therein lies the attraction.

One of Bali's first surfers, Gede Narmada, made the trek from Kuta to Nusa Dua with Mike Boyum in 1973 to have his first "elemental experience." The path to the beach led through some cornfields, which is now the Nusa Dua Golf and Country Club, and there were no boats to take you out to the lineup in those days. Just your arms and a long paddle! The boats started taking surfers out to the lineup in the early 80's, and nobody paddled out from the south by the Nusa Dua Beach Grille and the temple until several years after that. The early Nusa Dua crew consisted of Narmada, Boyum, Bobby Radiasa of G-Land fame and several others, but nobody had the place wired like Kim Bradley according to Narmada. "Kim studied the place and knew where to line up in all the various conditions. He showed me the big tree and where to be in relation to it. That tree is still there and I still use it today as my reference," he said.

Knowing the line up doesn't mean you won't have a hairy experience or two. Narmada said his worst experience was when he lost his board on a sizeable day back in ‘83-‘84. It was big, high tide, and very strong current. "I was swimming and swimming and thought I would end up in Lombok! Then I met another guy who had lost his board and we started swimming together, heading out of the channel to the north. Finally, after about an hour we crawled up onto the beach. I'm telling you, if it's big you better bring a friend along…don't surf there alone!"

All things considered it's the danger factor that is the big draw after all, isn't it? If you want to cover your bases and balance adrenaline with preservation of life, don't go much shorter than a 6'6", and preferably a 6'10" to 7'2" with a bit of thickness to get in early and avoid those nasty elevator drops. Perfect conditions? In Narmada's opinion, Nusa Dua needs a solid 6-10 foot west swell and a medium tide (1.6-2.0) coming up to produce those big picture-perfect thigh-muscle-burning walls that peel down the reef for 200 metres or so. And if you don't want to fight the speedway current that allows you tantalizingly close but never lets you get to the peak, check the moon and make sure its neither full moon nor new moon but somewhere close to the middle.

Oh, one last thing…you should probably save your strength for paddling and pay the IDR 30,000 for the one-way boat trip out to the lineup. You'll need every bit of help you can get… But it'll be worth every stroke.

Treasure Hunting in Ubud

2009-12-19T23:19:00.000-08:00

Ubud has been a shopping stop for decades. It has always been the place for handicrafts - wood carvings, Lombok pottery, puppets, masks, ceramics and other traditional items could be found in the many little shops lining the town's few streets or at the main market.

But things are changing in Ubud. All these goodies are still available, but now a growing number of upscale boutiques offer exciting alternatives. The town has become a treasure chest of collectibles. Many are produced locally in limited quantities for export while others may only be found in small galleries when stock is available. Others are samples and one-offs that will never be found again. But one thing is certain -- shoppers who go treasure hunting in Ubud will not be disappointed. Reliable packing and shipping services mean that there is no excuse not to send those treasures home.

Dek's Studio is owned by Kadek Gunarta, an Ubud craftsman who travels regularly to Java to purchase old teak from traditional houses that are being knocked down for modern buildings. He brings ancient teak doors, walls, plough handles, fences, ship's planking and loose boards to his Ubud workshop to fashion into stunning furniture. The finely joined and finished pieces incorporate the 'warts and all' character of lived-in old wood. Kadek's commitment to recycling also reflects his reverence for traditional motifs and workmanship. Contact Kadek at 0812 3830 953.

Hananto Wibowo, features exquisite old Javanese pieces hand-picked from private collections at Hananto Lloyd Gallery. Located near Four Seasons Hotel in Sayan, it showcases interesting collectibles from Indonesia and elsewhere in the region.

Indonesia's intricate textiles are always popular and Studio 22k has one of Bali's leading textile collections. Although the gallery includes a variety of textiles from around the archipelago, it is probably best known for its very high quality batik, including museum- quality specimens and vegetable-dyed batiks from the 1930s. Ricka, the owner, is always happy to spend time educating visitors about textiles and local culture in general. Studio 22k is located on Jalan Raya Ubud next to the entrance of Oka Kartini Hotel.

