Riding on the Crest of a Wave

It's been niggling for a few years now, the guilt has been growing. I hate to own up to it actually but, as a resident of Bali, until recently I had never tried surfing. Yes I know,.... body surfing & boogey boarding, we do it regularly, but the real stuff, no. So, when I was invited by Ripcurl to have a go, I got straight down the beach.

Ripcurl, Asia's leading surf school, organized an hours' private lesson for my 6 year old son and I. I wondered what we could possibly do in just an hour but got the kit and sunscreen on, hurried across the hot black sand and into listening mode to give it a go.

Ian – our 'cool dude' instructor - was fantastic at getting the message across and was accompanied by Rusty, who gave superb demonstrations. They had us jumping on the board, lying on the board and surfing on the board all on the beach before we tried the real thing. I have to say I felt pretty 'uncool' standing surfing on the beach in my crash helmet in full view of the professionals. (We all have to start somewhere I guess.)

After quite a lot of practice and the use of cool 'surfie' words we were let loose to try & get on the board in a laying position and ride the waves. We did it – without too many mouthfuls of salty water. The next step was to try and get up on the board. Never in a month of Sundays did I imagine that either of us would do it, on this our very first lesson. So, imagine my surprise when......

Yes, honestly! Both of us rode many a wave. I put it all down to Ian's fantastic tuition (and perhaps a bit of pure Bali luck too). The 'surf buzz' reminded me of the 'ski buzz' that, living in Bali, I haven't felt for a while – we had a really fun morning and got the thrill.
Ripcurl's Surf School is located on Blue Ocean Beach (selected because of the safety of the location, with a full sand only beach break it is supposedly the safest spot on the island for learning to surf) and they offer expert and safe tuition with many, very professional instructors. There are Beginner, Intermediate and Advanced group lessons available for half-days, whole-days or 3-day periods – for 12 years old and upwards. Private lessons such as ours are bookable by the hour – and our hour was actually an hour and a half with no extra charge, and these begin for children as young as four years old. For the more experienced there are Master's Lessons to take surfing to a higher level of mastering reef breaks, short boards, bottom turns and the cut back (don't ask me!..) Pro-Rider lessons get into reef breaks, floaters, re-entries and lots more! These classes are taken in other beautiful coastal areas, with bigger waves and 'more air'.

The Rip Curl School of Surf offers 16 different classes; the average client takes 3.5 classes.

From 1998 to 2005, Ripcurl have taught over 12,000 people to surf and in this time they have had four small incidents that required professional medical attention, all of which were immediately resolved at the Bali International Medical Center and all four clients returned to continue their surfing lessons. Say no more......definitely professional. So, no excuses, lessons are open to anyone (the oldest student was in her eighties) & they really can adapt to your schedule to suit your timings – depending on the tide and wave conditions. Ripcurl will also collect you from your hotel, so you don't even have to get yourself there.
The best surfboards are used and they are covered in a special protective rubber so as not to hurt you too much if they tap you.
All Instructors and Assistants are professionally trained in CPR, first aid, surf rescue and have regular training. They are also accredited by the Indonesian Surf School Association and trained to the highest standards in surf education.

All courses include hotel transfers, surfboard (handy!), helmet, rash vest, imported sunscreen, drinking water and an end of lesson certificate. All activities are covered by a $100,000 insurance policy. Ripcurl can also do surf guiding (sounds impressive as it is) create corporate packages and equipment rental. Ripcurl, their motto as far as I can see, - 'anything to help!'
Just to point out, if you have never surfed before there are a few things you should take along with you to your lesson.
1. A sense of humour – you will get a lot of ocean up your nose and then loose it for the rest of the day, you will probably get bashed by the board and you will feel just a tiny bit silly in your crash hat.
2. A pair of orangutan arms – because whoever designed surfboards to be carried the way they are, had incredibly long arms.

Go find the waves, do the thing & enjoy.
Do you know what Ripcurl's promise is? 'If you aren't standing on the board by the end of your first lesson, the next one's free'. How can you beat that?

For further information on lesson times and prices please call Ripcurl School of Surf on 735858 or visit their website ripcurlschoolofsurf

Purnama from the Romantic to The Spiritual

Purnama or full moon is an auspicious day to Balinese people. Many important Hindu rituals fall upon or are held at this time. The day is believed to bring happiness both socially and spiritually. The significance of purnama, however has changed over recent times.

In the past, say four or five decades ago, purnama had more meaning for romantic things, while its ritual dimension was rather insignificant. Between the1950s and 1970s, purnama was the day that teenagers were always very much looking forward to. On the purnama day, they enjoyed the brightness of the night by going to the beach. Teenagers in Denpasar, for example, went to Sanur beach to enjoy the beauty of the full moon. Many people also swam at the beach that night. They believed that by swimming at the beach on purnama day, they were not just cleaning their bodies but also their minds.

Because the transport facilities before the 1970s was not as modern as nowadays, Denpasar inhabitants went to Sanur by bicycle. Limited street lighting on the road was not an obstacle to their travelling by bicycle because the moon poured its shining light on the road. One after another bicycle usually went to Sanur on the night of purnama. The light of the moon not only eased the ride but also accentuated the romance of their journey.

On the purnama night, Sanur beach was packed with people, usually until midnight, when most of the visitors went home. People avoided hanging around at the beach until late at night because of the magical images of the area. Besides going to Sanur at purnama, teenagers also liked to go to the cinema. New releases of films were often shown for the first time at purnama so as to be able to attract a bigger audience. Sanur beach and the cinema were among the few places available for recreation at that time.

Going to Sanur for teenagers also let them see the 'splendour' of the first and only ten storeyed building in Bali; The Grand Bali Beach Hotel located on Sanur beach. This hotel was the most attractive object for local people to see during holidays such as Galungan and Kuningan or New Year.

Nowadays, purnama in Sanur is still beautiful, but people do not need to wait to come to the beach on that day. People can come to Sanur every day if they like. Purnama and Sanur no longer have a strong connection. The tall building on Sanur beach, which used to be considered so splendid, has now lost its attractiveness. Also, the number of places for recreation has increased; now it is mainly malls and cafes where teenagers like to hang around at the week end.

The romantic dimension of the full moon has become less celebrated by teenagers nowadays. Changes have taken place, marked by more spiritual activities, held on purnama day. On the night of purnama, young people around the town of Denpasar prefer to put on their Balinese attire and go to pray at the temple Jagatnatha, located in the front of Puputan Badung Park. The praying itself does not take long. Some people like to stay up late in the temple or doing what they called makemit, praying and establishing peace of mind but others like to hang around the temple and the Puputan Badung Park until late night. During the purnama night, the park is packed with people, a scene that did not exist three decades or so ago. Those who come to Jagatnatha temple are mostly young people, including school students. On purnama day, students of high schools in Denpasar go to school after hours to pray at their school temple. Some stay there until late at night, while others go to Jagatnatha temple to pray again.
The spiritual dimension of purnama has been very strong recently. Every purnama, many primary and secondary school students in Denpasar, and in other regions throughout Bali, come to school without uniform but wearing traditional Balinese attire. They pray at school together before the classes start. Non-Balinese kids may wear Balinese attire if they wish, although they do not have to.

Using Balinese traditional costume (pakaian adat) is an important development in Balinese society; especially among the young generation. They are proud of their traditions and this is in contrast to what happened in the 1950s and 1960s. Young people were then ashamed to wear Balinese attire. If they went to temple some distance away by bicycle, they tended to wear trousers on the way and kept their Balinese clothes in a bag. They only put them on when they arrived in the temple. After praying, they wrapped up the pakaian adat again and put them back in the bag. However, nowadays, things have changed dramatically and the changes are supported by the promotion of purnama as the day for Hindu students to wear Balinese costume.

Schools have started to use the so-called Bali or Hindu greeting 'Om Swastiastu'. The use of this greeting is aimed at strengthening Balinese identity. The construction of regional identity has been very strong but is becoming more important in Indonesia since the promotion of the regional autonomic system of government since 2000. Each region has changed greatly in order to promote as well as enrich their local culture. In Bali, tradition and culture as well as Hinduism have become the main elements of identity construction. Purnama in Bali has shown more ritual dimension, though it has not lost its romantic atmosphere at all.

Visitors who happen to have purnama during their holiday in Bali may be lucky enough to see how the Balinese carry on their traditions in the modern era.

On the day of the full moon, Balinese people usually do tirta yatra or pilgrimage to their family or main Hindu temples such as Besakih, Tanah Lot, and Uluwatu. Some often go to pray to Alas Purwo Temple and Mandara Giri near Semeru Mountain in East Java. They come in groups, travelling by bus, like groups of civil servants, hotel or garment factory workers, and the cost paid or subsidized by the company. Tirta yatra has become a fashion and is usually done on purnama day.

Although we are focusing upon the full moon in this article, it should be mentioned that 'Tilem', the dark moon, is also an auspicious day in the Balinese calendar.

Finding Mola

Nusa Penida is a diver’s playground with numerous sites worthy of exploring and home to the rare Mola-Mola and Manta Rays. Dive in and discover a life under the sea, and the most unusual sea creature ever.

“When I dive, I feel alive. Everything else is just a surface interval”, says Dr. Phil Nuytten, a renowned Canadian ocean explorer.

A statement I can easily relate to. I am blessed, as I live in the highlands of Bali. For a scuba fanatic, it’s a dream come true. I often feel the need to descend from the hills to answer the call of the ocean and lubricate my lungs.