The Buddhas and Silk Gallery in the Panorama Hotel complex on Jalan Pengosekan brings together an extensive collection of Buddha and Hindu images and hand-loomed silks. Images are rendered in stone, wood, glass, bronze and semi-precious stone ranging from one centimetre to 1.5 metres and are bought directly from the carvers whenever possible. Hand- woven silk is an ancient and refined art in most Buddhist countries where processes of spinning, dying and weaving the silk are meditatively slow, creating a gentle energy that remains in the cloth.

Whenever possible, the hand-loomed silks are bought directly from the weavers or from cooperatives and organizations committed to supporting the artists, to sustainability and to natural dyes. The gallery has silks from co-operatives in Cambodia, Thailand and some are dyed and hand-woven by AZURI in Ubud. It also sells the spectacular wearable art of designer Rana Helmi whose one-of-a-kind reversible jackets and coats are created from patches of silk and batik, for wear during day or evening.

High in the hills above Ubud is the kiln of Sariapi, the Essence of Fire. Here Swiss-born Suzan Kohlik creates unique porcelain tableware, vases and art pieces. Inspired by the Japanese tradition of creating a perfect piece of pottery and then rendering it imperfect, Suzan's collection is a delightful medley of colours and forms. The functional items use food-safe glazes, and she experiments with unusual glazes on the decorative pieces. Sariapi Gallery adjoins the Juice Ja on Jalan Dewi Sita.

The Pure Land Gallery on Jl Dewi Sita has a collection of hand- painted Tibetan thangkas from Nepal which can be purchased unmounted or framed in traditional silk brocade. The knowledgeable staff is happy to explain each piece, or to allow shoppers to sit quietly on the floor cushions and soak in the serene ambience. Cute and quirky men's and women's shoes and bags can be found at Sasorizacraft Shoe Shop - just up from Batan Waru. It's not uncommon to hear squeals of delight emerging from the little shop as visitors of all genders discover the treasures within. The brothers who own the business are friendly and flexible, and can make you new shoes to measure in just a few days. Renee Ariel, of Goddess Silks, has exquisite hand-painted silk kimonos, jackets and scarves featuring deities and metaphysical motifs which can take over 60 hours to complete. She also offers classes in silk painting at her Ubud studio. Pieces are available by private order or call the studio at telephone 08123 978 098 for an appointment.

There are many other treasures waiting to be discovered in Ubud's many boutiques, so sharpen up your credit card and go shopping!

Nusa Dua’s Puja Mandala

2009-12-19T23:17:00.000-08:00

A cluster of houses of worship representing all of Indonesia's religions can be seen on a scenic hilltop close to Nusa Dua. This two-hectare slice, known as Puja Mandala (the domain of worship), is home to a Buddhist temple, a Hindu temple, a Catholic Church, a Protestant Church and an Islamic mosque. This complex bears witness to Indonesia's unique constitution, known as Pancasila, that gives equal status to each of the country's religions. Created in the early years of Indonesia's independence, the state code is depicted by five symbols on the national coat of arms, the central one being the star, the symbol of religious belief, though the religion is not specified.

Dubbed as the 'Hill of Prayer', Puja Mandala is also probably unique in global terms since, although one finds major cities with an array of houses of worship belonging to various faiths, it is very rare to find so many different ones check by jowl. What makes it all the more surprising - and indeed is part of its charm – is its non- urban setting overlooking the sparkling sands of Sanur beach and the bustling harbour of Benoa.It is definitely worth a visit.

The idea to build the complex came about in the early 1990s, after the construction of several international-chain hotels in the enclave resort of Nusa Dua. The actual development of the 'Hill of Prayer', however, did not start until 1995, and coincided with the boom in Bali's tourism industry. During this upsurge, the need for places of worship for both visitors and migrant workers to the area was increasingly felt. Long renowned as a Hindu island in a sea of Muslims, Bali was rapidly becoming religiously cosmopolitan. The Bali Tourism Development Corporation (BTDC), the owner of the Nusa Dua Resort complex, donated the land and the various religious communities shared the development costs. It took around two years to build and was opened to the public with great ceremony in 1997.

In addition to being an expression of Indonesia's religious tolerance, there are at least two practical reasons for the development of the complex. The first is related directly to tourists of different denominations requiring a place to pray, a pressing concern given the fact that Nusa Dua often hosts major international conferences that draw in visitors from just about everywhere. To match the profile of its hotels, Nusa Dua needed something of quality to satisfy the religious needs of an increasingly diverse visitor profile. The development of Puja Mandala was considered to be an ideal solution and in providing such diverse spiritual facilities Nusa Dua's profile was raised as a resort that catered for everybody, whatever their country of origin or religious persuasion.