Divers from all over the world congregate in Bali between July and October to catch a hopeful glimpse of the migratory Ocean Sunfish, also known as Mola-Mola (from the Latin word for millstone, aptly used to describe their roundish figure). These magnificent creatures currently hold the record for the heaviest bony fish on earth; a 3.1-metre long specimen weighed in at 2,235 kg (Carwadine, 1995).

Mola-Mola spend much of their time at cold depth feeding on their favourite diet: jellyfish. Their coarse sandpapery skin is covered with up to 40 different genera of parasites. Occasionally, they emerge from the deep to rejuvenate at cleaning stations where schools of banner fish await, eager to offer parasite riddance services. And one of these cleaning stations is conveniently located at Bali’s own Nusa Penida, a mere 40-minute boat ride from Sanur Beach.

Nusa Penida is the largest of three islands (Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan) lying off the southeast coast of Bali. This 17-kilometre long island is home to stunning corals and diverse marine life. It is a diver’s playground with numerous dive sites worthy of exploring: Crystal Bay, Blue Corner, Bat Cave, SD, and Toyapakeh, to name a few.

It is a gorgeous mid-July day at Crystal Bay – a signature dive site in Nusa Penida famed for the most consistent Mola sightings. My dependable dive buddy, I Made Wirawan, the founder of Bali Marine Sports dive centre, who comes equipped with his natural ability to detect Mola-Mola from a great distance, accompanies me. Mola sightings are dependent on various dive conditions: weather, time of day and month, and dive traffic.

Made signals for me to follow him. We descend further underwater and come to a halt at a sloping reef.

And there it is: a 3-metre wide Mola parking motionlessly. Six overzealous banner fish are feasting on its parasite-infested spotty silver skin. The Mola seems to be at peace with this complimentary grooming ritual. It’s a pretty bizarre-looking fish with a massive head, rounded tail, and long sweeping fins atop and below.

I maneuver myself carefully so as not to disrupt its spa session. According to several reports, the Mola also habitually rests flat at the surface of the ocean to sunbathe, hence the common name “ocean sunfish”.

In mid-October last year I had the pleasure of meeting Dr. Tierney Thys, a passionate Californian marine biologist, a National Geographic Emerging Explorer and a filmmaker, during her workshop to the students of Green School, Bali’s innovative answer to alternative education. She was on a mission to place satellite tags on the Mola and collecting tissue samples for genetic and toxin analysis in the hope of uncovering the secrets of these remarkable creatures.

Dubbed as “the next generation’s champion of ocean exploration” by National Geographic, Dr. Thys and her team have dedicated almost a decade traveling the world’s oceans and studying the mysterious ways of the Mola. Despite their massive size, the Mola remains a creature of mystery; we still don’t know much about their reproductive cycle, population, migratory route, and hunting habits.

“It’s got these big eyes and a goofy look that draws you in to the ocean environment and sparks more questions”, claimed Dr. Thys. “We want to get people thinking about the ocean and not thinking that land is separate from the ocean but that it’s a big continuum. We can’t have healthy land with an unhealthy ocean.”

It is easy to have a certain expectation of entitlement when you’ve come a long way to see the Mola, but keep in mind that the well being of the marine life comes first. Go with a reputable dive company with safety-minded dive instructors, be prepared for strong unpredictable currents, and respect the sanctuary of the Mola.

One can’t help but feel humbled in the presence of such evolutionary prehistoric creatures. Human civilisation is a mere drop in the ocean. Scuba divers and other ocean explorers have been given the privilege of witnessing some of Nature’s most incredible masterpieces. We are stewards of the ocean and with this come a great responsibility to raise awareness and protect Earth’s underwater inhabitants.

To learn more about Dr. Thys and her research or to adopt a Mola-Mola, visit oceansunfish

Bali Marine Sports
T: 0361 270 386, 289 308, 288 776
E: bali4mola@yahoo.com bmsdivebali

Dancing on Fine Lines

This month in Bali will see two excellent art exhibitions involving paintings of strictly vertical and horizontal lines, idiosyncratic jewellery pieces, and fine photography of senior Balinese master dancers.

It’s not that we don’t like realism or that paintings of beautiful rice paddies done in meticulous details are naff. It’s just that we like new things. Living in Bali, you can’t help feeling overwhelmed by the amount of arts available. And after a lot of visits to various galleries, you can’t help but notice the ubiquity of certain types of arts. Balinese-style statues are normally good, intricately done and often flawless. But when you see hundreds of the same Garuda Wisnu Kencana statues displayed next to each other and then again at the art shop next door, you stop appreciating their beauty.

Paintings here are going through quite similar treatment too. After looking at too many of them, you wonder if they are actually done by one person and then photocopied around. Standouts are few, which is quite ironic for an island known for its artistic realm. It’s perhaps because a city like Jakarta, for instance, has better and stricter survival control. It’s much harder there to call yourself an artist, let alone getting your works displayed. So, the works you see out are of a higher quality. Whereas probably on this island, everyone is an artist or reckons they should be one. Or maybe because Bali is simply selling the purity of Bali, which has obviously worked for decades, so why change now?

Indeed, a more thorough research should be done to find out why this phenomenon takes place and put an end to the on going debate. But in the mean time, fresh variety is always welcomed. And this month, it’s in the form of paintings of strictly vertical and horizontal lines, idiosyncratic jewellery pieces, and fine photography of senior Balinese master dancers.

Bandung-born Adrian Palar is, to borrow the words of the exhibition curator, Bruce Carpenter, “a mature master not seeking glory or fame but a pure expression of personal joy”. He admits to be fascinated by the horizontal and vertical lines and inevitably his works have strongly been influenced by post-modern Cubism. Imagine vertical and horizontal lines meeting each other, making squares and rectangles, fill the divided spaces with colours and you get highly contemplative paintings.

A designer by day, Adrian always manages to find time to paint (this is on top of running his wife’s jewellery line, Runa Jewellery). And for this exhibition, he has invited his wife, Runi (one of Indonesia’s top draw jewellery designers), to put together pieces and complement his thought-provoking canvasses.

The woman who started to venture with silverwork in the early ‘70s was a pioneer because then, such artistry was the exclusive domain of men. However, her radicalism and hard work paid off. By the ‘80s, she was an acknowledged designer who has a distinctively beautiful style in working with silver and gemstones.

The husband and wife’s joint exhibition has been given the title “Timeless Change” and will be held at Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Jimbaran from November 5 – December 7. The curator, Bruce, describes the exhibition as “a map of both their individual and shared aesthetics, set against the subtle background of their interpersonal relationship”. Their styles are quite contrasting indeed, but the connection is exactly in the juxtaposition.

In 2001, the couple, years after relocating to Ubud, set up a small, but charming museum. Runa Museum documents Runi’s career throughout the years by storing her masterpieces, but this month, this museum will also be adorned by excellent works of photography of the senior masters of Balinese dancers.

Before “Dancing With Time”, Doddy Obenk has had at least four photography exhibitions since his first one entitled “Movement” in Jakarta, which was also about dance photography. Specialising in portraits, Doddy’s works shown in this exhibition have managed to capture the mysterious mystical energy exudes by each dancers when they are performing, packaged in both black and white and stylised coloured prints. Throughout the exhibition, there will also be dance performances by the Balinese dance masters shown in the photos. And done in an intimate space, you are given the chance to see these masters at work, in close up, which according to Doddy, is how Balinese dances should be enjoyed.

Timeless Change
November 5 – December 7,
Ganesha Gallery,
Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay,
T: 0361 701 010

Dancing With Time
November 6 – December 7,
Runa Museum Bali,
Banjar Abian Semal, Lodtunduh, Ubud,
T: 0361 981 0710

Family Matters at Ku De Ta

Ku Dé Ta is known for its hip events and happenin’ DJs, but it’s also a venue where you can bring the whole family. Moreover, Chef Phil Davenport and bartender extraordinaire Jasper Manifold explain about Ku De Ta’s most-wanted foods and beverages, all wrapped in a beautiful beach setting. Perfection.

The picture looks a little something like this: Ku Dé Ta’s iconic red diamond umbrellas are vibrant against an impossibly azure sky, a light breeze swirling wisps of white clouds on the horizon. Sprawling daybeds beckon you to stretch out on this sunny morning, sip a smoothie and get mesmerised by the rolling Seminyak surf as the occasional horse trots past and colourful kites tethered to the volcanic sands flap and swoon. There’s just one hindrance to a few hours spent browsing the papers or chatting with friends over brunch: your children. Unless it’s Sunday.

Welcome to Ku Dé Ta’s Family Dayze, where a team of cheerful staff are on hand to occupy the younger members of your family, so you might actually have a chance to drink your latte while it’s still hot or indeed eat your ricotta hotcakes without having to share with Ms. Sticky Fingers.

On this early Sunday morning, a jumping castle complete with slide has been inflated to one side of Ku Dé Ta’s pool, while a canopy across the other shades an array of activities to keep creative hands busy. A gaggle of kids are filling tiny bottles with lemon, lilac, aqua and vermillion sand, bubs are lining up for their KDT helium balloons and all manner of crafty items are unfurling on the tables. A mini-golf ramp is being set up and other activities you might find include face-painting and temporary tattoos, while on occasion, such as World Clean Up Day, the activities on offer will be related – think arts and crafts focused on recycling.

Later, a barbecue will be fired up, with hot dogs, burgers, chicken wings and ice cream served to the kids – this in addition to Ku Dé Ta’s children’s menu, which chef Phil Davenport says was freshened up three or four months ago after an internet survey on what kids like to eat.

“We’re a venue that caters to every walk of life. We’ve got seven or eight different menus, about 160 things you can choose from - it’s a lot of food,” says Davenport, who has just returned from Singapore having seen Ku Dé Ta snag the number 9 spot for the 2009-2010 Miele Guide to Asian restaurants.