The other reason is related to the Nusa Dua community itself. The growth of Nusa Dua as tourism resort drew in large numbers of people who moved to live in the surrounding area, most of them working in tourism-related industry. Housing complexes have also mushroomed in the areas of Nusa Dua, the Bukit and Jimbaran to the south and west, and the religious needs of these migrants needed addressing. These people not only reflected Indonesia's religious diversity, but they also included expatriates who followed a variety of different faiths. Puja Mandala was built to satisfy both the needs of the resort's diverse visitors and its equally varied migrant worker community.

In addition to these practical reasons, the development of Puja Mandala was designed to showcase Bali's tolerance and multicultural character. The Balinese have long been known as a peace loving people characterized by harmonious relations among the different ethnic and religious groups living on the island. People of different faiths live side by side, taking care of one another. Visitors may come across a Buddhist ritual procession or festivity guarded by a combined force of Buddhist youths and the local Hindu security team known as pecalang. By encouraging the members of different faiths to worship in buildings in a united complex, Puja Mandala promotes the Balinese spirit of mutual understanding.

It is through being tolerant that the Balinese have been able to maintain peace and harmony, a prerequisite for a successful tourism industry that welcomes all comers. A lot has been written about how tourism has encouraged the Balinese to be proud of their culture, especially their visual arts, performing arts and handicrafts. It should also be added, however, that tourism also enhances the Balinese people's awareness of the importance of maintaining peace and harmony. With so many other destinations to choose from these days, the modern tourist is more likely to opt for places in which they feel secure and welcome. Thus, the ongoing promotion of tolerance not only creates harmony among the different community members but also helps sustain tourism, one of the major wellsprings of the island's prosperity.

The encouragement of tolerance is also supported through a forum that brings together the different religious groups to promote inter-faith awareness. This organization was established in both district and provincial level and religious leaders from all the major Indonesian faiths sit as members of the forum. They run regular meeting to discuss cultural and religious to encourage and facilitate inter-faith worship from time to time, and to act as guardians of Bali's inter-cultural harmony. The combination of Puja Mandala and this inter-faith forum represent a working system of how tolerance among the different communities of Bali and enacted in daily life.

It is often said that Bali is a unique island easily distinguishable from the others in the archipelago. Much attention has been devoted to the specific religious and Hindu-based cultural identity attached to the island's main community. In reality, Bali is a multi-ethnic society and has long been so. To appreciate this point one only has to descend from Puja Mandala to the nearby charming settlement of Tanjung Benoa where long established mosques built by Makasar seafarers and Buddhist shrines erected by Chinese migrants sit alongside the familiar Balinese temples.

Dava’s Delight

2009-12-05T23:46:00.000-08:00

new to bali, and dava’s latest chef extraordinaire, william gumport explores the island’s vast supply of fresh ingredients, and does it frantic moped-style

Zipping across the island in a hunt for fresh tomatoes was not something William Gumport envisioned lying ahead when he jetted into Bali last July to head Ayana Resort’s upmarket Dava restaurant, but he has found himself making a mad moped-dash for these ingredients, along with a sprinkling of other items, as he settles into life as chef de cuisine on the sometimes unpredictable island.

While Bali offers plenty of things that William was expecting, tussling with suppliers was not one of them. “That’s one thing I had no idea about. I got over it pretty fast - I’m okay with that challenge,” says unflappable William.

We’re chatting at an intimate Dava table jutting into a pond punctuated with lotus flowers shuttered against the dusk. A breeze from Jimbaran Bay below stirs the leaves of surrounding trees.

The chef, who has served time in eateries in Las Vegas and New York, jumped at the opportunity to work in Indonesia, despite never travelling here before. William’s Asia experience extended to living in China for a few months with his family when he was younger and a trip to Japan.

“I had never thought of Indonesia until the opportunity came about and I’m very happy I made the leap,” he says, adding that he had been passively looking for work in Asia for two or three years.

“My concern honestly was with the people and attitudes and what I would be running into, basically because I didn’t know any Indonesians. I came with an open mind and these people have totally won me over.”

On arrival, William decided to eschew the usual Bali expat ghettos and set himself up in an apartment at nearby Kedonganan beach.