As your kids are distracted, it means you can browse the brunch menu. All the standards are there, along with standout items including huevos rancheros with fried egg, red cumin beans, avocado, sour cream and rancheros sauce and the poached eggs on toasted sourdough with a mushroom ragout, ricotta and lemon butter dressing.

Phil says he and head chef Ben Cross sometimes adapt old classics to bring them up to date. “We don’t try and change the base recipe too much, we might just change the way it looks. We want to be able to present some old classics but done a little bit differently.” It seems a shame not to ask for Phil’s suggestions just in case you linger on through a Sunday and into dinner.His picks? Start with the Scandinavian-style scampi skargan. “It’s like a mayonnaise mix, some fine fish roe, some chives, some shallots, lots of lemon juice and diced scampi through it. It’s really tasty. It’s served on little hash browns...with some creme fraiche and some dill and some trout roe.”

As a main, among Phil’s picks is the sweet Alaskan black cod marinated in miso for two days, served with a really light pickled daikon salad – “a beautiful dish.” Or the roasted lamb rack, another classic that’s become a Ku Dé Ta signature.
Dessert? “The macadamia nut tart has been another classic that we’ve kept on and it’s one of my favourites, but I’m liking this mango parfait, and the double chocolate tart is pretty insane if you’re a chocolate head.”

But back to Family Dayze. “The concept began six years ago,” explains Donni One, Ku Dé Ta’s marketing and creative director.

“As you know Ku Dé Ta has a wide range of clientele and families are a very big part of that. We decided to create an actual day for them, which would be Sundays, where families could come in and have their brunch or lunch and allow their kids to have some activities too for the day,” he says.

Now the Sundays are augmented on special occasions such as Christmas and Easter with bigger family days, with even more activities and entertainment. These days can attract 100 to 200 kids, while busy Sundays draw in around 80 to 100 children.

Asked about whether the children might annoy other patrons, Donni emphasizes that there’s room for everyone.

“But generally it’s really early Sunday morning - up until 1 or 2 o’clock. I mean, some people stick around but we’re not talking like they’re running around spraying people with water guns!”

Overall numbers at Ku Dé Ta have held well over the past few years, despite the shocks of the 2002 and 2005 bombings on the island.

Donni says, “We’ve been very lucky, very fortunate. We’ve also got very good security here. We try to pride ourselves on having that. We outsource to people who come in here and train our guys and make sure that they always have the correct and up-to-date information on what’s going on as far as intel is going,” he says. For large events, “We can get up to 100 personnel from the air force to police to banjars, and you don’t see them necessarily but they’re there. And we need to do that so people feel safe to come here.”

Ku Dé Ta’s main market, Donni says, is very diverse. “We’ve got everyone from CEOs to fashion designers to just families and surfers. Especially having a beach club, it’s very, very casual during the day and as you move into the night it’s a little more up market in a sense. And it’s good to see that when people come here, they do want to dress up a little more.”

Jasper Manifold meanwhile is the man to talk to if you need a cocktail as Sunday morning blends into Sunday afternoon and the kids are still happily making picture frames under the marquee.

Ku Dé Ta’s cocktail forte, Jasper suggests, are their fresh twists on old favourites. “We’ve got cocktails here that at first glance people may - cringe isn’t the word – but find rather surprising at a venue that is offering five-star food and cocktails,” Jasper says.

“The Pina Colada may not be looked upon very well, for instance, but the original recipe was a very well-balanced cocktail,” Jasper enthuses.

“What we’ve done here is we’ve made maybe not the original recipe but we’ve definitely made a beautiful, refreshing cocktail - and then what we’ve done is put roasted coconut foam on the top. And that is an amazing drink. It’s not too creamy, not too coconutty.”

Along the same lines he says is their Long Island Iced Tea. “A lot of the time, I’d say it’s probably drunk by people who drink the drink because it’s the one with all the alcohol and it gets you drunk very fast. Whereas here, what we do is we make a long island iced tea with all those spirits but the total amount is no more or less than a standard drink - but then on top there’ll be a Coca Cola and lemonade foam.”

Then there’s the Cuba Libra, originally a rum and coke with a squeeze of lime. Ku Dé Ta’s take is a large measure of rum, served with a frozen ball of coke with a flower-cut lime – the ball nestles into the rum and slowly melts. “There will be dark, beautiful rum that is very slowly softened out by the Coke and the lime.”

“The cocktail trend into next high season looks set to revolve around molecular mixology,” Jasper predicts. Expect to see more items such as the Bacon Manhattan. “This is going to sound pretty weird but it tastes really good!” Jasper promises. The bourbon is infused with bacon fat, served in a martini glass garnished with a piece of bacon. Now that might just go well with your eggs on a perfect Seminyak Sunday.