“I definitely wanted to be able to immerse myself a little bit more into what’s going on around here and down there is mostly Hindu. It’s very representative of the Bali population so I’m happy with it.”

In the name of research, William has stuck his nose into Denpasar’s main market as well as a slew of local ones; he’s popped into the fish market at Kedonganan and even swept through the aisles of Carrefour, which provides a good range of fresh produce from around the archipelago.

Essentially, William seeks to use the “incredible”

local fruit, vegetables and seafood along with imported products such as beef, lamb, vinegars and olive oils to create a menu that is international in flavour, but not technically classified as culinary fusion.

“If I do something Asian, I kind of stick to those flavour profiles. If I do something European, I kind of stick to that profile,” he explains. “I do believe in classics, in classic combinations. I respect tradition.”

William’s next challenge is to source more interesting produce from Bali’s smaller farms. He has a series of meetings lined up in Bedugul in the days ahead to get to know some of the key suppliers there.

“They have all these resources. You just have to go out and kind of adjust a little bit but it’s all there for the taking,” says William. “I really am trying to use as many Indonesian things as possible but I’m trying to put them into a context that Westerners and Japanese would be familiar with. Using those ingredients just makes sense.”

The local market is already providing rich threads for the fine tapestry the chef weaves into his six-course degustation menu, which William aims to change weekly.

The menu follows a standard routine: amuse bouche, followed by an appetiser, a seafood, a red meat, then two desserts.

“I kind of think in a traditional Western way about how to fill those in. It could be the ingredients, something that I’ve seen, it could be a technique or a dish that I’ve done before that inspires me - it could be a number of things.”

The amuse bouche on tonight’s degustation menu - the most European one William has done so far - is a case in point for both local sourcing and using a technique William has been experimenting with: local beetroot gazpacho with Dijon mustard ice cream and a drizzle of hazelnut oil.

“Basically I wanted to do a cold soup / ice cream sorbet combination because I’ve been doing that with a couple of things, and this is a combination that I know and I like. We found some beets that were grown here and Dijon mustard is a flavour that is not indigenous here, but it’s similar to Japanese wasabi, if you can understand that, so it’s something that [Japanese guests] can relate to,” he says.

The appetiser of calamari is also local, and amazingly tender, served julienned after being marinated in preserved lemon, parsley and herb oil, alongside potatoes crushed with a touch of mayonnaise and garlic and romanesco sauce.

The warmed-till-rare yellow fin tuna is another local item, and not to mention delectable - “Tuna is like a luxury item in the United States so I was excited to see that” - and the beef following allows William to use two local ingredients he’s currently infatuated with: ginger flower and tamarind. It’s slow-cooked wagyu cheek, glazed in tamarind with wilted spinach, mango chutney, white radish and the flower, which William had read about but never used before coming to Bali.

Traditionally the Balinese use it in a sambal, chopped and mixed with chillies and shallots, served alongside meat and fish.

“I use it more in like a Western way, where you cut it really fine and you sprinkle it on things, or use it to infuse broths,“ William says.

The plentiful tamarind on the island has also captured William’s imagination.
“You can get it in the United States but here you walk outside and it’s on the tree, and it’s like, wow! I need to think of some things that I can do with this!”
Dessert begins with a beautifully caramelised pineapple tart tatin served with banana ice cream subtly flavoured with rum. And Dessert Number Two -William concedes that a “pre-dessert” is really just another dessert - is a parfait of chocolate mousse, coffee gelee, chocolate streusel and rum cream.

How does William keep his work exciting day in and out? “For one, it’s exciting driving my moped every day -- near death experiences keep you alive. But it’s searching out these places. Meeting these people. Meeting other food professionals. It’s learning a new language. You’re only bored if you’re lazy.”

It looks like Dava is going to be kept exciting for a long time to come.

New Year Events

2009-12-05T23:44:00.000-08:00

big band and buffet
InterContinental Bali Resort invites their guests to the Puri Kencana Ballroom to celebrate NYE where everyone will be treated with cocktails, a gourmet buffet and a big band until the wee hours.