Ku Dé Ta, Jl. Laksmana 9, Seminyak,
T: 0361 736 969

Overlooking the sea in Tanjung Benoa, Thalasso Bali, at the Grand Mirage Resort, is ideally located to harness the seawater, of which is believed to have beneficial effects upon the skin.

the look
Walking into the lobby feels like entering an upmarket airport lounge: empty and expansive, it feels rather characterless. Fortunately though, this is not an indication of the spa itself, which is full of personality with the warren-like complex of individually designed rooms, replete with natural elements. Going through the changing rooms, the connection with the ocean is immediately apparent as you emerge onto a sandy walkway decorated with seashells.
The treatment rooms all have a different style and character, although they are unified by the connection with nature. The Pressotherapy room, for example, has walls made up of wooden blocks and a pebbled floor, while the Affusion Shower Massage takes place in a cave! The real rock was transported especially and creates a unique atmosphere for the treatment. Ah the wonders of artificial nature.

the touch
The fifty-minute Affusion Shower Massage begins with an aromatic serum face massage to stimulate circulation and relax the mind. The therapist uses circular strokes and applies pressure to key points on the forehead, chin, cheeks and nose, before continuing the massage on the front of the body. After turning over for the back massage, the jets of cool-to-warm seawater above are switched on, and as they spray over the body the massage continues with legs, arms, back and shoulders. It’s a new sensation, this water-plus-oil-plus-massage, but it’s not unpleasant and after a few minutes, the relaxation really starts to set in.

This treatment is designed to replenish vital minerals (such as copper, iron, manganese, cobalt and iodine) and improve circulation, muscle tone and the immune system, although such results are fairly intangible. What is apparent, however, is that the skin feels soft and hydrated and the mind calm.

the ingredients
The facial serum used during the Affusion Shower Massage treatment contains a special blend of vitamins and collagen, chosen for their moisturising and nutrient replenishing properties. Massage oils are based on soy or sunflower, to which selected pure essential oils are added. For the other treatments on the menu, products change regularly as more effective or suitable ones become available, apart from of course the treatments which use specific brands (such as the Phytomer facials).

the exceptional
Perhaps the most appealing feature of Thalasso Bali is the balance between well being and medicinal values in their treatments. The elements found in seawater and seaweed are believed to cure many ailments, from rheumatism to the physiological effects of stress, while massage relaxes and pampers. The large aqua medic pool can accommodate up to 18 people at a time, so it’s an ideal place for groups to take simultaneous treatments.

The range of spa packages must be one of the best in Bali, with seven, ten, twelve and fourteen day packages available. Each day includes a different treatment, so guests will move around a number of different treatment rooms and experience the unique aspects of each.

the unusual
While the quality of the treatments is superb, it might be nice to have more time to settle into the place and get comfortable before stripping off for the treatment itself.

Prices start from IDR 250,000 to 3,000,000.

Thalasso Bali, Grand Mirage Resort,
Jl Pratama 74, Tanjung Benoa,
T: 0361 773883, thalassobali

This Month Activity....

Make a splash for the kids

Bali-based humanitarian swimmer Monte Monfore and Australian swim instructor Glenn Schapel teamed up for their second annual Kid’s Day at the Pool for physically and mentally challenged children. This year’s funfest was hosted by Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali located in Kuta.

15 children from Yayasan Pembinaan Anak Cacat (YPAC) enjoyed swimming, splashing, fun and games at the beachside pool.

“I jumped at the chance when Glenn proposed this last year,” said Californian swimmer Monte. “I can’t tell you how fun this is! It’s extremely gratifying to see the children’s smiling and happy faces. We’re very appreciative of Holiday Inn for hosting this year’s event. I want to thank the GM Stephane and Activities Director Mukti for all their support.”

Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali, Jalan Wana Segara 33, Tuban,
T: 0361 755 577, monteswimmer

Ayana Resort and Spa Bali launches a refurbished Padi Restaurant

Padi, previously the resort’s Thai restaurant, has been completely renovated and expanded, and its dinner menu relaunched with an ‘Asian Spice’ concept offering Indian, Indonesian and Thai cuisine.

The international buffet breakfast served at Padi every day has also been relaunched to offer a gourmet dining experience at 6 different food stations. The Ballroom’s refurbishment includes the latest conferencing facilities, bringing it up-to-date with the needs of today’s meeting planners.

Ayana Resort and Spa Bali,
Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera,
T: 0361 702 222, ayanaresort

Screen and heard

The Balinale 2009 International Film Festival proved to be yet another success. Throughout the 20th to 25th of October, 21 Cineplex Kuta Galeria was host to film screenings from all over the globe. Highlights of the event were the showings of films ‘Mary and Max’ and the infamous ‘Inglorious Basterds’, another silver screen gem by Tarantino starring Brad Pitt.