InterContinental Bali Resort (Jl. Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran, T: 0361 701 888)

the ubud party
When it comes to a hip NYE party on this part of the island, Uma Ubud is where it’s at Uma’s Masquerade on Dec 31 starts with a six-course NYE gala dinner at Kemiri (US$ 95++ per person) and continues with a full blown pool-side party starting from 9pm, which will feature a live DJ and a performance by Japan’s leading saxophonist Chika Asamoto.

Uma Ubud (Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud,
T: 361 972 448)

tales of indonesia
This gala dinner takes place at Nusantara Ballroom with tons of entertainment, including a fine collection of ethnic dance performances from across the archipelago and a fine jazz session by Cynthia Utterbach. Starts at 7pm and valued at US$ 250++ per adult and US$ 125++ per child.

The Westin Resort, Nusa Dua
(T: 036 771 906)

blue moon party
The party starts with a cocktail reception from 7pm at Di Mare Restaurant and a five-course set menu dinner from 8pm until 1am for US$ 245++ per person (food only). You also get to enjoy fine tunes from a baby grand pianist, a fire show and many great DJs. The after party takes place at Nammos Beach Club from 12midnight until dawn and at exactly 6am, breakfast will be served.

Karma Kandara (Jl. Villa Kandara Ungasan, T: 0361 848 2200)

dinner party
Filling up your stomach before abusing your liver is always wise. And when you can do it elegantly, it’s even better. Before celebrating NYE at the St. Regis Bali Resort’s beach with DJ Wilson, make sure you enjoy the eight-course degustation menu at Kayuputi Restaurant (Rp. 3,950,000 nett per person).

The St. Regis Bali Resort, Nusa Dua
(T: 0361 847 8111)

new year with hu’u
Like any decent party, this one starts with a six-course tasting menu dinner at Nutmegs Restaurant (Rp. 1.5 million nett per person) serenaded by acoustic jazz tunes before it goes crazy as DJ Matt Caselli of Pacha Ibiza takes over at the dance floor (ticket is Rp. 450,000).

Nutmegs Restaurant (Hu’u Bar, Jl. Oberoi, Petitenget, Kerobokan, T: 0361 736 443)

everyone deserves music
Multi-talented musician, humanitarian, poet, social activist and all-around hippie Michael Franti will have you feelin’ free at Sentosa Villas on NYE, giving a taste of his soulful and funky tunes with his crew, Spearhead.
Having gone barefoot for nine years now, this lyrical genius and guitarist who has never failed to inspire and deliver a big message of peace and unity will take time to entertain his fans in Bali before joining John Mayer on his tour in 2010.

Sentosa Villas (Jl. Pura Telaga Waja, Petitenget, T: 0361 730 333)

back to basics at hotel tugu
For this year-end’s celebrations, Hotel Tugu Bali chose the traditional path, as their rundown for the evening will consist of a Balinese blessing ceremony followed by a beautiful Rejang temple dance performance. The night will continue with a showcase of the rare Cupak dance performance based on an old Balinese folktale from the Buleleng regency that is said to have originated from the Kediri Kingdom of East Java. As midnight nears, put on your dancing shoes, or rather, take them off and join in the Tugu New Year Beach Party, headlined by internationally-renowned DJ Wayne, who will play a set of tropical jazz and blues.

Hotel Tugu Bali (Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu, T: 0361 731 701)

Christmas Events

2009-12-05T23:43:00.000-08:00

not so raw christmas
Glow restaurant at COMO Shambhala Estate at Begawan Giri only serves raw food for the whole year, but on Christmas Day. The special brunch is valued at US$ 75++ per person and is perfect for a follow up after a five-course Christmas Eve dinner at Uma’s Kemiri (US$ 65++ per person) as both are cooked by the excellent chef Chris Miller.

COMO Shambhala Estate (Begawan Giri, Ubud, T: 0361 978 888)
Uma Ubud (Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud, T: 361 972 448)

a continental celebration
This year’s Christmas celebration at this resort starts on the Eve with a complimentary eggnog cocktail reception at Saraswati Lounge and continues with a special seafood delicacies set menu at Sunset Bar and Jimbaran gardens. And the next morning, Santa will come to spread his special message of peace and goodwill. What about our gifts, Santa?

InterContinental Bali Resort
(Jl. Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran, T: 0361 701 888)

indonesian christmas
Instead of feasting on turkey, which you have been doing every year anyway, why not try something different and go Indonesian? Chef Ida Bagus Oka of Mayang Sari restaurant at The Laguna Nusa Dua has prepared a five-course tasting menu for the occasion plus wine pairing (Rp. 750,000++ per person).
Should you want to choose your own dish from the archipelago, the a la carte menu is also available.

The Laguna Resort & Spa (Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 234)

by the water with santa
The Westin Resort Nusa Dua is giving you a chance to create your own menu from the lavish selection of dishes on offer at the buffet table (US$ 75++ per adult and US$ 35++ per child). There is also going to be a modern band and a live performance of Indonesia’s very own kulintang music to serenade your evening. Bring your kids as Santa has given us his word that he’s coming bearing gifts.

The Westin Resort, Nusa Dua (T: 036 771 906)

good karma
Christmas Eve dinner at Karma happens everywhere. There is a three-course dinner at Di Mare Restaurant (US$ 79++ per adult) in Karma Kandara Resort, and another three-course feast at Karma Jimbaran Resort (US$ 65.5++ per adult) and your very own in-villa feast at both properties for US$ 75 per adult.

Karma Kandara Resort (Karma Kandara,
Jl. Villa Kandara Ungasan, T: 0361 848 2200)
Karma Jimbaran Resort (Jl. Bukit Permai Jimbaran, T: 0361 708 800)

posh buffet
The St. Regis Bali Resort offers three different posh buffets at two of their main food outlets. Boneka Restaurant and Kayuputi Restaurant both have an Christmas dinner buffet on Dec 24 and 25 evening at Rp. 1,300,000 nett per person. Nearby at Gourmand Deli, Christmas-related goodies will be on sale from Dec 15.

The St. Regis Bali Resort
(Nusa Dua, T: 0361 847 8111)

festive lunch
Geared at the families who like to get together and be merry on Christmas day. At Rp. 388,000++ per person, you get a four-course set menu and a complimentary glass of eggnog. Deck the halls!

Nutmegs Restaurant (Hu’u Bar, Jl. Oberoi, Petitenget, Kerobokan, T: 0361 736 443)

Raw Beauty

2009-12-05T23:37:00.001-08:00

from breathtaking landscapes to untouched villages full of hospitable people, flores is indubitably a genuine gem. moreover, organising a trip to this eastern part of the archipelago has become much easier in the last couple of years. it’s time to make the best use of this island before it becomes too popular for magic

Drops of sunshine are scattered like silvery stardust over the ocean, while a chain of high rising mountains sketches the horizon. The sight is so striking that it could have come straight out of a storybook. It is hard to grasp why more travellers don’t choose to visit the Nusa Tenggara Islands.
My tumultuous romance with Indonesia began in 2002 – three days after the horrendously destructive first Bali Bomb – when I worked as a volunteer at one of the six orphanages near Maumere in East Flores. Arriving at the diverse isle – it had been over three years since my last visit – I realised that it still has an enchanting power over me, rousing the feeling of coming home after a long period of absence.

The large number of languages and dialects spoken across the island, its intricate history, mountainous savannah, and grassland scenery are just a few of the magical characteristics of Flores. Combined with an inherent uniqueness and magnetism, the island is still a somewhat overlooked Indonesian treasure. Its location within the legendary Ring of Fire – down the long string of Lesser Sunda Islands – ignites earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. Although the possibility of such disastrous infrequencies might sound alarming to some voyagers, the peril is the very reason behind Flores’ impressive topography. A total of 129 volcanoes – 13 per cent of the world’s volcanic mountains – are spread over more than 2500 Indonesian islands, giving rise to natural wonders such as century-old fossils, crater lakes and remarkable geological formations.

The plants and animals in Indonesia’s western regions resemble those of mainland Asia, whereas the archipelago’s eastern fauna and flora is similar to that of Oceania. Endemic species such as the one-horned rhinoceros, Flores’ giant rat, the komodo dragon, unusual coral groups, marine mammals, and the now extinct dwarf elephants, help spark off Indonesia’s pride and mostly exist – or existed – in the archipelago’s central islands.

Perhaps the most bizarre discovery of a species was the 2004 unearthing of hobbit fossils. Javanese and Australian archaeologists from the National Archaeological Research Centre and University of New England dug up the remains of a tiny male and female human being said to have lived 13.000 and 18.000 years ago. Not surprisingly, the finding of these relics – named the Homo Floresiensis – changed the face of science and has tinkered with deep-rooted theories of modern man’s descendants. Many museums on the island explicate dwarfism and display skeletons and modern constructions of the peculiar phenomenon.