Seminars about film-making and the likes were also held to complement the event. balinale

Bali goes green

Bali Tourism Development Corporation (BTDC) presented the 13th edition of the Nusa Dua Fiesta 2009 during five consecutive days for art, culture, sports, music, exhibitions and pure fun. This annual event took place in Peninsula Nusa Dua Bali from the 17th to the 21st of October 2009. According to the President of BTDC, I Made Mandra, “The theme of the festival, ‘Green Tourism’, aims to always remind us of the importance of the environment’s conservation, which in result will bring positive impacts to Tourism in Bali.”
We couldn’t agree more.

By the C Bar at the Aston Bali reopened

The Resort has undertaken renovations at the former bar and has extended it into a chic yet casual Seafood Restaurant and Lounge Bar.

By the C Seafood Restaurant offers tasty light dishes at lunch time and succulent seafood in the evening.

By the C Bar offers even more delicious cocktails than before. Whether at sunset time, before or after dinner, come and sip one of the barman’s newest creations while listening to lounge music and the relaxing sound of the ocean.

Aston Bali Beach Resort & Spa,
Jalan Pratama 68X, Tanjung Benoa,
T: 0361 773 577, astonbali

November 7

The ever-popular frozen yoghurt shop called Sour Sally will be opening in Bali (finally!) to satisfy your fro-yo cravings. Be on the lookout for their beach debut. (Bali Galleria, 1st floor)

November 21

Edmondo Zanolini (Mondo) first came to Bali 20 years ago after a successful career in Italy as a theatre director and designer, and video artist. With references to Lewis Carroll’s famous tale of Alice, Mondo considers Southeast Asia as his ‘wonderland’ and his journey through the looking glass for the past 20 years has been a visually interesting one. Let’s follow him follow his rabbit down the hole to Biasa Art Space starting from Nov 21. Valentine Willie curates this exhibition, which will last until Dec 20.

Jalan Raya Seminyak 34, T: 0361 847 5766, biasaart

tuesday evening art films
Every Tuesday at 7.00 pm

Gaya Fusion Art Space will host an art film screening, free of charge and open to the public. Watch classic silver screen masterpieces such as Once Upon a Time in the West (Nov 3), Life is Beautiful (Nov 10), Raging Bull (Nov 17) and cult favourite Juno (Nov 24).

Jalan Raya Sayan, Ubud,
T: 0361 979 252, www.gayafusion.com

November 27

Irwan Holmes, a Juilliard and UCLA alumnus, first came to Indonesia 40 years ago and instantly fell in love with the archipelago, specifically its unique gemstones. His recent jewellery exhibition (titled Heritage of Indonesia) was successful in raising aesthetic awareness about Indonesia’s many types of semi-precious stones. Most importantly, Irwan Holmes uses fossilized coral, only found in Indonesia, to create most of his pieces. This exhibition will start on Nov 27 at Prapen Jewelry Artifacts and it will be officiated by Suteja Neka.

Jalan Jagaraga 66, Gianyar, T: 0819 9975 5897

Thanksgiving
November 26

Although not a big holiday in Indonesia, but many venues celebrate this day of gratitude (be sure to check out the food talk section in your trusty HelloBali to read about Thanksgiving food events). In America, the holiday is usually celebrated with get-togethers and, the crème de la crème, a succulent turkey dish as a centrepiece.

The holiday commemorates a harvest festival celebrated by the Pilgrims in 1621. This year, Thanksgiving Day falls on the 26th of November in the United States, whereas in Canada this fete took place in October.

Wonderful of Denpasar

It may not be a camera-lens friendly place, but don’t be fooled, Bali’s capital city has its perks; you just have to know where to look. From a museum of Bali’s history, to hidden culinary and coffee treasures, and an eclectic shopping haven, we go deep city diving to discover Denpasar.

1 four-faced beauty at puputan square
The famous Patung Catur Mukha (which literally translates into ‘the Statue with Four Faces’) is located right smack dab in the middle of Puputan Square and is an image of the God of the Four Directions.

Puputan is a ritual akin to the Japanese hara-kiri (what better way to die than with honour and in your own hands, eh?) and this ritual took place in 1906 when the Dutch seized control of the land and the great King of Badung ordered a mass suicide as their art of war. The fallen heroes of this honourable affair are standing in stone at the Puputan Square.

Try not to visualise this gruesome yet historic event and consider Puputan Square as the key point of orientation of the whole city, meaning that if you ever get lost wandering the streets of Denpasar, this is the spot you should get back to as it is located on the city’s main street, and everyone in Denpasar will know the way to get back here.

There is also an occasional Gong Kebyar Parade that takes place in this square, so be on the lookout for that. (Jalan Gajah Mada)

2 the historical story of bali
You can probably tell from the melting pot of sensations when you first step foot on the island that Bali’s history is an intricate, interesting and tumultuous one.