Organising a trip to Flores has become much easier in the last couple of years. Flights from Bali to the island’s two airports – one in western Labuan Bajo and the other in Maumere in the east – are scheduled daily and treat travellers to dramatic air views of the nearby rising and falling islands. If time is not an issue, and if your budget doesn’t allow the rather pricy airfare, cheap boat trips are available from major cities such as Surabaya in Java and Kupang in East Timor.

Whether you intend to pass through Flores as part of a backpacking spree from another Indonesian island or neighbouring Asian country, or you’ve chosen Flores for a relaxing or action-filled vacation, there are plenty of travel options. Merpati and Pelita Air are recommended airlines when journeying from Bali.

One of the Merpati aircrafts flew me to Maumere, Flores’ largest town and one of the two entrance ports to the island; Labuan Bajo being the second. A wave of melancholic emotions stirred up my insides during the flight towards the island that so intensely changed my life. I was remembering my first visit from faraway Belgium, when I was a fresh out of school twenty-year-old and, frankly, knew nothing of the world; let alone of its easternmost part. Courageous and adventurous as I was at that age, I jumped at the chance of travelling to appealing Indonesia and lend a good-doer hand where needed for six months.
I had specialised in working with children and adults with mental and physical disabilities. Acquaintances of some chums of mine had travelled around the Maumere area in Flores and visited a handful of orphanages. They thought it would be a good learning experience for me to go and soak myself in a waterless pool of poverty and sickness. I agreed. We were all right.

At the small airport in Maumere I was met by Mama Belgi – the Mother Theresa of East Flores – who has remained a close friend of mine since 2002. The now 74-year-old humanitarian was as vigorous as I recalled her to be and hugged me with the strength of a young man. She grabbed a hold of my hand and pulled me towards the car waiting for us in the car park. Marie Jeanne Colson certainly lays claim to many qualities, but no one could ever accuse her of being sluggish or low-spirited.

As if I had never left, the inspiring woman started filling me in on the current situation at the six orphanages – and one dormitory for girls – which she has set up over thirty years ago. Apart from some dangerous floods and the poor health of some of the carers, not much has changed. Families are still struggling painstakingly with illnesses – due to the high living cost on the island and the many disabilities that require expensive treatments – while striving to provide for their children and relatives. Some households are less successful than others and are forced to knock on the door of one of Mama Belgi’s orphanages, desperate to feed their children and to get familiarised with proper therapies for their hindered lives.

One of Mama Belgi’s revered characteristics is her determination to fight the atrocious poverty polluting the beautiful island of Flores. Over the years she has brought an entire organisation into being. It is now possible for people to support unfortunate families by providing educational funds, by financially adopting a child, or by making donations (See website and contact details below).
Apart from being tormented by heart-wrenching destitution and often incurable sicknesses, the Florinese are some of the happiest and most joyful people I have ever come across. The cheerful reggae-like local music – so typical to island life – is heard along the streets, in public buses and from the folks’ basic houses. The instinctive emotional power and energy they call upon to deal with life and what it throws at them is nothing less than admirable. Their dark chocolate faces are lit up, as if it were a divine gift, by pearly white smiles and deep brown eyes coated with the light of purity. I don’t want to come across as bias, so I highly recommend you embark on a Flores expedition of your own. You might very well be the next in line to fall madly in love with the island and its easy-going residents.

Accommodation is not as plentiful as it is in, for example, Bali and Lombok, but there are some decent hotels in the area. I felt very comfortable staying at a lovely beachfront residence called Gading Beach Hotel – some 20 minutes from the airport – in the colourful town of Nangahure. The property is owned by a Florinese family man, Pak Robi, with whom I enjoyed vivid conversations about upgrading the pretty bungalows and further developing his hotel. By the end of this year, the 15 air-conditioned bungalows are to be united by seven two-storey villas with private kitchen and all other amenities that we, luxury-craving westerners, pine for. Prices are very reasonable ranging from Rp. 90,000 for a room with fan, Rp. 150,000 with AC and Rp. 250,000 for the yet-to-be-completed villas.

The service at Gading Beach Hotel is rather slow and it might be a good idea to order your food about an hour before you want to eat, but who would really mind the wait when surrounded by such magnificent sea view and mountainous greenery? I lay in a hammock overlooking the shimmering Indian Ocean and wondered about how many swimming creatures there are yet to be discovered. I sipped my fresh guava juice and grinned. Island life… Who can withstand the sense of freedom it brings about?

The management team at Gading Beach Hotel has come to master the skill of helping guests discover the island. Affordable tours – by car, on foot or by boat – are scheduled upon request and motorbikes are for rent. Whether you wish to go on an exploratory trip by yourself or in the company of the hotel’s knowledgeable driver, words of advice and must-see locations are suggested free of charge. Maumere is gushing with historic entities, is famed for its ikat (a type of hand-woven textile) clothing and sarongs, excellent diving and snorkelling, and Portuguese heritage. The city is also a great starting point for treks to other remarkable towns and villages.

For me, this trip to Maumere was one of rediscovery and reconnection with the people that have taught me life lessons many of us are yet to learn. For newcomers to the island, there is an extraordinary world to explore; from breathtaking landscapes and multicoloured lakes to traditional villages inhabited by the bravest and most hospitable of people. It truly is a wonder.

Yhi Spa, Nusa Dua

2009-12-05T23:23:00.000-08:00

touch of genius

magical fingers, magical potion and skin cells eating fish. welcome to yhi spa

the look
I have always wondered why certain hotels always put their spa a little far from their lobby. And they always turn out to be the hotel spas that impress me. Not until walking from Meliá Bali’s lobby to their Yhi Spa did I come to a realisation why it is so (for once I wasn’t in a hurry).

It’s like walking through a beautiful and vibrant park on a good summer day. You see a lot of things: children playing, fish chasing each other, leaves dancing and falling on green grass, adults snogging, a lovely picnic turning slowly into a disaster, etc. But after exiting the gate, all you can remember is one particular smell and one particular feeling, both of which make you happy and relaxed.

I remember a beautiful garden, but most vividly, I remember inhaling a particular smell. The smell of a happy holiday. The smell that immediately brings you back to one particular holiday where you had the best time of your life. It was really a touch of genius. I was already experiencing the spa even before I walked
into the lobby. I was ready to let go of everything and escape to an idyllic beach far away from everything.

And when you’re back to Planet Earth, you suddenly find yourself in a dimly lit lobby smelling like indulgence. The spa complex itself has touches of a Chinese house. The spa lounge is built above an oriental looking fishpond. In one corner is the fish therapy area where you get to dip your feet to an aquarium of a thousand garupa fish, which are more than keen to feed on the dead cells on your legs. On the other side is the steam room, which I have to admit, doesn’t look or feel claustrophobic.

the touch
Every single spa on the island offers a Balinese massage and it takes a magical set of fingers to stand out from the other thousand. Meliá Bali’s Yhi Spa’s Balinese massage routine is slightly different from the rest. It still uses the fingers to give pointed pressure to your deep tissues, but more flowy (compared the usual press-stop-press routine); I felt touches of Swedish massage, and the uses of elbows like in shiatsu.

My therapist applied the right amount of pressure. It was hard and deep enough that I felt like I was in a small village in north Bali getting massaged by a blind old lady. If there ever was a massage technique called contemporary Balinese massage, this might just be it.

the ingredients
Balinese boreh is a century-old recipe known to be able to prevent cold. It’s made of mostly clove, ginger and a lot of other spices and act like a scrub applied on your whole body. The potion has a potent warming effect, which is quite pleasant to sleep to. Afterwards, entireties of your muscles loosen up and you smell like clove.

the exceptional
Yhi Spa at Meliá Bali is also equipped with a spa garden at the back, very close to the beach. It’s admittedly dinky, but quite beautiful. There’s a dedicated area for a reflexology treatment overlooking the beach and the sea. I personally think this is a very good idea to set a reflexology treatment, especially when the weather is good, the sky is charming blue and the sea is in a good mood, enough to send you hypnotic rows of waves. That’s, then, another magical quality of the spa, when you can’t help but daydream and occasionally think, “Ouch…that painful spot must be my over-abused kidneys.”

Treatments starts at US$ 30; Yhi Spa
(Meliá Bali, Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 510, www.meliabali.com)