To experience a rush of time travel and witness the development of Balinese culture and how it became what it is now, visit the Bali Museum in Denpasar.
The museum was built in 1931 by architect P.J. Moojen and is located near to the former Denpasar palace that was burnt down to the ground by Dutch invaders during the turmoil that took place in 1906.

This museum showcases art and historical artefacts that weave the tale of the Island of the Gods, and the building is divided into four sections which displays a different array of Balinese relics: the Tabanan section stores masks and musical instruments used in theatrical performances, Karangasem displays sculptures and paintings, the Buleleng area showcases textiles and last but definitely not least, the Timur section holds a collection of archaeological finds.
(Jalan Mayor Wisnu, open 8.00 am until 3.00 pm daily, closed on Saturdays)

3 shopping paradise
The word ‘Denpasar’ literally means ‘by the market’ so it’s no surprise that one of the most pulsing markets in Bali resides in the island’s capital. Pasar Badung is thrift-shopping heaven, filled with quirks and perks in a 5-storey establishment, open 24 hours, for the avid market-delver.

Even though Pasar Badung is the main pasar in the area, the whole of Denpasar is basically a place of trade (this is, again, where the name of the city originated), so you’ll find heaps of markets and shops, big and small, obvious and obscure, vibrant and listless, lining the streets of Denpasar.

To purchase textiles and Balinese batik by the meter, head over to the Kampung Arab on Jalan Sulawesi, and also go to Jalan Kedondong to find unique shops selling nothing else but unique things (we randomly stumbled upon a custom traditional drum-maker on this street, so try your luck in this area).
If you have no time for a market spree, Pasar Badung itself is enough to quench your thirst for transaction, guaranteed, or check out the adjacent pasar called Pasar Kumbasari which also sells an array of curios.
(Pasar Badung, Jalan Gajah Mada)

4 artistic endeavours
The Bali Werdhi Budaya Art Center spans over 5 hectares of land and was designed by Ida Bagus Tugur, a prominent Balinese architect who also designed the National Art Gallery in Jakarta.

This vast arts centre is the largest cultural centre to have been built until now, and it is just that: a huge centre of cultural expression, starting from performances to paintings to sculptures and anything that can be qualified as cultural art. The main attraction is an open-air amphitheatre, the Ardha Chandra, which occasionally hosts theatrical performances and dances, complete with towering temple gates, impressively breathtaking full-moon effects and a 600-people seating capacity.

In this complex, the Dewi Ratih Building, used during The Bali Art Festival, displays architectural aesthetics and various exhibitions, mostly photographic. There is also an indoor theatre called the Ksirarnawa which seats 800 people. We could go on and on about this arts complex, but with art, you’ll have to see it to believe it.
(Jalan Nusa Indah, visiting hours 8am to 5pm, Tuesday to Sunday)

5 a steaming cup o’ Joe
Coffee culture has lost its sentimental value since the simultaneous appearance of all these generic coffee shop franchises (you know which we’re talking about), but fear not, coffee lovers! In the heart of Denpasar lies an authentic coffee shop, established by the Tjahjadi family since 1935, which was originally called Bian Ek. They changed their name to BHINEKA JAYA KOPI BALI and their coffee has been exported to international markets due to their high-quality and unique flavours. They’ve even coined the term ‘The Coffee Legend’ in Bali for their taste.

Now, the originally quaint coffee shop has grown into a well-known bean-brew parlour, and provides brews from Toraja, Mandailing, Java, Kenya, Italy and Columbia.
(Jalan Gajah Mada 80, T: 0361 720 589)

6 the enchanting palace
Bali is divided into areas, and each area harbours its own King. Puri Satria is the palace of the King of Denpasar and it’s open for public exhibition. This palace was re-built in 1930 and every 210 days, an anniversary celebration is held at the royal grounds. At Puri Satria, there is an open-air pendopo that was used as a meeting spot for all the Kings of Bali back in its heyday.

If you want to actually sleep like royalty, you can go to Pemecutan Palace, built in the 17th century and managed by the last King of Denpasar, Ida Cokorda Pemecutan, where guests can stay and pretend to be royalty, even if it’s only for one night.
(Puri Satria, Jalan Veteran; Pemecutan Palace, Jalan Thamrin 2)

7 temple of divine deities
Bali and temples seem to be two inseparable things, because spirituality is a major influence in Balinese culture. Located in Denpasar, the Jagatnatha Temple is a sight that’ll enlighten your senses.

Deriving its name from the Sanskrit word ‘jagat’, meaning world, this temple is devoted to Sanghyang Widhi Wasa, exclaimed to be the supreme at divine gatherings. The shrine of Pura Jagatnatha is perched on a turtle, signifying one of the divine forms of the Hindu god Vishnu, and an air of grandiose can be felt in the atmosphere surrounding this temple.

Each month, on every full moon and new moon, a celebration is held on temple grounds. Make sure to visit during the festivities and you’ll definitely come home with a spiritual, if not memorable, experience.
(Jalan Mayor Wisnu)